The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4, and the rule of 10. We also discuss why we both lift, why climbers should train differently than weight lifters, programming ideas, common mistakes, and more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-3Nuggets:(00:00:00) – The NUG(00:01:21) – Why Jesse lifts weights(00:04:43) – Why I lift weights(00:06:19) – The safety of weightlifting(00:07:03) – Low-hanging fruit(00:08:06) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Learn the basics (the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, and a basic understanding of anatomy)(00:12:36) – How I use RPE, & a big mistake I made early on in my lifting(00:13:16) – Other forms of RPE(00:16:11) – A study on reps in reserve (RIR) lifting(00:16:50) – A basic understanding of anatomy (ExRx.net)(00:18:20) – Steven’s Tip #1: Train like an athlete in another sport, not like a weight lifter(00:18:54) – The Big 4 (push, pull, hinge, squat), & an example program(00:21:56) – The 10 Rep Rule(00:25:13) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Learn how to modify your training(00:35:47) – How to progress primary & accessory exercises(00:37:26) – Why you should start with a compound exercise(00:38:25) – Steven’s Tip #2: It’s ok to focus on the bare essentials(00:40:43) – Way too much pulling training(00:41:30) – Step #1 for new lifters(00:44:07) – Drew Ruana bench press example(00:45:42) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Load is more important to pay attention to than form(00:47:30) – Steven’s Tip #3: Get specific strategically, and only after you build a base(00:49:42) – Jesse’s Tip #4: You may need to reduce your climbing volume to adapt to your weight training(00:55:52) – Bonus Tip: Learn about hardstyle training(00:58:27) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Doing either too much or too little(01:01:14) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Going ham(01:01:14) – Bonus Pitfall: Not taking advantage of weight lifting when you’re young(01:07:12) – You don’t have to go to level ten(01:08:17) – Overall training load(01:09:09) – A little bit is still beneficial(01:11:04) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Not going heavy enough(01:15:56) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too specific, too special, or too fancy(01:18:42) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not eating enough protein(01:22:32) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not learning how to use autoregulation in some fashion(01:26:02) – Bonus Pitfall: Forcing it(01:27:57) – Nurturing your practice with weight training(01:29:26) – Avoid boot camp training(01:31:46) – Wrap up

Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the power of climbing with a girl gang, hidden costs of making a film, trash can showers, pad-less sends, imposter syndrome, advice for aspiring filmmakers, and more.Watch Girls Gone Hueco:girlsgonehueco.vhx.tvKAYA:kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.Shoutout to KAYA for supporting Girls Gone Hueco!Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/girls-gone-huecoNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:38) – Midori’s background(00:09:08) – Long’s background(00:13:26) – What Long learned making Girls Gone Hueco(00:15:41) – What surprised Midori about the experience(00:17:32) – Why Midori wanted to make the film(00:20:30) – Forming the girl gang(00:24:36) – How Long got involved with this film(00:28:36) – Making the film(00:37:48) – What they wish they had known(00:40:10) – Hidden costs of making a film(00:48:08) – Carving out the time to make a film(00:50:57) – Trash can shower(00:55:39) – Amanda’s pad-less send(01:00:36) – Will there be a Girls Gone Hueco 2?(01:01:35) – Takeaways(01:06:11) – Where to watch the film(01:06:45) – Advice for aspiring filmmakers(01:10:03) – Imposter syndrome(01:15:15) – Don’t be afraid to try(01:16:45) – V11 in legit(01:18:03) – Shoutout to Julie Ellison(01:20:45) – Congratulations

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard design.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelle-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:59) – The 200 lb grip goal(00:07:31) – How Yves makes a training program, the Gap Analysis, & benchmarking(00:11:28) – Limiting factors(00:12:15) – The Sport Audit(00:15:13) – Joint angles for edge lifting(00:19:19) – Specializing(00:20:36) – The challenge for climbers with building finger strength(00:21:18) – More on specialization(00:22:51) – Forearm hypertrophy exercises(00:24:58) – Lifting vs. hanging vs. overcoming isometrics(00:30:33) – Grip positions for different goals(00:36:07) – 20mm vs. 25mm edge training(00:38:29) – How to build a 3-month grip training program(00:45:56) – Yves’ edge lifting protocols(00:53:35) – When to progress weight(00:54:50) – Wellness questionnaire & readiness test(00:56:20) – When to change your training schedule(00:58:23) – When to push out of your comfort zone (i.e. The Shock Week)(01:00:08) – Hypertrophy & long-term finger strength gains(01:04:27) – Lazy athletes get strong(01:05:29) – Repeaters(01:07:44) – Changing your schedule or program(01:10:48) – My takeaways so far(01:12:02) – How to combine board sessions with finger training(01:20:04) – Training for a 23-move boulder(01:22:44) – Pacing & effeciency(01:25:37) – Summary of my example training plan(01:35:12) – More about repeaters(01:40:46) – How to maintain finger strength in season(01:48:05) – Yves’ recent grip comp & climbing goals(01:55:22) – Yves’ gap analysis for comps(01:57:15) – Planning & process goals(01:59:05) – Yves’ job as a special effects artist(02:01:06) – Yves’ YouTube channel(02:01:54) – Climbers getting into grip sports(02:02:47) – Outdoor rock goals & his last Hueco trip(02:05:45) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser for Patrons

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and sharing climbs, mastering benchmark climbs, how to iterate on your climbs for incremental progress, hacks for building a home wall on a budget, and more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Check out the Tension Board 2:tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-2Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:20) – Best spray walls(00:05:46) – Terrain drives technique(00:08:00) – Choosing a wall angle(00:10:07) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Home wall setup considerations (Use a mix of good and bad holds, a mix of textures, complement your local area, etc.)(00:13:05) – Steven’s Tip #1: Build yourself a repertoire of quality climbs, and try to master them(00:17:45) – Bonus Tip: Cluster holds to build skills and learn movement(00:19:12) – Bonus Tip: Iterate on your climbs for incremental progression(00:24:52) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Supercharge your sessions with route setting(00:27:59) – Steven’s Tip #2: Work on climbs that are hard for different reasons(00:28:57) – Bonus Tip: Set chaotically (i.e. Set boulders without trying the moves, and try not to tweak them)(00:33:17) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Do not underestimate the value of a short session on a home wall(00:35:52) – Steven’s Tip #3: Circuits!(00:40:13) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Make wood holds to save money(00:43:27) – Steven’s Tip #4: Set foot moves(00:49:23) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Always trying new stuff and having crap sessions(00:52:08) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Not having the right mix of holds for the skill level(00:54:33) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Not keeping track of your sessions(00:55:51) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not stopping when you power down (i.e. climbing too much and getting injured)(00:57:40) – Sandbagging on spray walls, and trusting your eyes(00:59:42) – Steven’s Pitfall # 3: Only having big blobby footholds(01:02:03) – Steven’s Pitfall #4: Not making your home wall cool (plus tips for building a cool home wall on a budget)(01:07:32) – Quantum leaps

Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain a healthy spine, how emotions and stress affect our pain, psychedelic experiences, the pain, tension, and fear triangle, ways to empty your stress bucket, and much more.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Uncut VideosBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!KAYA:kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/amy-frugeNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:26) – Pregnancy & maternity leave(00:04:05) – Overview(00:05:31) – Amy’s martial arts background(00:10:21) – Confidence(00:13:29) – Point sparring & boxing(00:18:14) – Pivoting to climbing(00:22:24) – How Amy’s athletic background informs her work with climbers(00:24:25) – Starting her Physical Therapy business during covid(00:27:13) – Radiculopathy(00:28:59) – Elbow & finger pain from the spine(00:39:53) – A pulley injury that turned out to be from the spine(00:47:00) – Be careful how you snuggle(00:49:06) – How to maintain a healthy spine(00:52:44) – Shoulder pain & directional preference(00:59:37) – Go-to tells of spinal issues(01:01:15) – Finding a provider(01:02:39) – How emotions & stress affect our pain(01:09:08) – The bucket analogy(01:10:23) – Pain is protective(01:11:37) – Stress & mindset(01:18:27) – Science vs. woowoo, & left vs. right(01:23:09) – Psychedelic-assisted therapy(01:27:48) – My psychedelic experiences(01:29:26) – Another client success story(01:36:58) – The pain, tension, & fear triangle(01:40:54) – Ways to empty your stress bucket(01:47:17) – Our many different buckets, & introverts vs. extroverts(01:51:20) – Be more like a dog(01:54:42) – Wrap up

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshopper Board, etc. This episode contains nuggets for folks who are just getting started with board climbing, as well as seasoned board lords.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard design.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app.Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-1Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:14) – Our board climbing experience(00:05:42) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Treat it like training (pay attention to weekly volume and progress it slowly)(00:07:09) – Bonus Tip: Keep board sessions short when training power(00:10:21) – Steven’s Tip #1: Have a clear plan for your session (and develop 2-3 go-to session formats that work well for you)(00:11:39) – Example board session formats(00:13:45) – Wall crawls (aka crimp crawls) & Jesse’s 3x3 session(00:15:32) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Be creative and use the whole board as a tool (use extra holds/feet to learn hard moves)(00:22:44) – Steven’s Tip #2: Don’t be afraid to break the rules(00:25:08) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Jesse shares his methodology for teaching V4/5 clients how to use the Moonboard(00:29:32) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do what you can do consistently and build on it slowly over time(00:31:38) – Bonus Tip: Work hard moves backwards, and jump from the ground to practice latching(00:32:53) – Bonus Tip: Find a TB2 to climb on (and why I chose the TB2)(00:34:01) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Using your board as your only form of climbing(00:37:59) – More about wall crawls (aka crimp crawls)(00:39:03) – More love for the TB2(00:44:32) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Taking board grades too seriously(00:47:49) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Using board grades to downgrade outdoor climbs(00:49:04) – Benchmark rants(00:50:39) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too much too fast(00:53:13) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much of the same thing(00:54:44) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much off-the-wall finger training in conjunction with board climbing(00:56:56) – One thing I like to do on the hangboard if I’m board training a lot(00:57:48) – You need a reason to train things(00:59:17) – Using wall crawls to maintain finger strength(01:00:38) – Wrap up

We're back with Fundamentals Season 2! Jesse Firestone joins me again for six new episodes covering some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. In season 2, we'll dive deeper into several important aspects of training, injury recovery, and how to break plateaus. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon.Listen to Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals

Allison Vest joins me to talk about the Paris Olympics! We talked about our biggest surprises from the men’s and women’s combined semifinals, our thoughts on the route setting, what defines an “electric” boulder, why speed was so great to watch, heartbreaking results, men’s and women’s combined finals, who we are most excited to see bring their Olympic fitness to the rocks, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing KAYA:kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/olympic-reactionsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:35) – How we watched the Olympics(00:08:57) – Overall reaction(00:10:58) – Power, Electric, Slab, & Coordination(00:13:59) – Men’s final boulder 1(00:16:39) – Surprises from the men’s semifinal(00:19:25) – Adam Ondra & Jakob Schubert(00:23:11) – The unknown format for LA(00:26:10) – Olympic rules & limitations(00:27:55) – Niche Olympic sports & pride for climbing(00:30:28) – Speed recap(00:35:40) – Heartbreak(00:43:25) – Colin Duffy(00:45:58) – Jakob’s point deduction in bouldering(00:47:12) – Men’s final boulder 3(00:50:31) – Toby Roberts & Sorato Anraku(00:53:03) – What Toby’s gold means for the GB Team(00:55:41) – Colin on men’s final boulder 4(00:58:45) – Surprises from the women’s semifinal(01:04:07) – The OQS series & the effects of qualifying at different times(01:07:16) – Brooke Raboutou(01:11:11) – Janja Garnbret(01:19:36) – Climbers are wonderful(01:28:24) – Women’s top 3(01:29:24) – Will climbing grow after the Olympics?(01:32:39) – Which Olympians we are excited to see climb outdoors(01:41:14) – The skills of outdoor climbing(01:51:03) – Camera angles & World Cup challenges(01:53:29) – Will Allison compete again?(01:54:39) – Wrap up

Natalia Grossman is a World Champion and 3x overall World Cup winner and will compete for Team USA at the Paris Olympics. We talked about spending time in Mexico as a kid, her breakout year in 2021, dealing with public criticism, working on her mindset, how to win without being the strongest person competing, hard outdoor sends and goals, her happiest moments, her top training advice, and much more.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 232: Natalia Grossman — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing PhysiVantage:physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Green Chef:greenchef.com/nuggetclassUse code "nuggetclass" for 50% off your first box + 50 FREE Credits with ClassPass.We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/natalia-grossmanNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:46) – Natalia’s parents(00:03:08) – Spending summers in Mexico & speaking Spanish(00:08:10) – Discovering climbing(00:11:25) – Her breakout year in 2021 & dealing with public criticism(00:16:44) – Facing pressure in 2022(00:19:58) – The hardest year(00:22:36) – Health challenges & learning to listen to her body(00:26:42) – Learning & hobbies(00:28:46) – Studying psychology(00:31:04) – Finding balance(00:37:10) – “It’s not always the strongest person who wins.”(00:38:15) – What does it take to win?(00:39:51) – Setters’ influence on comps(00:42:08) – Natalia’s leadup to the Olympics(00:45:12) – Smile & Fight(00:50:45) – Don’t be ashamed to ask for help(00:53:48) – Hard outdoor sends(00:58:49) – Projecting & outdoor goals(01:01:54) – Freezing(01:06:17) – Why Natalia doesn’t like rituals(01:08:11) – Competition underwear(01:09:26) – Rapid fire questions(01:11:42) – Gymnastics culture(01:13:24) – More rapid-fire questions(01:18:22) – Her happiest moment(01:21:41) – Deep convos, training advice, & following psych(01:25:22) – Wrap up & EXTRA for Patrons

Colin Duffy is a 2x Olympian, 3x World Cup winner, and V16 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about puzzles, studying applied math, early competitions, joining Team ABC, getting 70th in his first open event, learning how to lose gracefully, qualifying and competing in Tokyo, how the Olympic scoring has changed, his strategy for Paris, future outdoor rock climbing goals, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 231: Colin Duffy — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out the Tension Board 2!tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/colin-duffyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:25) – Puzzles & applied math(00:06:32) – Mom & dad(00:07:29) – Early comps & Team ABC(00:11:22) – Tokyo Olympics(00:17:15) – Strategy & scoring(00:20:00) – The format for Paris(00:25:00) – The World Championships in Switzerland(00:28:05) – Youth comps(00:30:41) – Clutch mentality(00:33:28) – Keeping sport & life separate(00:35:53) – Gap semester & training in Europe(00:41:24) – 360 Paddle Dyno(00:43:52) – Coordination(00:49:13) – Lead training(00:52:22) – Comp grades(00:57:12) – Comp boulders that haunt him(01:01:02) – Learning how to lose(01:04:58) – His first open comp(01:08:06) – Putting on muscle(01:16:18) – Letting off steam(01:18:31) – The Grand Hustle V13(01:20:24) – Bookkeeping V16(01:22:22) – Outdoor goals(01:30:47) – Rapid fire questions(01:47:45) – Wrap up

Emma Hunt is the US speed climbing record holder and will compete in the Paris Olympics. We talked about her intro to speed climbing, how strong you have to be for speed climbing, speed training, how speed shoes compare to other climbing shoes, her mental game and strategy in comps, prejudice against speed in the climbing world, whether the speed route will ever change, why speed is cool, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 230: Emma Hunt — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/emma-huntNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:50) – Emma’s intro to climbing & speed(00:04:08) – “I just wanna go fast.”(00:06:48) – Keeping the fire lit(00:09:28) – Beta changes(00:12:08) – The Start, Dyno, and Top(00:13:10) – Speed nerds(00:16:19) – A rock climber first(00:18:10) – Post-Olympic plans(00:20:41) – How strong are speed climbers?(00:23:25) – How speed climbers train(00:28:42) – Training sections of the speed route(00:30:14) – Off-the-wall training(00:31:56) – Her coaches(00:35:06) – Speed shoes(00:44:59) – Other sports(00:46:27) – Rock climbing as a kid(00:48:27) – What makes Emma so good at speed(00:49:58) – Pre-race rituals(00:51:36) – Speed mental game(00:56:37) – Olympic vs. World Cup format(00:59:06) – Seeds & sides(01:00:39) – Strategy(01:05:01) – Riding waves(01:11:28) – More about the Olympic format(01:13:18) – Speed prejudice & Toyko combined format(01:27:51) – Future Bouldering & Lead comps(01:29:20) – Speed climbing in the mainstream(01:35:22) – We celebrate gold(01:40:39) – Barriers to speed(01:42:30) – Emma’s fastest time & goals(01:44:49) – Will the speed route ever change?(01:51:56) – 50-year-old goals(01:53:45) – Rapid fire questions(02:07:51) – Speed is cool

Shauna Coxsey is the most successful competition climber in the UK and the first British woman to climb V12, V13, and V14. We talked about becoming a mom, sitting in and sharing our emotions, human nature and the joy of climbing, inspiration vs. aspiration, motivation vs. commitment, competing in Tokyo, retiring from comps, sending Hazel Grace V14 in terrible conditions, pushing for her V15 goal as a mom, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 229: Shauna Coxsey — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out the Tension Board 2!tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/shauna-coxseyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:30) – Frankie(00:03:58) – Becoming a mom(00:12:48) – Sit in and share emotions(00:15:09) – Parenting(00:20:15) – Support network(00:22:06) – Shauna’s upbringing(00:23:10) – Catherine Destivelle(00:26:16) – The joy of climbing(00:31:16) – Human nature(00:34:22) – Her first big competition(00:37:34) – Being raised by her sister(00:40:49) – Protecting passion in kids(00:47:54) – Frankie’s Nany, Arona(00:52:10) – As honest as her vulnerability allows(00:55:13) – Inspiration vs. aspiration(00:58:34) – Motivation vs. commitment(01:01:38) – Her proudest achievement(01:04:12) – Hazel Grace 8B+/V14(01:05:42) – Coming back after pregnancy(01:12:13) – Wanting to look and feel strong again(01:17:52) – Hips, butt, & YouTube tips(01:24:02) – Commentating(01:28:17) – Tokyo(01:31:31) – 50 best 7s(01:34:32) – Pushing for goals as a mom(01:41:10) – The magic of being here(01:43:19) – Any 8C/V15 goals?(01:47:38) – Wrap up

Josh Hadley is a leading flexibility coach in climbing and the face behind the Lattice YouTube Channel. I’ve struggled with stretching routines over the years, and this episode completely changed my flexibility training. In this episode, Josh shares his top 4 stretches for inflexible climbers and introduces key concepts like chasing horizontal, weighted stretching, tempo, contract and relax, reducing friction, best times to stretch, and more. We also covered his recent CARCing experiment and other topics. Enjoy!Flex Master Discount:Use code NUGGET20 to get 20% off the Flex Master Bundle latticetraining.com/product/flex-master-bundle-stretching-toolsWatch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 228: Josh Hadley — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out the Tension Board 2!tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-hadleyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:59) – CARCing(00:10:38) – Unstructured training(00:12:13) – How Josh became the flexibility guy(00:17:47) – Bringing critical force testing to Lattice(00:25:25) – Flexibility assessments(00:32:14) – Abduction(00:32:44) – Buy in for flexibility training(00:41:47) – How often do you need to train flexibility(00:44:19) – The #1 flexibility exercise for boulderers (pancake)(00:47:57) – Weighted & PNF stretching(00:53:36) – Josh’s flexibility progress(00:59:40) – Morphology limitations(01:03:11) – Standing Pancake(01:08:56) – Chasing horizontal(01:13:43) – Tasking & motivation(01:16:40) – Pancake stance width(01:18:11) – Progressing the weight & tempo stretching(01:24:51) – Do you have to warm up for flexibility training?(01:27:40) – Pancake protocol(01:30:06) – How Josh builds a flexibility session(01:34:11) – Mobility vs. flexibility(01:39:58) – Calve stretching(01:46:01) – 4 stretches for inflexible climbers(01:52:24) – Reducing friction(01:55:00) – Stretching doesn’t have to look like climbing(01:56:57) – PNF or contract-relax stretching(02:00:57) – Best times to stretch(02:04:41) – Breathing(02:07:14) – When to switch to maintenance(02:11:40) – What running does to your flexibility(02:12:54) – Josh’s climbing & BJJ(02:19:17) – The impact of flexibility on Josh’s climbing(02:22:07) – Josh’s final advice(02:25:32) – YouTube experimenting(02:27:49) – Wrap up

How are granite climbing holds made? Are there benefits to training on rock? In this episode, I am joined by Mads Bulow Duus and Pawel Rogowski from Nature Climbing. We go behind the scenes on the origin story of their brand, the craftsmanship behind their beautiful products, how to build a successful brand, training and skin conditioning on granite hangboards, the future of climbing holds, and much more!Use Code ‘NUGGET’ for 20% Off ANY Nature Climbing Products! ▶︎ https://natureclimbing.com/Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nature-climbingNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:08) – Banter(00:05:02) – My first experience with Nature holds(00:08:13) – Glass blowing & Nature’s origin story(00:10:56) – Early holds(00:12:28) – Mads’ climbing background(00:16:28) – Pawel’s marketing background(00:25:32) – How Mads & Pawel connected(00:27:15) – Mads’ dream(00:28:32) – Pawel’s career pivot(00:37:06) – Fixing the basics(00:43:51) – Scaling a handcrafted business(00:52:23) – Sustainability & respect(00:55:51) – Buying holds(00:58:33) – Who Nature is for(01:06:53) – Developing new products(01:09:27) – The Nature Circuit(01:10:48) – World Cup routes(01:12:43) – Their vision for Nature(01:17:56) – Their dream lifestyles(01:23:00) – Proudest of(01:28:42) – Elevator pitch(01:29:54) – Training on granite(01:33:39) – Discount code

Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) is a world-class climber and coach who specializes in technique and mental game. This episode is a technique masterclass. We talk about the four stages of technique, how to practice any new skill, how to send faster, his goal to climb 9a before 60, and Justen coaches me on how to float on the wall using his drop-drive-stop method.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 226: Justen Sjong — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justen-sjongNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:25) – Justen’s climbing background(00:07:27) – Fear and anxiety(00:11:30) – Some of Justen’s hardest routes(00:14:55) – Defining “technique”(00:18:05) – Defining “effective” & “efficient”(00:21:14) – Reflection & confidence(00:26:22) – Our three batteries(00:27:24) – Four Stages of Technique: Balance, Thought, Movement, & Rate(00:43:06) – Diving into a specific technique(00:50:48) – Drop, Drive, Stop(01:02:00) – How to practice Drop, Drive, Stop(01:11:44) – Structuring practice(01:14:28) – Pro Tip for Drop, Drive, Stop(01:16:48) – Alex Puccio’s posture(01:19:17) – Getting into the moment(01:21:00) – Three questions(01:23:45) – Shifting from thinking to feeling(01:30:36) – How to practice ANY technique(01:35:47) – Sending things faster(01:44:57) – The ragged edge & perfect repeats(01:50:43) – Board climbers(01:54:06) – Watching & noticing(01:57:19) – Retiring after ‘Magic Mushroom’(02:01:13) – Justen’s big goal(02:03:29) – What he is working on in his climbing(02:07:47) – Closing questions & nuggets(02:31:17) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

In this episode, I crack open a beer with Tony Bell and David Bress, the two founders of Revival Climbing Coalition. The two of them installed my dream home wall in 2.5 hours and I was blown away by the craftsmanship and elegance of the design. We talked about their backgrounds, how they bootstrapped a climbing wall business, what sets their products apart, the biggest surprises they faced, sustainability challenges, future products and innovations, and more! Revival’s Adjustable Climbing Walls:revivalclimbing.com/adjustable-climbing-wallRevival’s Landing Systems:revivalclimbing.com/custom-matsrevivalclimbing.com/standard-matsShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/revival-climbing-coalitionNuggets:00:00:00 – Intro00:01:45 – Breakfast banter00:04:06 – David’s background00:09:06 – Mount Moran00:13:09 – Tony’s background00:16:24 – Getting into the climbing wall industry00:21:09 – The birth of Revival Climbing Coalition00:25:00 – What sets Revival apart00:33:01 – The cost of the wall00:36:45 – The board00:39:10 – Turkeys00:40:25 – Bootstrapping and outsourcing00:45:12 – Biggest surprises00:47:37 – What sets their board apart00:52:49 – Engineered lumber00:56:38 – Sustainability01:00:36 – Ease of installation01:02:38 – Gym partners and shipping01:04:40 – The future of Revival01:08:45 – More about landing systems01:09:50 – What’s next for Revival01:13:31 – Wrap up

Jana Švecová is a professional rock climber from the Czech Republic who has emerged as one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her upbringing and her early success in competitions, her pivot to outdoor bouldering, her inspiration for choosing ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16 as a project, making the first ascent of ‘Nova’ 8C/V15, using her finger injury as an opportunity, current training, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 224: Jana Švecová — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jana-svecovaNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:44) – Jana’s upbringing(00:07:18) – Quitting her job to climb full time(00:08:38) – What inspires her about ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16(00:12:39) – Climbing has it all(00:18:08) – A natural talent(00:22:20) – Discovering outdoor bouldering(00:25:57) – Childhood best friends(00:30:04) – Sharing successes(00:33:04) – ‘Nova’ 8C/V15(00:47:56) – The frustrations of projecting(00:50:46) – The next steps for ‘Terranova’(00:54:02) – Using her finger injury as an opportunity(00:58:22) – Working with her coach(01:03:23) – Improving her shoulder strength(01:08:09) – How her training has changed(01:11:58) – Building a climbing wall in a second apartment(01:15:18) – Building my own home wall(01:17:55) – Training for ‘Terranova’(01:30:02) – Motivation and side projects(01:35:18) – Self-belief(01:37:46) – Coordination and muscle memory(01:40:37) – Harry Potter museum(01:43:21) – Hand tattoos(01:44:39) – Favorite post-climbing food(01:46:15) – Ultimate achievement(01:48:51) – Best decision(01:53:17) – Bug snacks(01:56:00) – Happiest moment(01:58:58) – Silver linings(02:03:11) – Proudest of(02:06:47) – Favorite rock type(02:07:22) – Go-to climbing shoes(02:11:27) – Wrap up

Aidan Roberts returns to the podcast! Aidan is at the cutting edge of bouldering and is one of the most genuine people I’ve had the pleasure of talking to. We talk about professional climbing and today’s media landscape, and he brings us up to speed on the last year and a half of his climbing and shares the full stories of ‘Spots of Time’ and ‘Arrival of the Birds’, two new boulders proposed 9A/V17.We recorded this a couple of days after my chat with him and Sam on their podcast. I was honored to join them and I loved the conversation. Check it out for some reflections amongst the three of us about our podcasting and climbing.Watch the Video Interview:EP 223: Aidan Roberts Returns — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/aidan-roberts-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:59) – Recooperation phase(00:08:18) – Powering through(00:10:24) – Course corrections(00:13:58) – Climbing as his work(00:21:45) – Enduring austerity(00:24:17) – His role as a pro climber(00:29:28) – Our relationships with climbing(00:35:54) – Navigating pro climbing(00:45:44) – Valuing integrity(00:49:11) – Climbing media & being impressionable(00:52:51) – Reflecting on experiences(01:04:23) – Aidan’s last year and a half(01:08:54) – The Midnight Project (Arrival of the Birds)(01:33:30) – Trying Burden last Fall(01:41:47) – Ticino with Shawn Raboutou(01:46:41) – Back to The Midnight Project(01:50:28) – The Helvellyn Project (Spots of Time)(02:03:39) – Training in the UK last winter(02:07:03) – Sending Spots of Time(02:08:18) – Sending Arrival of the Birds(02:30:31) – Glimpsing mastery(02:33:33) – Appreciating the places we climb(02:38:06) – Proposing grades(02:52:01) – Is Arrival of the Birds 9A+?(03:08:35) – Exhausted & reexamining eating(03:12:42) – His foot injury & next climbing steps(03:14:23) – Plans for an EXTRA(03:18:22) – An adventurous attitude(03:20:04) – Burden of Dreams(03:26:03) – Finnish bouldering(03:32:48) – Wrap up

Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) returns for our promised part 2! This was every bit as good as our first episode. In part 2 we focused on how to build bulletproof knees and hamstrings for heel hooks, how to prevent shoulder injuries, how to strengthen and mobilize your neck and back, some of the most common changes to climber’s bodies as we age, and more. Paul also shared helpful advice for folks who feel overwhelmed by the endless possibilities of injury prevention. We covered fingers, wrists, and elbows in EP 207.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 222: Paul Houghoughi Return — Uncut Video!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Fenix!fenix-store.comMy Go-To Headlamp: HL32R-TThe Cadillac of Headlamps: HM65R-T V2.0Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughi-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:10) – Life update from Steven(00:11:07) – OQS banter(00:13:34) – Recap of my first episode with Paul (EP 207)(00:18:48) – Wrist widgets(00:23:33) – TFCC pain & injury prevention(00:27:41) – Knee exercises for heel hooks(00:32:44) – Lifting straps for hamstring training(00:35:33) – Copenhagen planks with flexed hip(00:39:20) – Clarifying questions(00:43:50) – Protocols for hamstring work(00:48:52) – Nordic curls(00:51:52) – One-the-wall rehab for knee injuries(00:54:51) – Sumo deadlift(00:55:51) – How to train for tweaky heel hooks(00:58:11) – Recap of hamstring rehab(00:59:01) – How to strengthen your neck and back for carrying crash pads(01:08:11) – Stop firefighting(01:10:14) – How to release tight neck muscles(01:12:38) – Daily joint mobilization(01:15:15) – Multifidus injury & more neck rehab ideas(01:22:05) – Shoulder injuries(01:27:11) – How to build bulletproof shoulders(01:31:01) – Turkish Get-Ups and kettlebells(01:36:03) – Doing things for a specific reason(01:41:17) – Having a meaningful goal(01:43:01) – Good pain vs. bad pain(01:48:46) – Patterns in aging climbers(01:53:20) – Good climbers vs. Olympians(01:55:59) – Coach & clinician symbiosis(01:58:45) – The booty thrust(02:02:11) – Tips for aspiring Physios(02:06:52) – How Paul maintains an 8A level(02:11:01) – What’s next for Paul(02:13:02) – EXTRA teaser for Patrons

Keenan betrays his mustache by revealing its deepest secrets, and then talks about his experience with 'Insomniac' V16, his trips to Japan, what stood out to him about the Japanese climbing culture, favorite anime, home wall dreams, footwork tips, and his nearest misses while highballing and how they changed his feelings about future highballs.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! The full version is 57:20.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWatch the Video Interview:EXTRA: Keenan Takahashi — Uncut VideoNuggets:(00:00:00) – Mustache Q&A Part 1(00:07:38) – Sticky climber(00:09:00) – Finger strength(00:13:29) – Aesthetics(00:15:56) – Insomniac(00:17:42) – Japanese climbing culture(00:25:32) – Logistics of traveling to Japan(00:26:33) – Anime(00:27:07) – Realizing his potential(00:32:23) – Home wall dreams (00:35:20) – Ethan and Lucas(00:37:19) – Mustache Q&A Part 2(00:39:09) – Best climbing years(00:42:12) – Footwork tips(00:45:39) – Benchmark Berkeley(00:46:14) – Shoutout(00:46:26) – Fast food(00:47:20) – A Little Life and highballing(00:50:09) – Doomsday(00:54:37) – Future highballs

Keenan Takahashi is one of the top boulders in the world. We talked about the origin story of his clothing company ANTIGRAV, the importance of carving out space for creativity, establishing his latest V15 FA ‘The Gold Standard’, watching Sean Bailey send ‘Devilution’, unclimbed king lines in Bishop, shifting his focus to meaningful hard climbs, his stubbornness, why trying limit moves makes him a better climber, learning the macro from the micro, accessing try hard, why he started training, upcoming goals, and much more! I’ve wanted to talk to Keenan since the very beginning of the podcast, and this turned out to be one of my all-time favorite interviews.Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesCheck out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/keenan-takahashiNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:47) – Kalkoentjie(00:06:22) – Buried in admin(00:09:48) – What Keenan’s life looks like(00:15:25) – Taking space(00:18:08) – The origin story of ANTIGRAV(00:28:02) – Selling an emotion(00:32:47) – Making a climbing pant(00:34:12) – Creating value(00:37:56) – Exclusive brands(00:42:12) – The small drop model(00:47:48) – Committing(00:49:50) – Climbing better than ever(00:55:15) – The Finnish Line(01:00:13) – Jimmy Webb’s development in Tahoe(01:02:00) – Chasing dream lines(01:03:20) – Satisfaction(01:07:57) – 10 more things(01:10:23) – Devilution(01:15:51) – Unclimbed projects in Bishop(01:18:23) – The Gold Standard(01:43:47) – Stubbornness(01:46:20) – Learning from one limit move(01:49:33) – Learning the macro from the micro(01:51:52) – What he learned from Spectre(01:53:52) – Surrounding himself with stronger climbers(01:55:12) – V15 at 50, and working weaknesses(01:58:30) – Trying hard(02:08:11) – Passion and relinquishing obsession(02:10:22) – Cultivating fun(02:14:47) – Measuring progress(02:20:52) – The Dark Side(02:23:47) – Ireland plans(02:28:38) – Wrap up

Alannah Yip is a professional climber from Canada who competed at the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about getting diagnosed with alopecia and the emotional journey of losing her hair, taking back her power, preparing for the Olympic Qualifying Series, lessons from Tokyo, mantras for slab boulders, her involvement with IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders and RED-S, her eating disorder as a teenager, why she plans to retire from comps, rock climbing goals, and much more!Become a Patronpatreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 220: Alannah Yip — Uncut Video!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesThe Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alannah-yipNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:11) – Alopecia(00:07:31) – Identity crisis(00:11:33) – Deciding to shave her head(00:12:55) – Taking back her power(00:19:55) – Setting it on the back burner(00:25:33) – Training camps(00:30:23) – Alannah’s coaches(00:33:47) – Training for Paris vs. Tokyo(00:39:26) – Feelings about Tokyo(00:42:08) – Lessons from Tokyo(00:44:06) – Training with other women(00:46:52) – Working on slab(00:50:10) – The Olympic Qualifying Series(00:55:00) – Olympic vs. World Cup lead style(00:59:27) – Why she quit comps during college(01:02:10) – Making the jump to World Cups(01:04:35) – Reexamining her relationship with climbing as an adult(01:08:54) – Engineering & coaching(01:11:28) – Excited to retire from comps(01:18:24) – IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders & RED-S(01:30:05) – Self-reporting & BMI(01:35:39) – Alannah’s eating disorder as a teenager(01:41:53) – The turning point(01:43:50) – Dealing with hard moments(01:45:30) – Conflicted feelings about food(01:48:13) – Alannah’s PSAs(01:50:15) – My PSA(01:53:03) – Mutual appreciation(01:55:05) – What’s next(01:56:24) – Rapid fire Qs(02:01:21) – Occasionally on Instagram(02:04:49) – Wrap up

Fitz Cahall is the cofounder of Duct Tape Then Beer, and the creator of The Dirtbag Diaries and Climbing Gold with Alex Honnold. We talked about the early days of the internet, what podcasting was like in 2007, being on the fringe, storytelling, virtual reality, spending your time on the right things, the unglamorous parts of our work, results vs. success, his new book States of Adventure, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 219: Fitz Cahall — Uncut Video!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fitz-cahallNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:30) – A typical workday(00:06:32) – Early days of the internet(00:10:12) – Starting to climb(00:14:45) – Writing for outdoor magazines(00:19:48) – The fringe(00:22:42) – Creating the Dirtbag Diaries(00:33:40) – Storytelling(00:38:08) – Podcasting in 2007(00:50:47) – Early video podcasts(00:55:32) – Virtual reality(01:02:48) – Being pro but not fancy(01:05:45) – Choosing stories(01:13:19) – His new book(01:18:04) – A Lifeline Home(01:23:20) – States of Adventure(01:35:54) – My own plans for a book(01:42:23) – Taking authorship of your time(01:50:25) – Spending time on the right things(01:56:09) – The unglamorous parts(02:03:20) – Giving yourself space(02:12:45) – Uberism & mediocrity(02:17:24) – Results vs. success(02:20:20) – Climbing Gold & the Olympics(02:28:46) – Wrap up

Mat Wright returns to the podcast to talk about his send of ‘Rhapsody’! We talked about the emotional dip after a hard send, the power of letting things come to you, making your own luck, patience as a tactic, top-down projecting, feeding our internal climbing algorithms, his process and how it felt to send, his next project, learning how to take the pressure off, and much more! Get coaching from Mat!matwrightcoaching.comCheck out Kletterkalk UK!kletterkalk.co.ukMat's go-to chalk, and a great option for folks in the UK and Europe! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mat-wright-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:16) – Catch up and self-coaching(00:08:58) – The dip after a hard send(00:11:57) – Letting things come to you(00:15:28) – His approach to ‘Rhapsody’ E11(00:21:33) – Mindset and preparation(00:24:22) – Making your own luck(00:27:01) – Patience as a tactic(00:31:51) – Top-down projecting(00:36:15) – Feeding the climbing algorithm(00:39:57) – Self 1 and self 2(00:41:37) – The send(00:44:54) – The process(00:51:17) – The emotions after the send(00:54:57) – Mat’s next project(00:59:09) – Not taking it quite so seriously(01:03:08) – Taking the pressure off(01:11:00) – Taking time off(01:18:37) – Less vs. more(01:24:07) – Wrap up

Dr. David Spiegel is a Stanford psychiatrist and one of the world’s most respected experts in the field of hypnosis. We talked about how our minds can make our bodies feel better, how hypnosis has helped his clients, why hypnosis is a good fit for climbers, breathing exercises for relaxation or focus, his new Reveri App, and much more. Dr. Spiegel does a self-hypnosis session with Steven to relieve stress and anxiety and you can follow along!Check out Reveri:reverihealth.app.link/nuggetclimbing👆 Use my special link to get 2 free weeks! Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing 👆 7-Day Free Trial! Check out the Arc'teryx Climbing Academy:squamish.arcteryxacademy.cominstagram.com/arcteryxacademy👆 Sign up and follow them on Instagram for updates! Check out Crimpd:crimpd.com👆 Download the Crimpd app for free! Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.com👆 Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO! Check out PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)👆 Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/david-spiegel Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:46) – Dr. Spiegel’s background(00:08:51) – My experience with Reveri(00:10:45) – Trying out being different(00:14:47) – Compassion for your body(00:16:35) – The stage hypnosis hustle(00:18:58) – Hypnotizability(00:23:51) – Cognitive flexibility(00:25:36) – The long-term effects of self-hypnosis(00:30:21) – Hypnosis is gaining control(00:36:31) – Is hypnotizability learnable?(00:45:20) – Climbing styles and hypnotizability(00:46:48) – Hypnotizability Test(00:57:55) – Discussing my results(01:00:10) – Anxiety(01:01:48) – Novelty, memory, and visualization(01:07:30) – More about hypnotizability(01:13:52) – Hypnosis as a tool(01:17:03) – Relieve Stress Hypnosis Session(01:31:49) – Debrief of our session(01:34:25) – Explaining the ritual(01:38:45) – The Reveri App(01:42:15) – How climbers should use the app(01:47:14) – Breathing exercises(01:54:19) – Putting it all together(01:56:31) – Final thoughts

This is a full bonus episode for Patrons! Maddy and I catch up about our weekend sends, Maddy shares a few key nuggets from our main episode, and then gives us a 2-hour masterclass in endurance training! Listen to the end for three free endurance protocols from Lattice's new online course that you can use in your training.*Use the timestamps below if you want to skip to the masterclass.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! The full version is 2:54:13.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingNuggets:(00:00:00) – Our weekends(00:07:30) – Key takeaways from our main episode(00:40:45) – A masterclass in endurance training

Maddy Cope is a world-class rock climber and the head of education for Lattice Training. We talked about Maddy’s transition from dancing to climbing, living in a shack in the woods in Chamonix, and lessons from her personal reflections on climbing. We also talked about Lattice’s new online training course that Maddy was in charge of creating and gave a discount for listeners!Check out the Lattice Training Course!Ultimate Course + Assessment BundleUse code “NUGGET20” for 20% off!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesThe Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/maddy-copeNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:09) – Food poisoning in the van(00:09:03) – Home wall training(00:13:59) – Overview(00:15:49) – Dancing to climbing(00:20:35) – Warrington(00:27:31) – The Cham Shack(00:34:57) – Discomfort(00:36:19) – Comfort creep(00:48:28) – Pleasure pointing(00:54:08) – Being your biggest supporter(01:05:22) – The joy of missing out(01:11:40) – Not having a bucket list(01:18:12) – Quitting social media and sponsorship(01:22:20) – Half thereness(01:26:11) – British over-modesty(01:49:54) – Getting into training(01:55:30) – Maddy’s role with Lattice(01:57:46) – Lattice’s new training course(02:07:47) – Who should buy the course?(02:16:45) – Online vs. in-person coaching(02:25:21) – Wrap up and discount code(02:30:18) – Identifying blind spots(02:36:15) – EXTRA teaser for Patrons!

Nathan Williams is obsessed with ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ 9A/V17, and estimates he has spent 100+ days trying it. We talked about getting mentored by Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras and sending his first V10 within one year of climbing, why he took a year off, falling in love with ROTS, how to stay psyched after bad days, friction control, climbing with a purpose, gaining legendary finger strength in a few minutes per week, static feats of strength, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 215: Nathan Williams — Uncut Video!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out the Arc'teryx Climbing Academy!squamish.arcteryxacademy.cominstagram.com/arcteryxacademyCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nathan-williamsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:50) – Gaming(00:05:13) – Overview(00:06:52) – The luckiest intro to climbing(00:11:12) – His first V10(00:15:20) – Making the jump to V15/16(00:17:38) – ‘Sleepwalker’(00:19:53) – The birth of ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’(00:21:45) – Getting obsessed(00:25:31) – What makes a good session(00:28:02) – Staying psyched after bad days(00:30:51) – Friction control(00:34:46) – Bad tactics(00:39:15) – Feeling strong(00:41:17) – No regrets(00:45:27) – ROTS as a board climb(00:50:34) – Training for ROTS(00:56:33) – Nathan’s one-arm hang workout(01:01:51) – One-arm hangs vs. lifting from the ground(01:05:43) – More finger training(01:09:04) – Micros and finger anatomy(01:11:47) – Nathan’s climbing style(01:24:22) – Static projects(01:26:01) – Feats of strength(01:28:08) – Climbing inspiration(01:29:45) – Excuses and explanations(01:37:14) – Skin products(01:41:31) – Why he took a year off(01:44:34) – Not forcing it(01:47:38) – Working with a coach(01:51:22) – Life balance(01:54:47) – Climbing with a purpose(01:59:28) – Upcoming goals and plans(02:02:01) – More ROTS(02:11:33) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons

Neely Quinn returns to the podcast! We talked about how doing mindset work with Hazel Findlay changed her life, why she decided to become a life coach herself, simple tactics for working through negative emotions and banishing shame, why working on your mindset will make you climb harder, and much more! Neely also gives Steven a life coaching session and helps him find more contentment with his climbing.Book a Session With Neely:trainingbeta.comBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 214: Neely Quinn — Uncut Video!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoes We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinn-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:35) – Neely’s breakfast(00:02:48) – Jonathan Siegrist’s rest days(00:04:32) – Overview of our chat(00:05:47) – How working with Hazel Findlay changed her life(00:12:09) – The discomfort goal(00:14:56) – Not sending ‘Tombraider’ 5.13d, and learning how to enjoy climbing again(00:16:34) – Trying max hard, and feeling ready to fail(00:21:15) – Pursuing life coaching(00:22:28) – Self-talk(00:23:09) – The role of a life coach(00:24:35) – Mindset tools(00:28:40) – Email apnea(00:35:22) – Emotions, shame, and what to do(00:38:10) – Steven gets a life coaching session(01:00:07) – Gratitude, self-affirmation, and the list of 3s(01:06:39) – Becoming a life coach(01:08:37) – What Neely is still working on(01:15:29) – Gremlin work(01:26:45) – Getting out of depression(01:30:38) – Toil(01:31:56) – Piano, projecting, and self-hatred(01:34:07) – Self-esteem and inherent value(01:35:52) – Respect and envy(01:38:27) – Our homework(01:41:30) – A last bit of coaching for Steven(01:49:26) – Knowing when to pivot(01:51:02) – Wanting without attachment(01:53:20) – Where to find Neely(01:55:37) – What to look for in a mindset coach(01:57:01) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of Dreams’ in -13°C, the projecting bubble, the goal of struggling, dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’, facing frustration with optimism, using a book under his kneepad on the FA of ‘Soudain Seul’, dream V18 projects, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Uncut Video!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/simon-lorenziNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:15) – How to pronounce Simon(00:02:56) – Claude Lorenzi(00:05:37) – Early climbing(00:08:02) – Discovering his potential(00:10:12) – Focusing on the details(00:11:31) – Becoming a 9A/V17 generalist(00:15:06) – ‘Burden of Dreams’(00:21:27) – The projecting bubble(00:25:44) – Simon’s 9A+/V18 goal(00:28:11) – Precision vs. finger strength(00:29:17) – External pressure(00:33:52) – Trying ‘Burden’ in -13 C(00:36:09) – Optimism(00:42:48) – Dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’(00:45:07) – Training while projecting ‘Burden’(00:49:47) – Projecting tactics(00:51:25) – Lessons from his three 9A’s(00:54:25) – How ‘Soudain Seul’ got it’s name(00:59:11) – Kneebar + book tactics(01:02:40) – His biggest lesson from ‘Soudain Seul’(01:03:23) – The goal of struggling(01:04:51) – ‘Big Conviction’, and bonding with his dad(01:10:01) – Stress from his dad(01:15:14) – Sport climbing goals(01:17:31) – Future competition plans(01:21:44) – How comps and outdoor projects complement each other(01:26:10) – Training for comps vs. projects(01:27:46) – Simon’s dream 9A+ project(01:37:07) – Upcoming competitions(01:40:40) – Repeating his dad’s 8c/5.14b(01:42:18) – Support from his dad(01:45:44) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Carlos Mason is a filmmaker and the creator of SENDING, a new film featuring Ethan Pringle, Anna Hazelnutt, and Dan Beall. We talked about how a car commercial inspired this unique film, why he chose Bishop as the primary location, writing the poem that became the narrative for the film, the connections we form through climbing, how the in-between moments make up our experience, what it took to make the film, future film projects, and much more!Watch the Film:SENDING | MHWsending.filmBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 212: Carlos Mason — Uncut Video!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carlos-masonNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:49) – Carlos’ introduction to climbing(00:04:49) – Getting into filmmaking(00:06:09) – Bishop(00:11:34) – His vision for the film(00:14:59) – Cars(00:21:21) – Writing the narrative(00:28:31) – Friends(00:36:55) – Choosing the cast(00:47:28) – Choosing the climbs(00:52:16) – Ethan’s bat hang(00:55:25) – Dan and ‘The Process’(01:04:46) – Choosing the music(01:14:55) – Post-production(01:21:38) – Recording VO(01:24:57) – Behind-the-scenes content(01:29:05) – Where to watch the film(01:29:32) – What’s next for Carlos(01:31:54) – Thanks and sponsors(01:33:57) – How lucky we are to climb

Davis Ngo (dr.climb) is a climber, Doctor of Physical Therapy, and Instagram personality. We talked about his upbringing as a first-generation Vietnamese American, blowing up on Instagram, why Sean Bailey deserves to make a living from climbing, breaking his back while highballing, overcoming fear after his injury, his dream of creating a bouldering competition in Bishop CA, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Uncut Video!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/davis-ngoNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:40) – Photo collages(00:03:36) – Bishop(00:06:21) – My introduction to dr.climb(00:07:52) – Growing up(00:12:11) – Getting into climbing(00:14:01) – Becoming a Physical Therapist(00:16:47) – Graduating during covid(00:18:48) – Blowing up on Instagram(00:22:24) – 69k(00:23:51) – Playing the game(00:32:09) – Who deserves to get paid in climbing?(00:44:42) – The progression of climbing(00:49:11) – Davis’ career(00:51:49) – Overwhelmed(00:54:15) – Self-esteem and social media(01:03:04) – Doing what you love(01:06:15) – Inclusion and giving back(01:09:26) – ‘Haroun’ as his first V11(01:12:41) – A year of injuries(01:18:01) – What changed after his back injury(01:23:49) – Backing off sketchy topouts(01:26:34) – “I just f*cking love it.”(01:35:25) – Overcoming fear after his back injury(01:41:54) – Trying highballs again(01:46:13) – Internet break(01:47:34) – SAMI sponsorship(01:52:03) – Creating a bouldering competition in Bishop(01:58:49) – How to support Davis(02:01:47) – Name suggestions(02:02:55) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional climber and one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world. We talked about racing bikes growing up, discovering climbing, using humor in his YouTube videos, how having fun helps him send, why he loves projecting limit routes, chasing the impossible, trying ‘Silence’ 9c, sending ‘Excalibur’ 9b+, two drills for legendary endurance, supporting his girlfriend Sara through hard times with her health, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Uncut Video!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stefano-ghisolfiNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:28) – Young Stefano(00:08:18) – Humor and fun(00:12:09) – The Dawn of Climbing(00:14:20) – The whole process(00:17:41) – Trying ‘Silence’ 9c(00:20:52) – Chasing the impossible(00:23:33) – Learning new skills on ‘Silence’(00:25:53) – Comparing ‘Silence’ and ‘Excalibur’ 9b+(00:28:45) – Limiting factors on ‘Silence’(00:36:08) – Tips for building legendary endurance(00:44:49) – ‘Excalibur’ and ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A(00:55:35) – Trying ‘Excalibur’ with Adam Ondra and Will Bosi(01:02:14) – The sword earring(01:04:06) – How ‘Excalibur’ got its name(01:09:22) – Trying ‘Hubble’ 8c+/9a(01:11:41) – Engaging with climbing history(01:14:48) – Stefano’s climbing heroes(01:17:51) – ‘Demencia Senil’ 9a+(01:20:29) – Fortnite and Mario Kart strength(01:22:52) – Sara’s health challenges(01:29:29) – Supporting one another(01:33:28) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Graham Zimmerman is an award-winning alpinist, writer, filmmaker, and climate advocate. We talked about his harrowing ascent of Mt. Bradley in his early 20s, getting injured in New Zealand, how his relationship with risk has evolved, losing friends in the mountains, the mystery of passion, the 100-year-plan, falling in love with his wife Shannon, getting shut down on K2 by global warming, the climate crisis, the concept of imperfect advocacy, and his new book, A Fine Line: Searching for Balance Among Mountains.Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Uncut Video!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/graham-zimmermanNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:38) – Daddy style(00:03:59) – Mt. Bradley(00:12:23) – The recipe for success(00:14:32) – How I related to the book(00:19:03) – Graham’s injury in New Zealand(00:21:54) – The Burger King story(00:24:04) – Falling for mountains(00:30:24) – The mystery of passion(00:32:07) – Mark Allen(00:40:45) – What makes alpinism hard?(00:44:04) – The logistics of mountain ascents(00:48:11) – Building a relationship with places(00:52:09) – The 100-Year Plan(00:57:48) – Shannon(01:04:06) – Compromise and purpose(01:08:30) – Getting engaged(01:16:13) – Loss and risk(01:25:58) – K2 and climate(01:34:16) – Imperfect advocacy(01:43:15) – Voting(01:50:40) – Energy and water(01:51:39) – POW(01:52:29) – Don’t stop climbing(01:54:11) – Graham’s book and EXTRA teaser

Jesse Grupper is a 27-year-old American who will be competing at the 2024 Olympics. We talked about his nomad lifestyle, the idea of “training trips”, climbing as an art form, the concept of optimistic training, thinking of ourselves as bodies of water, how he turned around his bouldering after placing last in his first World Cup, balancing Olympic prep with his job, soft robotics, and more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Uncut Video!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-grupperNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:44) – Infusions for Ulcerative Colitis(00:06:40) – Jesse’s nomadic lifestyle(00:08:26) – Training trips(00:18:30) – Almost quitting competitions(00:23:05) – Getting bullied for climbing as a kid(00:27:45) – Climbing as an art form(00:30:12) – Asking yourself questions(00:38:05) – Optimistic Training(00:45:05) – Pessimism is lazy(00:47:54) – Frustration(00:50:58) – Support(00:53:16) – Each of us is a body of water(00:57:20) – Was Jesse a natural at climbing?(01:00:07) – Turning around his bouldering(01:04:44) – Strategy for the Olympics(01:07:47) – Training with circuits(01:13:40) – Balance(01:21:12) – Soft robotics(01:30:48) – “Take it easy, but take it.”(01:32:17) – What Jesse wishes we thought more about(01:35:20) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Will Bosi is back to talk about sending ‘Return of the Sleepwalker, his third V17/9A! We talked about surprising himself by sending the stand start in three sessions, why ROTS suited his style better than he expected, how he trained during the bad weather breaks, his process, how he felt on the send, how ROTS stacks up against his other hardest boulders, plans to try Megatron V17 and return to Terranova V16 and Excalibur 5.15c, what he plans to try next, and more!Will’s Original Episode:EP 166: Will Bosi

Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul’s top advice to not get injured, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 207: Paul Houghoughi — Uncut Video!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughiNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:28) – Topics covered(00:04:01) – Paul’s grandfather, and how Paul became a climbing Physio(00:08:08) – Plans for the Olympics(00:08:44) – Lumbrical injuries(00:16:21) – Stress shielding(00:18:24) – Rehabbing lumbrical injuries(00:24:56) – Preventing lumbrical injuries(00:26:25) – Grip gears, and Alex Megos(00:29:19) – How to introduce a new grip position(00:34:13) – Training with hypermobile fingers(00:39:05) – The link between hypermobility and proprioception(00:41:33) – Wrist strengthening exercises(00:48:35) – Synovitis and capsulitis(00:55:39) – Climbing with synovitis and capsulitis(00:59:25) – How to promote finger health and prevent finger injuries at any age(01:03:06) – Why stretching your fingers is important(01:06:31) – Blood work for stiff joints(01:07:35) – What is normal to expect as we age?(01:09:18) – Playing the long game(01:11:08) – Hiding the broccoli(01:12:53) – The danger of overloading yourself with exercises(01:17:27) – Tennis Elbow(01:23:32) – My experience with Golfers Elbow(01:25:57) – End-of-range contractions(01:27:45) – Preventing elbow injuries(01:29:31) – How to decipher types of elbow pain (tendons vs. nerves vs. joints)(01:33:55) – Elbow joint issues(01:35:14) – Good rehab comes down to specific diagnosis(01:36:14) – Paul’s top advice to not get injured(01:40:14) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiber-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:49) – Eating mangos in Fontainbleau(00:05:00) – Epiphanies from his Rocklands trip(00:09:15) – Capacity and the group psych(00:12:06) – Strategy and resting hard(00:15:22) – Sleep(00:16:58) – Partnering with Alex Johnson(00:20:45) – What is Paradigm Climbing?(00:23:11) – Solving coaching puzzles(00:25:22) – 9-week cycles(00:27:34) – Deloads(00:29:19) – The brain adapts faster than the body(00:31:12) – Looking back and ahead(00:36:46) – Stacking training programs(00:42:15) – “It’s not your last day”(00:45:31) – Having Martin Keller as a mentor(00:46:37) – The similarity between training and performing(00:48:13) – Supplemental training on trips(00:50:44) – Conditions in Font, and ‘Karma’ 8A+/V12(00:53:06) – ‘Getting psyched on The Big Island’ 8C/V15(00:57:59) – Blanancing trips with his marriage(01:00:15) – Building ‘The Big Island’ replica(01:11:34) – How much does the replica cost?(01:14:14) – Training on the replica(01:22:21) – How to train on your project(01:27:45) – How much progress did he make on the replica?(01:29:16) – Progress and time remaining on his trip(01:32:32) – How he is projecting the actual boulder, mobility, and sore ankles(01:35:45) – Will Charlie train this way on future projects?(01:38:40) – Will replicas unlock V18?(01:40:15) – Nalle’s FA of ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A/V17(01:42:20) – The Ideal Circuit(01:46:43) – Setting specific comp boulders for Adam Shahar(01:51:32) – How you win comps vs. not lose comps(01:54:42) – How to create your own Ideal Circuit(01:56:30) – Creating your own boulders(01:59:08) – Imposing demands(02:01:48) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Kai Lightner is back on to talk about his recent send of 'Life of Villains' 5.14d/9a at the Hurricave! We talked about the emotional rollercoaster of sending 'LOV', how it felt to send 9a in his current body, not rushing the process, his trip to Jamaica, bolting his first route, what's going on with Climbing 4 Change, and more!Donate to C4C:climbing4change.orgKai’s Original Episode:EP 55: Kai LightnerNuggets:(00:00:00) – Kai’s upcoming trip and project(00:03:41) – Self-preservation(00:05:11) – The emotional rollercoaster of ‘Life of Villains’ 5.14d/9a(00:07:57) – How it felt to send ‘LOV’ in his current body(00:13:40) – Not rushing the process(00:16:50) – Expanding his technical arsenal(00:18:15) – Bad weather, broken holds, and the send(00:23:07) – His trip to Jamaica(00:27:00) – Building a climbing gym in the National Training Center(00:28:42) – Bolting his first route(00:33:31) – The food(00:35:34) – What’s going on with C4C(00:37:49) – Paying it forward(00:41:35) – How to support C4C(00:45:47) – Testifying in Washington to get climbing gyms recognized as sports facilities(00:54:02) – Bouldering with Drew Ruana, and negative temperatures

Adrian Vanoni is an up-and-coming finger crack wizard who has been on fire for the last few years. We talked about him breaking into 5.14, freeing El Cap ground up and then in a day, training for the famous ‘Cobra Crack’ using a campus board, doing the first free ascent of a 5.14 finger crack in the alpine, lucid dreaming about beta, going after hard routes that will force you to grow as a climber, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adrian-vanoniNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:04) – Mustaches, haircuts, and wired headphones(00:05:16) – Our conversation about trying to climb 5.14(00:07:42) – Geeking out about ‘Badman’ 5.14a(00:08:40) – Collecting unfinished business, and sticking with it on projects(00:11:04) – Little Si, and a new crag in WA(00:13:30) – Adrian’s lifestyle(00:16:04) – The glamorous life of an amateur climber(00:20:29) – His beginnings in trad climbing(00:23:29) – Developing the skills to free El Cap(00:24:16) – Freeing ‘Golden Gate’ ground up with Sam Stroh(00:26:14) – Comparing his and Sam’s tick lists(00:30:54) – Putting ‘El Corazon’ in a day into context(00:40:44) – Will’s impressive belay season(00:41:25) – Blue-collar sending(00:46:39) – ‘Mr. Chicken’(00:53:38) – Trying hard is trainable(00:58:50) – Anticipation, expectation, and redpoint stress(01:00:59) – Living in the present, and appreciating the journey(01:04:00) – Sending ‘Cobra Crack’ 5.14b(01:10:25) – Training for Cobra on the campus board(01:17:31) – Visualization and lucid dreaming(01:21:30) – More ‘Badman’ beta(01:25:01) – The nuance of resting on sport routes(01:29:09) – Beta depends on context(01:35:58) – Prusik Peak and ‘Prayer for a Friend’(02:00:24) – The style of big wall ascents(02:10:06) – Street credit(02:18:07) – Sending ‘Prayer for a Friend’ 5.14-(02:22:56) – Goal routes and boulders(02:31:42) – Social media vs. inspiration(02:39:41) – Not everything is for everyone(02:45:54) – My climbing as a more public person(02:49:26) – Growing to meet a route where it is(02:51:26) – Get on the hard thing you want to do(02:57:57) – ‘Freerider’ in a day(03:13:19) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Anak Verhoeven is a professional climber from Belgium and one of the most accomplished female sport climbers ever. We talked about growing up with her mom as coach and dad as trainer, why she quit competitions, dealing with a strange injury that plagued her for 3+ years, winning her first World Cup, building 9a+ endurance with mediocre training facilities, making up rules in the gym, her onsighting strategy, being public about her faith, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/60nuggetUse code "60nugget" at checkout for 60% off plus 20% off your next two months!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/anak-verhoevenNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:14) – Living in a small motorhome with her parents on long trips(00:06:40) – Anak’s 9a and harder resume, and her level of fame in Belgium(00:10:03) – How Anak makes a living(00:13:51) – The advantages of doing everything herself(00:15:48) – How her mom and dad became her coach and trainer(00:17:58) – Practicing her autograph as a kid(00:20:13) – Competing in her first international competition(00:22:34) – Struggling in early competitions, and navigating disappointment(00:25:54) – Setting the bar high(00:27:47) – Family meetings(00:31:24) – Rest days, exercises, and hair washing(00:37:04) – Leading her first route at age 4(00:41:08) – Getting injured and falling in love with climbing(00:44:19) – The variety within climbing(00:50:50) – Why Anak quit competitions(00:56:51) – Anak’s strange arm injury(01:06:46) – Working on her shoulder mobility(01:10:21) – Keeping her arm injury a secret(01:14:08) – Current status of her arm(01:17:05) – Understanding what folks with chronic illness go through(01:20:59) – What does Anak miss the most about competitions?(01:25:46) – Longer trips, and the stress of competitions(01:30:43) – Winning her first World Cup in Arco(01:34:05) – The satisfaction of sending Ciudad de Dios pa la Enmienda(01:42:15) – Getting fresh air during competitions(01:44:59) – Anak’s training shed(01:47:57) – Training on the same routes for 3 years, and motivation vs. fancy facilities(01:53:01) – Anak’s strategy for onsighting comp routes(01:57:11) – Making up rules at the gym(02:01:36) – How Anak built her endurance(02:07:15) – Mental endurance(02:11:27) – 9b and trad climbing goals for 2024(02:14:43) – Why she is open about her faith(02:22:33) – How do climbers react to her faith?(02:29:46) – The pressure I felt as a kid to spread faith, and moving away from religion(02:33:09) – How Anak thinks about sharing her faith, and her lack of judgment toward other people(02:34:57) – Choosing her faith for herself(02:37:57) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his FA of ‘B.I.G.’, and sent his hardest boulder with ‘Alphane’ 9A. We talked about his incredible year, learning from Adam Ondra’s risky and efficient climbing style, what he learned from failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, plans for more 9c’s, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jakob-schubertNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:44) – Jakob’s best year ever(00:08:49) – Securing his ticket to Paris, and focusing on B.I.G.(00:10:40) – Inspiration for rock climbing(00:13:20) – Learning about efficiency from outdoor projects(00:16:28) – Less emphasis on winning the overall World Cup(00:18:55) – Giving away his trophies(00:20:08) – Why did Jakob choose ‘B.I.G.’ 9c and A’lphane’ 9A as projects?(00:24:16) – Teaming up with Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi(00:26:48) – Learning from Adam’s risky and efficient climbing style(00:36:13) – The quality of ‘B.I.G.’(00:38:13) – Breakdown and logistics of ‘B.I.G.’(00:43:46) – Breaking a hold on his send go of ‘B.I.G.’(00:45:29) – Did live streaming change the experience?(00:48:22) – Will Jakob do more live streams in the future?(00:50:26) – His project schedule on ‘B.I.G.’(00:53:45) – Logistics of traveling to Flatanger(00:56:26) – Is ‘B.I.G.’ the best hard route in the world?(00:59:36) – Plans to return to ‘DNA’ 9c(01:00:00) – What does ‘B.I.G.’ stand for?(01:01:45) – How Jakob prepared for ‘B.I.G.’, and revisiting the route with fresh eyes(01:09:16) – Tweaking beta to send ‘B.I.G.’(01:11:48) – Muscle memory, connecting hard moves, and repeating boulders with different beta(01:14:48) – “Waking up” his fingers for ‘Alphane’(01:17:14) – Analyzing videos of ‘Alphane’(01:18:28) – Speed training(01:20:02) – Recovery(01:21:09) – Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16 (8C+) and what he learned from it(01:25:48) – Greedy(01:27:47) – What he plans to do differently for ‘Sleepwalker’ when he goes back(01:29:30) – Drew Ruana’s story about Jakob, and who Jakob has been the most impressed by(01:35:27) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Jon Cardwell is back on to talk about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO, how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette’ in France, how he applied Uphill Athlete principles to his training for sport climbing, plans to go back for the extension, bolting 5.15 projects in New Mexico, and much more!Jon’s Original Episode:EP 50: Jon CardwellReferences:Adam Ondra flashing ‘Super Crackinette’ 9a+EP 169: Scott JohnstonTraining for the Uphill Athlete (book)Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Sending ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b (9b)(00:17:40) – How moving away helped him find success(00:22:21) – Failing to climb ‘Super Crackinette’ 5.15a (9a+), and what he learned from it(00:27:29) – Adam Ondra’s flash of ‘Super Crackinette’(00:30:00) – Drawing inspiration from Scott Johnston,  and training for ‘Wind Up Bird’(00:35:53) – Constantly learning(00:40:42) – More about his training(00:45:45) – Falling 50+ times on the same move, and building momentum(00:47:35) – Taking your foot off the gas, maintaining strength, and training plans for the extension(00:54:20) – Exhaustion and motivation(00:56:51) – The complexity of sport climbing(00:58:42) – Is V16 a goal for Jon?(01:01:23) – New 5.15 projects at The Tunnel in NM(01:03:00) – Is anyone trying ‘Wind Up Bird’?(01:05:21) – Will the extension be 5.15c (9b+)?(01:07:12) – Wrap up

Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finger strength while minimizing risk, the value of wrist and hand training, common causes of climbing injuries, his advice for my trip to Hueco, what he learned from his trip to Squamish, why climbers shouldn’t train like gymnasts, what sets the best athletes apart, and much more!Check out C4HP or Schedule an Appointment With Tyler!camp4humanperformance.comc4hpschedule.as.meBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!REGISTER NOW for the PCC!www.performanceclimbingcoach.comUse code "NUGGET" for 10% off Early Bird pricing until Jan 28th!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelson-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:03) – The donut festival(00:06:26) – Tyler’s granite spray wall(00:07:46) – Mirrored boards(00:13:06) – Alcohol and more donuts(00:14:21) – Outline of topics(00:16:17) – Finger training topics(00:34:46) – How Tyler warms up for limit bouldering(00:41:58) – Hand training, recruitment, and coordination(00:49:23) – Summary of our session(00:50:21) – When to end a session(00:52:48) – Using a mix of tools(00:54:26) – Intensity vs. volume(00:59:49) – Building capacity off the wall(01:01:39) – Supplementing your climbing with less risky hand/finger training tools(01:05:22) – When to hangboard (and when not to)(01:09:42) – Learning and changing your mind(01:11:25) – Tyler’s guidance for me in Hueco(01:17:25) – Should we climb less?(01:20:24) – Lions don’t go jogging(01:21:53) – Making sense of Alex Megos’ and Adam Ondra’s training volume(01:23:31) – My takeaways for Hueco(01:24:47) – What Tyler learned from his trip to Squamish(01:30:02) – What is the campus board good for?(01:40:14) – How important is RFD in climbing?(01:44:33) – Common causes of injuries(01:52:32) – Transitioning back to hard climbing(01:54:55) – How your tendons change when you build capacity(01:58:29) – Do our tendons get thicker?(02:00:24) – Where does our long-term finger strength come from?(02:02:57) – What sets the best athletes apart?(02:07:46) – Takeaways(02:11:48) – How Tyler changes his clients’ training habits(02:14:41) – The future of finger training(02:18:04) – Calisthenics vs. strength training(02:26:19) – Are rings exercises strength training?(02:30:12) – More strength training takeaways(02:37:05) – Wrap up

James Pearson is one of the world’s best trad climbers. We discussed a 15-year-old controversy that nearly ended his career, how meeting his wife Caroline saved him, climbing his first 9a after learning how to train, eGrader and quantifying E grades, his decision to suggest E12 for his new route ‘Bon Voyage’, why he was afraid of becoming a dad, what kids taught him, and much more! This was one of my all-time favorite interviews.Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/james-pearsonNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:35) – Getting settled(00:03:13) – Why I feel like I know James(00:05:33) – Introducing the Redemption Story(00:08:10) – Internet backlash(00:10:05) – Coming full circle(00:13:33) – Why it felt important to grade ‘Bon Voyage’(00:17:10) – The full story(00:28:47) – Compassion for himself(00:30:53) – Moving to Innsbruck to work on his sport climbing(00:36:05) – Thinking his pro climbing life was over, meeting Caroline, and their trip to Turkey(00:41:18) – Learning how to train(00:46:33) – 7b+ to 8c+ in 6 months(00:52:32) – Fun and performance(00:53:23) – E grades(00:56:16) – Trying to flash E10 in Pembrook, and falling in love with climbing again(00:59:43) – Returning to ‘Rhapsody’(01:02:10) – Flashing V13 (8B), and his struggle with projecting pressure(01:08:50) – Climbing V15, craving the next level, and living the pro climber dream with Caro(01:17:10) – Why he left the UK, and why it felt important to return to ‘Rhapsody’(01:24:53) – Searching for his hardest trad route(01:25:59) – Making the Redemption film(01:29:21) – eGrader, and understanding E12 and beyond(01:35:47) – Climbing a 9a right after ‘Bon Voyage’(01:37:15) – Talking to Hazel Findlay, and PTSD(01:38:58) – Presenting E12 again 15 years later(01:45:04) – Backlash about grades, and Anna Hazelnutt’s thoughts about Walk of Life(01:49:02) – Breaking down E12 and ‘Bon Voyage’(02:00:53) – Finding ‘Bon Voyage’(02:08:08) – How dangerous is ‘Bon Voyage’?(02:20:23) – Being more scientific about grades(02:24:54) – Why give ‘Bon Voyage’ an E grade?(02:38:44) – Becoming a dad(02:47:47) – What kids taught him(02:53:57) – Rules for climbing with kids, and sending without expectations(02:58:17) – Tips for climbers with kids(03:03:36) – James’ advice for his younger self(03:11:15) – Climbing matters(03:16:45) – Accepting some selfishness, and Caro’s mom(03:23:36) – Training with Ollie Torr for ‘Bon Voyage’, and Caro’s journey back to hard climbing after pregnancy

Brooke Raboutou is an Olympian and a V15 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about growing up in a family of world-class climbers, balancing college with training for the Olympics, her mindset for competitions, why she meditates every day, her favorite hype music, working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, focusing on the bigger picture, competing to win while supporting friends and teammates, how she balances competitions with sending hard boulders, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing REGISTER NOW for the PCC!www.performanceclimbingcoach.comUse code "NUGGET" for 10% off Early Bird pricing until Jan 28th!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brooke-raboutouNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:35) – The first podcast in my cabin, and Brooke’s two-a-day training(00:04:03) – Why college felt so important, and balancing climbing with other interests(00:07:45) – Studying marketing and psychology(00:10:38) – Climbing as a lifetime sport, and pivoting within climbing(00:14:05) – Brooke’s family and upbringing, and balancing college with Olympic training(00:21:34) – Her parents starting ABC climbing, and what it was like having her mom as a coach(00:24:42) – What felt better: winning her first World Cup gold medal, or sending Box Therapy?(00:27:55) – Training for the Olympics, and her hype music for speed climbing(00:32:20) – Brooke’s favorite music(00:37:20) – Wanting to win while supporting your friends and teammates(00:44:17) – The mechanics of qualifying for the Olympics, and Brooke’s mindset for Paris(00:50:09) – How much longer will Brooke focus on competitions?(00:51:20) – Working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, and focusing on the big picture(00:57:11) – The purpose we get from having a goal, and Brooke’s goal to mix psychology and climbing(01:01:41) – Brooke’s mindset approaching competitions(01:06:34) – Balancing fun and focus, different competitors' mindsets, and channeling good energy(01:10:15) – Meditation and breath(01:18:10) – Using her flexibility as a shorter climber, and growing up in gymnastics at CATS(01:23:52) – Dancing on the wall for her warmup(01:25:46) – How to use more flexibility in your climbing(01:26:45) – How did Brooke become so strong in 3F drag?(01:31:14) – Short pinkies and crooked fingers(01:31:53) – Working with her coach Chris Danielson(01:39:09) – Does Brooke train specifically for outdoor goals?(01:41:19) – How outdoor climbing feeds back into competitions(01:43:54) – More about Brooke’s training(01:46:06) – Why Brooke switched from one-arm hangs to weighted two-arm hangs, and using the hangboard for injury prevention(01:47:51) – Working on jumps and leg power, coordination, and mental game(01:49:08) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Will Anglin returns and is joined by coach and trainer Matt Jones. This is one of the most valuable episodes I’ve ever recorded. It’s a GOLD MINE for anyone who wants to progress their climbing. Will and Matt provide clear and in-depth guidance for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers in this three-hour masterclass. If you feel stuck at a plateau or simply want to progress to the next level, don’t skip this episode!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget250Use code "nugget250" at checkout for $250 off!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-and-mattNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro/Ads(00:03:55) – Introducing to Matt Jones(00:06:43) – The goal of this episode, and who it’s for(00:09:20) – How we are defining beginner, intermediate, and advanced(00:12:37) – Reminder about timestamps(00:13:31) – Overview of core themes (skills and strength feedback loop, the four stages of competence, selecting training tools)(00:20:24) – My first plateau in climbing, and helping people identify and address what they’re missing--BEGINNER STARTS HERE--(00:23:45) – Beginner | Overview(00:23:45) – Gaining initial awareness, and meat suit competence(00:25:53) – Beginner | Strong Not Good(00:27:35) – The Hammer(00:28:51) – Not everything is a nail(00:30:00) – The hammeriest hammer Matt and Will have ever seen, and taking away the hammer(00:34:06) – Beginner | Good Not Strong(00:34:06) – The goal for the beginner climber overall is to diversify the toolset(00:34:47) – The Stringbean (aka The Crowbar)(00:36:18) – Overutilizing sneaky tricks, and adding constraints/rules to your climbing(00:41:48) – Interventions for beginners(00:46:35) – Identifying the low-hanging fruit(00:47:40) – Beginner | Summary(00:51:11) – Using climbing as a training intervention(00:53:41) – Checking your ego(00:55:27) – Building strength and skill at the same time through climbing --INTERMEDIATE STARTS HERE--(00:59:06) – Intermediate | Overview(00:59:06) – Exiting the beginner stage, and learning to quantify your progress beyond grades(01:01:42) – “Oh no, now what?!”(01:03:22) – The logarithmic aspect of climbing the grade scale, and the room for growth as a climber(01:05:24) – My experience of collecting more tools in sport climbing in the last 6 years(01:07:14) – Finding what trying hard means, and the Nationals training camp story(01:10:09) – Trying hard vs. trying well(01:12:10) – Identifying what you need to address in your climbing(01:13:30) – Understanding exactly what you’re doing, and why it is working or not working(01:17:54) – Intermediate | Strong Not Good(01:18:51) – Chunking(01:20:25) – Getting beyond the left-right-left, and increasing the resolution of your beta(01:22:47) – The guess and check model, and turning new dials(01:25:21) – The sloth monkey drill, and finding the line(01:27:50) – Hip in vs. square drill(01:29:43) – Building a process for problem-solving(01:30:16) – Guidance for off-the-wall training for the intermediate climber(01:33:38) – Keeping off-the-wall training in perspective, and becoming fluent in training(01:39:20) – A tactical pitfall for intermediate climbers(01:43:00) – Why you shouldn’t punt, the nuance of resting, and energy economy(01:48:20) – Separating practice, training, and performance(01:50:11) – Intermediate | Good Not Strong(01:50:11) – Getting the reps in, and eating your vegetables first(01:56:34) – Strength training to support your movement, and learning to reverse engineer moves(02:03:19) – Asking why, being more intentional, and why Chris Sharma led the intermediate climbers astray(02:04:33) – More on reverse engineering, amplifying your strength through mobility, and being in the correct position(02:07:12) – Learning how to guide yourself, and choosing how to train(02:10:31) – The optimal training plan doesn’t exist, and it’s ok to have fun--ADVANCED STARTS HERE--(02:16:25) – Advanced | Overview(02:18:41) – Specific goals, and going from dial-up to fiber optic(02:21:46) – Advanced | Strong Not Good & Good Not Strong(02:23:57) – Occupying the position(02:29:14) – Mobility and sensation(02:33:33) – Proprioception, feeling mode, and micro beta(02:37:57) – The Golfer study(02:41:00) – The opportunity of the intermediate climber, and Will’s beef with strength metrics(02:43:23) – Affordances, and becoming a better athlete(02:46:31) – Off-the-wall training for an advanced climber, and Usain Bolt(02:51:23) – Misusing tools from the pros(02:56:50) – Wrap up, and EXTRA teaser

Travis Tameirao is a 33-year-old from Rhode Island. On August 13, 2018, his life changed in a freak accident in the climbing gym. Three years and a dozen surgeries later, Travis miraculously returned to climbing and sent his first V10 and V11. We talked about his accident, getting a full knee replacement, how he made a full recovery, his incredible wife Katie, why he swims four times per week, treating yourself like you have the V17 gene, taking responsibility for your life, the interplay of luck and hard work, and much more.Support the Access Fund!accessfund.org/protectBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/travis-tameiraoNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:07:14 – Having a son at 19, semi-pro boxing and bartending to make ends meet, and getting into climbing0:13:31 – Maintaining his own identity once he became a dad0:15:40 – Getting obsessed with climbing, and being reckless out of ignorance0:24:51 – The full story of Travis’ accident on August 13th, 20180:35:20 – Getting his knee reconstructed in December 2019, and losing his Tibial Plateau0:38:31 – The possibility of amputation, and choosing an experimental procedure0:44:18 – Living in constant pain, surgery as a trauma, and holding onto hope0:47:21 – Having a full knee replacement, and feeling like he was given a death sentence0:49:52 – The limitations of Western medicine0:51:55 – Waking up without pain0:53:56 – The gift of walking, and reclaiming his life0:56:55 – Working on regaining his range of motion, and reconnecting with climbing1:05:05 – Getting hurt again sport climbing in Rumney1:09:39 – Losing friends and community during his recovery, and proposing to his wife Katie1:17:40 – The first time he asked Katie out1:20:57 – Gratitude for Katie, and being with a partner through the hard times1:23:41 – Hiking around Mont Blanc on their honeymoon1:26:39 – Focusing on work while he was recovering, and appreciation for the support1:27:40 – Regaining his full range of motion, and climbing his first V10 outside1:31:42 – Mr. Miyagi and the pistol squat1:33:04 – Climbing his first V11, leaving areas better than you found them, and finding boulders in Rhode Island1:36:22 – “Don’t get injured”, learning how to fall, and being unsure of the takeaway1:38:33 – The guy in the wheelchair, and wondering if he is blowing his second chance1:43:01 – Choosing to live a rich and passionate life, the fountain of youth, and facing mortality1:48:10 – A backlog of games and books, and wanting to live forever1:54:19 – Accepting support from Katie, hard conversations, and the transition in their relationship after his recovery2:03:08 – Mothers and empty nests, Travis’ parents relationship, and the feeling of firsts2:07:45 – What climbing means to Travis now, and why Travis swims 4 days per week2:10:46 – Long-term climbing goals, and sponsoring himself2:14:43 – Growing up a block away from his wife, and all of the things climbing has brought him2:17:24 – Treating yourself like you have the V17 gene2:19:15 – How Travis made a full recovery when many others didn’t, drawing inspiration from anime, and being the main character in your own story2:26:43 – Taking the wheel, and advocating for yourself2:32:14 – Sharing his story, and being a resource2:36:46 – Kind words about the podcast2:39:58 – Luck and hard work2:42:26 – More kind words2:45:32 – Iontophoresis2:47:01 – Wrap up and Travis’ phone number

Melina Costanza swept the US National Championships in October, making one hell of a comeback after her competition break. She returns to the podcast to talk about why Nationals was the hardest competition she has ever done, how to use nerves to focus and thrive, training for Nationals, praising effort, her fueling strategy, gaining weight to be more powerful, Alex Johnson’s hype shirt, balancing training with fueling and mental health, choosing good over perfect, upcoming goals, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/melina-costanza-returnsNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:04:40 – Recovery from her foot surgery, and sweeping the National Championships in Boise Idaho0:07:05 – Trying a new approach with fueling and training0:08:17 – A message about Melina from Tyson Schoene0:09:55 – Why Nationals was the hardest competition Melina has ever done, and finding flow in the sport climbing final0:16:00 – Training primarily for bouldering, and proving to herself that she is a better climber than before0:21:39 – The limit is higher when you focus on getting stronger vs. lighter0:23:28 – The nerves and joy of competitions, and a weight lifted0:29:10 – Training for lead and bouldering at the same time, and her training phases before Nationals0:34:51 – How she won lead despite her lack of power endurance after getting covid, and the mental side of competition0:37:11 – Praising her effort more than her performance0:41:21 – Effort is trainable0:42:48 – How Melina’s fueling strategy has changed, eating more carbs on comp days, and Sour Patch Kids0:51:13 – Gaining weight to be more powerful0:54:06 – What Melina does when she has dark thoughts around eating, and how to know when you’re “overtraining”0:58:51 – Knowing when to take more rest vs. put your head down and do the work1:01:51 – Doing every part of your training for a reason1:06:30 – “You just have to go to win.”1:10:55 – Coming out last in finals, and pressure as a privilege1:13:46 – Alex Johnson’s shirt1:16:03 – Balancing training, fueling, and mental health, and choosing good over perfect1:19:01 – What Melina would tell others who struggle with eating disorders1:22:07 – The false promise of success, achieving your goals while being true to who you are, carrying guilt, and giving each other permission to be imperfect1:27:37 – Surrounding yourself with people who love you unconditionally1:29:55 – Melina’s goals1:33:11 – Melina’s thoughts on the Paris Olympics, and the 2028 Olympic games1:35:56 – Thanks to Melina for bringing us along on her journey1:37:16 – Check out this week’s Patreon bonus episode for more fun facts with Melina!

Pete Whittaker is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers of all time. We talked about his current trip to Moab trying Stranger Than Fiction, how he trained for the FA of Crown Royale 9a, the skills needed to climb cutting-edge cracks, why he is still working on improving at ring locks, the futuristic Crucifix Project, his most fun/rewarding/miserable/traumatic trips with Tom Randall, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetHoliday Sale going on now with up to 25% off!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/pete-whittakerNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:05:34 – Pete’s breakfast and voice0:06:29 – Pete and Tom’s current mission in Moab, and what makes that area so unique0:10:02 – Goals on trips, and working on ring locks as a weakness0:12:22 – How Pete and Tom ring lock differently0:14:57 – Pete’s book on crack climbing techniques0:15:56 – Trying Mason Earl’s route Stranger Than Fiction0:20:14 – Breakdown and progress on Stranger Than Fiction0:21:58 – Pete’s first visit to the Profile Wall in Norway to try Recovery Drink, and working his way through the established free routes0:27:54 – The style of climbing on the Profile Wall, and the skills needed to climb hard there0:30:08 – Placing 17 pieces of gear on the 100m Crown Royale 9a0:32:35 – Breakdown of Crown Royale 9a, and running it out on the send0:38:13 – Pete’s process on Crown, and projecting the top half as its own pitch0:40:42 – How Pete and Tom decide which projects to try together vs. individually0:43:19 – The most FUN trip with Tom (Century Crack trip)0:45:20 – The most MISERABLE trip with Tom (Bridge Boys)0:46:21 – The most TRAUMATIZING trip with Tom (Yosemite)0:49:09 – The most REWARDING trips with Tom (exploring the White Rim)0:50:27 – The Crucifix project0:53:26 – How Pete trained for Crown Royale 9a0:57:06 – Embracing the suck, why Pete is good at resting in stressful positions, and training stamina as a kid1:00:17 – Pete’s early climbing, venturing into more dangerous routes as a teenager, and doing the first ascent of an E9 at age 17 with his mom on belay1:06:12 – Why Pete loves offwidthing, and other styles of climbing that involve lots of suffering1:10:42 – How geeky is Pete about training?1:13:10 – Adding structure, and training with Lattice for Crown Royale1:14:51 – Shoulder conditioning for Crown, and what exercises he plans to continue doing1:17:51 – Keeping tabs on the world’s hardest trad routes, and Pete’s thoughts on trying Tribe1:20:09 – How Pete picks objectives and goals, and riding the waves1:23:07 – Pete’s recent trip to Yosemite with Mari1:25:37 – Using Darth Grader to suggest the grade of 9a for Crown Royale1:34:33 – How Pete’s experience with Crown Royale compared to Recovery Drink1:37:33 – Unclimbed lines on the Profile Wall, and where the name “Crown Royale” came from1:39:26 – Check out the Patron-only EXTRA with the Wide Boyz!

Matt Segal is back on the podcast! Matt is one of the boldest trad climbers of his generation and just had his best climbing year ever at age 39. We talked about his new YouTube channel cooking show, his top cooking tips and the key to making delicious food, how he prepared to send Kryptonite 9a, and his ascent along with teammates Jesse Huey and Jordan Cannon of the famous Todd Skinner route ‘Cowboy Direct’ on the Nameless Tower in Pakistan.Subscribe to Matt’s YouTube Channel!youtube.com/@MattSegalOfficialBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-segal-returnsNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:06:37 – Jet lag and a whirlwind of travel0:08:14 – What Matt has been in the three years since our last episode, his FA on Mt Hooker with Jesse Huey, and getting engaged0:11:38 – Short recap of Matt’s paragliding accident in 20170:12:15 – Matt’s new YouTube channel, his magazine Brine, and his traveling + climbing + cooking idea0:15:05 – Getting deeper into cooking during the pandemic, and the vision for the YouTube channel0:18:44 – Upcoming guests on Matt’s channel, and my impression of the show0:22:16 – Matt’s #1 cooking tip, and the key to making delicious food0:27:40 – Matt’s go-to meals0:29:56 – Balancing nutrition with his love for cooking and enjoying life, traveling with his portable Traeger Grill, and his YouTube giveaway0:32:52 – Why Matt added protein shakes to his routine when he was trying Kryptonite0:37:23 – How Matt eats when he travels internationally, and his go-to bars for expeditions0:40:37 – Wanting to climb 9a, and what he learned from trying Kryptonite0:46:18 – His fiance’s accident at The Fortress the day he sent Kryptonite0:51:38 – Matt’s training leading up to trying Kryptonite, and setting mini-sub-goals0:57:10 – Try hard0:58:31 – The difference between sport climbing and hard dangerous trad climbing (headpointing)0:59:17 – Cutting edge trad routes worldwide1:01:05 – Going to Pakistan to try the famous route Cowboy Direct on Nameless Tower1:06:47 – What it feels like to climb 5.12 and 5.13 at 20,000 feet, the logistics involved to prep the route, and necessary suffering1:13:55 – How Matt felt after coming back from Pakistan, pivoting to hard trad, and moving away from dangerous climbing1:16:53 – Closing this chapter for Micah Dash1:20:18 – Astrisks in big wall and alpine climbing, the bond created between Matt, Jesse, and Jordan1:22:02 – Tough gainer1:25:23 – Patron question from Connor: Any cool Micah Dash stories?1:27:55 – New products from Alpine Start1:29:50 – Upcoming stuff for Matt1:31:02 – The enjoyment of food and what that means, and being more deliberate about who you spend your time with1:32:47 – Wrap up

Will Anglin is an expert boulderer and the founder of Tension Climbing. I love the way this guy thinks, and there are many nuggets in this episode. We talked about the key principles of climbing hard, the most common confusion points about training for climbing, why we should treat climbing like baseball, the number one thing all climbers should do, the evolution of Tension, why it took 10+ years to develop the Tension Board 2 (TB2), why every detail matters when building a new product, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget250Use code "nugget250" at checkout for $250 off!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, and Alex PlutaShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-anglinNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:05:06 – Eggs and espresso0:06:55 – Focus on protein to save mental energy0:09:49 – Cat litter0:10:56 – Two main topics I want to cover with Will0:13:06 – An email I sent Will in 2015, and why I transitioned away from the Anderson brothers’ way of training0:17:49 – Will’s early climbing, youth competitions, wanting to be strong, and getting into training0:26:28 – Will’s first time deep water soloing at Summersville Lake0:27:57 – Trad climbing in the Black Canyon0:31:26 – Pivoting to bouldering, and the bouldering vs. sport climbing in Colorado0:35:56 – Why Will has spent more time developing boulders than sport climbs, and why people chip routes0:40:02 – Chipping in bouldering, and suspending your disbelief0:47:09 – Why the “best way to train” is not a useful concept0:54:26 – Why it doesn’t make sense to copy the pros0:55:48 – The baseball analogy0:59:04 – Why your hangboarding should change over the course of your climbing career1:00:13 – Working on skills at sub-maximal intensity, and learning to connect training with rock climbing skill development1:03:44 – “Keep the goal the goal.” - Dan John1:05:19 – The best climbers are the most adaptable climbers1:09:01 – Will’s ‘Hangboarding: A Way’ article, and the most common confusion points and questions that Will gets about advice he’s given in the past1:10:59 – Why you shouldn’t take time away from your climbing time to do more strength training1:14:48 – It’s normal to fail on climbs that are easier than your max redpoint grade1:17:04 – Why I started seeking out more “basic” power climbs, and how modern training is affecting outdoor bouldering grades1:19:37 – How styles and grades evolve over time1:24:15 – “The concept of a well-rounded climber moves.”1:25:52 – Why people used to say Joe’s Valley is soft, and how gym climbing shapes our conception of climbing1:30:35 – Conflating doability with difficulty, and finding the beta that fits you1:33:51 – Why Will feels like he learned how to climb in Gunnison, and the value of climbing on different rock types1:35:54 – Discovering that hard climbs can be fun, and wow traveling has allowed me to discover what I actually enjoy most in climbing1:39:39 – Why grades tend to become more confusing as you progress, and the weirdness at the top-level grades1:43:09 – The unconstrained nature of climbing, and box checking1:49:07 – “It’s not about the exercise.”1:54:00 – “The number one thing is go rock climbing.”2:00:54 – How not all climbing styles are created equal in the way they develop you as a climber, and why I’m so impressed with the Tension Board 22:04:43 – Our culture’s obsession with climbing, and validating climbing just because it’s fun2:07:23 – The Climbing Community is Imaginary2:08:49 – There are many valid ways to “be a climber”2:11:14 – How Will feels about climbing after building Tension, having no breaks from it, and creating separation between his personal climbing and his business2:13:59 – One of Will’s main priorities with Tension, having a life outside of Tension and climbing, playing musical instruments, having carpal tunnel, and building guitars2:20:12 – The evolution of Tension, and how the company started2:28:56 – How the Flash Board came to be2:30:49 – More about the development of the Tension Board 22:36:54 – Designing the holds for the TB2, and why the design process should start with the raw materials2:42:24 – Getting benighted in the Black Canyon2:48:31 – “Everything fucking matters.”2:50:29 – Take the time to build a solid foundation2:52:48 – Wrap up

Mat Wright has quickly established himself as one of the best trad climbers in Britain and is a world-class all-rounder having climbed E11, 5.14c, and V15. We talked about his humble beginnings in low-income government housing, teaching himself how to rope solo as a teenager, reaching V13 and 5.14c in his first three years of climbing, pivoting to hardcore trad climbing, his upcoming film in the Brit Rock Film Tour, and much more!Get Your Tickets for Brit Rock! (Streaming Nov 9-13)britrockfilmtour.comBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, and Alex PlutaShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mat-wrightNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:05:35 – Why Mat wears sunglasses when he climbs0:07:02 – Mat’s difficult upbringing, and growing up in a council estate (low-income government housing)0:11:41 – Meeting his dad at 13 and moving in with him, and how Mat got himself into rock climbing0:15:47 – Building a board in his mom’s back garden, and sending 8c+ and 8B (5.14c and V13) within his first 3 years of climbing0:17:21 – What climbing brought to Mat’s life0:19:51 – Neil Gresham’s masterclass videos, and setting his eyes on Hubble0:23:13 – Sending Hubble, and the negative side of punching the clock on projects0:29:39 – Being optimistic, and why Mat resonates with hard scary trad climbing0:32:39 – The line between optimism vs. recklessness0:35:17 – How Mat “caught up” with his education, and the appeal of climbing for someone with a busy mind0:39:39 – Mat’s partner Anna Taylor, and her role in The House of the Gods film (I said Argentina but it was in Venezuela)0:41:37 – Coasteering with Anna0:45:40 – Wildlife, nerding out, and how he and Anna relax0:47:28 – Living in a van, fingerboarding, and going with the flow with his climbing0:49:25 – Sprinting toward a goal, and spending 60-70% of his time chilling0:54:34 – What Mat’s training looked like early on, how it’s evolved over time, and addressing specific weaknesses0:57:34 – Understanding your climbing pace, and the dance of sport climbing1:00:24 – How Mat guides his clients with their climbing pace1:06:19 – Our tendance to overthink things, and not believe in ourselves1:08:29 – The power of specific goals, and asking yourself what you really want to get out of climbing1:12:35 – Balancing short-term and long-term goals1:16:51 – How to get coaching from Mat1:18:21 – Climbing his first V15 shortly after Hubble, and pivoting to trad and sending Lexicon E111:23:03 – The reaction to him sending Lexicon1:26:27 – Feeling desensitized to exposure, and early free soloing1:28:24 – The effect that online comments have on real people1:32:31 – Our brains’ negative bias, and trolling as an outlet for frustration1:35:21 – Anna’s harassment, and Mat’s controversial reputation1:40:29 – What happens when you respond to negative comments with kindness1:42:36 – Stepping into a protective role for his partner, and losing his sponsors1:44:29 – Mat as a Berghaus athlete1:49:19 – Mat’s film ‘Hard Git’ in the upcoming Brit Rock Film Tour1:55:49 – A deep dive into Mat’s FA of Magical Thinking E10, and finding flow on the send2:01:13 – Mat’s FA of Black Thistle E10, and converting E grades to the American YDS grades2:04:04 – The animalistic nature of trad, why the Brits don’t bolt everything, and the American healthcare system2:07:35 – Challenge vs. difficulty2:10:26 – James Pearson as the best trad climber in the world, and Mat’s kinship to Dave MacLeod2:12:25 – Mat and I each talk about our experiences trying the keto diet2:16:18 – I recap my story with disordered eating and recovery, and Mat describes his experience with burnout after Hubble2:22:05 – What happened with Rhapsody, and his thoughts on returning2:27:21 – Mat’s rope solo setup2:29:43 – Go-to music2:30:15 – Mat’s dream climbing expedition, the adventure and fun of climbing, and sending Gaia E82:34:46 – Think more about yourself and less about other people2:35:44 – Cycle touring, and Mat’s thoughts on taking long breaks from climbing2:42:36 – Where to connect with Mat, and details about the upcoming Brit Rock Film Tour

Alex Biale is an elite boulderer based in CO. We talked about his family legacy of bootlegging wine in Napa Valley, how he got into climbing, his legendary training with Jon Glassberg, pushing himself to the breaking point to send V14, seriously injuring his knee, working with Ollie Torr to overhaul his style and become stronger than ever, the keys to a balanced and happy life, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, and Alex PlutaShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-bialeNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:05:34 – Steak and wine0:06:16 – Alex’s connection to the Jon Glassberg and Ollie Torr episodes0:07:37 – Alex’s upbringing in Napa, his family legacy of bootlegging wine, and the origin story of Black Chicken0:12:21 – Working in the vineyard as a kid, and growing up surrounded by family0:15:36 – Alex’s dad, and doing family backpacking trips to Tahoe0:20:02 – Getting into climbing0:21:59 – Parallels to the Josh Champion episode, looking up to CA climbers, getting into highballing, and putting V13 and V1 4 on a pedestal0:31:01 – Training with Jon Glassberg0:35:11 – Sending Mind to Motion V14, breaking from the training, and feeling lost after achieving his goal0:39:59 – Climbing classic V8s in Leavenworth, rediscovering his love for climbing, and adopting a beginners mindset0:47:58 – History, aesthetics, the amount of climbing in CO, and redefining challenge0:51:56 – Desiring to become a well-rounded climber0:58:23 – What gets people stuck, and being honest about what you want from climbing1:03:20 – Combining strengths and weaknesses1:09:32 – The perfect storm of training with Jon1:13:20 – Playing the long game, and drawing inspiration from Martin Keller1:17:33 – Why you shouldn’t train like a pro climber (unless you’re a pro climber)1:22:50 – The advice Alex got from Will Anglin, and climbing with rules1:34:42 – Why Alex hired Ollie Torr to coach him1:45:43 – What’s different about training with Ollie on a principle level1:52:24 – Injurying his knee, and transforming his climbing style2:00:26 – The keys to staying consistent with climbing and training, and the value of a spray wall2:16:12 – The keys to staying on top of things at work, and Alex’s business ventures2:23:47 – Carrying a load, hitting rock bottom, and adding value2:31:26 – The keys to maintaining a healthy relationship2:37:59 – Wrap up, and very kind words from Alex about the podcast

Jesse Firestone is back on the podcast! We talked about his injury this spring and finding silver linings, why he focused more on weight training than climbing this summer, shifting his priorities to spending more time on projects, biggest lessons from the past three years of coaching, Adam Ondra’s hip flexibility, how to become more flexible through climbing, why visualization is an excellent use of your time, and much more!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/60nuggetUse code "60NUGGET" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Zach EmerySupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-firestone-returnsNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:05:53 – Jesse’s Winter and Spring season, his wrist injury, and his trip to Fontainebleau0:11:53 – Losing muscle, falling into our own pitfalls, and a sales pitch for having a coach0:15:45 – Stoic philosophy, finding the silver lining, and why Jesse climbed a lot less than usual over the summer0:18:49  – Being stubborn about rock climbing, and plans to balance that with more weight lifting0:20:32 – Why Jesse is moving toward less volume and more projecting0:25:31 – Work capacity0:29:48 – My summer trip, and what I would do the same vs differently to prepare next time0:34:22 – Chasing the highs, and the reset of a bad injury0:37:29 – Being content with not sending my project in Rocklands, and Jesse and I talk about struggling to find inspiration there0:43:53 – What I’ve realized about active rest days in Rocklands0:47:57 – Why Jesse didn’t set any goals on paper in 20230:49:57 – Thai0:51:25 – How Jesse’s coaching business has evolved, and how he uses Instagram0:56:03 – “A good coach knows when to be a window and when to be a mirror.”0:56:33 – Lessons from Jesse’s first few years of coaching1:05:23 – How coaching has led him to being a more compassionate person1:08:43 – Summary of coaching lessons1:09:33 – Intent vs. content of training1:12:55 – Adam Ondra’s hip flexibility, writing a book, and how to improve flexibility through climbing1:22:10 – Having a positive attitude about your flexibility1:29:55 – 3 benefits of visualization for climbers1:39:53 – The nuts and bolts of visualization1:46:47 – Jesse puts his coach hat on and encourages me to climb faster1:51:47 – Visualization for onsighting, and Adam Ondra’s onsight of Just Do It1:54:20 – Wrap up

Josh Champion is an MD and elite boulderer based in Portland, Oregon. Josh and I hung out in 2017 during my infamous Bishop trip. Since then he moved to Colorado for residency, got even stronger, and then quit climbing shortly after sending his first three V13s. We talked about why he quit for three years, how he improved his relationship with climbing, helpful books, building Just Beta, and much more!The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Zach EmerySupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-championNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:03:51 – Intermittent fasting, Josh’s “salad”, and diet soda in the morning0:07:15 – Reminiscing about the 2017 Bishop trip, Josh’s send of Mandala, and clarifying the timing of my journey with disordered eating0:12:07 – What happened to Josh after the 2017 trip, and moving to Colorado for residency0:17:55 – How the pandemic affected his work, and sending his first three V13s0:19:28 – Putting V13 on a pedestal0:23:51 – Expectations vs reality of achieving a goal0:26:21 – Delayed gratification vs learning how to enjoy the process0:27:52 – Josh and I explore what drives us to pursue goals, and pure inspiration vs seeking approval from others0:33:41 – Why Josh quit climbing0:36:16 – What it felt like to quit, filling the gap, and creating BetaCache0:42:35 – Finding a new physical outlet, and his mindset shift after being away from climbing0:47:27 – Discovering who you are without climbing0:49:34 – Not missing climbing, Josh’s antagonistic climbing friendship, and being free from comparison0:52:48 – What brought him back to climbing0:55:41 – Working on his relationship with climbing1:01:14 – The Zen of Climbing1:07:22 – Inner balance and friction1:09:48 – Feeling cautious but optimistic, and shifting the emphasis1:11:52 – Trying Woods Climb in Red Rocks, and plans for his upcoming trip to Moe’s Valley1:16:34 – Meeting Jonathan Siegrist, starting to climb because we enjoyed it, and when that shifted for Josh1:23:43 – Seeking challenge is healthy until you start putting numbers on it1:27:44 – Treating climbing like a martial art or a craft1:30:28 – Finding satisfaction and accomplishment in the process1:31:44 – Josh’s thoughts about trying hard projects in the future1:34:29 – Letting go of needing to check climbs off the list1:37:27 – What inner work looks like, and Josh’s claim to fame1:41:31 – The value of learning lessons the hard way1:44:19 – Realizing you are not alone1:45:54 – Why Josh created BetaCache, and the updated version JustBeta.net

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Martin Keller is back on the podcast! We met up in Magic Wood over the summer and recorded another great conversation. We talked about his send of Gateway V16/8C+, using video review to make breakthroughs, why you shouldn’t spend 50+ days on a project as he does, gaining 13 kgs to send his hardest boulder, his simple training routine, how he is still getting stronger at 45, and Martin gave me feedback and advice on my climbing.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:54:13.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingMartin's Original Episode:EP 109: Martin Keller

Lily Kral is the owner of Boardworks in Bend, Oregon. We talked about her childhood and her mother’s struggle with addiction, being hospitalized for an eating disorder, exotic dancing her way through college, finding an identity as a strong climber, why she decided to build a board climbing gym, biggest challenges, burning the candle at both ends, being a work in progress, training for 5.14 at Smith Rock, and much more!Listen to the Patron Show on Spotify!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/lily-kralNuggets:0:04:13 – Lily sets the scene0:06:46 – Minimalist vs. mooch0:08:50 – Lily’s childhood, her mom’s struggle with addiction, and seeking control0:14:48 – Hussling vegetable at 10 years old0:16:55 – Feeling unpopular in high school, wanting external validation, and being hospitalized for an eating disorder0:21:17 – Exotic dancing in college0:26:20 – The stigma around exotic dancing, and more about Lily’s experience in that world0:33:46 – Type 1 vs type 2 thinking0:36:15 – Coming out of retirement for a weekend0:38:08 – Her time as a full-time route setter, burning the candle at both ends, and existing in fight or flight0:40:53 – Moving to LA to become a head route setter0:43:44 – Issues with substances, and how Lily was able to stay sober as a dancer0:46:25 – Building Boardworks, and where the idea came from0:52:16 – Why she chose Bend for her first location0:57:14 – The Boardworks model, and what makes it special and unique1:06:14 – The biggest challenges of opening and running a gym1:11:02 – Delegation, and letting go of control1:15:34 – More unforeseen challenges, and annoying questions from people who assume your work is easy1:20:22 – Email1:25:26 – Portaling1:26:55 – The discomfort of feeling flaky, and practicing radical honesty1:30:23 – Wanting the invite, keeping our options open, and how texting has made us flaky1:32:08 – What Lily wishes she had known about marketing, and why construction is always behind schedule1:35:56 – Undervaluing design and aesthetics1:38:13 – Tying her identity to how hard she’s climbing1:41:32 – Being a work in progress with disordered eating, and obsessive and compulsive behaviors in climbers1:50:47 – Unpacking why we want to climb 5.141:56:12 – My thoughts on trying Badman again at Smith Rock, and climbing hard and being happy at the same time1:59:40 – Lily’s thoughts on board training for Smith Rock2:01:53 – Doing weighted pullups on a hangboard, and training endurance for To Bolt or Not To Be (first 5.14a in America)2:06:26 – Working on getting validation from herself, and bringing more energy to other parts of her life2:08:46 – Being in the present moment2:10:34 – Having more grace for others and for ourselves2:12:31 – Follow @boardworks_climbing on Instagram

Joey Jannsen and Rich Breuner are the founders of Ocelot Grips. We talked about their “why” for starting a climbing hold company, why the small details matter, how to make dual tex, why you can’t buy their holds online, building relationships with your customers, being fans of sports, the future of indoor climbing, the entrepreneurial spirit, producing underground hip-hop concerts, cage fighting, and much more!Check out Ocelot Grips! ocelotgrips.com*Not a paid endorsement, I just think they're cool!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joey-and-richNuggets:0:04:20 – Soundcheck and bevies0:05:30 – Rich talks about producing underground hip-hop shows during the summers in college0:09:08 – Joey talks about cage fighting0:11:53 – My background in manufacturing climbing holds, and our conversation six years ago about their idea for Ocelot0:14:05 – Why they decided to outsource their production0:15:37 – Joey’s background in route setting and shaping0:18:52 – Joey’s “why” for starting Ocelot Grips0:22:06 – Rich’s “why” for starting Ocelot Grips, and his background in business operations and management0:24:53 – Expressing your identity through business0:26:15 – The Hedgehog concept0:28:12 – Why they chose the name Ocelot0:29:09 – How The Nugget got its name0:33:08 – What sets Ocelot apart from other brands, and the Shade Theory series0:38:56 – Having a flavor0:40:55 – Wanting to be involved in the setting community0:44:47 – Why you can’t buy Ocelot holds online0:48:50 – Getting feedback0:51:53 – Attention to detail0:56:26 – How you do something is how you do everything0:56:58 – Ocelot’s manufacturing partner Peak Performance Polymers1:00:23 – Joey’s dual tex process, and how climbing holds are made1:05:29 – The logo1:07:05 – The business planning phase, processing orders, and learning as you go1:09:33 – Biggest challenges, and building Ocelot as a side hustle1:11:46 – Bluey1:12:40 – How far they’ve come, and what it will take for Ocelot to be their full-time jobs1:15:48 – Making career choices to maximize time1:18:40 – Where to climb on Ocelot holds, and gratitude1:21:38 – Joey describes the four current families of Ocelot holds1:25:38 – Wanting to see their holds in competitions1:29:54 – Being sports fans, and being excited about where climbing is heading1:38:45 – Novel moves in competitions1:41:15 – Putting on more than 50 competitions1:44:11 – Joey shares a few nuggets for route setters (relevant for creative people)1:54:01 – Rich shares a few nuggets about business2:01:48 – Where to find Ocelot, and wrap up

Stefanie Myr is the head route setter, manager, and team coach at Climb Tacoma in WA. We met up in Leavenworth and talked about our similar upbringings in Christianity, why we both moved away from religion, finding “church” in the climbing community, confidence and self-belief, unique challenges as a short climber, being less certain and more curious, Stef’s polyamorous relationship with her husband and partner, compersion, honest communication, doing what you can to make the world a little better, and much more!Listen to the Patron Show on Spotify!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stefanie-myrNuggets:0:04:05 – Miniature carpentry, and a gift for me0:11:49 – Stef role at Climb Tacoma, and the gym as a core part of her community1:17:19 – How she first got a job at Climb Tacoma, and having a diverse group of people on the team0:20:16 – Stef’s unique financial situation, and the sustainability of working at a climbing gym0:22:38 – Moving away from her Christian upbringing, and finding “church” at the climbing gym0:25:09 – Our parallels with church music and moving away from organized religion0:30:31 – Bullet point lists, and how the gym functions like a “church”0:32:07 – Meeting people who changed the way we thought about organized religion0:35:16 – Stef’s upbringing and programming, and not realizing she was bisexual until college0:38:39 – Stef’s husband Julien0:40:34 – Stef’s confidence, choosing Giant Man as an objective, and gaining something from every climb0:46:17 – Frustration with height and grades, and needing to be V12 strong to climb V100:48:02 – My conversation with Nic Rummel about grades, and an announcement about the Patron show being on Spotify0:51:19 – Sending Pimpsqueak V8/9 in Leavenworth, ABR (always be rolling), and why recording send videos feels important0:56:02 – The power of seeing someone like you climb hard things1:00:42 – More about confidence, embracing powerful moves, learning from coaching little kids, and unlocking pieces of the puzzle1:08:18 – The moments that show you that you’ve gotten better at climbing, and Stef’s mountain1:10:23 – Stef’s dream boulder in Goldbar WA, and other goals in Leavenworth1:12:01 – How Stef got on The Nugget1:21:52 – Self-belief, wanting to be good, and the power of affirmation1:26:17 – Our brain’s reaction to negative comments, and how Stef deals with trolls1:38:02 – The lawyer in my brain, and making people think differently by asking better questions1:39:51 – Less certain more curious1:42:47 – Stef’s polyamorous relationship, and why she wanted to talk about it1:50:50 – Normalizing sex, and redefining cheating in an open relationship1:56:18 – Equating sex and intimacy to love, how cool her husband is, and the story of how she came to be with her partner2:03:22 – Jealousy, and honest communication2:05:32 – Why Stef wanted to talk about her open relationship, and why people who are poly are not free-for-alls2:09:53 – Bringing all of who you are to yourself as a climber2:11:53 – Compersion2:15:11 – The depth of her relationship with her husband before they opened their relationship, and the distinction between security and trust2:17:53 – Marriage, and Stef’s future with her partner2:24:47 – Double the love and laundry, and Stef’s life in a go bag2:26:50 – Check-ins, RADAR, smoking weed, and “ask don’t assume”2:32:23 – Double-committing, and learning to communicate her plans2:39:18 – What Stef wishes people spent more time thinking about2:41:10 – Make the world a little better2:42:20 – My episode with Ethan Pringle about his dad, and the importance of airing out the messiness2:47:35 – Stef’s sponsors2:51:08 – Pursuing the child-free life, and final thoughts

In this short episode, I correct a mistake from my latest episode with Katie Lamb and talk about the four women who have climbed V15. Thanks to Katharina for bringing this to my attention, and all the respect and admiration to Ashima Shiraishi, Kaddi Lehmann, Mishka Ishi, and Oriane Bertone. You are legends!

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Katie Lamb is back on to talk about her groundbreaking ascent of Box Therapy V16. In case you’ve been living under a rock (or haven’t been) Katie recently sent the hardest boulder of her life and became the first woman to send a V16. We go in-depth into her projecting processes, why she picked Box Therapy as a project, her greatest challenges, why she only tried the boulder once per week, her personal key to sending hard boulders, joy vs. excitement, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:40:34.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingKatie’s Other Episodes:EP 145: Katie LambFollow-Up: Katie Lamb (Apr 20, 2023)

The final episode from Rocklands! Ethan Pringle joins me for a fireside chat on my last day in South Africa. We share a wrap-up of the trip, and tackle Patron questions about Ethan’s back injury and rehab, his favorite climbing areas in California, why I still do “No Hangs”, my send of Octopussy, projecting tips, how I use the Tindeq, Ethan’s most epic bat hangs, mental health struggles and setbacks, challenging your perceived limits, why Ethan thinks I should spend more time training on commercial gym sets, my thoughts about Rocklands overall, and much more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/60nuggetUse code "60NUGGET" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-7Nuggets:0:03:51 – Rocklands Recap:0:03:51 – My recap of being sick, and how fast time flies on a trip0:11:55 – Comparing my trips to Magic Wood and Rocklands, and my main takeaway0:13:07 – Ethan’s trip recap, and remaining goals0:18:22 – Recap of my journey on Black Shadow0:22:32 – Some of the other hard boulders I tried0:24:06 – The line between having a “bad” vs “good” trip0:25:29 – Expectations vs. reality, and resetting your reference points to find gratitude0:28:02 – Patron Questions:0:28:02 – Shawn’s Question: Ethan’s back injury/rehab, his plans to lift weights, and the rigors of bouldering in Rocklands0:34:04 – Shawn’s Question: No Hangs, finding your max load for training, and my current approach to finger strength0:38:40 – Rajiv’s Question: Top routes that have inspired Ethan, Connor Herson’s repeat of Black Beard’s Tears, and Ethan’s FA in Greenland0:41:47 – Rajiv’s Question: China Beach in Rumney0:43:05 – Rajiv’s Question: Chris Linder’s route Window of Opportunity0:47:59 – Travis’ Question: My send of Octopussy, the process, and projecting tips0:56:40 – Colin’s Question: Where Ethan developed his love for climbing, being a gym rat at heart, and his early climbing in CA1:00:10 – Colin’s Question: Go-to climbing areas near San Francisco, Ethan’s thoughts on Jailhouse, and areas in northern CA1:03:42 – Colin’s Question: Bouldering exploration in the Eastern Sierras, and unfinished business at Shuteye Ridge1:09:58 – Colin’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on the bouldering near LA1:13:11 – Cody’s Question: Tindeq protocols, edge sizes, and some notes about my finger training on the trip1:19:40 – Patreon plug, and info about Q&As1:21:26 – Daniel’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on bat hangs1:28:02 – Alan’s Question: Which climber’s superpowers we wish we had1:31:44 – Jacob’s Question: Ethan’s thoughts on mental health struggles, and how that plays into his climbing1:35:28 – Why loving yourself won’t make you lose your edge1:39:02 – Wren’s Question: My thoughts on sport climbing in the future, and meeting climbing partners on the road1:44:20 – Jacob’s Question: Favorite sport climbing destinations in the US1:46:25 – Unpacking the word “favorite”1:47:15 – Lars’ Question: Dealing with setbacks and mental struggles1:49:33 – The beauty of Rocklands1:51:07 – Connor’s Question: Most memorable boulders, and life list boulders1:57:03 – Cooper’s Question: Favorite home crags near the Bay that Ethan never gets tired of, and remaining highballs in Bishop1:59:13 – Luke’s Question: Challenging your perceived limits2:09:08 – More Thoughts About Rocklands:2:09:08 – Why Ethan thinks I should spend more time on commercial gym sets2:10:40 – My thoughts on the climbing in Rocklands, and why I was hesitant to talk about it2:19:28 – Sweet spot grades in different areas, and wanting to be good enough to enjoy weird or unpleasant climbs2:22:59 – We need that 18-year-old Moonboard energy2:24:32 – Wanting to come back, and wrap up

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis is an expert boulderer and a doctor of PhysioTherapy from Australia. This episode is all about dynos! Ethan Pringle joins us for another fireside chat as we talk about how Mattias became “the dyno guy” in Rocklands, categories of difficulty and how to grade dynos, how training his legs made him a better all-around boulderer, the key to having the best trip of your life, changing his mindset and enjoying his climbing more than ever, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mattias-braach-maksvytisNuggets:0:05:26 – Exhales and accents0:08:02 – How Mattias and I first met outside a bathroom in Hueco0:11:26 – Becoming “the Dyno guy” in Rocklands, and his dyno resume0:18:16 – His first hard dynos, and early trips to Font0:21:06 – Hotspots for dynos around the world, and the new 8C/V15 dyno in Spain0:23:57 – Trying an obscure dyno in Bishop, and beta mining0:25:36 – ‘The End’ 8A in Rocklands, and what makes a good dyno0:28:08 – Dyno FAs in Rocklands, and dynos that are ahead of their time0:32:12 – ‘Industry of Cool’ 8A+, getting better at coordination dynos, which types of dynos hold their grades0:35:15 – How to grade a dyno, and categories of difficulty0:41:01 – Mattias’ 8C dyno project, and having his best year of climbing ever0:43:01 – Changing his mindset, and becoming more playful0:51:58 – Needing reference points to determine grades0:53:45 – Training for his 5-year dyno project1:00:10 – Dyno technique, and breaking down the move1:04:19 – Right-handed 8A dynos in Rocklands, and the morpho nature of dynos1:08:36 – Nobody trains legs, how much Mattias weighs, and how increasing his leg strength helped his overall climbing1:11:11 – Getting hit by a van, and how rehab made him stronger1:13:36 – Why he was so psyched to send ‘Caroline’ 7C+1:16:16 – Other trip highlights, and why lumbrical injuries have become more common1:23:55 – Being a sub-max comfortable guy, and not needing to do projects right now1:27:15 – Enjoying the chossy lowball, and letting go of pressure to send the mega1:32:43 – Coercing Mattias to try ‘Black Shadow’ on his last day, and his level of fatigue at the end of the trip1:36:41 – Why the Basecamp boulder took so long to get developed1:37:43 – Spraying the tick list1:42:45 – The key to having the best trip of your life1:43:49 – Aligning your inspiration with your ability1:46:27 – Is it possible to climb near your potential after 2 months in Rocklands?1:49:45 – Starting his business ClimberCare1:54:47 – Studying to become a doctor of PhysioTherapy, and his evolution as a climber1:57:46 – Wobblers2:03:34 – Ethan’s punt on ‘Rodan’ 33/8c/5.14b in Waterval Boven2:07:00 – Self-deprecation and kindness2:10:02 – Drawing inspiration from the mutants2:11:21 – V14 goals2:15:50 – Better yeet your meaties

Nic Rummel is an applied mathematician and expert boulderer. Ethan Pringle joins as co-host for another fun episode from Rocklands. We talked about embracing his nickname “Thick Nic”, lessons from working with Matt Fultz, sending V13 crimp boulders at 185 lbs, epic math projects, taking ballet to practice movement, the keys to a good spray wall, go-to hangboard protocols for epic finger strength, how lifting weights led to his best trip ever, finding mentorship in an 80-year-old climbing legend, and much more!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nic-rummelNuggets:0:06:39 – Test, test, testing…0:08:24 – How Thique Nic got his nickname, and embracing the body you’re given0:15:02 – Viking-built, trucks vs. Mazdas0:17:43 – Working with Matt & Hailey (Franklin) Fultz, and the confidence that comes with hitting strength benchmarks0:20:39 – Everyone wants to be like someone else, and being proud of the climber you’ve become0:23:29 – I’m on one, training for his local project in Fort Collins CO, and why he had such a successful trip to Rocklands0:30:08 – Deloading, Nic’s job in missile tracking and detection, and going back to school for a graduate degree0:35:23 – Needing more rest now that he is in school0:36:14 – Nic’s longest boulder project vs. his math problem0:41:29 – Applied math vs. pure math0:46:00 – The math problem that took Nic the longest to solve0:49:01 – Finding better beta on the JABE problem0:54:06 – Mathing vs. bouldering, comparison, and balancing multiple passions0:58:49 – Having a physical goal, an artistic goal, and an intellectual goal1:00:04 – Artistic outlets, and making an art film1:02:13 – Ballet1:11:32 – Nic’s crimping journey1:16:29 – Beating Matt Fultz to the 200 lb OTG, doing 58 pullups in a minute, and getting confidence from metrics1:21:19 – Nic’s crimping journey continued, and long-term hangboard training1:24:32 – Nic’s key takeaways from reading Ned Feehally’s book Beastmaking1:26:07 – Doing a hangboarding workout before trying your project, and adapting over time1:27:53 – Nic’s go-to hangboard protocols1:32:09 – Nic’s top hangboard recommendation that he got from Will Anglin1:34:15 – Nic’s thoughts on training micros1:35:53 – When to do the Will Anglin workout, and doing long-duration hangs as part of his warmup1:37:34 – Being warmup kings, and training less than usual1:41:05 – Ethan’s feelings1:42:41 – Nic’s secret crimp project, and doing the stand to Andramada1:44:41 – Working on climbing movement, and how he set up his home wall to work on his weaknesses1:47:56 – How the home wall facilitated community, and buying his house in Fort Collins1:51:54 – The evolution of Nic’s home wall, and why he doesn’t like big holds on boards1:56:04 – Ethan tries to convince Nic to try Scorsese 5.14c in the Poudre1:57:45 – Setting as a creative outlet, and what he wishes he could change about his home wall2:00:07 – Why Nic doesn’t recommend using T-nuts on a home wall2:02:15 – Using electric scooters to get to Lincoln Lake2:09:06 – Ethan hates on CO alpine bouldering, and the boys compare it to Eldo and the Flatirons2:13:59 – How Nic ended up in Boulder, living on Paul’s land, and renovating his trailer2:23:22 – Showering, splitting time between the trailer and his house, and having Paul as a mentor2:28:54 – Wanting to feel like a badass, and finding balance2:32:30 – Feeling content with his trip, getting sick, and sending Sky V132:35:59 – Lifting weights to keep up with his sister2:38:02 – Taking measurements of his body, and how he’s changed over the years2:39:04 – Nic’s brother, his siblings’ climbing, and a lesson from powerlifting2:43:54 – Dream climbs, plans to try more V14s, and why he got hurt on his project2:47:58 – Music City Hot Chicken2:48:34 – Go-to breakfast2:49:37 – Go-to climbing shoes2:52:17 – Climbing in Red Feather2:53:07 – Trap music2:54:31 – Obtaining big goals2:56:55 – Ethan talks about Nic’s send of Airstar V132:58:41 – Wrap up

Jenn DeBellis is an elite-level boulderer and software engineer. We sat down in Rocklands and talked about her biggest lessons from childhood gymnastics and collegiate athletics, trying V13s in Magic Wood and Rocklands, getting comfortable with failure, learning to embrace her style, her elaborate warmup routine, how she plans her 6-week training cycles, her role with KAYA, tips for sustaining a full-time job on the road, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jenn-debellisNuggets:0:04:57 – Bugs and SAT words0:06:39 – Jenn’s gymnastics background, and pole vaulting in college0:11:12 – Paying attention to the best qualities in our friends0:13:15 – Tough coaches, and learning to be tough on herself0:15:00 – Being comfortable with failure, and Jenn’s Olympic aspirations in gymnastics0:19:26 – Setting the scene0:20:09 – Getting inspired by Ray of Light V13, and Jenn’s initial goals for her trip to Rocklands0:22:24 – The breakdown of Ray of Light, and the standards in Rocklands0:24:10 – V10 and 8A, and the decision to try really hard and inspiring things0:26:30 – The 8a leaderboard, and shift her philosophy to chase dream boulders0:30:50 – My new shoe mod for Black Shadow0:34:08 – Getting excited about “sending” crux moves, and turning small wins into big wins0:35:59 – Trying beyond limit boulders, and making tradeoffs0:40:21 – Jenn and I compare our experiences with Black Shadow and Ray of Light, and share takeaways0:48:00 – The climbers we’ve learned from, and the truth about people who climb hard0:51:04 – Owning your style, not falling into the pitfall of trying to copy your peers, and trying Full Throttle V13 in Hueco0:57:23 – How living on the road has changed my perception of climbing, and different ways you can express difficulty in climbing0:59:06 – Working on her strengths and supplementing her weaknesses1:01:20 – Thinking about her training in checkboxes1:03:14 – Not knowing where home is, and having many homes on the road1:08:28 – Jenn’s lifestyle, leaving her PhD program to live in a van1:15:05 – How Jenn balances indoor training and outdoor performance1:17:49 – How she plans her training cycles, and using autoregulation to ramp up after a trip1:21:29 – “Injury is the enemy.”1:22:12 – How Jenn balances her climbing life with a full-time remote job1:23:46 – Life is 30% less efficient on the road1:25:49 – Tips for finding cheap rent in cities1:26:54 – The dirtbag mindset, how to make working on the road sustainable1:31:13 – How Jenn structures a 6-week training block, and the key ingredients in her training1:33:07 – Weight lifting, and cutting out accessory exercises1:35:07 – Board climbing, and how to train for something like Full Throttle1:36:46 – Jenn’s long-ass climbing warmup1:40:21 – The different stages of Jenn’s warmup1:41:28 – Keeping training and outdoor trips separate1:43:45 – Improving year on year1:44:54 – Upcoming trips and goals, and training 4x4s on her home wall1:47:53 – KAYA, Jenn’s role on the engineering team, and her passion for her work1:54:44 – Favorite rock type, and thinking better on granite1:57:08 – Ultimate dream climbs, and meaningful first female ascents1:59:34 – Joe’s Valley doughnuts2:01:11 – Kodiak Cakes2:02:06 – Go-to climbing shoes2:02:17 – Jenn’s connection to Joe’s Valley, and how she became a software engineer2:05:02 – Desert Island DVDs2:06:31 – Hype music2:08:27 – Best decision she’s ever made, and how long she sees herself living this lifestyle2:11:42 – Thoughts about having a family and drawing inspiration from strong moms2:12:42 – What Jenn wishes people spent less time thinking about2:14:25 – Building out her van2:17:36 – Toying with the idea of bringing back blogs2:19:45 – Wrapping up in the dark

Carlos Tkacz returns and is joined by his partner Steph Letourneau for a sitdown here in Rocklands. We talked about their diet habits, lessons from their 7 trips to Rocklands, learning to try harder, comparison games, respecting the difficulty of climbing, being good at being consistent, balancing your carbon footprint, making the most of a climbing trip to South Africa, writing novels, and much more!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingCarlos's Previous Episode:EP 58: Carlos TkaczShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carlos-and-stephNuggets:0:03:36 – Breakfast and food habits0:06:24 – Trading climbing days with your partner0:08:48 – Resting more to climb harder0:11:01 – 7 trips to Rocklands apiece, and how to make long flights better0:13:12 – Teaching and going back to school0:19:01 – Why Carlos and Steph keep coming back to Rocklands year after year0:21:23 – Steph’s experience on her first trip to Rocklands, and why both of them prefer bouldering to trad climbing0:28:01 – Describing Rocklands’ style, Carlos’ first 8B ‘Monkey Business', and learning to try harder0:33:10 – Steph’s lesson in trying hard, practicing her yell in the car, and getting hyped on Adele0:37:21 – Carlos' experience watching a guy yell in Thailand, Coach Carlos, and asking if people want feedback0:39:50 – Steph’s send of ‘Ghost in the Darkness’ 7C/+, and trying ‘Caroline’ 7C+0:43:02 – Carlos’ tick list from the trip, sending ‘Airstar’ 8B, and reconnecting with the joy of climbing0:46:16 – What helped Carlos change his mindset, and sending ‘Into the Void’ 8B0:50:01 – Sending ‘Airstar’, and drawing inspiration from “the kids”0:52:36 – Favorite Rocklands films0:57:21 – Struggling with comparison games, respecting the difficulty of climbing, and doing your best1:07:35 – Climbing is centralizing, and mental energy as a finite resource1:09:42 – Unpacking my feelings about not progressing quickly enough, and our American obsession with speed1:12:21 – Being good at being consistent1:14:12 – Dopamine hits vs. building relationships with climbs1:19:22 – Growing as a climber in Rocklands, and the stories we tell ourselves1:22:13 – My shift in mindset in Rocklands, and redefining a lifetime worth of climbing1:24:47 – Steph talks about how every season in Rocklands is a completely different experience1:27:02 – Getting the most out of the experience in South Africa, and learning about the place and its history and politics1:35:27 – Taking breaks from climbing to have other experiences1:41:53 – Planning the whole year around their Rocklands trips, and doing two 12-week training blocks1:45:47 – Teaching1:55:41 – Flying, carbon footprint, and how our brains make shortcuts2:06:29 – Being a park person, and how we’ve impacted nature2:09:26 – Steph’s thoughts on climate from a physics perspective, and trying to be carbon neutral on balance2:16:59 – Offsetting CO2 emissions2:20:44 – How they fit their 12-week training blocks into a school semester2:23:27 – The Training Trip, and building a community in Vegas2:28:59 – Nesting and baby fever2:33:04 – Training Weight, and the commitment to family2:36:16 – Carlos’ new book list2:40:31 – Speculative fiction2:42:09 – Carlos’ latest book projects, and Steph’s first novel2:45:59 – Carlos’ horror film2:48:19 – Steph’s new book project, and where to find her first book2:49:54 – Publishing a book2:53:04 – The feedback Steph got from her publisher2:54:58 – The Day You Became A Better Writer by Scott Adams2:56:23 – Having a family, ‘Sky’ as the final boss of the 8Bs, and making the horror movie2:58:24 – Enjoying the process2:59:40 – What’s next?

It’s another Northeast takeover in Rocklands! Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast and is joined by Adam Shahar, and brothers Noah and Benn Wheeler. Ethan Pringle joins us and keeps the fire stoked for this unhinged six-person podcast. The lads gave us the tick list from their first ten days in Rocklands, and we geeked out about board training, favorite FAs, and ultimate dream boulders and routes. Tune in for a dose of fun and inspiration with these young crushers!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-adam-noah-bennNuggets:0:04:26 – Izzo’s legendary ascent of Eternia in Upper Chaos, and debating whether V12 or 1200 in chess is harder0:09:15 – Youth worlds and these boys trips outdoors0:14:47 – Charlie’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:19:06 – Adam’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:26:21 – The boys' skin0:29:22 – Noah’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:34:01 – Ben’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)0:37:20 – Charlie’s coach role on the trip0:38:21 – Remaining Rocklands goals, and goals back home0:40:46 – Noah’s first weekend of outdoor bouldering, and Benn’s worn-out Nikes0:42:56 – Getting hooked0:51:47 – Home crags in the Northeast0:55:16 – V17 monsters, and futuristic projects0:57:11 – College plans, and projects in the South Platte0:58:41 – Brother dynamics1:00:45 – Sponsorships in climbing vs other sports1:02:38 – Is there V17 potential in the Northeast?1:04:06 – Plans to try established V16s1:09:23 – Boulders the boys struggled with, and Charlie’s big win on Mooiste Meisei1:16:37 – Favorite boulders in Rocklands, Troy’s send of Black Shadow, and plans to return for Livin’ Large and The Finnish Line1:21:09 – How the Wheeler boys are different, and Benn’s World Cup aspirations1:24:24 – Noah’s finger strength1:26:16 – Board gods1:34:33 – Board grades vs. Rocklands grades1:37:38 – Noah’s experience of gaining finger strength and risking injury on the Moonboard1:38:51 – Using the hangboard for rehab and testing1:40:17 – Nationals, and comp specialists1:42:04 – Is board climbing the key to climbing hard on rock?1:42:43 – Adam’s weaknesses1:43:26 – Noah’s weaknesses1:46:52 – Winning with your strengths and not losing because of your weaknesses1:49:37 – Benn’s weaknesses1:52:37 – Adam’s proudest FAs1:54:14 – Noah’s proudest FAs1:56:03 – Another proud FA from Adam1:57:34 – Benn’s proudest FAs1:59:23 – Charlie’s proudest FAs2:01:36 – Ethan’s FA of Wet Dream when he was 172:06:29 – Ethan’s proudest highball FA, and other highballs in Bishop2:08:13 – Ethan’s big wall FA in Greenland in 20122:09:33 – My FA of Pale Horse2:10:49 – Ultimate dream boulders (and routes)2:18:05 – Sport climbing aspirations2:19:24 – Three more goals each2:24:07 – Airstar2:26:05 – Ethan and I share our three goals for our remaining time in Rocklands2:32:16 – These boys are the future

It’s a Northeast takeover here in Rocklands! Austin Hoyt returns to the podcast and is joined by Troy Fauteux and Bryce Viola. The boys sat down with me and Ethan Pringle for a fireside chat at our cabin. These guys are all total crushers and most importantly, they have a lot of fun. Join us for a crackling good time!Huge thank you to Liam Andrews-Bancroft for the incredible music at the end of this episode.Troy's Video:Pawtuckaway Bouldering - Warrior V3Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAustin's Previous Episode:EP 97: Austin HoytShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/troy-austin-bryceNuggets:0:07:13 – Flipping cars and stealing clothes0:12:00 – “Brad… it's, it’s bad.”0:18:15 – Troy’s top 3 most scary climbing experiences0:26:26 – Plans for Tuesday and Monkey Wedding0:28:13 – Living Large and Finish Line0:31:13 – Progress on Monkey Wedding, and Austin’s longest project0:32:43 – Austin’s efforts on Lucid Dreaming, and Alex Megos taping video0:35:13 – Quintessential and Industry of Cool0:38:25 – Bryce’s trip so far0:39:52 – Favorite zones in Rocklands0:43:24 – Pure, and how fast the level is changing0:45:36 – Highlights from Rocklands, and having fun0:48:59 – Industry of Cool, hiking 300+ miles to send The Nest, and unfinished business in Spain0:52:45 – Sport climbing aspirations, and Max Zolotukhin falling off of Super Nova while trying to free solo it0:58:17 – Challenging access, and do New England climbers have more fun?1:02:03 – Potential and rock quality in the NE, and Bryce’s job1:09:07 – Troy’s job detailing cars, and climbing in West Virginia1:11:32 – Austin’s tick list1:14:14 – The variety of styles in Rocklands, and toe hook training1:16:48 – How long everyone has been climbing, and the BMX connection1:20:02 – The new crop of young talent1:24:42 – Most recent comps, and the shorter shelf life of top-level competitors1:29:41 – Ultimate dream boulders1:31:31 – Trying climbs way above and below your level, and the V15 goal1:34:49 – Ethan’s goal to find 5.15 in the Sierra Nevada, and the rarity of all-natural hard routes1:38:01 – Choss and rain and Hueco, and Ethan’s top 3 favorite bouldering areas1:41:30 – Almost dying on the topout of The Mandala1:42:58 – “Dad I’m bread. ”1:44:31 – Will we climb until we die?1:45:57 – Mystery climbs in Rocklands1:48:18 – The drunk comp, and the Anchorman of climbing1:51:59 – The Lifetime Project guy1:53:44 – Milkshakes and final goals for the trip1:57:28 – Airstar getting action1:58:51 – Ethan’s most epic bat hangs1:59:58 – Austin’s send of Direct North2:01:00 – Near misses

Cat Runner is the winner of the HBO show The Climb. Cat sat down with me and Ethan Pringle at our cabin here in Rocklands to talk about what his life has looked like after The Climb, his experience filming the show, the stereotypical trans narrative in the media, why he chooses to be visible, his ungendered childhood, gender roles in sports, why people feel threatened by trans or queer identities, dealing with trolls, owning your accomplishments, building the Queer Climber’s Network, Rocklands highlights, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/cat-runnerNuggets:0:04:44 – Cat’s tea situation0:07:53 – Ethan’s coffee addiction, and why he doesn’t drink it before doing something scary0:11:20 – The Queer Climbers’ Network0:16:15 – Life after winning The Climb0:22:23 – Finding community through climbing, and helping others find that too0:25:37 – Cat’s experience filming and watching the show0:28:54 – Being trans as part of Cat’s identity, and how that came across in the show0:30:38 – More behind the scenes, and what the climbing experience was like on the show0:32:15 – Meeting Jason Mamoa, and meme accounts0:34:14 – The reaction to the show, and getting messages from trans kids and their parents0:36:35 – The stereotypical trans narrative in the media, and pushing people into the role of spokesperson0:39:22 – Choosing to be visible, being proud of being trans, and seeing a future0:42:36 – Being who he needed when he was younger, and trying to change one person’s world0:44:14 – What Cat would have benefitted from as a kid, experiencing severe depression, and knowing he’s a part of the future0:46:36 – Reading The Alchemist, and having intimate connections with individual people0:51:43 – Cat’s childhood, transitioning within the binary, and how his gender identity has evolved0:58:14 – Connecting with he/him pronouns1:00:36 – Why people feel threatened by trans or queer identities, trolls, and the reaction to my video clip with Alayna Joy about climbing as a queer space1:07:30 – Why Cat is particular about who he climbs with1:10:28 – The trolliest of troll questions1:11:16 – People’s insecurities, and “we’re all performing”1:15:03 – Knowing when to give your energy to people, and leading with respect1:19:36 – “Trans people are humans”, and the stat that 80% of Americans have never met a person they know to be trans1:22:00 – An issue of isolation and ignorance1:25:16 – Hopeful conversations, anti-trans legislation, and false information about gender-affirming care1:27:56 – Cat’s parents1:31:50 – Gender roles and sports, and the gender gap in climbing1:38:25 – Height in climbing, the subjectivity of grades, and why outdoor rock climbing is so cool1:43:49 – Rapid Fire: Best decision1:44:19 – Rapid Fire: Most proud of1:49:09 – Rapid Fire: What frustrates you2:01:00 – Taking responsibility2:03:28 – “Take! Falling!”2:05:02 – Rapid Fire: Favorite rock type2:07:46 – Rapid Fire: Ultimate dream climb2:15:36 – Rapid Fire: Favorite send reward2:17:04 – Rapid Fire: Go-to climbing shoes2:23:00 – Rapid Fire: Desert Island DVD2:25:31 – Rapid Fire: Favorite album for a long drive2:28:49 – The one thing Cat wants people to know about trans stuff2:31:29 – Taking representation seriously, and how sharing human stories cracks people open2:38:17 – Doing your best, and sharing information with your circle2:44:30 – Cat’s ankle injury, and his tick list from Rocklands

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Ollie Torr returns to answer questions from Patrons! If you enjoyed my first episode with Ollie, don’t miss this Follow-Up. We discussed critical force and how to measure and improve it, tips for training endurance at home, training for overhangs with limited resources, the power of expectations, balancing multiple sports, BMI and performance, identifying weaknesses, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:49:54.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingOllie’s Original Episode:EP 153: Ollie Torr

Ethan Pringle is back on the podcast! We talked about our first few weeks in Rocklands, the style of climbing here, his plans to try Monkey Wedding 8C, nemesis boulders, micromanaging holds, two habits that Ethan does every day, taking your time while executing hard moves, adjusting on holds, and Ethan talked about his dad’s life after his stroke, his final weeks, and his passing on November 6, 2022.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasEthan’s Other Episodes:EP 21: Ethan Pringle (Jun 2020)Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle (Oct 2020)EP 44: Steven Dimmitt (feat. Ethan Pringle) (Nov 2020)A Call from Ethan (Jul 2021)Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ethan-pringle-returnsNuggets:0:03:49 – Princess Pringle0:06:13 – Rocklands Trip update0:11:24 – Feeling fit for bouldering after sport climbing0:14:14 – Ethan’s haphazard approach, and following the psych0:20:04 – Monkey Wedding (8C/V15)0:21:43 – Being surprised at the tactics of some really strong climbers0:24:03 – Rapid firing dynamic moves0:26:09 – The style of climbing in Rocklands0:32:37 – Bonus cruxes and nemesis rigs (Black Mango Chutney and Dangle)0:40:20 – Munchy holds0:41:12 – Micromanaging holds0:44:56 – Pause0:45:57 – Ethan-ism #1: Rolling out0:48:33 – Ethan-ism #2: Drinking lots of water0:51:03 – The lacrosse ball, and lubricated tendons0:54:00 – The injurious style of Rocklands0:55:54 – Ethan-ism #3: “Take your time.”1:03:12 – Perfectionism and being detail oriented, and accessing beast mode1:07:12 – Wanting moves to feel good, and committing when they’re not1:08:39 – More about the style in Rocklands, and funky moves1:10:02 – Adjusting on holds, and Adam Ondra on Perfecto Mundo and La Dura Dura1:15:18 – His dad’s stroke1:20:12 – Ethan’s sleeping injury1:26:08 – His dad’s quality of life in the final years of his life1:33:10 – Honoring his dad, which parts of Ethan feel most like him, and how his dad didn’t how to process and talk about feelings1:39:22 – How Ethan developed his emotional intelligence, and giving space to other people’s thoughts and feelings1:44:21 – A shared life philosophy1:47:58 – The loniless of thinking your inner messiness isn’t ok1:49:11 – What made Ethan feel the best when his dad passed away1:53:46 – His dad’s passing on November 6th, 20222:03:19 – Living2:06:22 – Thinking about the future2:10:10 – Goals and evolution2:12:39 – Inspiration, the unpleasant nature of hard rock climbing, and Seb on Bibliographie2:16:59 – Goals for the rest of the Rocklands trip2:19:07 – Plans to do trip updates, and my first two weeks in Rocklands2:22:57 – Indoor camping vibes, and plans for the podcast

Tiba Vroom is a Dutch professional climber and cofounder of Wildflower Climbing Gym. We talked about the pressure that comes with early success, her first trip to Magic Wood and sending Riverbed 8B, confronting fear of failure, separating self-worth from performance, being the 8, starting a non-profit gym in the Netherlands, taking responsibility for your life, dream climbs in Fontainebleau, and more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tiba-vroomNuggets:0:02:28 – Tiba’s first tattoo, and her first season in Magic Wood0:05:47 – Climbing as a mirror, and learning to confront the deeper parts of herself0:07:30 – Projecting Riverbed 8B, and confronting fear of failure0:12:59 – Tiba’s introduction to climbing, performance pressure, and expecting to be the best0:17:08 – We only hear the success stories0:19:38 – Working through fear of failure, mental training, and separating self-worth from performance0:24:34 – Consciousness, positivity, personal development, and power0:25:48 – The 6, the 8, and the 100:28:30 – Why it doesn’t make sense for most of us to compare ourselves to the best climbers in the world, and Tiba’s experience competing in her first World Cup0:31:16 – Tiba’s current feelings about competitions0:32:48 – How to prepare for an outdoor bouldering trip in the gym0:40:45 – Planning trips around the weather, and drying holds on Octopussy with Tiba0:42:19 – Stretching for 2+ months to be able to try a heal hook on her project0:49:40 – The gym climbing culture in the Netherlands, and starting Wildflower Climbing came to be0:53:10 – Creating a space for high-performance climbing that is welcoming to a wide diversity of people0:56:31 – Having a non-profit gym1:03:32 – Question from Lizzie: What is it like owning a gym in the Netherlands where gym ownership is fairly male-dominated?1:05:15 – Tiba’s favorite things to teach1:08:25 – A recent breakthrough1:09:22 – What she wishes she had known before building the gym1:10:49 – What excites Tiba about the climbing scene right now1:12:24 – How sports highlight social issues1:14:06 – Women who have inspired Tiba1:16:16 – Taking responsibility for your life, and the ultimate climbing goal1:19:56 – What Tiba is working on in her climbing, and working on being the 81:21:28 – Summer training and projects1:22:18 – “The world can use more conscious people.”1:28:04 – My birthday, and the Women’s Bouldering Festival in Font1:30:49 – How to connect with Tiba, and her new podcast

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Dave MacLeod is back on the podcast! We talked about lessons from his latest diet experiments, his motivation for only eating Mcdonald's patties for two months, the effects that nutrition has on mental health, common nutrient deficiencies, LDL cholesterol and cardiovascular risk, his favorite tea, what he learned from doing the Lattice Assessment with Ollie Torr, his goal to climb 9a+ sport, why he no longer travels abroad, setting finger strength PRs after 18+ years of hangboarding, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:13:42.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingDave’s Other Episodes:EP 56: Dave MacLeod (Part 1)EP 57: Dave MacLeod (Part 2)

Eric Hörst is back on the podcast! We talked about his upcoming road trip,  fitting in training around work, sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c at age 59, motivation as the ultimate wildcard, autoregulation and tracking how you feel, what to do when you have a bad training day, and the top 7 most common training mistakes climbers make. Listen to Eric’s original two-part episode:EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1)EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2)Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-returnsNuggets:0:03:21 – A wet Spring, and broken holds0:06:43 – Preparing for a long road trip, working on the road, and current work projects0:08:21 – Self-coaching, and figuring out what works for you0:09:19 – Fitting in training around work, cramming before a trip, and maintaining vs. growing a business0:14:02 – Sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c (8a+) at age 59, and how climbing standards are changing0:18:33 – The normalization of hard climbing, burnout in kids, and motivation as the ultimate wild card0:23:57 – Why Eric wanted to cover training mistakes0:32:04 – Training Mistake #1: Going to the gym and not having an intelligent plan of action0:37:21 – Autoregulation, doing the same warmup every session to check in, and tracking how you felt0:42:04 – When to pivot vs. when to stick to the plan0:45:47 – Training Mistake #2: Every training session is a competition with yourself0:50:24 – Bad days happen0:54:26 – Training Mistake #3: Cramming in your training before a weekend or trip0:57:14 – Training Mistake #4: Engaging in inappropriate training while injured1:10:42 – Nutrition for injury prevention1:14:01 – Training Mistake #5: Following someone else’s training plan1:25:36 – Training Mistake #6: Training your strengths but ignoring your weaknesses1:31:06 – A physical and a mental weakness that Eric is working on in his own climbing1:36:10 – Training Mistake #7: Doing everything right at the gym but getting sleep and nutrition wrong1:43:04 – The wisdom of the current generation of young climbers, stress, and the iPhone trap1:51:02 – Wrap up

Ady Wright is a climbing instructor and routesetter based in New York. We met up in Red Rock and recorded a nice long chat in the van, covering her introduction to climbing and routesetting, why she pivoted from veterinary science, being raised by a cautious father, analyzing risk, the benefits of meal prepping, losing her grandmother to cancer, the pressure that comes with opportunity, the rebellious act of existing, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ady-wrightNuggets:0:03:56 – Ady’s breakfast, and serendipitous timing0:05:56 – Ady’s first vacation, and how an outdoor climbing trip fuels routesetting0:13:04 – Her head setter Ryan, and earning her stripes0:18:16 – Learning to set above her level, the complexity of grades, and setting boulders vs. routes0:24:32 – Studying veterinary science, wanting to be a zoo veterinarian, and pivoting to be a full-time climber0:33:03 – Being the first in her family to do many things0:36:58 – Going camping for the first time, and a reminder of how recent slavery was in this country0:40:56 – Going with the flow, and everything in moderation0:44:45 – The benefits of meal prepping0:46:02 – Being hard on herself, and sharing experiences with people that look like her0:49:53 – My conversation with Brittany Leavitt, travel safety, and where the feeling of not doing enough comes from0:54:24 – The pressure that comes with opportunity0:59:22 – Losing her grandmother to cancer, and crying for the things she didn’t get to have1:01:01 – The influence Ady hopes to have on the routesetting industry, and how being cautious has saved her1:06:06 – Privilege layers, and needing to talk with people to actually know them1:09:29 – Writing novels and producing music1:10:57 – Mom1:19:00 – A question from Marie-Louise: When Ady climbs, is she in her body or is it more of an out-of-body experience?1:24:11 – Who inspires Ady in climbing and routesetting1:28:17 – Ady’s goal to make routsetting more accessible1:31:20 – Ady’s climbing goals, and her style1:34:32 – Being intimidated by overhangs1:35:57 – Immersing in a specific style1:37:40 – Lifting weights, and the 3 pieces of advice Ady got from Tyson Schoene1:41:15 – The exercise that helped Ady with her elbow tendonitis1:46:50 – Gymnast tension, and the yin and yang of climbing1:48:26 – PT Day, splits, and recovery1:52:06 – “It’s really expensive to be a great athlete”, and running from coyotes1:54:23 – Thoughts on sponsorship1:58:08 – Stories of walking in New York City2:01:00 – Being in the shelter system for a year2:06:38 – Loving most of New York2:09:18 – What frustrates Ady2:13:39 – Feeling hopeful and falling in love with people2:17:07 – Skateboarding2:19:50 – Getting mentorship from Sam Elias, and learning from each climb2:24:47 – Practice makes better2:29:38 – Believe and validate2:32:58 – The clubhouse

Bernd Zangerl a bouldering legend from Austria. We talked about his early climbing and making the 2nd ascent of Dreamtime, some of his proudest FAs, how he recovered from a career-ending injury in 2016, his mindset for highballs, meditation and the power of the mind, believing in love, our impact as climbers, sustainability, and discovering world-class bouldering in the Himalayas.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/bernd-zangerlNuggets:0:04:02 – Where we each are in the world, and Bernd’s travels to the US0:05:15 – Magic Wood, and the impact climbers have on the environment0:08:02 – How to pronounce Bernd’s name0:08:53 – Bernd’s background in climbing, a near miss in the mountains, and falling in love with bouldering0:13:21 – The impossibility and culture of bouldering0:15:00 – “Bouldering is the kindergarten, but also the pinnacle of climbing.”0:16:50 – Dreamtime (8C), and learning about hard boulders by reading magazines0:21:25 – Reducing boulders to each single move, and holding positions for training0:24:41 – The bouldering culture in the early 2000s0:27:29 – Finding the most pure motivation in finding and developing new boulders0:29:22 – Spending eight years and 1000+ tries to send First Try (8B+)0:34:02 – What he learned from First Try0:38:56 – Nalle on Burden of Dreams, and the randomness of bouldering0:39:43 – Sending La Proue (8B) in Cresciano, and lightness of the heart0:41:20 – Openness of the heart, Buddhism, and believing in love and the good things of life0:42:57 – Bernd’s childhood, and why traveling is important to him0:44:29 – Traveling with Fred Nicole to Hueco Tanks and Rocklands0:48:00 – Feeling and knowing0:49:41 – Developing boulders in the Himalayas, and finding Rakchham0:57:17 – Why Bernd decided to publish a film about Rakchham, and what it’s like to travel there1:04:06 – Sustainability1:08:39 – How internet changed traveling1:10:34 – Disconnecting1:11:52 – Shangri-La1:13:29 – Working on a guidebook for Rakchham, when to go, and plans to go back1:16:04 – Getting the locals interested in climbing1:20:41 – Bernd’s projects in Rakchham, and the potential and rock types1:25:06 – Doing the FA of Shantaram in Norway1:34:05 – Patron question from Simon, and Bernd’s serious injury in 20161:39:41 – The healing power of the mind1:42:31 – Into the Sun, and Bernd’s headspace for highballs1:50:39 – 29 Dots (14m/45’ highball)1:58:45 – More about his recovery from his injury, and connecting of the East and the West2:03:53 – Bernd’s advice, and brushing2:07:47 – Bernd’s diet and lifestyle2:10:39 – Meditation2:14:59 – Bernd’s unique approach to warming up and finger training2:23:50 – Shake, shake the body2:25:31 – Being pulled into the present

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Hazel Findlay is back on the podcast to talk about her new course, Performance Hacks. We talk about her top 3 performance hacks, the goal of the course, and Patrons can get a 10% discount code and hear Hazel share some recommendations for me as I try to send my project here in Switzerland.Join the Early-Bird Waitlist for Performance Hacks:go.strongmindclimbing.com/early-birdBecome a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:11:03.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingHazel’s Other Episodes:EP 81: Hazel Findlay (Aug 9, 2021)Reflections Series (for $10 and up Patrons!)

Louis Parkinson is a London-based climber and coach and is one of the best in the world at teaching dynamic movement. We talked about the benefits of indoor climbing, how practicing comp-style boulders can help your rock climbing, sending his first 8B in Magic Wood, timing your breathing with hard moves, skill drills for experienced climbers, how to break down dynamic movements, cultivating confidence, and much more!Apply for a job at Easy Expense!Click Here to ApplyLearn more: easy-expense.comCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/louis-parkinsonNuggets:0:04:10 – The culture of indoor climbing0:06:45 – The benefits of climbing indoors, and Louis’ success on short outdoor trips0:10:27 – Rehabbing my bicep tendon injury in the gym, and what I noticed on the rock afterward0:13:55 – London0:15:24 – A week in the life of Louis Parkinson0:20:52 – Beginners try hard0:24:38 – Efficiency, and dancing vs wrestling0:30:18 – How did Louis get the nickname Captain Cutloose?0:34:16 – Louis’ first trip to Magic Wood, and sending the Foxy Lady dyno (7C?)0:38:56 – Riverbed 8B (V13), and his amazing tick list for the trip0:43:30 – Comparing ourselves to our previous bests0:48:04 – How to time your breathing with your climbing0:55:20 – Practicing new skills medium intensity climbs0:58:05 – How Louis thinks about practicing skills1:01:50 – Skill Drill: Sticky hands sticky feet1:06:25 – The Moonboard and Brad Pitt1:08:20 – Skill Drill: Body awareness and understanding compromises1:15:20 – Skill Drill: Using momentum1:17:28 – My experience on Burl Master 5.13c (8a+), and learning about contextual difficulty1:21:05 – Risk, Intensity, and Complexity1:23:47 – How practicing modern comp-style boulders can help your rock climbing1:29:10 – Jan Hojer flashing Jack’s Broken Heart 8A+1:36:22 – How to break down dynamic moves into smaller pieces1:40:18 – Forgetting the details and going for it1:41:58 – The Inner Game of Tennis1:47:17 – How Louis spends his limited climbing time these days1:52:04 – Cultivated confidence1:58:06 – Being intensional with your language2:02:36 – Growth mindset2:04:34 – Wrap up

Brittany Leavitt is a climber, backpacker, educator, and the co-founder and CEO of Brown Girls Climb (BGC). We talked about Brittany’s climbing origin story, her unique family upbringing, unmasking and educating about race, teaching kids at the Smithsonian, the mission of BGC, creating more accessible spaces, lessons from her first road trip, using TikTok to stay informed, climbing goals, inspiration, and much more.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brittany-leavittNuggets:0:05:20 – Working from home, and having a home office0:07:38 – Why hasn’t Brittany taken the leap to traveling and climbing full-time while working remotely0:10:20 – Being within community, and Brittany’s dream of part-time vanlife0:15:15 – Brittany’s climbing origin story0:20:24 – Outdoor Afro0:21:04 – Brittany’s unique family dynamic, and having accessibility to the outdoors0:24:06 – Unmasking, adoption as a trauma experience, and educating her family0:31:00 – Protecting your own energy, giving space, and knowing when it’s worth it to argue with someone0:34:25 – Family holiday recitals, and Brittany’s guitars0:37:45 – The crossover of art and climbing, and singing around the campfire0:40:12 – Wanting to be an educator, and teaching at the Smithsonian0:46:33 – Musical theater with the kids0:50:01 – Learning patience and empathy from working with kids0:52:05 – Teaching life lessons through climbing, and working with community kids0:54:15 – How to decide what to say yes to, and passing ideas on to someone else0:58:25 – How Brown Girls Climb got started, and what it has become1:06:26 – The mission of Brown Girls Climb1:07:21 – What it feels like to have a space with people who share your experience1:15:09 – Patron question from Adam: How can we make climbing events (like the Rendezspew and International Climbers Festival) more accessible to diverse communities?1:24:11 – Brittany’s road trip to Bishop and Red Rocks in 2019, and writing a piece for Patagonia1:30:27 – What Brittany wishes she had known before the trip, planning which gas stations to stop at, and safety considerations1:35:11 – Favorite non-climbing memories from the trip, visiting famous movie locations, and first-time van living1:41:55 – Doing her first highball boulder, and favorite climbing memories from her trip1:44:37 – Brittany’s advice for folks who want to go on their first climbing road trip1:50:01 – Brittany’s climbing goals in Rumney and The Gunks1:52:32 – Mountain climbing and adventure goals1:54:24 – Who inspires Brittany1:57:28 – What Brittany wishes people understood more and spent more time thinking about1:59:18 – Getting her news from TikTok2:05:17 – Wrap up and what’s next for Brittany

Leo Houlding is one of the greatest adventure climbers of all time. He’s put up new free routes worldwide from the Amazon Rainforest to the remote regions of Antarctica. We talked about his upcoming trip to Baffin Island, his childhood in the UK, using the fix-and-follow system to climb 2000’ big walls with his kids, epic stories from his El Cap days, what he learned from his worst injury, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/leo-houldingNuggets:0:02:54 – Prepping for his trip to Baffin Island0:07:16 – Enjoying the logistics, and planning the food for a month-long expedition for three people0:13:50 – Leo’s beta knowledge for expeditions, and going beyond roads0:16:01 – Leo’s “little issue”, and base jumping off the top of Mount Asgard0:23:56 – The challenge of attempting to free climb Asgard again0:27:29 – Leo’s Instagram cover photo0:29:16 – Writing his book, his mom and dad, and his adventurous spirit as a kid0:33:39 – Leo’s first big adventure climb, Old Man of Hoy0:37:24 – How his life has turned out compared to how he imagined it as a kid0:38:24 – Being born at the right time0:42:45 – Generations in Yosemite0:45:18 – “Climb that goddamn mountain.”0:49:49 – Adventuring with his kids0:53:59 – Using the fix-and-follow system with the kids to climb big walls1:00:56 – Climbing in the Wind River Range with Llamas and the kids1:05:11 – Tips for keeping the morale high for kids1:13:13 – Compromises with kids, and plans to take them out of school for an around-the-world mission1:16:41 – “The days are long but the years are short.”1:17:10 – My travels with my family around South America as a 5-year-old, and seeing the developing world as a kid1:20:34 – A final tip for parents who want to adventure with kids1:22:41 – Rest in peace Ammon McNeely ❤1:23:34 – The Alfa Romeo badge story1:35:41 – Question from Sam Stroh: What are Leo’s thoughts on going ground up on The Prophet?1:42:51 – Getting caught in one of the worst storms in Yosemite history, and doing the first free ascent of The Prophet1:48:41 – Closer to the Edge1:49:29 – The end of his Yosemite chapter1:52:03 – Leo’s accident on Cerro Torre1:56:41 – Leo’s expeditions to Antarctica2:02:11 – Kite skiing2:07:11 – Rock climbing at the end of the world2:08:42 – “I wanted the most hardcore trip ever, and I got it.”2:09:52 – His trip to the Amazon rainforest, and making The House of the Gods film2:13:58 – Dropping loads out of an airplane into the rainforest2:18:21 – Free climbing a new route on Mount Roraima2:20:31 – More about Leo’s book Closer to the Edge, and the film 2.4 about adventuring with kids2:23:35 – Why we should travel to the developing world2:24:41 – Wrap up

An interesting conversation with Ron Kauk. Enjoy :)Donate to Sacred Rok:sacredrok.orgSupport the Nugget and Sacred Rok:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingRon's Other Episodes:EP 69: Ron Kauk (May 17, 2021)Follow-Up: Ron Kauk (Jul 29, 2021) 

Karly Rager is back on the podcast and is joined by Casey Elliott to talk about the factors that affect climbing performance. We’ve got three engineers in one podcast, and we geek out on the data! Do things like weight, height, and ape index affect how hard you can climb? Is max finger strength more important than days spent climbing outside? Listen to find out!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget60Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/karly-and-caseyNuggets:0:06:18 – Karly’s time in El Salto, Mexico0:09:39 – Casey joins us from a legit recording studio, his engineering studies, and coaching vs. engineering0:16:06 – An update from Karly on Project Direct, and how she got connected to Casey0:19:19 – Decision fatigue, and wearing lots of hats0:20:42 – Casey’s climbing and coaching background0:25:51 – Mikey Schaefer calls out Casey, and the connection between dating and projecting routes0:30:03 – What was the goal of this multi-variate statistical analysis?0:32:59 – What is a multivariate statistical analysis, and how does it work?0:40:09 – The 600 people whose data was used in this analysis, and getting away from statements like “I have 5.13 finger strength”0:49:12 – What % of climbers have climbed 5.13?0:50:56 – List of the variables used in this analysis0:53:45 – Casey’s simple model using three variables0:55:15 – How important is climbing outside vs. max finger strength?0:56:35 – Why climbing outside ended up being the most heavily weighted variable in the multivariate model0:59:10 – Higher-end statistics require interpretation1:00:47 – Check out their blog post and the climbing calculator!1:02:08 – Do height, weight, wing span, or BMI affect how hard you can climb?1:07:57 – Thoughts on how age affects how hard you can climb, and playing to your strengths as a short climber1:09:37 – What the data doesn’t tell us1:11:06 – The range of climbing abilities in the 600 participants1:12:36 – How the coefficient for max hangs turned out to be negative, and what that likely means1:18:08 – What should people spend their time on to get better at climbing?1:20:59 – How training can lead to expectations, and getting good before you get strong1:24:38 – Getting creative with skill drills1:25:34 – Watching climbing videos, and filming your Kilter Board sessions1:27:49 – Diving deeper into what you should do to climb harder boulders and sport routes1:32:06 – Looking for low-hanging fruit1:35:03 – How Karly used the online calculator before her trip to El Salto1:36:08 – How to use the online climbing calculator, and how to take the assessment1:39:34 – How many outdoor days does it take to be a master?1:42:35 – Injury prevention isn’t captured in the model1:43:41 – What variables would Karly and Casey like to see in their dream multi-variate statistical analysis?1:46:39 – What is Mikey Schafer up to?1:48:16 – Skiing this winter, and finishing his masters1:48:52 – The momentum that comes with doing hard things, and looking at high performers1:51:56 – Final thoughts and wrap up

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Steve Bechtel is back on the podcast for a deep dive into active recovery. We discuss what the research says about active vs. passive recovery, what methods work best, why it’s better than sitting on the couch on your rest days, and we also tackle the practical side of things and discuss realistic options for active recovery between burns at the crag, how to have active rest days without doing too much, what deload weeks should look like, and common pitfalls to avoid.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:30:02.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingSteve’s Other Episodes:EP 35: Steve Bechtel (Sept 14, 2020)Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel (Jan 21, 2021)Follow-Up #2: Steve Bechtel (Nov 11, 2021) 

Scott Johnston is a world-class coach who specializes in mountain endurance sports. This episode is a masterclass in training principles and is packed full of nuggets for climbers, including boulderers. We talked about why it’s a mistake to mimic top athletes, tips for balancing climbing with other sports, capacity vs. utilization, why to back off after a personal best, developing layers of endurance, the flaw with HRV, how to test your recovery before training, how to fail successfully, the future of alpinism and mountain running, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “NUGGET” for $10 off!I recommend the Progressor 150 for finger training and testing. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/scott-johnstonNuggets:0:04:56 – Inventing telescopes, and refurbishing European sports cars0:11:25 – Being a cross-country ski racer, climbing with Steve House, and getting into coaching0:13:22 – Why Scott and Steve decided to write Training for the New Alpinism0:15:30 – Partnering with Kilian Journett on a second book Training for the Uphill Athlete0:19:00 – The mistake of trying to mimic people like Killian Journett or Adam Ondra0:23:05 – Sound bites, the dumbing down of our attention spans, and applying traditional training methods to unconventional sports0:25:09 – Who is the Uphill Athlete book for?0:27:56 – Being a general outdoor athlete and a climber0:28:54 – Patron question from Alex: Tips for training for bouldering and sport climbing during ski season and vice versa?0:34:42 – Why more training isn’t always better0:37:39 – Building capacity, and why you rarely perform well while you’re training0:39:19 – Block periodization0:42:09 – Monitoring your recovery, using a hangboard to check in, and the restorative effect of easy aerobic activity0:46:59 – Capacity vs. utilization training0:54:26 – Training vs. randomly exercising0:57:16 – Fundamental qualities of sports, and building capacity in different qualities1:03:32 – Putting money in the bank vs. spending it1:07:18 – Why you should back off after you hit a PR in your training1:12:24 – Deloads1:16:40 – Non-linear periodization1:18:54 – The aerobic system, and the vacuum cleaner analogy1:25:54 – Developing layers of endurance1:27:52 – How and why boulderers and sport climbers should train endurance1:31:56 – More about the layers of endurance1:38:25 – My upcoming Follow-Up with Steve Bechtel,  why training needs to be more specific at higher levels, and how recovery makes you stronger1:41:33 – How important is active recovery?1:44:32 – The flaw with HRV for measuring recovery1:50:20 – Tuning in to your body, and how to test your level of fatigue1:53:34 – Using the Tindeq to test your finger strength before training (use code NUGGET for $10 off)1:56:47 – Why monitoring your progress leads to mental toughness2:03:19 – How to get the experience you need to climb technical mountains and alpine routes2:06:25 – The Dreaded Water Carries, and improving muscular endurance2:19:29 – How long and how often should our training blocks be?2:22:20 – Losing two climbing partners on K22:27:33 – How to fail successfully2:34:09 – Inventing challenges, and the essential parts of being human2:38:02 – Scott’s current outdoor lifestyle, and trying to slow the decline as aging athletes2:42:26 – Doing max strength to recover from hard endurance work2:46:15 – A teaser for how to increase your weighted pull-ups2:50:29 – Where to find Scott2:52:33 – What excites Scott the most about the future of alpinism and mountain running2:56:40 – Understanding training principles, and the key takeaway from this episode

Don McGrath is the author of Vertical Mind and an expert on mental training for climbing. We talked about the two simple diet changes he made to get back in shape in his 60s, our untapped potential in mental training, debunking and rewriting unhelpful scripts, how to tackle fear of falling and fear of failure, pre-climb rituals, how to use your climbing partner as a coach, how to stay in love with climbing as we age, duct tape and baling wire, embracing the suck, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/don-mcgrathNuggets:0:03:56 – The love/hate relationship to climbing in Rifle and Smith Rock0:07:49 – Living in Colorado Springs, spending the winter in the gym, and working with a coach0:08:52 – The two simple diet changes Don made to lose his “60-year-old belly”0:10:56 – Increasing his climbing volume, getting on harder routes in the gym, and the accountability of a coach0:12:31 – Whiskey time, habits, and alcohol substitutes0:16:16 – Turning 60, being retired, and setting the goal of climbing 5.12+/13- (7c/+) again after a decade0:18:07 – Don’s coach Kevin Branford0:20:40 – Don’s introduction to climbing, and how he became interested in writing and mental training0:27:27 – Shame Theory, and Fear of Failure0:30:43 – How the mental aspect of training is overlooked, and diving into movement, emotions, and thoughts0:34:03 – How to tackle fear of falling, scripts, working on one thing at a time, and the arsenal of uneventful falls0:39:16 – The story of the woman in The Gunks, and understanding irrational fear0:42:29 – Debunking scripts0:45:40 – The script that was holding Don back when he was one-hanging routes in Rifle0:47:49 – Don’s mantra, and “one move at a time”0:52:20 – Pre-climb ritual0:56:38 – Don’s first breakthrough with his mental game0:58:11 – Most common unproductive scripts1:04:23 – The best piece of onsighting advice I’ve gotten1:05:25 – Opening and closing your focus1:08:53 – What musical instruments and karate have to do with climbing1:10:30 – Warmups as a big missed opportunity1:13:56 – Cocreative coaching with your climbing partner1:17:43 – Shoulds elicit a shame response1:21:02 – Recommendations for couples who are also climbing partners1:23:25 – The area of mental game that I’ve been focused on, more about scripts, and breaking into new grades1:29:32 – Patron question from Gromstoph: Do you have any strategies for getting comfortable on a route more quickly?1:33:05 – “Just go find out.”1:37:29 – Patron question from Caden: Are there any ways to practice commitment with new moves when doing new climbs?1:40:37 – Main takeaway about mental training1:41:24 – How to love your sport as you age, play, and innovate1:46:24 – Why climbing is unique1:48:06 – Duct tape and baling wire1:49:40 – Don’s advice for those of us in our 20s and 30s1:51:52 – Socio-behavioral changes, and employing winning tactics1:54:28 – Don’s book The Climb1:56:38 – What’s the next book?1:57:15 – Don’s writing practice, and how a book develops a life of its own1:59:01 – Advice from Les Brown: “Every point should have a story, and every story should have a point.”2:00:41 – Have fun, enjoy the process, and embrace the suck2:03:30 – Getting inspiration from watching kids2:04:53 – Inspiration from good coaches, and the book Running With the Buffalo2:06:25 – What’s next?2:07:23 – Wrap up, and how to connect with Don

Have you listened to Climbing Gold?! The new season is here! Check out the first episode of the new season, and subscribe to Climbing Gold on your favorite podcast app for more great climbing stories. Enjoy :)In the 1970’s, no flame burned brighter than Hot Henry Barber. Often heralded as the first traveling climber, Henry redefined standards for free climbing and free soloing not just the US, but every country he visited. Along the way, he shattered egos before learning to check his own.Check out Climbing Gold!climbinggold.comInstagramListen on Apple PodcastsListen on Spotify   

Alex Honnold is on the podcast! Who? The guy that free handed Yellowstone? Close enough.  Seriously though, this was such a great interview. We talked about his two most epic solos that nobody heard about, near misses, lessons from other climbing legends like Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft, pooping while free soloing stories, how the film Free Solo exceeded his hopes and dreams, the commitment to excellence, and much more!The Nugget is on YouTube!youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-honnoldNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:21) – Interviews and TED Talks(00:07:25) – Finding new terrain for this interview(00:08:05) – Epic solo linkup in Zion(00:11:16) – Soloing ‘Moonlight Buttress’… again(00:12:08) – Why do these big solo linkups?(00:12:56) – Epic solo linkup in Red Rock(00:14:54) – Foot pain on big walls and vitamin I(00:17:41) – Onsight free soloing ‘Shune’s Buttress’ and ‘Resolution Arete’(00:20:34) – The hardest thing Alex has downclimbed(00:21:29) – Solos that fly under the radar(00:22:47) – Free soloing ‘Sendero Luminoso’ in Mexico(00:25:17) – The limits of free soloing(00:28:31) – Quantum leaps(00:30:16) – Yosemite soloing, and Alex vs. top sport climbers(00:32:22) – Chris Sharma's FA of ‘Necessary Evil’ 5.14c (8c+), and the role of talent(00:35:40) – Will Alex climb 5.15a (9a+)?(00:38:33) – Dad strength(00:39:46) – Vegas gyms and homewall dreams(00:49:34) – Near misses(00:55:34) – Soloing ‘Fiesta De Los Biceps’ in Riglos Spain(00:57:46) – Competing with Ethan Pringle, soloing ‘Shune’s Butress’ in the snow, and the tree story(01:03:16) – Soloing ‘Monkey Finger’, Big Horn tracks, and spirit animals(01:04:22) – The physiological limits of ‘The Nose’ speed record(01:08:06) – Breaking ‘The Nose’ speed record(01:10:47) – Biggest lessons from Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft(01:14:26) – Inspiration, and soloing with Shawn Raboutou(01:18:15) – Following the climbing news(01:19:01) – Who Alex is most impressed by, and interviewing the Mellow crew (Daniel Woods, Shawn Raboutou, Jimmy Webb, and Giuliano Cameroni)(01:20:35) – New season of Climbing Gold(01:22:13) – Favorite interviews on Climbing Gold(01:23:28) – Corporate speaking and interviewing Stone Masters(01:26:24) – Climbing Gold uncut interviews(01:28:37) – Pooping while free soloing stories(01:34:56) – Shit-puting, and pooping while soloing El Cap(01:36:29) – Filming Free Solo and the Warrior Spirit(01:38:54) – The commitment to excellence(01:41:05) – Plans for the PNW(01:43:57) – “More intention never hurt.”(01:44:47) – “The guy that free-handed Yellowstone?”

Will Bosi is a 24-year-old climber from Scotland who has emerged as one of the best climbers in the world. This interview is hot off the press! Will made the second ascent of ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17 less than two weeks ago and joins us for a proper geek out about the send. We talked about his process of projecting the replica and the actual boulder, his feats of finger strength and where to draw the line between party tricks and useful strength, doing the second ascent of ‘Mutation’ at Raven Tor, his absolute dream project, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget60Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-bosiNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:05:18) – The emotions we experience after a big send, and looking for new projects in Scotland(00:07:56) – How sending Burden of Dreams has changed his self-perception, and the style of hard project that Will is searching for(00:10:53) – Being from Scotland and currently based in Sheffield(00:12:17) – Following Will’s journey trying the replica with Aidan and Stefano, live streams from Finland, and taking seven years for Burden to get repeated(00:15:38) – Mutation continuing to go unrepeated again after Will did it(00:17:23) – Is Will the first person to have climbed V17 and 5.15c? (9A boulder and 9b+ sport)(00:20:07) – Will’s first time trying the Burden replica in Aidan’s shed(00:23:32) – Will’s thoughts on Shawn’s progress on Burden(00:25:10) – The warmup game on Burden, and the last move(00:30:16) – Will’s standard training session, and what his process looked like training on the Bruden replica(00:33:45) – Doing the first move 5 times in a session, and feeling stronger every session(00:36:26) – How similar the replica is to the actual boulder, and what surprised Will the most when he tried Burden(00:41:12) – How Will’s beta compared to Nalle’s, and the heal hook beta(00:46:17) – What a full session looked like on the replica,  and how that compared to a session on the actual boulder(00:51:28) – His skin when he sent the boulder, feeling strongest on his first try of the day, and the send(00:54:48) – How long a pair of shoes lasts on the boulder(00:57:33) – Will’s shoe selection for Burden, and struggling with the second move(00:58:53) – The pulley setup on the replica, comparing it to Katie Lamb’s experience on Spectre, and the usefulness of power spots(01:08:50) – Will replicas change the way we think about flashing boulders?(01:12:03) – The future of replica training, and the Alphane replica in Aidan’s shed(01:15:35) – Will’s thoughts on the grades of Burden, Alphane, and his FA Honey Badger(01:26:27) – Will’s feats of finger strength on the hangboard(01:30:57) – Where is the line between party tricks vs. functional finger strength?(01:34:21) – A breakdown of Mutation 9a+/b(01:38:24) – Bigger edge training vs. micros(01:40:52) – How often throughout the year Will does his go-to style of training session, and building volume vs. intensity(01:46:28) – Will’s absolute dream in climbing, and his experience on Excalibur 5.15c (9b+)(01:49:10) – Breakdown of the moves on Excalibur(01:52:21) – What’s next for Will, and potential plans for the summer(01:53:59) – Will’s thoughts on endurance training, and his story of sending Estado Critico 9a(01:55:13) – Being more thoughtful about your climbing(01:57:17) – Feeling excited to relax and chill, and plans to release a film of Burden(01:58:22) – Subscribe to Will’s YouTube channel for send footage!

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Katie Lamb. We talked about her recent send of Spectre V14 in Bishop CA, breaking down crux moves into multiple pieces, how she trains on a spray wall, her top 5 go-to lifts in the weight room, projecting tricks, dopamine snacks vs. substance, what she learned from Spectre, having the travel bug, goals for 2023, and more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:12:49.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingKatie’s Original Episode:EP 145: Katie Lamb 

Charlie Schreiber is a world-class climbing coach who has helped day 1 athletes become National Champions, 5.14d sport climbers, and V15 boulderers. We talked about the value of asking “why”, giving kids hard work and then reward, finding fresh lemons to squeeze, puzzle books and getting inside the mind of the puzzle maker, our shared goal to climb V13, how to have a good poop in the morning (every time), and much more!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiberNuggets:0:03:19 – My painting of Monkey Face at Smith Rock, and hominess0:04:34 – Charlie’s apartment, and making and collecting art0:08:08 – What Charlie thought I looked like from listening to the podcast0:10:48 – How Charlie got into coaching, routesetters as choreographers, and building a successful climbing team from scratch0:16:49 – Austin Hoyt and Adam Shahar, Charlie’s own competition background, and being obsessed with coaching and giving back to the kids0:18:37 – Where Charlie got his coaching ideas, and the emphasis on humor, games, and play0:22:37 – “The only reason anyone’s going to give effort to something is if they believe in it.”0:24:38 – Hard work, and then reward (e.g. capture the flag)0:26:38 – Motivating adult clients, and working with one of his clients to get better at slab0:30:15 – The school system, and understanding why you are doing things0:32:26 – Slab climbing fundamentals0:35:38 – Spending time on fundamental skills, the learning zone, and perfect repeats0:40:26 – Adding structure to the warmup, and adherence as #10:43:39 – Customizing training for each individual, and finding all of the lemons to squeeze0:47:31 – How routesetting helped Charlie’s climbing, and asking “why”0:50:53 – How asking “why” applies to outdoor climbs0:53:53 – Making up your own climbs in the gym, puzzle books, and getting inside the mind of the puzzle maker1:03:15 – The forced move drill1:05:35 – Charlie’s goal to climb V13, and the path to get there1:12:10 – My Follow-Up with Emil Abrahamsson, my experience with fueling my training better, and momentum1:14:37 – More about Charlie’s approach to climbing V13, and finger training with large hands1:17:13 – My goal for Rocklands, how Charlie approaches a trip, and the value of getting on really hard climbs1:23:34 What Charlie is working on improving to climb V13, and my plans to project a V12 and V13 in Rocky Mountain this Fall1:29:23 – “Never, ever, ever give up.” - Winston Churchill1:33:58 – Charlie’s honeymoon1:35:36 – Using your spouse/partner as an accountability tool1:39:44 – Valuing climbing for the experiences rather than self-worth1:44:11 – How to have a good poop in the morning, every time1:49:11 – My paleo autoimmune diet experiment, and having full meals at the crag1:51:40 – My bicep tendon injury1:52:45 – Charlie’s experiment with an alkaline diet1:55:39 – How Charlie blew up on Instagram2:03:05 – Being awarded the “Dyno King” by Chris Sharma, and drawing inspiration from Tyson Schoene2:05:37 – Setting the record straight with Austin Hoyt2:09:58 – Plugs and wrap up

Melina Costanza is a competition powerhouse and the 2021 US Boulder National Champion. She opened up recently about her struggles with an eating disorder and decided to step away from competitions. We talked about her foot injury and surgery, why patent law is similar to climbing, how sports glamorize suffering, getting stronger during recovery, how gratitude can impact your training, and fun facts about Melina from ketchup to baby teeth necklaces.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/melina-costanzaNuggets:0:06:25 – Update on Melina’s foot surgery and recovery0:10:27 – The patent bar exam, and similarities between patent law and climbing0:15:15 – Legos, and being a nerd growing up0:16:45 – How taking her first physics class improved her climbing0:19:30 – Modern volume climbing0:24:06 – How Melina is thinking about her climbing moving forward, and training for upcoming competitions0:26:20 – Plans to get back into sport climbing, and Melina’s Tumbler account0:28:31 – Why Melina decided to quit climbing in college0:33:36 – Fun in competitions, and only doing competitions that she wants to be at0:36:48 – Expectations and pressure, and competing to win vs. competing to not lose0:42:25 – Competitions as data, and “shoulding”0:45:21 – Melina’s Instagram post about her eating disorder, and the story of breaking her foot0:50:40 – The distortion your mind experiences with an eating disorder, and how sports glamorize suffering0:57:42 – How your identity becomes entangled in an eating disorder, and rewriting the stories you tell yourself1:01:53 – The importance of including fat and carbs in your diet, and getting stronger quickly once she started fueling properly1:09:54 – Taking a leap of faith, and being vulnerable publically to help others1:15:40 – A comment from Nicole1:16:23 – Patron question from Katja: What inspired her to go public with her story?1:19:13 – Not letting her eating disorder define her1:20:09 – Did talking about it publically help?1:22:53 – Patron question from Ana: Did anyone bring up Melina’s weight as a concern?1:24:50 – Patron question from Eric: How would someone bring up concerns about an eating disorder in a tactful way?1:27:10 – Patron question from Zachary: How does Melina deal with intrusive thoughts around weight? How does she balance performance with recovery?1:30:52 – Disconnecting morality from food, and sweets1:34:31 – How not eating enough disrupts sleep1:37:30 – Fun facts with Melina Costanza!1:37:37 – Tattooing people in high school1:39:02 – Ketchup1:40:44 – Container store1:42:05 – Whiteboards and houseplants1:43:54 – Taylor Swift1:47:41 – Doja Cat1:49:46 – Sharks1:50:18 – The meat packing industry in the early 1900s1:51:59 – Parents and academics1:54:17 – Training at home during covid with her brother, and the role of gratitude in training1:59:07 – Current training, and getting strong2:04:29 – Training her fingers for the first time, and using the Tindeq (use code NUGGET for $10 off!)2:07:47 – How hard can Melina climb with one foot?2:09:18 – More fun facts with Melina!2:09:50 – Frozen peas2:10:46 – Baby teeth necklace2:11:50 – Forensic pathology DVDs2:15:02 – Raw octopus2:15:49 – Medival torture museum, and developing confidence2:19:15 – Fencing2:20:20 – Olympic aspirations2:21:23 – A couple of questions from Tyson Schoene2:26:19 – Wrap up

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Matt Heyliger is back on the podcast and joins me to talk about my bicep tendon injury back in December in Hueco, my rehab process, and how I was able to get back to climbing V10 in less than three months. We discuss the different stages of recovery, using BFR as part of my rehab, how to make the transition back to training, and how I am currently training for an upcoming bouldering trip to Magic Wood and Rocklands.Matt's Website:mattheyliger.comBecome a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:31:47.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingMatt’s Original Episode:EP 143: Matt Heyliger 

Johnny Dawes is a legendary British rock climber known for his exceptional footwork and unique dynamic style. We talked about his first ascent of Indian Face (the first-ever E9) when it was likely the most dangerous route in the world, climbing 5.13b (8a) slabs without using his hands, tips for mastering footwork, his writing practice and current book project, and life lessons involving three-legged stools, omelets, pasta, icebergs, and more.Watch This Video!Johnny's 7-Minute Video on The GuardianCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/johnny-dawesNuggets:0:04:22 – A couple of fun stories from our past lives0:08:01 – Having a blue day, dicking about, and thoughts on what he wants to accomplish in his life0:10:25 – The head, the heart, and the gut0:11:22 – Knowing where you’re going, the water bottle, and the grannies0:15:51 – Why I was so excited to talk with Johnny0:17:24 – Crawling out the driver's window of his car with a brick on the accelerator0:21:42 – Breaking down one of his legendary no-hand climbs (watch the Guardian video!)0:26:35 – Johnny’s ideal staircase, and flattening the world to flatter our egos0:30:07 – Bolts and baked potatoes0:32:04 – Johnny’s thoughts about modern bouldering, and being impressed with Shawn Raboutou0:33:38 – Chess problems, eyes bigger than tummy, and what brought the best out of Johnny in his climbing0:37:55 – Sticking an 8A (V11) hang on two terrible holds0:42:06 – What Johnny looks for in climbing, and the musicality of climbing0:52:04 – Hank Pascal0:53:27 – Watchin Jerry Moffatt climb Masters Wall, and why Johnny felt compelled to climb Indian Face, the world’s first E91:01:09 – North Wales, the apple tree, and wanting to be a part of the history of the sport1:10:01 – Sending Indian Face, partying at the disco, trying The Meltdown 9a, and some of Johnny’s recent new routes at Cloggy1:15:19 – Breakdown of the difficulty and gear on Indian Face, and how it got its name1:20:36 – Kurt Albert on the escalator1:23:59 – Patron comment from Artjom, and no-hands tips and exercises from Johnny1:27:48 – The hardest things Johnny has climbed without his hands, and climbing 1600+ “walks” in Britain1:31:15 – Spectacular Walks on British Rock1:32:38 – Making grip1:35:47 – How no-hands climbing applies to hard technical rock climbing1:37:55 – How Johnny Dawes approaches improving footwork1:41:19 – Writing the Footwork Handbook1:43:38 – His autobiography, his writing practice, and the mysteries of consciousness1:47:58 – Zen and the Art of Archery1:51:03 – A window into being alive, and games that keep you present1:53:12 – “Your enthusiasm tells you who you are”, and climbing in gardening gloves1:55:19 – Patron question from Will: What climbers inspired Johnny early on?1:57:50 – Music, writing, and artistic inspirations1:58:40 – Who does Johnny pay attention to these days in climbing?2:01:05 – Patron question from Nick: What do you think climbing will or should look like in another 30 years?2:03:12 – Climbing shoe evolution, and the world’s strongest man2:05:19 – Life lessons with Johnny Dawes, the three-legged stool, and making omelets and pasta2:12:20 – Formative causation2:14:19 – Go to bed when you’re tired, and treat people like icebergs2:15:35 – “It is never too late to be who you might have been.”2:19:37 – Roof man, and being useless2:22:12 – Reading Jeff Smoot’s book, and why humans do dangerous things2:25:22 – Wanting to do impossible things, and “modern life can go f*** itself”2:26:57 – “Can I go?”

Fundamentals (Part 6 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I dive into how to structure your climbing year. We talk about the circumstances that led to some of our best years in climbing, the importance of having a plan and taking notes, why focus tends to produce excellence, how to build from one phase to the next, and making sure your training supports your climbing. Happy planning!Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse FirestoneTom Randall's Follow-Up:Follow-Up: Tom Randall The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out LMNT!DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGETUse this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zack Emery Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-6Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:55) – Sending my first three V11s in 2021, why 2022 was less successful than 2021, and "focus tends to produce excellence"(00:09:56) – Why 2022 was a great year for Jesse, and flashing Free Willie V10 in Hueco Tanks(00:11:56) – Jesse’s new philosophy, and realization that he will never try everything on his list(00:13:37) – Steven’s Tip #1: Write out a rough plan for your year(00:16:31) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Map out the major phases for your year(00:17:16) – Steven’s Tip #2: Reflect and take notes on your previous year(00:20:01) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Keep a daily journal(00:21:17) – Bonus Tip: Celebrate your successes, and write down your top 10 climbing experiences at the end of each year(00:22:14) – What Jesse includes in his daily journal, and reviewing once a season(00:24:21) – My preferred journaling method, and the +/- system(00:26:43) – Jesse’s Google Keep beta(00:28:05) – Steven’s Tip #3: Give yourself time to transition between disciplines(00:34:36) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Write down three things that you want to work on to be prepared for each phase(00:40:05) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Your training should support your climbing (put the climbing first)(00:43:27) – Steven’s Tip #4: If you want to hit a peak performance, set aside three months to build toward that goal(00:44:34) – Steven’s Tip #5: Listen to my Follow-Up with Tom Randall on how to program your training(00:45:23) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Just winging it(00:45:43) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Not having a plan(00:47:21) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not rolling with the punches(00:48:28) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Not taking notes (or not summarizing your notes in a way that is actually useful)(00:49:22) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not taking a rest phase(00:52:14) – Bonus Tip: If you want to keep a session short, make a plan for right after the session(00:53:55) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Bouncing around too often with disciplines, styles, rock types, etc.(00:55:24) – Jesse’s Pitfall #4: Putting all of your time, and energy, and using all of the good conditions for one limit thing (throw yourself a bone every once in a while!)(00:57:12) – The progression zone(00:58:04) – Steven’s Top Tip: Make a plan and take notes, and listen to my Follow-Up with Tom Randall(00:58:47) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Focus on the stuff that matters: no more than three(00:59:22) – Jesse’s two goals for 2022(01:00:13) – Let us know if you want a season 2!

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Emil Abrahamsson is back on the podcast to talk about sending his first V15. We talked about how gaining 15 lbs (6.5 kg) led to sending his hardest boulder, how and why he overhauled his training, how he’s achieved long-term finger strength gains, sending his most meaningful project with Power of Now V14, my goal to climb my first V13, his advice for me, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:06:03.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingEmil’s Original Episode:EP 85: Emil Abrahamsson (Sept 6, 2021) 

Sam Stroh is caffeinated, psyched, and ready to send everything from double-digit highballs to free routes on El Cap. We talked about his early climbing and onsighting Moonlight Buttress (5.12+), our coffee and chocolate addictions, finding the perfect climbing partner, the biggest lessons from each discipline of climbing, suffering on the side of El Cap, botching it with tactics, and harrowing sends.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-strohNuggets:0:05:17 – Coffee and morning rituals0:10:25 – Sam’s stretching and evening routines, and the self-care bell curve0:13:42 – Sam shares his intentions for the conversation and topics he wants to cover0:19:27 – Onsighting the Moonlight Buttress 5.12+ in Zion at age 20 with bad tactics0:28:36 – Meeting his climbing partner Adrian, and trying Desert Gold and Jet Stream in Red Rocks0:32:31 – Switching between disciplines, and Sam’s thoughts on how he and Adrian are so perfectly aligned0:35:59 – Sam’s background in sports0:37:54 – The benefits of bouldering for big wall climbing0:40:44 – The method to the madness with switching disciplines, and cultivating long-term relationships0:43:09 – What inspires Sam the most long-term, and having great stories0:48:39 – Wet moss on El Niño, and trying Wet Lycra Nightmare with Jordan Cannon0:55:00 – Injuring his hand on the Salathe0:59:15 – Working on Wet Lycra Nightmare, and Sam and I connect over our love-hate relationship with Smith Rock1:06:41 – The mindfulness and patience of bouldering1:12:06 – The quintessential sport climbing experience1:16:28 – Sam’s biggest lesson from big wall climbing: get a waterproof portaledge fly1:24:44 – Thoughts on big wall ethics and style1:34:12 – Sam’s ape index, and the height-dependent nature of El Cap1:37:34 – The Freerider story1:45:28 – Favorite big wall and bouldering snacks1:46:58 – Sam’s knee injury1:51:01 – Upcoming trip to Spain, Greece, and France1:52:21 – Thoughts on the lack of information on endurance training for climbing, and rehabbing his shoulder1:58:30 – Lessons from switching between bouldering or training and sport climbing2:02:11 – No more treadwalls in gyms2:03:44 – Watching the river vs. diving in

Fundamentals (Part 5 of 6) — In part 5 of this series, Jesse and I share our tips and pitfalls for picking a project. As Jesse says in this episode, picking the right projects is a key part of having a satisfying climbing experience. We cover some of our best projecting experiences, as well as times we botched it, and we try to pass on what we learned along the way. Have fun projecting!Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out LMNT!DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGETUse this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zack Emery Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-5Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:26) – Plans for season 2 of Fundamentals!(00:04:12) – Why picking the right project matters(00:05:41) – Jesse’s experience on Turbulence V11/12 in Leavenworth, WA(00:07:05) – My experience on Eternia V11 in RMNP, CO(00:09:39) – Jesse’s epic to climb his first V10 in OR(00:11:34) – Times I’ve botched it with picking projects, and a good experience on Crime Wave 5.13d at Smith Rock, OR(00:15:58) – Jesse’s experience with Boxcar 5.13c at the Rat Cave, OR(00:17:04) – Steven’s Tip #1: If you are trying to do the hardest thing you have ever done, make everything else easy(00:18:09) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Ask yourself the ABC questions: Is it accessible, badass, and challenging?(00:21:03) – Bonus Tip: Know thyself(00:22:08) – Steven’s Tip #2: Remember that grades are a relative difficulty marker and they’re not absolute(00:24:01) – Jesse’s Tip #2: A V-grade is a poor substitute for motivation(00:27:16) – Steven’s Tip #3: Think about what your last 3 months, 6 months, and year have looked like in terms of your climbing(00:27:56) – Steven’s Tip #4: Think about what the 1 and 2 month lead up time to the project is going to look like (and choose a pre-project if you can)(00:29:55) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Once you’ve committed to trying to do something, it’s ok if you only want to do it because of the grade/difficulty(00:33:55) – Steven’s Tip #5: Pick a challenge that excites you(00:37:27) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Overcommitting to a tick list,  and not leaving room for serendipity(00:40:40) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Picking a limit project that is a pain in the ass in one or more ways(00:42:13) – Jesse’s realization from trying The Teacup V13 in Leavenworth, WA(00:43:00) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Letting all of your other climbing suffer because you are just trying one project (I.e. Be careful about oneitis!)(00:45:35) – Bonus Tip: Take the things you see on Instagram with a grain of salt(00:48:00) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Picking a limit project with a single low-percentage move(00:50:45) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Listening too much to other people (Don’t let yourself be put in a box!)(00:53:02) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not adjusting the grade appropriately to find the correct level of challenge(00:54:20) – Jesse’s Pitfall #4: Picking a project just because it’s there(00:54:50) – Jesse’s Pitfall #5: Not giving yourself a break between hard projects(00:56:37) – Summaries are in the show notes!(00:57:17) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Learn to pay attention to that little voice in your head that tells you what’s inspiring(00:58:04) – Steven’s Top Tip: If you trying to do the hardest thing you’ve ever done, stack all the cards in your favor

Tom Randall and Sam Van Boxtel are back on the podcast to discuss all things YouTube! We talked about YouTube as the future of climbing media, why Shawn Raboutou’s vlog is such a big deal in climbing right now, why I started a channel for The Nugget, how much money YouTubers make, the keys to being successful on YouTube, top advice for all content creators, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingTom’s Other Episodes:EP 75: Tom Randall (June 21, 2021)Follow-Up: Tom Randall (Feb 17, 2022)Sam’s Other Episodes:EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel (Sept 5, 2022)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and RenzollamaBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-and-samNuggets:0:08:10 – Pee bottles, Tom’s advice for vanlife peeing activities0:10:11 – The Ultimate Peeing Van Bodily Fluid Dilema0:12:57 – Welcoming Tom and Sam back on the podcast, and their other episodes (see show notes for links)0:13:59 – Tom’s busy life, and being extremely intentional about what he chooses to do0:15:58 – Tom’s quest to find the ultimate climbing  experience in a single pitch, and climbing ‘Once Upon a Time’ E90:20:04 – Why are we recording an entire episode about YouTube?0:23:49 – How often Tom gets recognized from YouTube, and why he’s so interested in where things are going0:26:10 – It’s still early on YouTube0:28:32 – Why is Shawn Raboutou starting his Vlog one of the biggest things to happen in climbing media in recent years?0:33:11 – Why more pro climbers will likely move over to YouTube, and YouTube vs. Instagram payouts0:36:35 – Why is YouTube the future of climbing media?0:40:50 – Why long-form podcasts are similar to YouTube vlogs0:43:44 – Why I launched a YouTube channel for The Nugget (link in show notes!)0:46:20 – Why YouTube wins over static content0:49:46 – What Tom has learned from growing the Lattice Training channel0:52:57 – The importance of packaging your content well, the behind-the-scenes of YouTubing, comparing Anna Hazelnutt and Adam Ondra’s channels, and how much it costs to run a YouTube channel1:00:25 – How technology levels the playing field for content creators1:01:49 – How much do people make on YouTube, and where does the money come from?1:07:27 – The keys to being successful on YouTube1:12:55 – How hard Magnus Midtbø works to make his channel successful (see show notes for his podcast episode)1:14:09 – Sam’s 3 keys to being successful on YouTube: Title, Topic, and Thumbnail1:16:40 – The importance of organization and systems1:19:12 – Sam’s recommendations for The Nugget’s channel, and filling out the ecosystem of the channel1:23:58 – Tom’s advice for me, and making content specific to the platform you plan to share it on1:32:49 – Why aren’t brands doing more on YouTube?1:36:09 – What should climbing brands be doing as far as YouTube is concerned?1:40:21 – Behind the scenes with brand sponsorships1:43:55 – Tom’s advice for anyone who is thinking of starting a YouTube channel, and the hard work it takes to be successful1:48:59 – What Tom is most excited to see on YouTube1:50:36 – What Sam is most excited to see on YouTube1:51:39 – What I am most excited to see on YouTube1:53:23 – Wrap up, Tom’s upcoming trip to Austria, and Sam’s upcoming trips in the States1:57:57 – Watch full uncut podcast videos on Patreon

Fundamentals (Part 4 of 6) — In part 4 of this series, Jesse and I discuss our top tips for how to improve your climbing technique, and share common pitfalls that can prevent progress. These are fundamental tips that you can practice at the climbing gym, the boulders, or the crag. We hope this episode helps you more closely examine your movement so you can level up your climbing!Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out LMNT!DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGETUse this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Renzollama Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-4Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:23) – Jesse’s realization about his climbing style, and wanting to climb taller(00:06:23) – My interest in getting better at straight-on roof climbing(00:07:47) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Structure your technical practice(00:10:38) – Skills are specific to the intensity of the movement(00:12:25) – My philosophy for improving technique and how it differs from Jesse’s(00:14:23) – Steven’s Tip #1: Become really interested in becoming a better climber(00:15:35) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Technique starts with creativity(00:16:53) – The lesson Jesse learned from Pangalactic Gargleblaster(00:19:30) – Steven’s Tip #2: Watch climbing videos(00:22:21) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Film yourself incessently(00:26:27) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do perfect repeats(00:29:33) – Steven’s Tip #4: Film yourself and review the video between tries(00:30:59) – The confidence that comes from having footage of yourself climbing well(00:33:48) – “We tend to believe the things we tell ourselves.”(00:36:26) – Jesse’s Tip #4 (from Kim!): Speak the language(00:38:31) – Steven’s Tip #5: Do the one and two-star climbs at your home crag(00:40:33) – Bonus Tip: Frustration is usually a sign that there is room for improvement(00:42:12) – Bonus Tip: Have your friends set problems for you on the spray wall(00:42:12) – The satisfaction of climbing a scrappy or unpleasant climb really gracefully(00:43:34) – “Take me to a moderate that I’ve never heard of.”(00:43:56) – Jesse’s Tip #5: Treat your flexibility as a skill, and practice it on the wall(00:48:38) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Assuming you’ve learned everything there is to learn(00:51:33) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Assuming that if something looks good it must be good technique(00:55:08) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Going through the motions(00:56:38) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Becoming too robotic with your technique practice(00:58:36) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Expecting gym technique to transfer to outdoor climbing(01:02:25) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not training your technique in your strong areas(01:03:51) – Steven’s Pitfall #4: Avoiding the things that you’re bad at and turning everything into your style(01:06:14) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Be endlessly curious about how you’re moving on the wall(01:06:31) – Steven’s Top Tip: Become very interested in climbing better and bring that intention to your climbing

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tim Emmett is back on the podcast to geek out about his project Era Vella 9a (5.14d). We talked about his Fall 2022 season in Spain, lessons from 80+ days projecting the route, how he changed his diet to feel his healthiest at age 48, discovering his own personal climbing mantra, finding flow state, the value of trying something at your limit, and much more!Check out Tim's Instagram post about Era VellaBecome a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:24:37.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTim’s Original Episode:EP 107: Tim Emmett (Feb 21, 2022) 

Jeannie Wall (aka “The Energizer Bunny”) is a world-class skier, life-long mountain athlete, and obsessed climber. She cofounded Broad Beta to cultivate a community for women and genderqueer folks to share their stories of outdoor adventures in the mountains. We talked about lessons from her upbringing, the importance of partnerships and mentorship in climbing, slowing down to go fast, engaging with the edge of our comfort zone, ordinary people doing extraordinary things, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and RenzollamaBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jeannie-wallNuggets:0:08:38 – Overview of our conversation, and growing up as the youngest of 11 children0:14:22 – Baggage and benefits from her upbringing, and being competitive as a racer0:16:52 – The chapter of life that Jeannie is in now, and learning patience0:19:22 – Competing at the Olympic Trials for nordic skiing, and why she doesn’t miss competing and racing0:23:58 – Shifting toward climbing, and how she has changed in her 50s0:25:38 – Examples of people climbing hard in their 60s, and Jeannie’s hut ski trip0:28:07 – Why Jeannie finally got hooked on climbing0:34:12 – Getting Swine Flu, dealing with chronic fatigue for two years, and finding a different path in climbing0:36:14 – “If you wanna go fast, you have to go slow most of the time.”0:41:31 – How media influences us in climbing, and giving the last 10% to be excellent at something0:47:02 – My inner tension with bouldering, the role of mentorship, and Jeannie’s story of climbing Fitz Roy0:54:42 – Challenge and risk as key parts of the human experience1:01:18 – “If we’re not learning are we really happy?”1:05:25 – Engaging with the edge of our comfort zone1:07:13 – The pressure to be someone other than who you are1:12:33 – The value of pursuing your passion1:15:05 – Wildness, and why Jeannie and Leslie started Broad Beta1:24:20 – Heroes, looking at the whole person, and the stories of ordinary people doing extraordinary things1:28:42 – Why stories are so powerful1:33:02 – Sharing the whole story, and Jeannie’s menopause article1:38:09 – Jeannie’s vision for Broad Beta1:45:12 – Where to find Broad Beta1:47:10 – Wrap up and final questions

Fundamentals (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3 of this series, Jesse and I discuss tips and pitfalls for going on a sport climbing trip. Whether you are a weekend warrior, planning your first-ever sport climbing trip, or a seasoned veteran, we hope this episode will help you send your dream routes and enjoy your climbing along the way.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out LMNT!DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGETUse this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-3Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:29) – The worst sport climbing I’ve been on, destroying my rental car, and having too high of expectations(00:09:16) – Jesse’s experiences making weekend trips to Smith Rock(00:10:29) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Have a good partner or crew(00:11:38) – Steven’s Tip #1: Try to sport climb as much as possible leading up to the sport climbing trip(00:13:12) – My trip to Rifle in 2018, and why it was successful(00:14:30) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Prioritize the right skills before the trip(00:15:30) – Jesse’s endurance/money analogy(00:16:14) – A tip for how to practice and train for sport climbing on a spray wall(00:18:38) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Be mindful of crag’s ethics and history when you travel to a new sport climbing crag(00:19:48) – Steven’s Tip #2: Be brutally honest with yourself about how much time you have(00:22:27) – Steven’s Tip #3: Be intentional with what routes you try(00:23:21) – Bonus Tip: Leave the ground with purpose(00:23:57) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Think about links on your project as their own goal(00:25:40) – Steven’s Tip #4: Have a goal or an intention for every try(00:27:29) – Jesse’s Tip #5: Dial in your snack game(00:29:02) – Steven’s Tip #5: Do mileage, or try something that is hard for you, but don’t try to do both(00:31:59) – Bonus Tip: If you are a boulderer primarily, be open-minded and give the routes time to grow on you 0:31:50 – The sunk cost fallacy, being okay with recon tries, and why you’ll probably get better at sport climbing over time(00:38:35) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Not having the right clothing layers(00:40:47) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Not being specific enough with preparation before the trip(00:43:19) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Getting redpoint blinders(00:45:45) – The value of not trying your project on the last day of your trip(00:48:11) – Some thoughts and tips related to onsighting(00:50:10) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Letting the group derail your plans and keep you in your comfort zone(00:51:31) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not discussing your plans and intentions with your partner before the trip(00:52:10) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Having too high of expectations(00:53:55) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Endurance is important, but it’s secondary to actual sport climbing skills(00:54:25) – Steven’s Top Tip: Be brutally honest with yourself about how much time you really have, and make your tries count

Caleb Robinson is an ex-competitive soccer player, elite boulderer, route setter, and photographer. He started climbing at age 17 and sent his first V13 in just four years. We talked about the biggest lessons he learned from competitive soccer, how deadlifting fixed his back, a typical week of training, his finger training journey, the power of consistency over time, finding his artistic expression in photography, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/caleb-robinsonNuggets:0:07:20 – A Thursday in the life of Caleb Robinson0:08:55 – New Year’s Resolutions, and building habits over time0:11:24 – Climbing V13 in the first few years of climbing, and how competitive soccer informed his climbing and training approach0:16:05 – How deadlifting fixed Caleb’s back0:21:08 – Being enamored with soccer, and why he quit soccer and started climbing0:24:07 – There’s no middle ground in conventional team sports, and why climbing is so special0:29:16 – Uncle —> karate gym —> climbing0:34:00 – “The hard work that you don’t want to do pays off.”0:36:04 – “Intelligence is just as important as physical prowess.”0:36:45 – Quadzilla, and connecting between the upper body and lower body0:40:42 – How “hard work pays off” applies to Caleb’s climbing0:42:41 – Being a self-learner, and having intention0:49:12 – Training resources and athletes that have guided Caleb’s approach0:52:26 – Experimenting with training, focusing on being good at climbing, and avoiding common mistakes and pitfalls0:59:24 – How Caleb developed his technique, and the importance of climbing with people who are better than you1:02:57 – Having a mobility routine, dedicating time to recovery, and missing snowboarding1:08:40 – Caleb’s finger-training journey1:19:50 – The value of consistency + simplicity, and sticking with it when progress slows (and Caleb’s love affair with Dave MacLeod)1:27:17 – What Caleb’s finger training progress looked like over the two years that he did max hangs1:31:41 – Caleb’s grip positions for hangboarding1:33:52 – How his finger training has changed in the past year, and learning to apply his finger strength to climbing1:38:13 – What a typical training week looks like for Caleb1:45:16 – Why Caleb started route setting1:47:21 – A typical training week now as a route setter1:49:31 – Caleb’s philosophy about skills, finger strength, and core strength, and his stable workouts right now (board climbing, campusing on the spray wall, etc)1:52:32 – Caleb’s core training routine1:58:01 – Why Caleb focuses on maximal effort training1:59:12 – The importance of quality practice2:00:32 – “Success comes with consistency over a long period of time”, and Caleb’s photography career2:03:07 – Moody Russian painters2:04:31 – Finding his own artistic expression in photography, and the collaborative side of taking portraits2:10:42 – Taking the long view as an athlete and artist2:13:32 – The one thing Caleb wishes people spent more time thinking about2:19:24 – Wrap up and what’s next

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Aidan Roberts is back on the podcast for a proper geek-out about cutting-edge bouldering! We talked about sending Alphane V17, how he and Ollie tweaked his approach to focus on power over the winter, his plans to try futuristic (V18) projects back in Switzerland, and Aidan answered your questions about his training, finger strength, board climbing, flexibility, nutrition, lifestyle, and more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:53:31.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAidan’s Original Episode:EP 142: Aidan Roberts (Oct 31, 2022)

The Nugget is now on YouTube! We'll be sharing top clips from the podcast along with never-before-seen content. Subscribe before Feb 28th to enter to win a Training Bundle from Chalk Cartel, Frictitious Climbing, and Rhino Skin Solutions!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing

Fundamentals (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2 of this series, Jesse and I dive deeper into specific tips and pitfalls for going on a bouldering trip. We covered a wide range of topics including training and preparation, crash pad and kit recommendations, how to manage skin and energy, good bouldering ethics, how to boulder in a group, and much more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-2Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:22) – A favorite memory from Jesse’s trip to Rocklands, and my week-long trip to Bishop in 2017(00:11:12) – Top out views(00:12:06) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Try to have a mix of crash pads(00:16:55) – Steven’s Tip #1: Make your preparation as specific as possible(00:20:21) – Bonus Tip: Two things that people miss in their bouldering training(00:22:51) – Steven’s Tip #2: Decide really quickly whether or not the boulder you’re trying is important for you (and have an intention for the trip and each climbing day)(00:24:56) – Bonus Tip: Be mindful of the language that you use with yourself (e.g. “I should be able to do this.”)(00:25:35) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Organize your gear and car before your trip (and stash some emergency snacks in your bag!)(00:30:01) – Steven’s Tip #3: Bring everything you think you might need to the boulders(00:32:41) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Know basic bouldering ethics, and know how to move efficiently in a group (and be polite at the boulders)(00:35:01) – Steven’s Tip #4: Take breaks to run around and look at cool stuff(00:36:28) – Bonus Tip: Take your climbing shoes off between every try(00:36:49) – Steven’s Tip #5: Sleep on a decent bed (and bring your pillow!)(00:39:06) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Blowing through all of your skin on day 1(00:40:22) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Getting socially exhausted (i.e. be mindful of how much social energy you have)(00:41:46) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Spending the whole day “warming up” to do the hard thing(00:42:59) – Bonus Tip: Learn how to warm up with minimal climbing (and be ruthlessly realistic about how much time you have and what you can do in a day)(00:44:35) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not being mindful of how much total energy you have(00:46:45) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Blowing it with timing when it comes to conditions and sun/aspect(00:48:02) – Bonus Tip: Try to find out when your project goes into the shade(00:48:26) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not taking responsibility for your own safety(00:52:40) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Know good bouldering ethics(00:53:23) – Steven’s Top Tip: Decide quickly whether the bouldering you are trying is important to you

Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training. We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie’s top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget60Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ollie-torrNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:06:00) – Update on my bicep tendon injury and recovery(00:09:55) – Ollie’s work with the GB Judo team on grip strength and injury recovery(00:14:25) – Ollie’s thoughts on the final stage of recovering from an injury(00:20:33) – My introduction to Lattice in 2016, and Ollie’s funny story about his first interview on Training Beta(00:23:00) – Perfectionism, paralysis by analysis, and action breeds motivation and progression(00:26:06) – “What got me here won’t get me there.”(00:28:35) – Plans for a round two! Stay tuned for a listener Q&A!(00:32:00) – Assessments, and gathering information from new clients(00:39:54) – The key metrics that Lattice assesses with new clients(00:46:10) – Flexibility testing for climbers(00:49:59) – Trying to figure out what works for yourself and your body as an athlete, and Ollie’s process of examining movement, joint, and action(00:56:25) – Coaching Aidan Roberts, Aidan’s approach to training for Isles of Wonder Sit (V16/8C+ FA), and the value of combining strength movements with replica training(01:00:29) – Vacuum climbing, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, and training with Toby Roberts(01:13:24) – Specializing vs. working on weaknesses and rounding out your style, and finding your superpower(01:21:00) – Limbic friction(01:22:13) – What Ollie learned from Tom Randall, and training to “pass the exam”(01:30:20) – Exercises for people who struggle with narrow climbing(01:39:31) – Key exercises for all climbers(01:43:43) – Dorsi flexion (ankle) test you can do at home(01:45:03) – Do tight ankles help with climbing on small foot holds?(01:51:59) – One exercise that Ollie wants every climber to do(01:54:43) – Exercises for office workers to do throughout the day(01:56:54) – “Safety comes through strength”, and the value of blood flow and daily movement(02:02:17) – Having agency in your recovery(02:03:51) – Leg kicks, staple exercises that climbers should do regularly, and playing around with your body(02:07:05) – Setting the bar super low(02:08:23) – Staying on the bus(02:11:39) – Ollie’s gymnastics background, training his fingers after college, and climbing his first V10, V11, and V12 in a two-month period(02:20:10) – Testing his fingers in Tom’s cellar(02:21:41) – Switching training with Tom Randall, how he improved his fitness and efficiency to climb 5.14b (8c), and climbing his first V13 by combining fitness and strength(02:28:22) – The secret to finger strength is….(02:31:45) – Helping Tom get stronger, and why Tom was able to apply the strength quickly to his rock climbing(02:35:16) – Why Ollie doesn’t think low volume all year round is a good strategy, and thoughts on prepping for a sport climbing trip as a boulderer(02:40:58) – Writing yourself a letter(02:43:12) – My (Steven’s) story of getting injured right after the best week of climbing of my life(02:45:00) – 3 key lessons from Ollie(02:51:49) – How to back off after a peak performance(02:56:47) – “The main reason most of us can’t train like professional athletes is because of our headspace and not because of physical limitations.”(03:01:45) – Two reminders that Ollie took away from a period of burnout, and overtraining vs. under-recovering(03:09:41) – “Progression isn’t always the answer.”(03:16:36) – Taking the pressure off, and Ollie’s story about his first 5.14b (8c)(03:25:01) – My 2021 summer season in RMNP(03:28:18) – Removing the friction in your life around climbing(03:31:53) – Take action on something(03:34:48) – Thankful for the Lattice Team(03:36:42) – Wrap up

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Jordan Cannon tunes in from Alex Honnold’s podcasting closet to chat about playing hockey in Las Vegas, how he is rethinking his training for 2023, and his recent send of ‘ Wet Lycra Nightmare’ (5.13d, 9 pitches) on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. We hope you enjoy this geek-out!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:03:36.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingJordan’s Original Episode:EP 115: Jordan Cannon  (April 18, 2022)

Fundamentals (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for going on a climbing trip. Whether you are planning your first-ever climbing trip, or are a seasoned climber, we think you’ll find some helpful nuggets here. We learned these lessons the hard way. Hopefully, you won’t have to.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-1Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:53) – Jesse’s story of breaking his toe in Thailand, and my first-ever bouldering trip to Bishop CA(00:06:28) – Lessons from our first failed climbing trips(00:09:11) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Set the tone for the trip early(00:12:11) – Jesse’s Tip #2: On a week-long trip, always rest the second day(00:13:58) – Patience, and taking a week or two to acclimate on longer trips(00:17:55) – Steven’s Tip #1: Be open(00:21:48) – Steven’s Tip #2: Climb some easy things(00:23:47) – Bonus Tip: Pay some attention to what your climbing values are(00:24:10) – Steven’s Tip #3: Go look at tons of stuff(00:25:51) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Minimize the decisions you have to make right after climbing(00:27:24) – Try to avoid survival mode(00:29:09) – Steven’s Tip #4: Measure the success of the trip in experiences, and not in sends(00:31:28) – Bonus Tip: Set process-oriented goals rather than achievement-oriented goals (and scrap the tick list)(00:34:12) – How complicated it is to climb well on a trip(00:37:34) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: When people recommend climbs to you, keep in mind that they almost always recommend climbs that they had good experiences on, not things that are objectively good(00:39:11) – My first trip to The Red, Jesse’s first trip to Hueco, and thoughts on training for your first trip to a new area(00:41:55) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Don’t train right up until the trip, and don’t try to cram your training in at the last second (show up rested)(00:45:10) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Spending the entire trip on one climb(00:46:07) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Climbing way too much(00:47:21) – Bonus Tip: Be genuinely interested in other people’s climbing(00:49:01) – Bonus Tip: It’s ok to climb a lot on a trip, but be sure to rest appropriately afterward(00:52:39) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Wrecking your skin(00:54:47) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not getting the intensity right(00:57:52) – The sunk cost fallacy on a trip(00:58:57) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Set the tone early in the trip(00:59:37) – Steven’s Top Tip: Be open(01:00:31) – Wrap up

Welcome to a new mini-series called Fundamentals! My pal Jesse Firestone joins me for a six-part series that covers some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber.  We hope these episodes answer common questions, and provide helpful nuggets for climbers of all ability levels. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon!Listen to Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse's Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone

Anna Hazelnutt is a professional climber who specializes in difficult single-pitch trad and slab climbing. But don’t let her specialization fool you—she’s an all-around badass! We talked about two of her biggest climbing achievements to date, leaning into her superpowers, top training exercises for slabs, dealing with negative comments online, embracing empathy, comedy as a mechanism for change, and much more!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/anna-hazelnuttNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:08:20) – Anna’s childhood room(00:10:00) – Plans for Austria(00:11:21) – What we would talk about if we were doing a 6-hour podcast(00:12:50) – Switching places, and the names of our Subarus(00:14:35) – What is Anna’s last name? (Hazelnutt? Hazlett?)(00:17:39) – Lynn Hill gave a shoutout to Anna on The Nugget(00:19:41) – How Anna got started in climbing, and how she found her slab/trad niche(00:24:40) – Anna’s climbing identity, not letting herself grow comfortable, and her competitive side(00:28:57) – Balancing intensity and comedy(00:30:10) – What Anna does to relax (reading books, writing poetry, art), and having trouble sitting still(00:33:30) – Getting an overuse injury from too much slab climbing, and sending ‘Once Upon a Time’ E9 6c in the UK(00:35:53) – Anna’s “belaytioship” with Tom Randall(00:39:29) – Going back for ‘Walk of Life’ E9(00:41:33) – More context about Once Upon a Time and Walk of Life, using skyhooks as trad climbing gear, and taking an hour to lead a 50-meter slab(00:45:38) – Anna’s approach to projecting, and breaking down the climb into chapters(00:50:14) – The chapter names of ‘Walk of Life’ E9(00:55:32) – Teasing more about toe training, and Anna’s thoughts on hangboard tests(01:01:01) – Some context about the 9c test(01:02:53) – Toe training!(01:07:11) – How Anna inspired Tom to work on flexibility(01:09:15) – Leaning into our superpowers(01:14:53) – Anna’s dreamboard, and seeking out hard climbs that fit her style(01:19:30) – How and when Anna did her toe training, and nighttime training at Tom’s house(01:24:09) – How hard are the hardest slabs in the world, and what will it take for Anna to climb them(01:28:45) – Why vertical bouldering is so different from steep bouldering when it comes to pushing your limits(01:31:23) – Anna’s thoughts on slab grades, and how they are often unfairly sandbagged(01:38:04) – Patron question from Jonathan: Does Anna have any training tips for slab climbing? (Anna shares her top slab training exercises: toe training, flexibility, balance, and more)(01:41:20) – Pull-ups on micro edges, and the smallest holds Anna can do pull-ups on(01:43:19) – Shoulder exercises for slab(01:44:12) – Do coordination gym slabs help with outdoor slabs?(01:46:59) – Shoes for hard slabs like ‘Meltdown’ 9a (5.14d)(01:52:54) – Question from Ethan Pringle: What are some synonyms for success in rock climbing that aren’t violent or war-like?(01:58:52) – Another question from Ethan: Where does Anna’s work ethic come from?(02:02:55) – Anna’s sensitivity(02:04:14) – Dealing with negative comments and hate from dudes on the internet(02:09:31) – An example of a disgusting comment that Anna received from someone on her YouTube page(02:16:14) – Anna’s story about a recent comment she and her sister got at the gym(02:21:18) – Patron question from James: How can we make women feel more comfortable and included at the crag and at the gym?(02:23:31) – Anna’s thoughts on intention, awareness, curiosity, and acting with empathy and compassion(02:28:27) – What makes Anna feel safe vs unsafe in a climbing gym setting(02:31:32) – How the burden often falls on the people who are inflicted and don’t assume(02:35:45) – Derek Sivers, and why we should just treat everyone the same while respecting their lived experience(02:39:17) – Some more thoughts about progressivism, and being willing to own your mistakes(02:41:34) – Comedy as a mechanism for change, and studying biochemical neuroscience and English(02:42:32) – The change that Anna is trying to make through her videos(02:47:07) – Giving others permission(02:49:28) – What Anna feels excited about right now in her climbing(02:51:01) – What Anna feels excited about right now with her YouTube channel(02:52:59) – Anna’s sources of income(02:54:54) – Being a hand model for a Sofie Tucker music video(02:56:41) – The difference between YouTube and podcasts(03:00:35) – Final question from Ethan: Does Anna have specific goals that are lifetime achievement goals?(03:06:43) – Empathy(03:09:20) – Wrap up

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast to discuss his recent experiments in finger training. We talked about the difference between active recruitment vs. passive tension in finger loading, why deadhangs may not be the best way to improve your finger strength, how to train using active finger flexion, the results he’s had with his clients, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode, the uncut video interview, and a 6-minute clarification video that I made for Patrons! *The full version is 1:34:15.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTyler’s Other Episodes:EP 79: Tyler Nelson (July 26, 2021)Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson (Jan 28, 2022)

Luke Mehall is the creator of The Climbing Zine and The Dirtbag State of Mind podcast. In this episode, we take turns interviewing each other. I ask Luke why he started The Climbing Zine, what lessons climbing has taught him, what themes connect the stories he selects, and how to sustain creative work. He asks me about my origin story with The Nugget, what all of these interviews have brought to my life, and the difficulties I’ve faced along the way.Check out The Climbing Zine!climbingzine.comCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/luke-mehallNuggets:0:05:18 – What Luke learned from Tim (the owner of Zia Taqueria) about business0:10:48 – Why Luke started The Climbing Zine0:13:11 – What characterizes a zine?0:17:59 – The theme that connects all of the stories Luke chooses for The Climbing Zine0:20:43 – Finding authors and stories, and why Luke almost never assigns stories/topics0:22:46 – How climbing gave Luke his life and saved him from substance abuse and depression0:26:37 – Why you can’t rely just on climbing for your happiness0:27:55 – Sharing vulnerable stories that others can relate to0:29:26 – Luke’s vision for his brand, and how he hopes to share his personal story through film0:34:53 – How to protect the thing you love when your creative work becomes your job0:38:57 – How Luke uses therapy to talk about his goals, and having a hype man0:42:13 – Steven’s origin story with The Nugget, and what I am trying to do by sharing people’s stories0:50:15 – What all of these interviews have brought to my life0:55:01 – The most challenging parts of building The Nugget into a sustainable business1:02:19 – Desiring routine and seasons1:04:27 – My favorite podcasting moments1:08:19 – Sustaining the effort, paying it forward, and closing thoughts from both me and Luke

New interview featuring me! Isabel von Rittberg is a good friend of mine and the host of Kegels and Coffee. She interviewed me on her podcast earlier this year to talk about my experience with my first-ever panic attack in December of 2021. We talked about what led up to the panic attack and how it was a wake-up call for me, how to stay sane while getting the work done, and much more.*This was one of the most vulnerable interviews I’ve done. And it’s one of my favorites. Hope you enjoy :) Listen to more episodes of Kegels and Coffee!kegelsandcoffee.com We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steven-on-kegels-and-coffee

I often get asked, “what is your favorite interview you’ve ever done?” Firstly, I don’t have a favorite. But if I HAD TO CHOOSE ONE, it would be this episode. Alan Watts is a fascinating character in climbing history and a personal hero of mine. This interview was such a treat. I loved revisiting it for this repost. Enjoy!*This episode was originally published in EP 04, in February 2020.Alan Watts is widely regarded as the founding father of Smith Rock, and was a key player in the development of sport climbing in America. He established the first 5.13d in America with ‘East Face Crack’ in 1985—just shy of the world standard. We talked about eating every other day, his paradigm shift from freeing aid climbs to face climbing, wearing Wolfgang’s shirt, meeting Adam Ondra, and his “little slice of contribution” to the sport of climbing. Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alan-watts-repostNuggets:0:09:16 – The evolution of dirtbagging, early road life, Smith as a safe zone, “there were no routes”0:14:07 – Eating every other day0:26:47 – Abstainers vs moderators0:31:02 – Bill Ramsey, UO, and climbing “every variation imaginable” at the Columns0:36:03 – Connecting with the people you need0:38:40 – Inferiority complex and pushing to improve0:40:04 – A paradigm shift from freeing aid climbs to climbing faces0:46:11 – Stumbling upon sport climbing and going from being a decent climber to a really good climber0:48:29 – Redpoint tactics, ethics, and borrowing from the Europeans0:52:39 – ‘Corner No. 1’, how ‘Chain Reaction’ got its name, and reaching the world standard at Smith Rock0:54:28 – 11b to 13d in six years, ‘Punks in the Gym’, and pushing world standards0:55:44 – Meeting Heinz Zak and Wolfgang’s t-shirt0:58:52 – Pioneering Smith Rock film by Hydro Flask, and going back to the summer of ’85, and ‘East Face Crack’ 5.13d1:04:01 – Other hard crack climbs and ‘Double Stain’1:05:25 – 7 days prepping ‘Sunshine Wall’ and the story of ‘To Bolt or Not to Be’1:11:34 – Climbing every day, injuries, and killing the goose that laid the golden eggs1:22:15 – Hip surgery and meeting Adam Ondra1:31:00 – Adam’s post about meeting Alan, and Adam’s onsight of ‘Just Do It’ 5.14c1:36:52 – Adam’s photo book (Alan-“What the hell? How did I make the cut?”)1:38:17 – The Awl project, “I do not want to FAIL!”1:40:44 – Bolting futuristic projects, thinking anything was possible, and bolting ‘Just Do It’ for a TV show in 19891:48:23 – “I used to visualize before that was what you were supposed to do”1:52:00 – “Fucking hard green route”1:54:15 – Alan’s finger strength, hanging from one hand for (almost) a minute, and gym vs. outdoor climbing2:01:18 – The updated Smith Rock guidebook2:02:26 – Alan’s box of tights2:05:20 – The 100 book list and projecting difficult books2:10:27 – Working on the guidebook and connecting with the people2:15:19 – The (lack of) ways to connect with Alan2:17:01 – A slice of contribution in a little tiny sport2:19:53 – “He’s cheating”, and Alan’s funny recurring dream

Alita Contreras is back on the podcast! We talked about her Fall project in the Red River Gorge, the lessons that routes can teach us, and a film project that she is currently working on with her friend Elisa Varlotta called Guerreras. The film will feature Colombian women and the beautiful local climbing in Colombia.Support the Guerreras GoFundMe!http://gofund.me/47f5487dFollow on Instagram!@guerreras.film@alitaclimbing@elisa_varlotta

Merch is here! I am SO excited about how the "hello friends" series turned out. Check out the Nugget shop for t-shirts, hoodies, and hats. All Patrons get free shipping!Buy Merch!thenuggetclimbing.com/shopBecome a Patron and get free shipping!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Alayna Joy is a queer content creator and YouTuber, and newly obsessed climber. We talked about her journey of discovering she is gay, coming out publicly on her already-successful YouTube channel, how climbing has become an anchor for her, compulsory heterosexuality, questions we should ask ourselves, queerness in climbing, why our climbing progress slows down over time, and much more.Check out So Cards!socards.orgUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board!  We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alayna-joyNuggets:0:06:36 – Julio0:09:27 – Places that feel like home0:16:32 – Feeling like I already know Alayna from watching her channel, and parasocial relationships0:19:37 – Sharing her story to make others feel less alone0:21:39 – Starting her YouTube channel in high school, her first three videos, and hitting 800 subscribers0:27:30 – Working as a server during university, and getting her first YouTube brand deal0:31:38 – The phenomenon of being an introvert and a content creator0:34:39 – Bisexuality, and the first time Alayna came out0:37:54 – Being in a serious relationship with a man, and feeling disconnected from her queerness0:42:54 – Coming out to her partner as gay, and talking herself out of it0:46:25 – The constant little voice in her head convincing her she was happy0:48:08 – “The big oopsie”0:51:26 – Being afraid that she was playing into bisexual stereotypes by coming out as gay0:54:41 – Compulsory heterosexuality (comp het), and why it took Alayna so long to realize she was gay0:58:08 – Why Alayna thought she was demiromantic for most of her adult life1:00:19 – Seeing the world through new eyes1:05:16 – “I’m in therapy, and I’M TIRED!”1:06:05 – Alayna pays me a very nice compliment, and I talk about drawing people in and hoping they learn something that goes beyond rock climbing1:10:43 – I come out as not a lesbian, and Alayna asks everyone listening to ask themselves a question1:12:54 – “Climbing is gay.”1:18:36 – How climbing became an anchor for Alayna1:21:17 – Working on her relationship with climbing1:23:32 – Making quick progress as climbers early on, why our progress slows over time, and the magic of climbing1:32:01 – The stories our brains tell us1:34:36 – So Cards! (socards.org, use code NUGGET for 20% off)1:36:29 – So Cards question 1: “If you never had to worry about money, what’s one goal that you would dedicate yourself to?”1:40:00 – So Cards question 2: “When you were a kid, what scared you about growing up?”1:46:05 – So Cards question 3: “What do you think people tend to take for granted in their relationships?”1:53:14 – You’re not alone, and living your life as your most authentic self1:56:00 – Patron question from Wren: How was your experience finding a queer community within the larger climbing community, and do you have any tips for queer climbers finding these spaces?2:00:26 – Where to find Alayna on the internet

Todd Perkins is one of those local legends who you’ve probably never heard of. That is unless you’ve climbed on some of his routes around St George, Utah. We talked about growing up in the Mormon church, the mind-opening effects of cannabis, climbing his first 5.14 in the 90s and maintaining that level for 25 years, near-death experiences, the intelligence of the cosmos, aliens, and much more.Support the Access Fund!accessfund.org/donateCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/todd-perkinsNuggets:0:05:22 – Todd’s pancake beta0:08:29 – Growing up in the Mormon church0:10:40 – Cannabis0:17:50 – Solar-powered weed smoking0:19:41 – “Get down from there!” and how Todd got introduced to climbing0:23:08 – Getting into route development in the 90s, and learning from Jorge Visser and Randy Leavitt0:28:34 – Developing routes at the Cathedral,0:31:26 – Climbing Planet Earth at the VRG, and progressing from 12a to 14a (7a+ to 8b+) in two years0:33:18 – Chris Sharma’s psych for climbing as a 15-year-old kid0:35:07 – Longevity, gratitude, and being present0:39:08 – Setbacks, trying Golden for a Moment 14b (8c), and using a portable fan 20 years ago0:45:51 – Coming back from hip surgery and other setbacks0:48:28 – More about being present0:56:00 – What motivates Todd in his climbing these days0:57:52 – Having an out-of-body experience on Planet Earth, and other most meaningful ascents0:59:24 – My (Steven’s) two hardest routes and how different those experiences were, and Todd’s thoughts on mental tenacity1:05:24 – Adventure in sport climbing and route development, and Todd’s near-death experience1:11:01 – Spirituality, the intelligence of the cosmos, and the goods and bads of religion1:16:15 – Steven shares some thoughts on the damaging parts of growing up in a religion1:19:37 – What Todd learned from studying Buddhism1:21:00 – Aliens1:33:14 – Nuclear testing in the 50s and 60s1:36:48 – Why Todd never left St George1:39:07 – Plans to try Flight of the Conchords 14c (8c+) this winter1:42:27 – Trusting your intuition, getting lots of sleep, and not pushing too hard1:47:07 – Wrap up, and we should all spend more time thinking about something other than climbing

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Amity Warme. We talked about sending The Honeymoon Is Over on the Diamond during a hailstorm, and we covered the highlights and lessons from her spring season in Yosemite.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:25:59.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAmity’s Original Episode:EP 104: Amity Warme

Katie Lamb is one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her early climbing and falling in love with bouldering, climbing her first V14 and what led to her breakthrough in the last two years, projecting tips, superpowers, lifting weights, balancing training with outdoor climbing, what it will take for her to reach the next level, and working in climate data science.Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board!  We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/katie-lambNuggets:0:05:35 – Getting over being sick, and covid0:09:40 – Sewing0:14:51 – Katie’s lifted Toyota Prius0:18:17 – Her background in sport climbing, falling in love with bouldering, and why she quit competing0:24:05 – Katie’s progression during college from V10 to V140:25:12 – Katie’s climbing philosophy0:28:12 – External pressure vs. internal motivation, and Katie’s experience on Jade V14 (8B+)0:31:11 – The great paradox of performance climbing0:31:59 – Katie’s first V13 (8B), Nothin But Sunshine0:34:22 – Her summer of 2019, and adventure bouldering0:42:37 – Katie’s accomplishments in the past two years, and what she attributes her breakthrough to0:46:01 – Focused sessions, and diving into the nitty gritty0:47:35 – Getting better, getting stronger, and having more time0:50:23 – The balance of indoor training and outdoor climbing0:51:19 – Katie’s superpowers, and growing an inch in her 20s0:54:57 – The mechanics of crimping0:58:58 – Patron question from Justin: How much time does Katie spend trying things that are in her style vs. outside of her style?1:01:32 – What drives Katie to pick specific projects1:02:10 – Injuring her finger in June of 2022, and rehabbing in Rocklands1:08:57 – Sending Book Club V14 (8B+) less than two months after her finger injury1:13:49 – Balancing projecting with quick ticks1:16:41 – Why making excuses can be helpful1:21:08 – Playing the long game with projecting, and going easy on herself1:22:29 – How Katie is training for the next level1:24:27 – Lifting weights1:30:20 – The Never Ready1:31:21 – What will it take for Katie to climb V15?1:34:13 – Patron question from Jacob: When are we going to see a female ascent of V16?1:37:22 – Balancing professional climbing with working in climate science, and how Katie created flexibility in her job1:44:53 – Working in climate data science1:47:25 – What Katie wishes more people knew about climate1:48:40 – What we can do on an individual level to affect the climate (Katie’s answer might surprise you!)1:50:40 – Where our electricity comes from, and the fossil fuel industry1:53:27 – How climate change is putting our electrical grid at risk1:54:51 – Hopeful things happening in climate1:56:43 – How climbers can be leaders in the climate movement1:58:28 – Wrap up

Marisa Michael is a registered dietitian nutritionist with 20 years of experience who specializes in eating disorders in athletes and climbers. We talked about the characteristics of eating disorders, the line between eating for performance and disordered eating, why losing weight won’t make you climb harder, recommendations for climbers and youth athletes, intuitive eating, Marisa’s sweet tooth, and much more.Eating Disorders Helpline:nationaleatingdisorders.org/help-support/contact-helplineListen to more top nutrition episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/marisa-michaelNuggets:0:05:03 – What Marisa had for breakfast0:07:04 – Overview of the conversation to come0:08:37 – The difference between a registered dietitian and a nutritionist0:11:03 – Working with athletes and disordered eating in her practice0:12:32 – Why Marisa chose to specialize in working with athletes who struggle with disordered eating0:15:13 – What Marisa hopes to accomplish in this episode0:17:03 – A bit about my (Steven’s) experience with disordered eating and the biggest question I have for Marisa0:18:44 – What distinguishes an eating disorder or disordered eating?0:23:33 – Discipline and eating for performance vs. disordered eating… Where is the line?0:30:13 – Personifying your eating disorder0:31:57 – How my mindset shifted from self-care to anxiety after losing weight0:35:27 – Discipline doesn’t have to mean ignoring your body cues0:36:25 – What the data says about weight and climbing performance, and why we should all calm down about weight0:38:02 – One thing that might have prevented my eating disorder if I had known them sooner0:39:38 – BMI and finger injuries, and disordered eating in elite climbers0:41:38 – Is weight cycling ever appropriate?0:45:48 – Another thing I wish I had known sooner, and breaking training PRs this summer0:49:03 – Food is fuel, and it’s also more than fuel0:49:58 – “It depends”0:52:03 – Intuitive Eating as a framework0:54:11 – The 10 principles of Intuitive Eating0:56:23 – How to navigate our modern food environment with Intuitive Eating (so you don’t eat Oreos for breakfast)1:01:41 – Marisa’s sweet tooth and she navigates it1:04:52 – Is it ok to celebrate with food after a send?1:06:35 – Marisa’s thoughts on “moderators” and “abstainers”, and the plate of cookies example1:11:57 – How restricting leads to bingeing1:17:04 – Marisa’s general eating recommendations, and recommended macros for climbers1:20:17 – Food timing1:22:03 – Intermittent fasting: yay or nay?1:23:45 – Patron question from Karl: How do you navigate intuitive eating if you don’t get hungry?1:25:15 – How to calculate your daily energy needs1:27:19 – Patron question from Shawn: How do we get enough protein in a healthy way?1:29:10 – Marisa’s thoughts on eating meat1:31:47 – Marisa’s thoughts on eating fat1:32:47 – Patron question from Vicente: Prefered supplements?1:36:47 – Patron question from Jaime: Any tips on how to lose body fat for people who are stuck?1:38:05 – Marisa’s thoughts on the ketogenic diet1:41:57 – Marisa’s thoughts on veganism and vegetarianism1:44:38 – Patron question from Cody: What is a good starting point for someone who is trying to heal an unhealthy relationship with food?1:47:22 – Patron question from Wren: How can all climbers contribute to a healthy environment surrounding food/body image?1:51:13 – How to respond to jokes about food restriction1:53:39 – Are there any foods we should avoid?1:55:43 – Marisa’s master’s thesis, studying eating patterns in youth climbers, and recommendations for parents and coaches2:00:58 – Favorite pre-climbing snack2:02:08 – How important is protein before or during climbing/training?2:03:31 – Studying amenorrhea in female IFSC athletes2:07:47 – “Eat enough.”2:08:53 – Wrap up

Matt Heyliger, DPT is one of the most knowledgeable people I’ve talked to when it comes to climbing-related injuries and rehab. We talked about climbing together in Ten Sleep, how he is currently helping me treat carpal tunnel syndrome, how to achieve long-term health and performance, his skiing injury and the eyeball story, top recommendations for climbers, lessons from living in Spain, and much more.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be  We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-heyligerNuggets:0:06:01 – Camping iterations0:08:29 – Daughters, and fairy house construction0:10:06 – Spending a year in Spain, landing in Red Lodge Montana, and the bear den story0:14:13 – Moose battles, and mountain biking0:15:29 – The campsite, and our cold weather sends0:18:53 – An introduction to Matt and his path to physical therapy0:26:31 – How Matt diagnoses an injury (using my carpal tunnel as an example), and what Matt noticed about my shoulder mechanics0:38:54 – The skill of injury assessment0:40:15 – Tissue capacity vs. biomechanics, and ironing out issues early on in your climbing0:45:35 – Why you should pick up heavy stuff0:47:26 – Combining loading and optimal mechanics for long-term health and performance0:49:41 – The path forward for me to fix my carpal tunnel0:55:21 – Matt’s thoughts on manipulations and chiropractic work0:59:46 – Imaging in diagnosing injuries, and when imaging can be overused1:01:36 – Getting attached to a diagnosis1:04:06 – A bit about pain science, and the importance of hope1:06:48 – Language cues and mindset1:10:16 – How chest opening and mobilizing the thoracic spine will likely help fix my carpal tunnel1:12:12 – How to get my lower trapezius firing again, and the role of dry needling1:16:59 – My rehab plan for Hueco1:19:15 – Matt’s hopes for me in returning to Ten Sleep next year1:22:22 – Why mobility comes before strength1:25:26 – When to fit stretching into your schedule1:28:36 – Antagonist training, finger loading, and having a rest day movement activity1:32:23 – Yoga recommendations for climbers, and having a simple movement practice1:38:27 – The eyeball story1:58:16 – Spain2:05:01 – Embracing the slower pace2:08:46 – Work-life balance, and the emotional investment of doing work that you love2:16:36 – Matt’s vision for his PT business2:18:53 – Where to connect with Matt (mattheyliger.com)2:19:56 – How to find a good PT2:22:43 – Matt’s current climbing goal, and getting excited about performance climbing2:29:35 – Wrap up

Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans to train for Burden of Dreams V17, considering our environmental impact as climbers, and much more. *He sent Alphane V17 two weeks after this interview. Congrats Aidan!!!Listen to more top bouldering episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/aidan-robertsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:06:13) – Seasons are shifting(00:08:52) – Prepping for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17 (9A), and setting his replica(00:11:44) – Trying Alphane, and bullet points(00:13:10) – We’ve already planned on a round 2!(00:15:23) – Crushing hard boulders to Elton John, and finding focus through relaxation(00:19:43) – Aidan’s first trip to the Rocklands and leaving competitions behind(00:26:01) – How Aidan developed his style, and how he thinks about training his weaknesses(00:28:02) – Differences among top boulderers, what Aidan learned from climbing with Dave Graham, and the shared trait of perseverance(00:36:10) – Aidan’s climbing style, high-angle crimps, and leg crimping(00:42:41) – How Aidan’s style is different from how Shawn Raboutou climbs(00:46:38) – Redefining what it means to be strong, and making your training specific(00:47:56) – Aidan’s thoughts on why none of the current V17’s (9A’s) have been repeated yet(00:50:18) – Getting away from “simple tasks” and reductionism in training(00:56:24) – How Aidan got so good at his style of climbing and high-angle crimping(01:03:07) – Discovering sling testing with Dan Varian, and training with mono slings(01:07:23) – Summary of how Aidan got so good at his climbing style(01:09:28) – Training in a high-angle position, and how he strengthened his index fingers(01:11:37) – Aidan’s pinkie strength, and testing with Ollie Torr(01:16:09) – How strong is Aidain on the Beastmaker 2000 center edge?(01:18:09) – Why simple finger strength testing doesn’t necessarily apply to our finger strength on the rock(01:22:19) – More about training his index fingers(01:26:21) – Quality and applicability in training(01:28:08) – “There is no rapid magic formula for finger strength”(01:29:07) – How Aidan approaches a project, and collecting bullet points for each move(01:35:01) – Aidan’s pre-send rituals(01:39:01) – Using bullet points to set the replica for Alphane, carving wooden holds, and measuring moves(01:45:59) – Training his legs for Alphane, and Copenhagen planks for abductors(01:47:50) – Using feet follow rules on his board(01:49:57) – Climbing Alphane from two moves in, and how to train for long boulders on a home wall or board(01:59:28) – Going to Finland to try Burden of Dreams V17 (9A), and what he learned from trying it(02:09:49) – Mastery(02:14:17) – Plans to train for Burden of Dreams(02:19:37) – Screwdriver injury(02:22:17) – Aidan’s philosophy with training on replicas, and climbing Isles of Wonder Sit V16 (8C+)(02:27:21) – Balancing highly specific training (replicas) with other training(02:29:48) – Aidan’s formula for goal setting (result, reality, and response)(02:33:09) – His goal setting formula applied to Alphane(02:36:37) – Influence and contribution, and Aidan’s podcast and magazine(02:42:13) – Traveling, and considering our environmental impact as climbers(02:52:24) – Thinking about offsetting my CO2 for my trip to Rocklands next summer(02:55:39) – Plans to live in the US for a year(02:57:21) – Wrap up

Robbie Phillips is a professional adventure climber and filmmaker from Scotland. We talked about his recent trip to the Western Isles of Scotland, his path from competitions to adventure climbing, top rope soloing to project hard routes, things he learned from climbing with Dave MacLeod, processing grief, capturing memories through filmmaking, and much more. Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/robbie-phillipsNuggets:0:07:14 – The Suzuki photo shoot, broken car, and tea without milk0:10:00 – Onsighting the podcast0:10:34 – Robbie’s recent trip to St. Kilda0:16:15 – Rock types and the style of climbing in the Western Isles of Scotland0:21:08 – Climbing a sea cliff in Dùn0:26:27 – Robbie’s path from competition climbing to adventure climbing0:35:12 – Climbing Bellevista 13d/14a (8b/+) in the Dolomites0:38:56 – Imposter syndrome, and not being a natural at bold adventure climbing0:40:48 – Being good at suffering0:42:26 – Following the psych0:45:10 – Patron question from Christoph: How does Robbie train for hard trad climbing specifically?0:47:47 – What We Do in the Shadows E10 (14b/8c)0:50:19 – The E grading system, and why Robbie isn’t a big fan of that system0:55:20 – Indian Creek, and Robbie’s first day “flailing around” in Yosemite0:57:06 – Patron question from Christoph: What does Robbie do to steel his mind for scary leads?1:00:08 – Robbie’s almost life-altering accident when he started trad climbing, and the lesson he learned1:03:44 – Breakdown of What We Do in the Shadows1:11:06 – The process of projecting the route, his dad passing away, and the darkest period of his life1:18:37 – How Robbie’s mom is doing now1:20:32 – Robbie’s dad1:26:32 – A few things Robbie learned from projecting with Dave MacLeod1:33:46 – Why Robbie prefers working projects via top rope solo, and why he loves the Taz LOV31:49:02 – Balancing performance with having fun1:53:52 – The Long Hope, and fulmars2:02:06 – Robbie’s filmmaking, and capturing memories2:14:18 – How Robbie makes a living2:16:10 – I respect all the other podcasters!2:17:02 – Why the new Long Hope film was so fun to work on, and entering it in the Kendal Mountain Festival2:22:02 – Patron question from GeneO: Why does Robbie consider himself a professional climber but not a professional athlete?2:24:59 – Upcoming climbing goals2:28:02 – Does Robbie want to try Lexicon?2:30:34 – Wrap up

Tommy Caldwell is the most accomplished big wall free climber alive. He is best known for having free climbed The Dawn Wall, the most difficult big wall free route in the world. We talked about his achilles injury, doing the FA of Flex Luthor, training for V12 boulder problems on The Dawn Wall, undone lines on El Cap, exploring the limits of human endurance, being vulnerable through writing a book, parenting, and much more.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tommy-caldwellNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:07:08) – What is your Dawn Wall?(00:07:59) – Tommy’s injury and his canceled trip to Germany(00:09:53) – Tommy’s Instagram post about his injury, why he shared it, and creating accountability(00:15:21) – Trying Magic Line and what Tommy’s climbing looks like these days (pre-injury)(00:17:35) – Why El Cap is so significant to Tommy, and his time spent at the Fortress of Solitude in CO(00:20:17) – Bringing his adventure mindset to bolting and climbing Kryptonite and Flex Luthor(00:23:05) – Matty Hong’s repeat of Flex Luthor, and Tommy’s thoughts on the grade(00:25:20) – The differences between Chris Sharma and Tommy, and trying Biographie (first 5.15a/9a+) with Chris(00:28:48) – Similarities between El Cap and competition bouldering(00:30:04) – Why Tommy is drawn to “blue collar” climbing, and finding the niche that barely anyone wants to do(00:31:56) – Patron Question from Christoph: Why is/was Tommy so far ahead of everyone else when it comes to big wall free climbing?(00:34:00) – Patron Question from Atlin: What’s the next big objective that hasn’t been done in Yosemite?(00:35:16) – Leo Houlding’s vision for El Cap, and freeing the Passage to Freedom with Alex Honnold(00:38:46) – More free routes on El Cap, family time in Yosemite, and their yearly trip to Fontainebleau(00:41:13) – What made the difference the season he sent the Dawn Wall, and training for the V12 boulder problems on the crux pitches(00:46:42) – Will the Dawn Wall be climbed in a day?(00:47:55) – What did it feel like to see Adam Ondra send the Dawn Wall so quickly?(00:52:18) – Tommy’s TC Pro quiver, and wearing the same size shoe for everything(00:55:17) – Toenail fungus, and Tommy’s experience with Lamasil(00:58:59) – Making a living as a pro climber, and which parts have felt like work(01:01:15) – Writing the book, and how the book affected his relationship with his dad(01:08:38) – Tommy’s parenting philosophy, and Becca as “tiger mom”(01:12:13) – Patron Question from Eli: Tips for climber dads?(01:13:53) – Patron Question from John: Who taught Tommy vulnerability?(01:19:16) – Patron Question from TJ: How does Tommy keep the psych through injury?(01:20:40) – The story behind Tommy’s repeated achilles injury(01:25:25) – Does Tommy have things in climbing that feel undone?(01:27:22) – Bouldering projects around Estes, and climbing in Upper Chaos(01:29:26) – Is Tommy still improving at climbing?(01:30:27) – The king line on El Cap(01:34:45) – Future linkups in Yosemite(01:36:57) – Tommy’s favorite Disney movie(01:37:36) – Favorite snack for big walls/linkups, and the CUDL experience(01:40:19) – Exploring the limits of human endurance, and learning the logistics from ultra runners(01:42:35) – How hard does Tommy climb on the Moonboard?(01:42:58) – Big wall pooping stories(01:45:22) – Another book?(01:46:34) – What Tommy is trying to do with environmentalism, and the Oak Flat mine(01:49:31) – Wrap up

Lynn Hill is a living legend. She is best known for being the first person to free El Capitan via The Nose in 1993. We talked about what it is like to be Lynn Hill in the modern climbing world, her upbringing, what sets her apart, the story of freeing The Nose, tips for shorter climbers, her mindset and affirmations, self-belief, how she makes a living these days, upcoming video projects, and much more.Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/lynn-hillNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:06:27) – Lynn’s technique video(00:12:58) – How Lynn thinks about climbing technique(00:16:47) – The documentary Lynn is working on, and Lynn’s thoughts on Free Solo(00:18:53) – Having the vision to free climb The Nose(00:21:01) – What it feels like to be Lynn Hill, and why she likes her gates facing out(00:28:07) – Being famous before the internet(00:29:48) – Harrison Ford, and how to act toward famous people(00:33:33) – Being the first woman to climb 12d (7c), traveling to Europe in 1986, and learning French(00:38:01) – Finishing college, getting “kidnapped by climbing”, and her first sponsorship(00:42:33) – Being connected to the people who are pushing the sport forward, and Lynn's project with Sasha DiGiulian(00:50:24) – Who excites Lynn the most in climbing right now(00:56:22) – Why Lynn decided to try to free The Nose(01:00:33) – The reality of aging, and appreciating the journey(01:06:11) – Why The Nose was such a special experience(01:08:53) – Lynn’s visualization process, climbing her first 5.14 in France, and yawning before redpoint attempts(01:11:14) – Breathing and screaming(01:14:12) – Lynn’s process of freeing The Nose(01:23:41) – Projecting the Changing Corners pitch(01:28:11) – Going for it, and Brooke Sandahl’s role in The Nose going free(01:32:07) – Why Lynn decided to free The Nose in a day, and how she trained for it(01:35:56) – Her mindset for efficiency on The Nose, and sending during the full moon(01:40:01) – “It’s actually pretty strenuous…” and the Lynn Hill traverse(01:41:59) – Lynn’s height and ape index (5’1 1/4”, 0 ape index)(01:43:29) – Advice for shorter climbers(01:45:53) – First Ascent (Naked Edge film by Bob Carmichael), and the training Lynn was doing in the early 80s(01:53:14) – Lynn’s family upbringing, her temperament, and what sets her apart(01:55:58) – The “what if” game, and taking an unconventional path(01:59:07) – Lynn’s current sponsorships, and how she makes a living these days(02:03:09) – There are a lot of ways to make it as a pro climber(02:07:56) – Patron Question from Nick: What parts of climbing culture would you like to see maintained? What would you be happy to see disappear?(02:13:33) – Patron Question from Bradley: What do Lynn’s passions look like today?(02:15:23) – Patron Question from Jessica: Onsighting the FA of Mingus in 1994 in the Verdon(02:21:59) – Patron Question from Matt: What was it like climbing on The Nose with Nina Caprez? Are you mentoring any other women?(02:29:07) – Building ab strength after having a baby, and Lynn’s replica of the Changing Corners intro move(02:32:20) – Other women Lynn has mentored(02:33:51) – Patron Question from Craig: Who have you climbed with that had amazing footwork?(02:36:12) – Patron Question from Christoph: Can Lynn speak about the mental side of pushing boundaries?(02:41:32) – Patron Question from Emily: How did Lynn learn to be independent from the limiting gendered cues coming from society at the time in order to realize her true potential?(02:44:33) – Lynn’s positive affirmations, challenging societal norms as a teenager, and seeing injustice in the world(02:51:12) – Patron Question from Mark: Have women reached parody in climbing? If not, what can be done?(02:58:45) – What Lynn is most excited about right now, her Italian name, and the value of learning other languages(03:02:26) – Feeling excited about her new route on The Maiden, and ideas for her next trip to France(03:05:32) – More about the documentary Lynn is working on(03:09:04) – Where to buy “It goes boys” shirts, and signed photos from Lynn!(03:11:01) – Lynn’s plans for Hueco

My close friend Taylor Fragomeni joins me for Q&A 6! We talked about ways to improve your climbing if your access to the gym or crag is limited, and we tackled Patron questions about bouldering at night, best bang-for-your-buck strength exercises, beta videos, daily hangboarding, how to warm up for max hangs on a lifting day, and route and boulder pyramids.We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig LeeBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-6Nuggets:0:00:00 – Introducing Taylor!0:03:00 – Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited:0:03:00 – Metal Game0:06:09 – Watching Videos0:09:55 – Visualization0:13:29 – Decision Maps (and having a backup plan)0:23:43 – Adding Stability Elements to Strength Exercises0:28:37 – Getting Creative0:29:41 – One-Time Coaching Calls0:30:24 – How to connect with Tay!0:30:59 – Patron Questions:0:30:59 – Hakan’s Question: Any nuggets for nighttime bouldering sessions?0:36:42 – Cody’s Question: Training recommendations for a 5.10 mountain guide, and biggest bang-for-your-buck strength training exercise for climbing?0:43:19 – Justin’s Question: How often do you look at other people's beta videos when you're trying a boulder or sport climb? Do you ever avoid them on purpose?0:49:57 – Toby’s comment and the benefit of taking notes on podcasts/books/etc0:57:06 – Sytse’s Question: Do you still do Emil Abrahamsson’s twice-a-day hangboard protocol?1:00:26 – Murpheys_law24: How do you warm up for max hangs on a lifting day?1:04:25 – Briana’s Question: Do “old sends” count for your current pyramid? And thoughts on the 1-2-4-8-16 pyramid vs. 1-3-9-27?

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! I sat down with Ned Feehally to cover questions I wish I had asked him in our first episode. We talked about Ned’s three different protocols for Max Hangs, why he thinks 20-seconds hangs are best for long-term strength gains, when to use each of his different protocols, how I have incorporated his advice into my own finger training, and much more! Join us for more finger training geekery!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:39.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingNed’s Original Episode:EP 113: Ned Feehally

Drew Ruana is back on the podcast and is joined by his friend Cameron Hörst, who is one of the best young sport climbers in the country. We talked about lessons they’ve each learned from recent sends, what it was like growing up as kid crushers, training for bouldering vs. sport climbing, how to stay strong while projecting, Drew’s thoughts on climbing V18, and Cam’s thoughts on climbing 5.15c.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/drew-and-cameronNuggets:0:06:31 – What they climbed on today0:07:59 – Drew’s skin injury in Bishop back in 20200:09:38 – Cam’s bouldering trip to CO, and plans to do more bouldering0:12:04 – Why Drew pivoted to bouldering0:14:38 – Why ‘The Ice Knife’ and ‘Dire Wolf’ stand out to Drew0:18:58 – How Drew balances hard projects with quick ticks, and trying ‘Megatron’ V17 for 70+ days0:23:57 – Cam’s experiences climbing ‘Bone Tomahawk’ 15a and ‘Resisting Arrest’ 14d0:27:43 – Training mode for Big Claw 14d0:30:00 – Patron question from Tristan: For Drew, what are 1-3 things you’ve learned from doing so many hard boulders in CO?0:34:23 – What keeps the fire burning for Drew, and the drug rush of sending a new hard boulder0:36:36 – How many V16s are there in the world?0:37:22 – Drew’s thoughts on switching back to sport climbing, and how many 5.15s there are in the US0:41:53 – The Grand Illusion0:44:15 – Taking a gap year to try to climb 5.15, and what Cam learned from climbing with Joe Kinder and doing ‘Bone Tomahawk’0:49:57 – Patron question from Howard: Cam, what position did you play in high school football? Did any skills from football transfer to climbing?0:52:35 – Having a team (or climbing partner) who builds you up0:54:59 – Wes Schweitzer (NFL offensive lineman)1:00:23 – Patron question from Xander: Cam, do you still play football? Did you train for climbing during football season?1:03:58 – How team sports helped make Cam a well-rounded athlete, and being exposed to lots of different things growing up1:07:13 – Drew and Cam’s thoughts on their different upbringings as kid climbers1:13:50 – Patron question from Eli: What did they love/hate about being kid crushers? What do they appreciate about how their parents handled their climbing lives?1:19:02 – Patron question from Christoph: Cam, what was it like having a famous coach as a dad? And Cam’s plans to carry the torch1:23:48 – Patron question from Xander: How do you balance training and sending? Do you cycle between training and sending, or can both happen concurrently? (Drew’s bench press and pull-up numbers)1:29:22 – Drew’s thoughts on spending the last three years only focused on outdoor bouldering1:33:14 – Cam’s thoughts on the difference between training for bouldering vs. sport climbers, and how he balances training and performance cycles1:39:36 – Drew’s thoughts on maintaining his aerobic base when focusing on bouldering1:46:25 – Patron question from Bryce: I’m about to hit the road for a year. Should I mix in training to keep my strength up?1:49:52 – The guys give me their recommendations for keeping my strength up on a three-month sport climbing trip1:54:28 – Cam’s goal to climb 5.15b (9b), what it would take for him to climb 15c (9b+), and plans for his career2:00:35 – Drew’s thoughts on what it will take for him to climb V182:06:58 – Drew’s recent FA of Distortion V16, and plans to climb more V16s2:12:13 – Cam’s plans for the Fin Cave2:13:24 – Drew’s thoughts on his career2:17:33 – Flow state2:19:39 – Who Cam is most impressed by in climbing2:21:31 – Who Drew is most impressed by in climbing

Dan Varian is an elite boulderer from the UK and the cofounder of Beastmaker. We talked about a finger strength test that Dan had me do, how to measure the load distribution across our fingers, silver bullets in finger strength, how to activate lazy fingers, why Dan is focusing his training on high angle crimps, his recommendations for me, and wrist training for Fontainebleau.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board!  We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dan-varianNuggets:0:08:04 – Building dens out of cushions0:10:36 – Dan’s resume0:13:12 – Moving from Sheffield, playing the training game with his limited time, and detail over vagueness0:18:05 – How the strength flows through your hand, and the starting point of people’s training0:19:06 – Climbing as a fledgling sport, having plenty of room to improve our training quality, and Dan and Aidan’s attention to detail0:20:33 – The value of training with like-minded people, and the many different rock types in the UK0:23:28 – Blunderbus vs rifle, and mentoring Aidan Roberts0:26:40 – Aidan’s pinkie strength, and why the sling test is a valuable assessment tool0:32:36 – Who Adian is, and an introduction to high angle crimps0:35:49 – Silver bullets in finger strength, and specializing in specific styles0:39:25 – Clarification of the high angle crimp position0:41:34 – The sling test, and my takeaways from my results0:45:24 – Dan’s interpretation of my results, and my two lazy fingers which are lacking silver bullets0:49:07 – My goals as they relate to finger training0:52:32 – My climbing background and how that explains my results0:55:36 – A pinkie mono demonstration from Dan0:59:23 – Three-finger drag, wrist movement, and different grip positions for different rock types and routes vs. boulders1:03:28 – What Dan thinks I should focus on with my finger strength for sport climbing1:04:29 – Summary of the takeaways from my finger testing, and Dan’s guesses about my climbing based on the numbers1:07:09 – My pinkie in the half crimp1:10:02 – How to activate lazy fingers on the hangboard, and why the Beastmaker hangboards look the way they do1:12:35 – Dan’s strength on three-finger drag, why it doesn’t apply to small crimpy holds and boulders, and how we are all working on our own things1:14:56 – Dan’s advice for me to strengthen my pinkies and middle fingers1:17:37 – How my finger strength compares to Dan’s, and what he is working on with his finger training1:19:21 – Why Dan thinks I should train my lazy fingers on the hangboard instead of lifting off the floor1:30:24 – Dan’s recommended protocol for me to activate my lazy fingers1:35:52 – Stealing ideas from arm wrestlers, and why Dan loves Fontainebleau1:38:53 – Meeting Tim Doyle in Font1:39:57 – Focusing on weaknesses vs. strengths, and trying to tick the county1:46:35 – Dan’s top finger training exercise recommendation1:48:11 – Dan’s thoughts on wrist training1:53:01 – Meat hooks and kneebars1:59:19 – Why Dan wishes he had focused on building an athletic foundation as a younger athlete2:03:34 – Dan’s training goals, his thoughts on the campus board, and goal boulders in the Lakes2:13:13 – Potential topics for a round 2 (let us know what you want to hear more about!)2:15:02 – Dan’s final thoughts on splitting the grip and waking up lazy fingers2:16:49 – Dan’s goals for me with my finger training

Alice Hafer is a climber, writer, and coach who specializes in mind power training. We talked about climbing her first 5.14s, her experiences with depression and anxiety and how she changed her own mind through mental training, finding an identity outside of climbing, tips for staying motivated, focusing on effort over outcomes, and using box jumps to train for climbing power.Listen to more top episodes about Mind/Mindset!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alice-haferNuggets:0:05:35 – Perfectionism in writing and interviewing0:09:30 – What Alice learned from her friend Brad Gobright0:13:05 – Using second-tier routes to stretch our comfort zone0:14:07 – “Fear is a signal that you are becoming a better climber.”0:16:45 – Getting covid twice in three weeks0:18:03 – Setting boundaries for ourselves, and reaching our higher selves0:20:27 – What expectations are0:21:05 – Patron question from Ryan: Can you share a favorite story about Brad Gobright?0:26:51 – Alice’s climbing journey, getting sick after her trip to Madagascar, her dad’s stroke, and carrying emotional weight0:34:23 – How her relationship with climbing has evolved, and seeing Brad’s passion for climbing0:37:00 – Pro climbers aren’t always sending, and passion and motivation0:39:42 – How Jonathan Siegrist stays psyched, thinking smaller within our constraints, and pivoting0:45:34 – Living in the UK, and being most comfortable with what you spend the most time doing0:49:33 – “Who am I outside of climbing?”0:52:31 – Finding a new identity, and Alice’s experience with depression0:58:35 – Detaching your identity from whatever you are dealing with, and changing your thought and behavior patterns1:02:42 – Examining the three biggest beliefs you have about yourself, and valuing the climbing experience1:05:18 – Neuroplasticity, and rewriting our self-beliefs1:12:12 – Focusing on process over outcome1:15:55 – Climbing matters1:18:15 – Exposing yourself to new ideas, and saying “stop” to negative thoughts1:22:07 – “I have plenty of time.”1:23:55 – Setting clear and small goals, letting go of perfectionism, and giving ourselves permission to fail1:36:06 – Awareness, pausing, and intervening1:41:18 – Struggling with belonging, finding supportive friends, and putting your best effort forward1:46:03 – The pressure that comes with success, and focusing on becoming a better athlete1:54:47 – The value in trying hard projects1:57:42 – How Alice uses goals to give her focus1:59:10 – What Alice learned from trying Weekend at Bernies (5.14a or b)2:01:35 – Jonathan Siegrist’s 50:50 split, and why balancing projecting with sending easier routes is important for motivation2:05:19 – How Alice is training her weaknesses for Weekend at Bernies2:08:55 – Using box jumps to train power for climbing, and catching holds with a firm body2:13:01 – Thoughts on campusing vs. fast pull-ups for power2:15:35 – How little volume it takes to get stronger, and my story with pistol squats2:16:27 – Mental training for fast results, and how Alice sent her second 5.14 by focusing on effort2:20:23 – “You quit when you stop learning.”2:21:40 – Patron question from Fiona: Can we train our mental game? How do we measure progress?2:25:39 – Everyone needs something different when it comes to mental training2:26:41 – How to measure mental training progress2:29:00 – Where to connect with Alice2:30:43 – Alice’s final advice for listeners2:36:34 – Feeling like a superhero, and the story of sending her second 5.14

Sam Van Boxtel is a social media expert and the founder of Climbers Crag. We talked about the business side of being a content creator, why Instagram is the best platform for the climbing industry right now, the importance of having a strong “why”, why posts go viral, how to optimize for growth, creating value on social media, playing the game, and the balance between quality and success.Climbers Crag:climberscrag.comCheck out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Shortform!shortform.com/nuggetUse this link to get a free 5-day trial, and 20% off an annual subscription!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-van-boxtelNuggets:0:06:57 – Organizing the important stuff, and putting systems in place0:11:11 – Overview of our conversation0:13:30 – Soccer, discovering climbing, and losing 20-30 lbs to become a route setter0:17:14 – Sam’s ability to focus on his goals, and why he got into business0:20:03 – Moving up the chain with route setting0:22:20 – How Sam got into social media, and getting 1000+ followers in less than a month0:24:11 – The business side of being a content creator0:26:57 – Pivoting from route setting to starting Climbers Crag, and how Sam teamed up with Tom Randall0:37:03 – What Climbers Crag is today0:40:41 – The organic next step0:41:58 – Summary of everything so far, and Climbers Crag’s two main services as an agency0:45:47 – The Climber’s Crag team, and why Sam reduced the size of his team0:46:58 – Who this is worthwhile for, and having a strong “why”0:53:13 – The two categories of individuals trying to grow their Instagram following, and having a clear funnel0:59:17 – Why I decided to make the Nugget for a year before trying to monetize, and making sure you love 80-90% of what you’re doing1:01:45 – “Goodwill compounds faster than revenue.”1:02:19 – Virality and customer surplus1:06:13 – The sustainability/longevity of the different social media platforms, supply and demand, why reels go viral, and why Instagram is king1:12:41 – Why Sam pressed pause on TikTok for Climbers Crag1:18:25 – Real numbers for Instagram growth goals, and where Sam thinks brands should be with Instagram before adding another platform1:20:22 – Another summary, and using Instagram as a jumping-off point1:23:05 – Crux Academy, and why Sam tries to talk most of his clients out of trying to grow on YouTube1:24:54 – My current strategy for The Nugget’s Instagram, balancing viral, brand, and value posts, and having a CTA (call to action) strategy1:32:17 – Sam’s recommendations for me to grow to 100k followers, and the two factors for growth1:45:11 – Best practices for resharing content from an ethical standpoint1:50:08 – Best time of day to post1:52:15 – Hashtags, optimizing content for growth on Instagram, and removing exit points1:59:48 – Watchtime and engagement2:02:08 – Using Capcut for Reels2:05:09 – Playing the game, and the difference between quality and success on a social media platform2:12:13 – Hiding the vegetables2:13:30 – Wrap up and how to connect with Sam

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Jonathan Siegrist. We talked about his recent trip to Spain, sending Event Horizon 5.15b, training on his home wall, his 50:50 rule for projecting, how to train for sustained crux sections on sport routes, thoughts about The Fins Project, plans to move to France, and much more.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:32:46.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingJonathan’s Other Episodes:EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist (Apr 20, 2020)EP 36: Climb Strong Team (Sept 21, 2020)Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist (Nov 12, 2020)

Neil Gresham is a British climber and coach who has been at the cutting edge for over two decades. We talked about using ballet as part of his training for his FA of ‘Lexicon’ E11, the importance of developing your finishing game, extensor training for stronger fingers, go-to ring and TRX exercises, sticking our training in the bank, thumb crimping, climbing his first 5.14c (8c+) at age 45, and much more.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neil-greshamNuggets:0:05:45 – The Mythical Challenge0:18:15 – “Flitting” between different styles of climbing to keep motivation high0:20:25 – Improving two sport grades and one trad grade between the ages of 45 and 50, and what it would take to climb 9a (14d)0:24:49 – Feeling satisfied after climbing Lexicon (E11)0:27:33 – Olympians, and being a series of sliders0:30:08 – Lexicon breakdown, and Steve McClure’s 80-foot whipper0:39:10 – Why is bold trad climbing so glorified in the UK? And the “rules” for trad areas vs. bolted areas0:46:02 – Patron question from Elina, why Neil used ballet to train for Lexicon, and looking outside the box for ways to improve0:50:45 – Struggling to improve at climbing, and how that led to coaching0:58:52 – “People don’t realize how hard they can climb.”1:01:47 – Goal setting and finishing game1:06:33 – Getting more specific with your goals, and being willing to learn from each project1:12:19 – The tactical and psychological skills in redpointing, and how many of the top climbers just go climbing1:14:59 – Don’t expect your project to feel easy1:16:31 – Unlocking things on your project when you’re feeling weak1:21:24 – “Hard routes have been climbed in every conceivable mindset.” - Dave MacLeod1:22:57 – Patron question from Doug: What old-school training methods get overlooked nowadays? What modern training methods got overlooked back then?1:25:15 – Injury prevention, and extensor training for stronger fingers1:30:23 – Rings and TRX training1:32:42 – Neil’s go-to exercises on the rings/TRX, and feeling like an athlete after discovering rings training1:34:29 – How to combine extensor training with your other training and climbing, and Adam Ondra’s rule for antagonist training1:36:57 – Neil’s strength protocol for finger extensor training1:39:23 – How to incorporate rings or TRX training into your climbing and training, and finding the appropriate amount1:44:41 – Patron question from Jan: What should climbers who started at a later age (30s) focus on to improve, and would that be different from someone who started in their 20s?1:46:59 – Should beginners use hangboards?1:49:31 – How Neil and I both developed a weakness in the half crimp grip by avoiding the hangboard early on1:52:56 – “Stick the training in the bank.”1:56:58 – The way to make killer gains in your hangboarding: stop climbing! (And which types of climbers benefit from hangboarding)2:01:49 – Dan Varian from Beastmaker, and other people who have influenced Neil’s climbing and training2:02:59 – How to combine hangboarding with climbing to make gains over the long term2:06:51 – How Neil addressed his weakness in the half crimp, and his thoughts on full crimping on the hangboard2:11:08 – Thumb crimping2:14:37 – Pinkie wrapping three-finger crimps, and how everything we do should be built up incrementally2:16:34 – Why Neil’s climbing shot up between ages 45 and 502:23:33 – Neil’s golden rule in coaching, and taking breaks from structured training2:27:33 – Finding balance2:30:58 – A teaser for the keto diet conversation (let us know if you want to hear us talk about that!)2:31:39 – Where to connect with Neil

Dr. Rebecca Williams is a clinical psychologist, performance coach, and the author of Climb Smarter. We talked about the deeper fears that often underlie fear of falling, the underdeveloped self-soothing system, breathing exercises to reduce anxiety, pre-climb routines, meditation and mindfulness, and the benefits of shifting our focus from achievement to mastery.Climb Smarter:Buy on Amazon (best if you are in the US or Canada)Buy from Sequoia Books  (best if you are in the UK or Europe)Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Shortform!shortform.com/nuggetUse this link to get a free 5-day trial, and 20% off an annual subscription!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/rebecca-williamsNuggets:0:07:32 – Kids0:09:29 – Rebecca’s background in clinical psychology0:13:04 – Why Rebecca quit gymnastics as a teenager0:17:55 – How the mental blocks from gymnastics came back to haunt her as a climber0:20:17 – The deeper fears at the roots of fear of falling, and trust and control0:24:30 – Why it’s important to know where your fear of falling comes from, and the woman with the worm phobia0:28:32 – Diving deeper into different fears0:30:54 – Fear of fear, and learning to tolerate difficult feelings0:33:14 – Learning to tolerate difficult emotions0:37:09 – My (Steven’s) own experience with fear of falling when I started sport climbing, and tools for letting go of control0:44:16 – The overdeveloped drive and threat systems, and the underdeveloped self-soothing system0:46:32 – “We’re always conquering”, common narratives, and why fear of falling is rational0:53:16 – Rebecca’s mental warmup, and bringing arousal levels down0:58:30 – Not wanting to stray from “normal”1:03:04 – Introducing doubts to our assumptions1:08:38 – Breathing exercises to bring down arousal and anxiety1:14:31 – Pre-climb routines, focusing before a send attempt, and mindfulness as an attitude1:19:16 – Meditation and why it’s useful1:24:31 – What practicing mindfulness has done for me (Steven) and how it has impacted my life1:28:14 – “Falling practice is the last thing you do, and not the first thing you do.”1:30:01 – Does practicing non-attachment take away our drive? And shifting our focus from achievement to mastery1:33:00 – Why Rebecca decided to write her book Smart Climbing1:37:05 – The nutrition chapter of the book, and the link between perfectionism and eating disorders1:43:45 – What Rebecca is currently working on in her own climbing (related to mental game)1:48:07 – Who the book is for, and where to buy it1:49:25 – What’s next for Rebecca1:50:34 – Rediscovering your early excitement for climbing