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All Things Iceland

Discover Iceland’s language, history, culture, &amp; nature

Jewells Chambers

2026 marks 10 years since I moved to Iceland, which is honestly a little hard for me to believe.
I can still remember stepping off the plane, starting work, and feeling like my brain was being bombarded with things that seemed foreign or strange. Even hearing Icelandic names like Ása, Björn, and Arnbjörn took some getting used to.
https://youtu.be/AKL2qYEzEkU
Fast-forward a decade and so many of those things don’t even register as unusual anymore. They’re just…life.
Living in another country for this long has also made me realize how much our definition of “normal” is shaped by where we grow up. Things that initially made me think, People actually do this?! are now things I barely notice, and in some cases, things I do myself.
Here are 10 things that have become normal to me after living in Iceland for 10 years.
  
1. Letting Babies Nap Outside
This might be the biggest transformation of them all because I went from thinking this was absolutely bizarre to doing it with my own baby.
I learned about babies napping outside when I first visited Iceland in the winter of 2013. At the time, I couldn’t understand how people could possibly be comfortable leaving a baby outside to sleep.
Then I had a baby.
Halli’s mom showed us how to bundle her up properly so she could be warm while getting fresh air outside, and it completely changed the game for us. At one point, she could sleep for around three hours outside when an indoor nap might only last about 20 minutes.
It’s also something you regularly see in Iceland. You can walk through residential neighborhoods or even pass cafés in downtown Reykjavík and see a stroller outside with a sleeping baby while a parent or caregiver is nearby and checking on them.
Years ago, that sight would have immediately caught my attention.
Now? Completely normal.
  
2. Thinking 60°F (15°C) Is Warm
New York Jewells would like a word with current Jewells.
I moved to Iceland in June 2016, and I remember seeing Icelanders walking around in shorts, T-shirts, and sandals when it was about 60°F/15°C.
Meanwhile, I had on long pants, sneakers, a sweater AND a jacket. I genuinely thought, What is wrong with these people? This isn’t warm!
Then something happened. I acclimated!
After experiencing Icelandic winters and then feeling the temperature climb again, 60°F started feeling legitimately warm. If it’s around 60°F, sunny and, this is important, there’s no wind?
That’s practically tropical now. 
  
3. Accepting That Icelandic Summer Is Not Guaranteed
Growing up in New York, summer meant something. You knew it was going to get warm. Probably hot. Possibly way too hot!
Iceland technically has four seasons, but I’ve joked that we really have two: winter and summer. Halli says it’s more like winter and fall. 
The bigger adjustment was realizing that just because the calendar says “summer” doesn’t mean Iceland’s weather has agreed to participate.
You can have rainy, windy and chilly stretches where there’s plenty of daylight but hardly any actual sunshine. There have been summers when I felt cold for what seemed like the entire season.
It’s also no surprise that plenty of Icelanders escape somewhere warmer when Iceland isn’t delivering the summer weather they want.
Tenerife, anyone?
Icelandic summer exists. Whether it decides to show up is another question.
  
4. Living With 24-Hour Daylight
The nearly endless daylight of Icelandic summer is something I absolutely love now. When I first moved here?
Not so much.
My brain could not understand why I was supposed to be sleeping when it looked like the middle of the day outside. I tried sleeping with eye masks, but I didn’t find them particularly comfortable, and I constantly felt energized to stay awake and do things.
Eventually, though, my body adjusted. After a few years, I could sleep through Icelandic summers without thinking much about the daylight outside. Now I LOVE this part of living here.
Being able to go outside incredibly late at night and still have a bright sky is one of those Icelandic experiences that still feels special, even though it has become normal.
  
5. Living With the Very Short Days in Winter
Of course, Iceland likes extremes. If summer gives us almost endless daylight, winter gives us the opposite.
Around the shortest day of the year, we get only about four hours of daylight. And while the days technically start getting longer again after the winter solstice, those changes happen slowly enough that the darkness can feel like it lasts forever.
My first Icelandic winter was rough! I remember feeling like I was basically holding on until winter ended so I could finally experience that release of summer again.
And then came May 2017. Winter seemed to be over. I had made it!
And then…it snowed.
In May!
I was MAD. 
I felt personally betrayed by Icelandic weather. After surviving winter, snow in May felt like the weather was playing games with me.
Now, I understand that unexpected weather is simply part of living here. Snow showers can happen incredibly late in the season, and Icelandic weather has a mind of its own.
Over the years, I’ve also figured out what helps me through the dark months: getting outside, exercising, keeping myself occupied and usually having a big project to work on.
The first couple of winters required some serious adjustment. After that, I found a rhythm that works for me
  
6. Having Limited Produce Options
This is one thing I still REALLY notice when I leave Iceland.
The variety of fruits and vegetables available here can be limited compared with what I was accustomed to in the United States.
Sometimes you have a couple varieties of apples. Around Christmas, clementines and mandarins are everywhere. Other things appear periodically, but Iceland is an island that imports a significant amount of its produce, so we’re simply not going to have the same selection you’d find in a massive American supermarket.
And yes, you sometimes need to inspect that produce pretty carefully.
Then I go back to the U.S. and walk into a Whole Foods or Sprouts and practically lose my mind.
Peaches, plums, nectarines, different varieties of apples!
KALE!
The kale situation in Iceland particularly gets me because I’ve seen it grown here as decoration and I’m thinking, Can you please just put it in the grocery store so I can eat it?! 
Still, I’ve stopped viewing the limited selection as inherently negative. It’s simply part of living on an island.
And when I travel, I appreciate the variety elsewhere that much more
  
7. The Icelandic Stare
Ohhhh, the Icelandic stare!
Coming from New York, staring at strangers is generally not something you do. Then I moved to Iceland and suddenly people were LOOKING at me.
Not glancing, staring!
I’ve been told part of this comes from the small-town nature of Icelandic society. People might look at someone because they’re trying to figure out whether they recognize them or know their family. That took some serious getting used to.
There was one experience when I lived in Árbær where a woman drove past me while practically turning her head to continue staring at me. I remember wondering whether something was happening around me before realizing, Nope. She’s looking at me.
As a Black woman walking through a suburban Icelandic neighborhood, I couldn’t know whether she was simply curious, trying to recognize me, surprised to see someone who looked like me, or something else entirely.
Eventually, I developed a coping mechanism: Staring contests.
If you’re going to stare at me, I’m staring back. 😂
These days, though, I’ve mostly stopped noticing. I’ve got my New York blinders back on. Unless someone actually says something to me, I’m getting my groceries and going about my day.
Something that once made me incredibly uncomfortable has somehow become background noise.
  
8. Having Children Without Being Married
This was an interesting cultural shift for me because it wasn’t necessarily something I consciously decided to change my mind about.
I just absorbed a different idea of what family can look like. It’s very normal in Iceland for couples to build a life together, have children and not get married until much later, or potentially not marry at all.
When I first moved here, I was married and didn’t have children. After getting divorced, I certainly wasn’t thinking, I’m going to get into another relationship and have a baby before getting married.
But by the time that became part of my own life, it didn’t feel particularly strange anymore. There’s even an interesting linguistic element to this. Icelanders in long-term relationships might refer to their partner as konan mín (“my woman”) or maðurinn minn (“my man”) rather than using the equivalent of boyfriend or girlfriend.
People sometimes refer to unmarried partners as husband and wife in English, too, which still occasionally makes me want to clarify, We’re not married yet! 
It’s another example of how living somewhere else can quietly change the assumptions you didn’t even realize you had.
  
9. Not Tipping
Coming from the United States, this was a BIG adjustment.
Tipping is ingrained into so many everyday interactions in the U.S. that when I first started visiting Iceland, I kept thinking: Wait…aren’t we supposed to leave something extra?
Nope.
Tipping isn’t an obligation in Iceland or expected. If you have a wonderful guide or receive excellent service and want to give someone something extra, that’s your choice. But workers aren’t standing there expecting customers to supplement their income with a tip.
I’ve gotten so accustomed to not tipping that the culture shock has now reversed itself. When I go back to the United States, I have to remind myself to tip.
I once completely forgot that I was supposed to tip the attendants at a parking garage in Manhattan because that thought doesn’t exist in my everyday life anymore.
So this is one where I’ve gone full circle. What once felt strange in Iceland now feels normal, and what used to feel normal in America requires a conscious reminder.
  
10. Seeing the Northern Lights
This might be my favorite one.
The Northern Lights are normal to me now!
I still think they’re magical. If there’s an incredible aurora display happening, I absolutely want to see it. But if I look outside and there’s just a faint little green glow?
Eh, I’m probably staying in bed.
Ten-years-ago me would NEVER.
When I first moved here, I would get up at all hours for the possibility of seeing the Northern Lights. I wanted those huge, dramatic displays I’d seen in photographs. And those displays really do happen.
I’ve seen the aurora incredibly strong right from our backyard. Shortly before I gave birth, there was one display that was so intense that I jumped out of bed and ran outside to photograph it without even properly getting dressed first.
My mom was basically like, Girl, what are you doing?!
Listen. Priorities. 😂
Even after a decade, seeing really strong Northern Lights dancing across the sky in different colors can still blow me away.
But simply knowing that the aurora is part of winter? That’s normal life now.
  
What 10 Years of Living in Iceland Has Taught Me
When I look at these 10 things together, what’s fascinating isn’t necessarily the individual habits. It’s how much our idea of normal can change.
These were things that ranged from confusing to uncomfortable to downright bizarre to me when I first encountered them. Ten years later, many are so deeply integrated into my everyday life that I barely think about them anymore.
Maybe that’s one of the most interesting parts of living abroad long-term. You don’t simply learn about another culture. Little by little, parts of that culture become part of you.
Which brings me back to the question I used for this episode:
Am I Icelandic now? 😂🇮🇸 Not quite.
But after 10 years, Iceland has definitely rubbed off on me.
Random Icelandic Fact of the Episode 
Most Icelanders don’t have traditional family surnames in the way many other countries do.
Instead, Iceland commonly uses a patronymic or matronymic naming system based on a parent’s first name.
For example, if a man named Jón has a son named Einar, his son could be Einar Jónsson, essentially, Einar, Jón’s son. A daughter could be Anna Jónsdóttir, which is Anna, Jón’s daughter.
It’s also one reason first names play such an important role in Icelandic society. People generally address each other by their first names, including in situations where titles or surnames might be expected in other cultures.
It feels particularly appropriate for this episode because even Icelandic names were among the things that sounded unfamiliar to me when I first arrived. Now names like Ása and Björn don’t make me think twice.
Icelandic Word of the Episode: Venjast
The Icelandic word of this episode is venjast, which means “to get used to” or “to become accustomed to.”
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

10 Weird Things I Now Find Normal After Living in Iceland for 10 Years

Planning to rent a car in Iceland? Learn how Iceland’s new road tax works, why it was introduced, how it affects tourists, and how you can save money on your rental. I’ll also explain why not all rental car companies charge the fee the same way and share my recommendations after living in Iceland for the past 10 years.
One of the biggest reasons I recommend renting a car in Iceland is the freedom it gives you.
Some of my favorite memories have come from pulling over at an unexpected waterfall, taking a detour because someone mentioned a hidden canyon, or completely changing my plans after seeing that the weather was better in another part of the country.
Those spontaneous moments are often the highlights of an Iceland trip.
That’s why, when Iceland introduced a new road fee at the beginning of 2026, I immediately started getting questions from members of the All Things Iceland community.
People wanted to know:

What exactly is Iceland’s new road tax?
Why did Iceland introduce the road tax fee?
Does it apply to tourists?
How much will it cost?
Should I still rent a car?
How to budget for Iceland’s new road tax fee
How can you save on a rental car in Iceland?

If you’ve been wondering the same thing, you’re definitely not alone.
In this guide, I’ll explain everything you need to know about Iceland’s new road fee, including why it was introduced, how it works, how it affects tourists renting cars and camper vans, how different rental companies handle the fee, and some practical ways to save money while planning your Iceland road trip.
https://youtu.be/oqXebmLiA38		
What Is Iceland’s New Road Tax?
Although you’ll often hear people, including me, refer to it as Iceland’s new road tax, the official name is the kilometer fee, or kílómetragjald in Icelandic.
The fee officially came into effect on January 1, 2026, and it’s designed to help fund Iceland’s road infrastructure in a different way than before.
Under the standard government system, most passenger vehicles are charged 6.95 ISK per kilometer driven, although rates vary depending on the vehicle’s weight and classification.
Unlike a toll road where you stop to pay at a booth, this fee is based on the total number of kilometers a vehicle travels.
For Icelandic residents who own a vehicle, the fee is reported and paid according to government regulations.
For visitors, however, the process is much simpler because your rental company handles it for you.
That means you don’t have to register with the Icelandic government or report your mileage yourself. Instead, the rental company collects the fee as part of your rental agreement before paying it to the government.
This is where many travelers become confused because not every rental company chooses to pass that fee on in the same way.
I’ll cover that in detail a little later because understanding this difference can make budgeting your trip much easier.


				Experience Tip: One thing I’ve noticed after helping thousands of travelers plan trips to Iceland is that most people assume every rental company calculates this fee exactly the same way. That’s actually not the case, and knowing the difference before you book can save you both money and uncertainty when you’re planning your budget.			

  
Why Did Iceland Introduce the Kilometer Fee?
Moving Away from Fuel Taxes
At first glance, it’s easy to assume that Iceland simply added another fee for travelers. But the reality is a bit more nuanced.
For many years, Iceland paid for a significant portion of its road maintenance through taxes on gasoline and diesel fuel. The idea was simple: the more you drove, the more fuel you purchased, and the more you contributed toward maintaining the country’s roads.
That system worked well when nearly every vehicle relied on fossil fuels. However, Iceland has seen a rapid increase in hybrid and fully electric vehicles over the past several years. Those vehicles still use the roads every day, but they purchase much less, or no, gasoline or diesel.
As a result, the government was collecting less revenue from fuel taxes while road maintenance costs continued to grow. The kilometer fee was introduced to create a funding system that applies more consistently across different types of vehicles, regardless of how they’re powered.
As with any major policy change, it has generated plenty of discussion within Iceland. Some residents feel the reduction in fuel taxes doesn’t fully offset the new kilometer fee, while others see it as a fairer way to fund the country’s road network.
For travelers, though, the most important takeaway is understanding how the fee works and how your rental company chooses to collect it, because that’s what will ultimately affect your budget.
Does the Kilometer Fee Apply to Tourists?
Yes. Whether you’re visiting Iceland for a long Ring Road adventure, spending a week exploring the South Coast, or taking a short getaway around Reykjavík and the Golden Circle, this new fee applies to rental vehicles.
If you’re someone who loves taking scenic detours (and trust me, Iceland will tempt you to do exactly that), knowing how your rental company charges this fee can give you much more peace of mind.
  
How Rental Car Companies Charge Iceland’s New Road Fee
Some Companies Charge by the Kilometer
This is probably the pricing model most travelers expect. Some rental companies simply pass the government’s kilometer fee directly on to you. When you pick up your vehicle, the current odometer reading is recorded.
When you return it, the rental company calculates how many kilometers you’ve driven and charges the corresponding road fee. The benefit of this approach is that you’re paying for exactly the distance you traveled.
If you only plan to drive around Reykjavík for a couple of days, this could result in a relatively small road-fee charge. The downside is that your final cost isn’t always easy to predict.
If your plans change, which they often do in Iceland, you may end up driving much farther than you originally expected. Suddenly, that carefully planned travel budget starts to look a little different.
Other Companies Charge a Flat Daily Road Fee
Some rental companies have chosen a different approach.vRather than charging based on every kilometer driven, they charge a fixed road fee for each rental day.
For example, Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers currently charge a mandatory road fee of €10.50 per rental day, regardless of your insurance coverage or how many kilometers you drive during your rental.
Personally, I really appreciate this pricing model. One of the first things I tell people planning an Iceland trip is to leave room for spontaneity.
Maybe you hear about a hidden hot spring from another traveler.
Maybe someone recommends an incredible canyon that wasn’t on your itinerary.
Maybe the weather forecast changes overnight, and you decide to spend the day exploring a completely different region.
Those things happen all the time here. With a flat daily fee, you’re free to make those decisions without wondering whether every extra kilometer is increasing your final bill.
Instead, you already know what the road-fee portion of your rental will cost before your trip even begins. For me, that kind of predictability is worth a lot.


				Experience Tip: I’ve changed my itinerary countless times because of Iceland’s weather. It’s one of the best travel decisions you can make here. Having a predictable daily road fee means I can focus on enjoying the adventure instead of mentally calculating extra costs every time I decide to drive somewhere new.			


						The Ultimate Guide to Renting a Car in Iceland					
						If you’re still deciding which rental car is right for your trip, I’ve created a free Ultimate Guide to Renting a Car in Iceland that goes far beyond the new kilometer fee.
Inside, I cover how to choose between a 2WD and a 4×4, Iceland-specific insurance recommendations, gravel roads versus F-roads, parking rules, winter driving tips, common mistakes to avoid, and much more. I recently updated it to include Iceland’s new kilometer fee, so you’ll have the latest information all in one place.

						Click Here					
Is Renting a Car Is Still One of the Best Ways to Explore Iceland?
Absolutely. Even with this additional cost, I still believe renting a car is the best way to experience Iceland for most visitors.
One of the things I love most about living here is that Iceland constantly rewards curiosity. Some of the country’s most memorable places aren’t found on a typical itinerary. They’re discovered because you decided to stop at an overlook, follow a sign pointing toward a waterfall, or take a scenic detour after chatting with another traveler.
Having your own vehicle gives you that freedom. You’re not rushing to catch a tour bus, worrying about train schedules, or feeling like you have to leave somewhere just because everyone else is. Instead, you can experience Iceland at your own pace.
That’s something I think is incredibly valuable. Of course, the new kilometer fee does add another expense to your trip. But in the grand scheme of an Iceland vacation, I don’t think it’s a reason to avoid renting a car altogether.
Instead, it’s simply another cost to understand and plan for before you arrive.


				Experience Tip:  Some of my favorite days in Iceland have been the ones where I threw my original itinerary out the window because the weather was better somewhere else. That kind of flexibility is difficult to put a price on, and it’s one of the biggest reasons I continue recommending rental cars over guided tours for many travelers.			

  
Budgeting for the Iceland’s New Road Tax
No matter which pricing model your rental company uses, my advice is simple: Plan for the road fee before you arrive.
Just like budgeting for fuel, parking, or accommodation, this is now another normal part of planning an Iceland road trip.
The good news is that once you’ve factored it into your budget, there really aren’t any surprises.
In fact, I think the bigger financial mistakes people make when renting a car in Iceland have nothing to do with the road fee at all.

Choosing the wrong type of vehicle.
Skipping important insurance coverage.
Driving roads that aren’t suitable for their rental.
Or underestimating Iceland’s weather.

Those are the kinds of mistakes that can cost hundreds, or even thousands, of dollars.
Compared to those, understanding the road fee is actually one of the easier parts of planning your trip.
Below is a way that you can save money on your rental car in Iceland.
How to Save Money on a Rental Car in Iceland (Even With the New Road Fee)
If you’re already planning to rent a car or camper van, there’s no reason not to take advantage of available discounts.
I’ve partnered with Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers because I’ve personally used both companies for years, and they’ve consistently provided excellent customer service and reliable vehicles for my adventures around Iceland.
When you book through my discount links, you’ll receive:
Go Car Rental Iceland

7% off your rental
Free 4G WiFi (simply select it under the Extras section when booking)

Go Campers

7% off your camper van rental
Free sleeping bag (select it in the Extras section)

The discounts are automatically applied when you book through my links and enter your rental dates, making them an easy way to offset part of Iceland’s new road fee while supporting All Things Iceland at no additional cost to you.
  
Continue Planning Your Iceland Road Trip
Understanding the new road fee is just one piece of the puzzle.
If you’re still deciding whether you need a 2WD or a 4×4, wondering which insurance is actually worth purchasing, or trying to understand Iceland’s gravel roads, F-roads, parking rules, and seasonal driving conditions, I’ve put everything together in my Ultimate Guide to Renting a Car in Iceland.
It’s completely free, regularly updated, and designed to help you avoid the most common mistakes travelers make before they even arrive in Iceland.
Frequently Asked Questions About Iceland’s New Road Tax Fee
Can tourists avoid Iceland’s road fee?
No. If you’re renting a car or camper van in Iceland, the road fee is part of the cost of driving. The way it’s charged depends on your rental company, but it isn’t something visitors can opt out of.

Is it still worth renting a car in Iceland?
Absolutely. Even with the introduction of the road fee, I still believe renting a car offers the greatest flexibility and allows you to experience parts of Iceland that many tour groups never visit.

Why do some rental companies charge a flat daily fee?
Some companies have chosen to simplify the government’s kilometer fee by charging a predictable daily amount instead.
For example, Go Car Rental and Go Campers currently charge a mandatory road fee of €10.50 per rental day, regardless of how many kilometers you drive.

Is a flat daily fee better than paying per kilometer?
It depends on your travel style. If you’re planning very little driving, paying per kilometer could potentially cost less.
However, if you’re planning a Ring Road trip or simply want the freedom to take spontaneous detours without thinking about every kilometer, many travelers, including me, appreciate the predictability of a fixed daily fee.
Random Fact About Iceland
Did you know that Iceland’s famous Ring Road (Route 1) stretches approximately 1,322 kilometers (821 miles) around the entire island?
While many visitors dream of driving the complete Ring Road, some of the country’s most unforgettable experiences come from venturing beyond it. Scenic detours to places like the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, the Westfjords, the Westman Islands, or even into the remote Highlands often become the highlights of a trip. Snæfellsnes Peninsula Westfjords Westman Islands Highlands of Iceland
That’s one of the reasons I think it’s so important to understand how your rental company charges Iceland’s new road fee. If your itinerary changes—and trust me, it often does because of weather or unexpected discoveries—you’ll already know what to expect when it comes to your driving costs.
Icelandic Word of the Day
One of my favorite parts of the All Things Iceland podcast is sharing an Icelandic word or phrase at the end of each episode.
Today’s word is:
Kílómetragjald
Pronunciation: KEE-loh-meh-trah-gyald
The word is made up of two smaller Icelandic words:

Kílómetri = kilometer
Gjald = fee or charge

Put them together, and kílómetragjald literally means “kilometer fee.”
This is the official Icelandic term used to describe the country’s new distance-based road charge that came into effect in 2026.
So, if you happen to see news articles, government information, or conversations in Icelandic about the new road fee, you’ll likely come across the word kílómetragjald.
It’s a fun word to know—not just because it relates to this topic, but because it also gives you a little insight into how Icelandic words are often built by combining smaller words to create a very literal meaning.
Planning to rent a car in Iceland?
 Before you book, grab my free Ultimate Guide to Renting a Car in Iceland. It includes everything you need to know about Iceland’s new kilometer fee, choosing the right rental car, insurance, F-roads, parking, winter driving, and more.
And if you’re ready to book your rental, don’t forget to use my 7% discount links for Go Car Rental Iceland (plus free 4G WiFi) or Go Campers (plus a free sleeping bag) to save money on your trip.

Iceland’s New Road Tax Explained (2026): What Every Tourist Needs to Know

After eight months of maternity leave in Iceland, I’m finally back to work. Looking back, I can honestly say that this experience has given me an entirely new appreciation for Iceland’s parental leave system.
Before becoming a mom, I had so many questions. Would I qualify since I own my own business? How would my payments be calculated? How much time would I actually get with Eva? And what would maternity leave even feel like?
In this episode/blog, I’m sharing both how parental leave works in Iceland and my personal experience navigating it as a first-time mom.
https://youtu.be/BzbZjLI2-xo		
How Parental Leave Works in Iceland
One of the things I love most about Iceland’s parental leave system is that it’s designed for both parents.
Each parent is entitled to six months of parental leave, giving families a total of twelve months together. Parents also have the option to transfer up to six weeks of their leave to one another, while still encouraging both parents to spend meaningful time bonding with their child.
Another aspect I really appreciate is the flexibility. Parents can spread their leave out and use it until the child turns two years old.
In our family, I decided to take my leave all at once, while Halli took the first three months immediately after Eva was born. He still has additional leave remaining that he plans to use before she turns two.
For me, this flexibility is one of the strongest parts of Iceland’s system because every family’s needs are different.
  
My Experience Taking Leave as a Self-Employed Business Owner
One of my biggest concerns before having Eva was whether I would qualify for parental leave since I own my own company.
Even though I’m the only employee at All Things Iceland, I still pay all of the required employer contributions, including payments into Iceland’s parental leave fund, known as the Fæðingarorlofssjóður.
One important difference for self-employed people is how parental leave payments are calculated.
Instead of looking at recent monthly wages like traditional employees, self-employed parents have their payments calculated using their average income from the previous tax year.
It was fascinating learning how that process worked, and thankfully everything went smoothly for me. Even so, it made me realize how important it is for self-employed people to understand these rules before planning parental leave.
Why I Chose Eight Months Instead of Six
Although I technically had six months of paid leave, I decided to spread those payments across eight months.
That meant receiving smaller monthly payments while allowing me to stay home with Eva for longer.
For me, six months simply didn’t feel like enough.
Maybe it was because I wanted to experience more of Iceland’s brighter spring and summer months with her, or maybe I simply wasn’t ready to jump back into work.
Whatever the reason, I’m incredibly grateful that Iceland gave me the flexibility to make that decision.
  
Understanding the Parental Leave Payments in Iceland
Parental leave in Iceland isn’t intended to fully replace a person’s salary.
Instead, the goal is to provide financial support so parents can spend meaningful time with their child during those first months.
One thing that surprised me was seeing how taxes and pension contributions affected my monthly payments. While the payment calculations were straightforward, it reminded me that the advertised amount is before taxes are deducted.
Overall, though, I appreciated having financial support while focusing on recovery and motherhood.
Applying for Parental Leave in Iceland
One thing that pleasantly surprised me was how straightforward the application process was.
Everything is completed online through Ísland.is, making the system relatively simple to navigate. Since I work for myself, I also involved my accountant to make sure all of my paperwork was submitted correctly.
I decided to begin my maternity leave before Eva’s due date so I could prepare our home, finish work projects, and mentally transition into motherhood. Looking back, giving myself that extra time before she arrived was one of the best decisions I made.
  
What 8 Months of Maternity Leave Was Really Like
Before Eva was born, I honestly had no idea what maternity leave would feel like. The beginning of my leave was a combination of overwhelming joy and genuine struggle.
After an emergency C-section, recovering physically while learning how to care for a newborn was incredibly challenging. I had also gained more than 60 pounds during pregnancy, so my body had a lot of healing to do.
One of the greatest blessings during those early months was having my mom come to Iceland to live with us for Eva’s first three months. She cooked, cleaned, did laundry, and helped care for all of us. Looking back, I don’t know what we would have done without her.
Having Halli home during those first months made an enormous difference as well. Those early weeks together as a family are memories I’ll always treasure.
Recovery doesn’t happen overnight. Learning how to become a parent doesn’t happen overnight either.
That’s why I believe parental leave is so incredibly valuable.
Returning to Work in Iceland After Eight Months of Maternity Leave
Although my maternity leave has officially ended, life certainly hasn’t returned to what it looked like before becoming a mom.
Eva is still home with me, and I’ve built a hybrid work schedule that allows me to continue running All Things Iceland while spending quality time with her.
A babysitter helps a few hours each day while I work from home, allowing me to continue creating videos, recording podcasts, consulting with travelers, and developing resources for people planning trips to Iceland.
Some days everything works beautifully. Other days, absolutely nothing goes according to plan.
I’ve learned that motherhood is constantly changing, and just when I think I’ve figured everything out, Eva reaches another milestone and we’re adapting all over again.
  
My Biggest Takeaway
Looking back, these eight months went by much faster than I ever imagined.
Before becoming a mom, eight months sounded like a really long time. Now it feels like it passed in the blink of an eye.
I’m deeply grateful that Iceland gave me the opportunity to spend this time healing, bonding with Eva, and gradually finding my footing as a new parent.
No parental leave system is perfect, but I genuinely appreciate that Iceland recognizes the importance of giving families meaningful time together during such an important chapter of life.
Random Fact of the Episode
Did you know that Iceland is consistently ranked among the world’s most family-friendly countries? UNICEF has recognized Iceland as one of the top countries for family-friendly policies thanks to its generous paid parental leave and support for working parents.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Fæðingarorlofssjóður (Parental Leave Fund)
This is the government fund that pays parental leave benefits in Iceland. As someone who owns my own business, my company contributes to this fund just like other employers do, which is why I was eligible for parental leave as a self-employed parent.
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir aðhlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

I Just Finished 8 Months of Maternity Leave in Iceland. Here’s What It Was Really Like.

What if your next trip to Iceland could do more than create unforgettable memories?
In this episode, I sit down with Anne Peters and geologist Johannes Marteinn from Katla UNESCO Global Geopark to explore one of the most fascinating experiences I’ve ever had in Iceland: science-backed expeditions where everyday travelers help collect real scientific data.
The best part? You don’t need any scientific experience. If you can hike, take photos, or learn to use simple equipment, you can contribute to research that’s helping scientists better understand Iceland’s rapidly changing landscapes.
In this episode

What “citizen science” really means
How anyone can participate in real scientific research in Iceland
My experience collecting glacier, dead ice, and coastline data
Why Katla Geopark is one of Iceland’s most geologically diverse regions
How scientists monitor glaciers, dead ice, and coastal erosion
What happens to the data after each expedition
Why these small-group adventures are designed with sustainability in mind

https://youtu.be/VxqVdGRYnak		
Some surprising facts you’ll learn about Iceland

Katla UNESCO Global Geopark covers nearly 10% of Iceland.
Parts of Iceland’s South Coast are eroding by an average of about five meters every year.
During one storm in 2022, scientists measured up to 100 meters (328 feet) of coastline disappearing in a single event.
Participants receive reports, updates showing how their measurements contribute to ongoing research, and a certification of completion. 

Save 10% on your own Citizen Scientist Expedition in Iceland
If you’d like to experience one of these science-backed expeditions yourself, you can save 10% by using my code JEWELLS when booking through Katla UNESCO Global Geopark.
Here is the expeditions – https://www.katlageopark.com/about-katla/research/science-driven-expeditions/
I genuinely loved taking part in these expeditions because I wasn’t just admiring Iceland’s incredible landscapes, I was helping researchers collect information that contributes to understanding how Iceland is changing. It completely transformed the way I think about travel, and I hope this conversation inspires you to experience Iceland in a whole new way as a citizen scientist.
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Iceland’s Glaciers & Coastline are Disappearing – Here’s how Your Visit Can Help Scientists


Learning Icelandic can honestly feel overwhelming. If you’ve ever tried to learn the language, you probably already know that there are a lot of scattered resources online, different classes, private tutors, apps, YouTube videos, grammar books, and random websites that may or may not help depending on your learning style. One of the questions I get asked the most is how to actually learn Icelandic and what resources are worthwhile.
Why I Wanted to Try Icelandic AI
When I first heard about a program called Icelandic AI, I was really intrigued. Not because I thought it would magically make anyone fluent overnight, but because I was curious whether there was finally one platform that could bring many of these learning tools together in a more organized and comprehensive way.
Just for some context, I’ve been living in Iceland since 2016, so almost 10 years now. I’m at an intermediate level in Icelandic, and over the years I’ve taken multiple Icelandic classes, worked with private tutors, studied on my own, and I regularly speak Icelandic with my boyfriend and his family. So while I’m definitely not claiming to be fluent, I do feel like I have a good understanding of what makes a language-learning resource actually useful.
I also want to be transparent that I am collaborating with Icelandic AI in the sense that I reached out to them because I wanted access to the platform to test it out and share my thoughts with my audience. However, this is not a paid review, and I do not benefit financially if people sign up through the platform. I genuinely just wanted to see if this was a resource worth recommending because I know how difficult it can be to figure out where to even start with Icelandic.
First Impressions of the Icelandic AI Platform
  
Overall, I have to say that Icelandic AI is one of the more comprehensive Icelandic-learning platforms I’ve seen so far.
The platform was created by Sandra, and the “AI” part of the name is actually referring to her AI twin or clone. So instead of it being like ChatGPT or Claude where the AI is actively learning you and responding dynamically, it’s more that Sandra has created an AI version of herself that guides you through the lessons using her voice and likeness. There are also additional AI characters named Monica and Oscar who help throughout the platform as well.
At the time of recording this episode, I’ve completed about 55% of Level 1, which has already taken me around 49 hours, and I’ve also started Level 2. Even as someone who already has background knowledge in Icelandic, I’ve still found it useful as a review tool and as a way to reinforce concepts I’ve already learned.
One thing I also appreciate is that the platform doesn’t feel rushed or surface level. There’s a lot of depth built into it, and you can tell that a huge amount of work went into organizing the information in a structured way. It’s not just random vocabulary words thrown at you. There’s an actual progression to how concepts are introduced and built upon over time.
Now let’s get into the pros and cons.
The Pros of the Icelandic AI Learning Platform
  
1. The platform is extremely comprehensive
All of the core things you need to learn Icelandic are included: grammar, conjugation, sentence structure, pronunciation, vocabulary, and the four Icelandic cases. There is a lot of depth to the lessons.
2. It’s easy to access and flexible
You can work through the lessons on your own time and from anywhere. Right now it works best on a computer, but they mentioned they are working on a mobile-friendly version as well.
3. It can potentially be reimbursed through Icelandic unions
If you live and work in Iceland and are part of a union, there’s a possibility you can use your educational reimbursement funds toward the course because it has educational certification.
4. There’s a community section
The platform has a community tab where you can ask questions and interact with the Icelandic AI team, which is helpful when you need clarification.
5. There are pronunciation checks
You can record yourself speaking into your microphone and the platform gives feedback in the form of a percentage score from 0–100 based on pronunciation accuracy. I actually found this surprisingly useful.
6. The platform is visually engaging
The lessons are interactive, visually appealing, and easy to follow. There are a lot of graphics and clickable elements that make it feel more engaging than just staring at blocks of text.
7. The lessons are well organized
The progression makes sense. You start with greetings and introductions, then move into present tense and foundational concepts before building into more advanced grammar and sentence structure.
8. There is a huge amount of material
Honestly, there is a lot in here. It can feel a little overwhelming at first, but in a good way. You’re definitely not going to run out of things to study anytime soon.
9. There are quizzes and flashcards
The platform includes quizzes, review sections, and flashcards to help reinforce what you’ve learned.
10. You receive a certificate of completion
At the end of the levels, you receive a certificate showing you completed the coursework, which is a nice touch.
One thing I kept thinking while going through the lessons was that I really wish something like this had existed when I first started learning Icelandic years ago. Back then, I felt like I was constantly piecing together resources from all over the internet. This feels much more centralized and organized, which can make a huge difference for beginners who don’t even know where to start.
The Cons of the Icelandic AI Learning Platform
  
1. It’s not conversational AI
This is probably the most important thing to understand going into the platform. The AI is not actively talking back and forth with you the way ChatGPT or Claude would. Sandra’s AI twin guides you through lessons, but it’s not a live conversational experience.
2. You still need conversation practice outside the platform
If your goal is becoming conversational, you’ll still need to practice speaking with real people outside of Icelandic AI, whether that’s friends, tutors, classmates, or language exchange partners.
3. The pronunciation feedback could be improved
While the pronunciation checker is helpful, I do wish it played back your voice or directly compared your pronunciation to a native speaker’s recording. I think that would make the feedback even more useful.
4. You need to be self-motivated
Because this is self-paced, it requires discipline. Unlike in-person classes where there’s accountability and scheduled meetings, you have to consistently show up for yourself and stay committed.
5. Advanced learners may need to wait for more content
Right now the platform includes Levels 1 through 3, and I’ve heard more levels are coming. But if you’re already intermediate or advanced, you may move through the current material fairly quickly and have to wait for additional content.
My Overall Thoughts
  
I’ve genuinely enjoyed using Icelandic AI, and I plan to continue going through the lessons because I think it’s a really valuable review tool even at my current level.
At the same time, I still don’t believe there’s one perfect resource that can fully teach you Icelandic on its own. I think learning this language usually requires a combination of resources, consistency, practice, and patience. But as far as comprehensive platforms go, Icelandic AI is definitely one of the better ones I’ve personally seen.
I also think it’s important to remember that learning Icelandic is a long-term process. This is not an “I studied for two weeks and now I’m fluent” type of language. It takes repetition, exposure, practice, and patience. So having a resource that keeps everything organized and accessible in one place can genuinely be really helpful.
If you want to check it out for yourself, here is the link to Icelandic AI. As always, it’s completely up to you, but hopefully hearing my experience gives you a better idea of whether it might fit your learning style and goals.
Random Fact of the Episode
One random fact about the Icelandic language is that Icelandic has changed so little over time that modern Icelanders can still read the medieval Icelandic sagas written hundreds of years ago with relatively little difficulty.
Compared to English, which has changed dramatically over the centuries, Icelandic has remained incredibly well preserved, which is one of the reasons why the language is both fascinating and challenging to learn.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
The Icelandic word of the episode is “Æfa sig”, which means “to practice.”
And honestly, I think that’s one of the biggest lessons when it comes to learning Icelandic. There’s no perfect app, no perfect teacher, and no perfect method. A lot of it really comes down to consistently practicing, even when the language feels difficult or awkward.
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I Tested the Icelandic AI Learning Platform So You Don’t Have To – The Pros & Cons

I sat down with an inspiring Venezuelan-born entrepreneur, Valenttina Griffin, who has made Iceland her home. Through a lively conversation, Valenttina shares her experiences of navigating different cultures, thriving in the tech industry, and her entrepreneurial journey that spans multiple continents. Join us as we explore her insights on leadership, the power of community, and the importance of personal growth.
Valenttina’s Journey Across Borders
Valenttina’s journey began in Venezuela, where she enjoyed a tropical, sun-filled upbringing surrounded by strong women and positive role models. She fondly recalls the freedom of her childhood and notes the cultural contrast when she moved to Norway as an exchange student in the early 2000s. Her adventurous spirit and curiosity led her to embrace this transition. Learning the Norwegian language and culture opened doors for her, eventually helping her adapt quickly when she moved to Iceland.
https://youtu.be/O2q2l8V1bdU		
Save 25% on Your Stay at Center Hotels in Reykjavík
The sponsor of this episode is Center Hotels, a collection of nine stylish hotels located throughout downtown Reykjavík. Whether you want to stay close to the harbor, shopping streets, restaurants, nightlife, or some of the city’s most iconic landmarks, there’s a location that fits your travel style. I’ve partnered with Center Hotels to offer my audience an exclusive 25% discount when booking directly through their website using the code ATI25 at checkout. The code is valid through May 2026, making it a great opportunity to save on your stay while experiencing some of the most conveniently located hotels in Reykjavík.
Adapting to Icelandic Culture
Life in Iceland was quite different. Valenttina immersed herself in the local culture, learned the Icelandic language, and embraced the insular lifestyle. She reflects on the warmth of Venezuelan interactions, marked by hugs and close personal contact, contrasting sharply with the reserved nature of Icelanders who value personal space. Yet, the support she received from the Icelandic community has been invaluable, helping her form a deep connection with her new home.
Women in Tech: Establishing a Supportive Network*
As a woman in the tech industry, Valenttina shares her personal experiences and challenges in navigating a male-dominated field. She is part of Women Tech Iceland, an organization that provides a platform for women to feel safe and share their stories. Valenttina emphasizes the importance of recognition for women in tech and the need for creating role models for future generations. The group facilitates events that foster community support and networking opportunities, bridging the gap between Icelandic and foreign professionals.
Cultural Insights and Leadership Challenges
Valenttina Griffin discusses the nuances of working in Icelandic companies and how she manages cultural differences. She has witnessed firsthand the challenges of integration for foreign women in the workforce, highlighting language as a significant barrier. Despite these challenges, she credits her success to the Icelandic language skills and cultural understanding, which have helped her build trust and rapport in leadership roles.
Valenttina’s Approach to Embracing Personal Growth and Neuroplasticity
Beyond her professional achievements, Valenttina is passionate about neuroscience and neuroplasticity. She believes in the power of personal growth and continuously adapting to change. Her advice to women, and to anyone seeking growth, is to love themselves, set healthy boundaries, and not ignore red flags in personal or professional relationships. These principles guide her as she navigates her entrepreneurial journey and raises her family in Iceland.
Launching UGrow: Revolutionizing the Service Industry in Iceland
Valenttina’s latest venture,  UGrow, focuses on optimizing recruitment processes within the Icelandic service industry. This initiative aims to streamline seasonal hiring, ensuring that both employees and employers are well-matched and meet legal standards. By doing so, Valenttina hopes to improve the experience for foreign workers and support the thriving tourism sector in Iceland.
A Vision for a Diverse and Welcoming Iceland
Through her work with Women Tech Iceland and You Grow, Valenttina is helping shape a more inclusive and diverse Iceland. She envisions a future where international talent is integrated seamlessly into Icelandic society and where everyone is encouraged to embrace change and growth. This conversation is not only a testament to Valenttina’s strength and adaptability but also an inspiration for anyone looking to explore new horizons and make a difference in their communities.
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From Venezuela to Iceland: How Valenttina Griffin Built a Life Across Cultures

Along with hearing about volcanoes, waterfalls, black sand beaches, and gorgeous landscapes, one of the biggest things people associate with Iceland is how expensive it is. And honestly, that conversation comes up constantly. It’s one of the most common questions when I am helping travelers planning their first trip here.
Iceland has built a reputation online for being adventurous and fascinating, but also very expensive. And to be fair, it absolutely can be. Publications like Travel + Leisure have even ranked Iceland among the most expensive travel destinations in the world.
From my perspective as someone who has lived in Iceland since 2016 and helped thousands of travelers through my podcast, social media channels, private consultations, and my in-depth video course, The Savvy Traveler’s Guide to Iceland, what stands out to me is this: most people don’t create a realistic budget for Iceland.
Inside This 5-Day Iceland Budget Guide

Knowing where to start with Budgeting for 5-days in Iceland
Why the Season You Visit Changes Your Entire Budget
What Kind of Iceland Experience Do You Want?
Flights to Iceland
Accommodations: The Biggest Budget Variable
Rental Cars & Iceland’s New Road Tax
How to Save on Renting a Car and Camper Van in Iceland
The Hidden Iceland Expense Most Travelers Forget: Parking Fees
Food Costs in Iceland
Activities & Tours: What to Expect
Use Discount Codes Strategically to Save Money
Unexpected Costs
Realistic 5-Day Iceland Budgets by Season

Winter Budget Breakdown
Shoulder Season Budget Breakdown
Summer Budget Breakdown



  
Knowing Where to Start with Budgeting a 5-day Trip for Iceland
I think that people don’t always create a realistic budget for Iceland because they don’t know where to start. Travelers are often unsure about  how much to set aside for accommodations, activities, rental cars, food, parking, or even how much the season changes everything.
So instead of just throwing random numbers at you, I want to walk you through how I would personally budget for a 5-day trip to Iceland depending on your travel style, the season, and the choices you make while you’re here.
Because the reality is that a 5-day trip to Iceland could cost one person around $1,300 and another person over $4,000 — and both of them could still have incredible experiences.
  
The Season You Visit Iceland Changes Everything
If there’s one thing I really want travelers to understand before budgeting for Iceland, it’s this: the season you visit impacts almost every single part of your trip.
That includes accommodations, rental cars, flights, activities, and even how you spend your time while traveling. I’m honestly not exaggerating when I say that the exact same hotel room can literally double or triple in price depending on the month.
For example, a hotel room that costs around $120 per night in winter can easily jump to $250–350 per night in summer. Same room. Same location. Same hotel. The only thing that changed is the season.
Now, I don’t say that to scare anyone. There are also unique events that can create unusually high prices, like the 2026 total solar eclipse in Iceland, where some accommodations are charging thousands of dollars per night because demand is so intense. That’s not the normal reality for Iceland travel, but it does show how much seasonality and demand affect pricing here.
Rental cars work exactly the same way. In summer, demand skyrockets, and travelers are often shocked by how quickly prices increase if they wait too long to book.
  
What Kind of Iceland Experience Do You Want?
Another huge part of budgeting for Iceland is understanding the type of trip you actually want to have.
I think social media sometimes makes this harder because people see inspiration online and accidentally start comparing their budget to someone else’s completely different trip.
Maybe you want to see the Northern Lights, but you’re planning to come in summer, which, by the way, isn’t possible because the sun barely sets. Maybe you want to base yourself in Reykjavík and do day trips, or maybe you want to road trip around the country and stay in multiple places. Perhaps you want to rent a camper van or stay in luxury hotels for part of the trip because you’re celebrating something special.
All of those decisions affect your budget.
One thing I regularly help people understand during my private video consultations is that Iceland often looks much smaller on the map than it actually is once you start driving around it.
For example, if someone wants to stay in Reykjavík the whole trip but also drive to Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, I explain that this is about a five-hour drive one way. That’s ten hours of driving in a single day before you even stop at waterfalls, black sand beaches, or anywhere else along the route.
That’s why route planning matters so much in Iceland, not only for your sanity but also for your budget.
  
Flights to Iceland – Cost per Season
Flights to Iceland fluctuate constantly depending on the season, where you’re flying from, how early you book, and global fuel prices.
For winter, flights are often around $400–700 roundtrip, while summer flights can range from $600–1,200 or even higher.
And honestly, airfare pricing lately has become even harder to predict because of global fuel market instability and international conflicts affecting energy prices. Those things trickle into airline pricing too, so whenever I give ranges for Iceland travel costs, I always want people to understand that these numbers are based on averages and trends, not guarantees.
One thing I personally recommend is signing up for airline email lists, like Icelandair or Delta Air Lines, because they regularly send flight sales. I also use Google Flights to track pricing trends, and you’d honestly be surprised how much prices can fluctuate from one week to another.
  
Accommodations in Iceland: The Biggest Budget Variable
Accommodation is usually where people underestimate costs the most.
For budget accommodations like hostels, guesthouses, smaller rooms, or shared bathroom situations, you’re generally looking at around $400–700 total for five nights in winter and about $700–1,400+ in summer.
For mid-range accommodations, such as private hotel rooms, apartments, or guesthouses with private bathrooms, winter pricing is usually somewhere around $700–1,400 for five nights, while summer can jump to $1,200–2,000+.
And yes, summer pricing really can get that high.
If you’re considering a camper van, that can sometimes help reduce accommodation costs, though prices vary dramatically depending on the vehicle and the season.
I always recommend booking accommodations as early as possible for summer travel. Honestly, if you can plan a year in advance, that’s ideal. Six months minimum is usually what I suggest if possible.
  
Rental Cars Cost & Iceland’s New Road Tax
If you’re planning to leave Reykjavík, I strongly recommend considering a rental car because it gives you so much flexibility.
Winter rental prices for a smaller car are often around $120–150 per day, while SUVs are closer to $170–180 per day. In summer, smaller cars can easily be $150–200+, and SUVs can go even higher depending on the size and capability of the vehicle.
For a five-day trip, many travelers spend somewhere between $600–1,200+ once you include gas and insurance.
And there’s another thing travelers now need to budget for.
Starting in 2026, Iceland implemented a kilometer-based road tax system that applies to vehicles, including rental cars. Iceland Kilometer Fee Information
Most travelers won’t calculate this themselves because rental companies typically include it either as a per-kilometer fee or as a flat daily charge.
For example, Go Car Rental Iceland currently charges approximately €10.50 per day as a flat mandatory road tax fee.
Fuel prices in Iceland have lowered somewhat since the road tax was introduced, but global events still impact fuel pricing significantly.
  
How to Save on Renting a Car & Camper Van in Iceland
Through my discount links with Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers, you can save 7% on your rental. Go Car also includes free 4G WiFi, while Go Campers includes a free sleeping bag.
And honestly, the WiFi is incredibly useful because you can check weather, road conditions, maps, email, WhatsApp, and social media while driving around Iceland
You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsiceland
Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.
For Go Car:When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added. 
For Go Campers:Choose a sleeping bag under the “extras” section, and same thing, the total price won’t increase.
And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. So thank you for that.
  
The Hidden Expense in Iceland that Most Travelers Forget: Parking Fees
Many waterfalls, black sand beaches, scenic viewpoints, geothermal areas, and hiking spots now charge for parking. This is especially in popular areas like the Golden Circle, South Coast, Snæfellsnes Peninsula, and downtown Reykjavík.
I’ve seen this change a lot over the years since I moved here in 2016. There were many places that used to have completely free parking, but because of the increase in tourism, road maintenance, parking lot maintenance, and of course landowners wanting to make money, parking fees have become much more common.
I usually recommend budgeting around $80 USD total for parking during a 5-day trip depending on how much driving you’re doing.
You can also use the Parka app to look up parking fees in advance, which can help a lot with planning.
If you’re unsure where to go or how to organize your route efficiently, I highly recommend checking out My Iceland Map on Rexby. It includes 350+ personally recommended locations around Iceland that I’ve visited and enjoyed myself.
  
Food Costs in Iceland
Food absolutely adds up in Iceland if you eat every meal out.
A casual restaurant meal is usually around $20–35 per person, while a nicer dinner can easily be $40–80+. Coffee and a pastry are often around $10–15, and cocktails in Reykjavík can easily cost over $20 each.
For five days, I’d say a budget traveler who cooks some meals or makes sandwiches could probably spend around $150–300, while a mid-range traveler who eats out more regularly could spend around $300–700+.
One of my favorite budget hacks is booking accommodations with breakfast included. Then you can eat a larger breakfast, make sandwiches or grab snacks for later, and only pay for dinner out.
For groceries, Bónus is generally the cheapest option, while Krónan is another great alternative.
And surprisingly, IKEA Iceland is one of the cheapest places to sit down and eat a full meal in Iceland. I’m not suggesting that you eat at IKEA every day but I just think it is fun to share that random information.
  
What to Budget for Activities & Tours in Iceland
This category really depends on what type of traveler you are.
Some people are perfectly happy exploring waterfalls, scenic drives, geothermal areas, and hiking trails, which can keep costs relatively low. Others want glacier hikes, snorkeling, whale watching, ice caves, and snowmobiling. All of these activities can add up quickly.
The Blue Lagoon and Sky Lagoon are generally around $100–150+, glacier hikes are around $100–200+, whale watching tours around $118–150+, and ice cave tours can range from $150–300+ depending on the experience.
One of my favorite lower-cost alternatives to the major lagoons is going to a local swimming pool like Laugardalslaug. It has Olympic-sized pools, hot tubs, a cold plunge, slides, and it gives you a chance to experience Icelandic swimming pool culture alongside locals for a fraction of the cost of the lagoons.
And if you love museums, there are actually certain times of year when you can visit many for free during events like Winter Lights Festival in February and Menningarnótt (Culture Night) in August.
  
Use Discount Codes & Links to Save Money in Iceland 
One of the easiest ways to save money in Iceland is by not paying full price when you don’t have to.
My free Iceland Discount Code Bundle includes discounts for rental cars, camper vans, tours, activities, hotels, outerwear, and more.
Most tour discounts are around 10% off, and when you apply those savings across multiple activities, it really does make a noticeable difference in your final trip budget.
  
Always Leave Room for Unexpected Costs
This is honestly one of my biggest Iceland budgeting tips overall: always leave room for flexibility.
Weather changes quickly in Iceland, and road conditions can shift plans unexpectedly. That could mean rerouting, staying somewhere an extra night, changing accommodations, or adjusting activities because of storms or warnings.
Whenever possible, I recommend keeping a few hundred dollars of flexibility in your budget if you can. It just makes the trip feel significantly less stressful.
  
Realistic 5-Day Iceland Budget by Season
For winter travel between November and March (excluding holidays), a budget traveler is usually looking at around $1,300–2,000, while a mid-range traveler is closer to $1,800–2,700.
Winter tends to be cheaper because hotel demand is lower, rental cars are less expensive, and there are fewer crowds. The trade-off, of course, is less daylight and more unpredictable weather.
For summer, budget travelers are usually spending around $1,800–3,000, while mid-range travelers are closer to $2,500–4,000+.
Summer costs rise because of peak tourism demand, midnight sun season, easier travel conditions, Highlands access, and limited accommodations.
The biggest reason I wanted to make this episode was honestly to help people manage expectations.
Iceland can absolutely be expensive. But once you understand how seasonality works, where your biggest expenses are, and how to budget realistically, it becomes much easier to create a trip that works for your finances and travel style.
And honestly, being informed ahead of time makes Iceland feel so much less overwhelming.
The Random Fact of the Episode
Did you know that Iceland has around 41 active volcanic systems — including volcanoes beneath the ocean? According to Náttúra Íslands (Natt.is), a volcano is considered “active” if it has erupted within the last 11,000–12,000 years, which is actually pretty recent in geological terms.
The most active volcanic system in Iceland is called Grímsvötn, located in Southeast Iceland. It has erupted on average about once every decade over the last thousand years.
Meanwhile, Iceland’s largest volcanic system is Bárðarbunga, and many of the country’s enormous lava fields were created from eruptions there.
What’s also fascinating is that volcanic systems in Iceland are often made up of:

a central volcano,
plus a fissure swarm, all connected to a shared underground magma chamber deep within the Earth’s crust.

Which honestly explains why Iceland can sometimes feel like you’re standing on another planet.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
ferðakostnaður — travel expenses or cost of travel
Pronunciation: FEHR-tha-kost-na-thur
This felt like the perfect word for this episode because honestly… that’s exactly what we’ve been talking about the entire time. 
In Icelandic:

ferð = trip/journey
kostnaður = cost/expense

So together: ferðakostnaður = the cost of traveling.
Example:
“Ferðakostnaður á Íslandi getur verið hár á sumrin.”
“Travel costs in Iceland can be high during the summer.”
And trust me… Icelanders definitely understand this too, especially when traveling around their own country during peak season.
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The Cost of a 5-Day Trip to Iceland. Local Expert Advice on how to budget for it.

There are places in Iceland that are easy to visit. And then there are places that require a bit more effort, but reward you in ways you honestly don’t expect.
I’m sharing 5 places across the country that are absolutely worth the detour.
These aren’t your typical Golden Circle stops. These are the kinds of places that make people say: “Wait… THIS was in Iceland?!”
If you’re planning a trip and want to go beyond the basics, this list is for you.
Table of Contents

How to Reach These Places (Car & Camper Van Tips)
Látrabjarg (Westfjords)
Seyðisfjörður (East Iceland)
Hveradalir (Highlands)
Plan Your Trip with My Iceland Map
Westman Islands / Vestmannaeyjar (South Iceland)
Siglufjörður (North Iceland)
Sample Route Using These 5 Detours
Random Fact of the Episode
Icelandic Word of the Episode

How to Reach These Places (And Save on Your Rental)
Let’s be real for a second. To visit places like these, especially the Westfjords, Highlands, and North Iceland, you’ll need your own vehicle.
Public transport won’t get you to most of these locations, and guided tours often don’t go this far off the beaten path.
That’s where having the right rental car or camper van makes all the difference.
I personally use and recommend:

Go Car Rental Iceland
Go Campers

I’ve partnered with them for years because:

They have a wide variety of vehicles (from small cars to fully equipped campers)
Their customer service is amazing
And they make it easy to travel around Iceland confidently

How to Save + Get Free Extras
When you use my link:gorentals.is/allthingsiceland
You’ll automatically get:

7% off your rental
Plus some really helpful extras

Here’s exactly what to do:
For Go Car Rental:

Click the link and enter your travel dates
The 7% discount is automatically applied
When you get to “Insurance & Extras”
Select 4G WiFiYou’ll see the price does not increase, it stays the same

For Go Campers:

Click the same link and choose your camper
The 7% discount is automatically applied
Under the “Sleeping” section
Select a sleeping bag
Again, the price stays the same

It’s one of those little things that makes a big difference when you’re traveling around Iceland.
1. Látrabjarg (Westfjords)
  
If you’re craving something remote, raw, and wildly beautiful, this is it.
Látrabjarg is the westernmost point of Iceland, and is known for its dramatic sea cliffs and incredible birdlife.
Why Látrabjarg worth the detour:

One of the best places in Iceland to see puffins up close
Massive cliffs stretching for kilometers
A true “edge of the world” feeling

Important tips:

The road can be rough, so take it slow
Best visited in summer (June–mid August for puffins)
Not recommended in winter, late fall or early spring.

You can use a 2wd to get here but a 4×4 makes the trip easier and smoother. This is exactly the type of destination where having the right vehicle matters.
2. Seyðisfjörður (East Iceland)
  
This town feels like stepping into a completely different side of Iceland.
The drive into Seyðisfjörður alone is unforgettable. The winding road down a mountain pass into a peaceful fjord surrounded by waterfalls is incredible.
What makes Seyðisfjörður special:

Eclectic, artistic vibe
The iconic 🌈 rainbow road leading to the blue church
Quiet and scenic atmosphere

Easy access:
It’s only about 25 minutes from Egilsstaðir, making it a simple but rewarding detour in the East.
3. Hveradalir (Highlands)
  
If you’ve heard of Landmannalaugar, think similar, but quieter and less crowded.
Hveradalir is a geothermal wonderland filled with steaming valleys and colorful rhyolite mountains.
Why Hveradalir stands out:

Incredible views right from the parking lot
Fewer crowds than other Highland destinations
Surreal, otherworldly landscapes

What you need to know:

Only accessible in summer
A 4×4 vehicle is required
Your car must be insured for F-roads
No river crossings needed

This is where renting the right type of vehicle becomes essential.

						Stop Guessing What’s Worth Visiting in Iceland					
						Planning a trip here can feel overwhelming, especially when you’re trying to figure out what’s actually worth the detour.
Inside my Iceland Map, I’ve pinned 350+ must-see spots, hidden gems, and practical stops so you can build a trip that flows without second-guessing every decision.

						Click Here for the Map					
4. Vestmannaeyjar – The Westman Islands
(South Iceland)
  
The Westman Islands feel like a completely different world.
A ferry ride from the south coast takes you to a volcanic island shaped by a powerful 1973 eruption.
Why it’s worth visiting:

One of the largest puffin colonies in the world
Unique volcanic landscapes
Incredible hiking
Beluga whale & puffin sanctuary

When to go:

Summer for puffins
Winter for dramatic scenery

5. Siglufjörður (North Iceland)
  
Siglufjörður is one of those places that feels like a hidden gem.
What makes Siglufjörður special:

Charming harbor views
Rich fishing history
Peaceful, tucked-away atmosphere

Getting there:
The drive, especially through the mountain tunnels, is part of the adventure. It’s a one lane tunnel for both car directions.
Sample Itinerary Including These 5 Detour Stops
If you’re wondering how to actually connect these places into one trip, here’s a realistic way to do it.
This route works best in summer, when the Highlands and Westfjords are accessible.
  
Suggested Trip Length: 10–14 days
Day 1–2: Reykjavík + South Coast

Explore Reykjavík
Drive the South Coast
Optional overnight near Vík or Hvolsvöllur

From here, you’ll head toward your first detour.
Day 3: Ferry to Vestmannaeyjar

Take the ferry from Landeyjahöfn
Explore Heimaey island
Hike Eldfell volcano
Puffin spotting (in summer)

Overnight on the island or return to the mainland.
Day 4–5: Head East to Seyðisfjörður

Drive along the South Coast toward East Iceland
Stop at glaciers, waterfalls, and black sand beaches along the way
Base yourself near Egilsstaðir
Take the scenic drive into Seyðisfjörður

This is one of the most beautiful drives in the country. Don’t rush it.
Day 6–7: North Iceland + Siglufjörður

Continue north along the Ring Road
Optional stops: Dettifoss, Mývatn area
Head to Siglufjörður via the mountain tunnels

Take your time here. This town is all about slowing down.
Day 8–9: Into the Highlands – Hveradalir

Head inland toward Kerlingarfjöll
Drive F-roads (with a 4×4 vehicle)
Explore Hveradalir geothermal area

Plan for flexibility because Highland weather can change quickly.
Day 10–12: The Westfjords + Látrabjarg

Drive toward the Westfjords
Take your time—this region is all about slow travel
Visit Látrabjarg cliffs for puffins and insane coastal views

This is the most remote part of the trip, and honestly, one of the most rewarding.
Day 13–14: Return to Reykjavík

Head back toward Reykjavík
Optional stop at Snæfellsnes Peninsula along the way

Important Notes for This Route

This is a big trip. Don’t try to rush it
Best done June–August
A 4×4 vehicle is strongly recommended
Always check:

Road conditions on SafeTravel.is
Weather before heading into remote areas at vedur.is 



Want This Route Planned Out for You?
This is exactly the kind of trip that can feel overwhelming to piece together on your own.
Inside my Iceland Map, I’ve already:

Pinned all of these locations
Included nearby stops you wouldn’t think to add
Made it easy to build a route that actually makes sense

So instead of guessing, you can just plug things in and go.
Random Fact of the Episode
Iceland is home to the largest puffin colony in the world, and many of them nest along cliffs like Látrabjarg.
At their peak, you can see millions of puffins around the country. But they spend most of their lives out at sea, only coming to land to breed.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Krókur (KROH-kur)Meaning: a hook, bend, or detour
A perfect word for this post, because the best places in Iceland often require a little krókur.
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Þakka þer kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

5 Places in Iceland Worth the Detour (That Most Travelers Miss)

The 2026 total solar eclipse is already drawing attention from travelers around the world, and for good reason. The last time a total solar eclipse was visible in Iceland was in 1954, and the next one won’t happen again until 2196. 
This is truly a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PN4ZKGJ7QYI		
What Makes a Total Solar Eclipse So Special
A total solar eclipse is when the Moon completely covers the Sun. Not partially, not mostly, completely!
And when that happens, everything changes.

The sky gets dark, like twilight in the middle of the day
Temperatures drop
And you can see the Sun’s corona, which looks like a glowing white halo

But honestly?
The technical explanation doesn’t fully capture it. People who have seen total solar eclipses travel across the world to experience them again.

						Free Iceland 2026 Total Solar Eclipse Guide					
						In this free guide you’ll know where to go for the best chance of seeing totality, how to plan around Iceland’s unpredictable weather, and how to turn this into an unforgettable Iceland adventure.

						Click Here					
Why Iceland is So Unique for The 2026 Total Solar Eclipse?
The 2026 eclipse path crosses a limited number of places, and Iceland is one of the most accessible and visually stunning locations in that path.
Imagine this for a second:
You’re standing near a black sand beach or next to a massive waterfall or in the middle of a volcanic landscape…then the sky goes dark.
That’s what makes Iceland different.
You’re not just watching the eclipse, you’re experiencing it in one of the most dramatic natural environments in the world.
On top of that:

Iceland has wide open landscapes with unobstructed views
You’re never too far from a coastline
And depending on where you go, you can avoid huge crowds

But to be completely transparent, Iceland also comes with its challenges.
Why Planning Early Matters (A LOT) for the 2026 Total Solar Eclipse in Iceland 
Planning early for this eclipse is not optional—it’s essential.
Here’s why:
1. Limited Accommodations
Iceland already has limited places to stay. Small towns, fewer hotels, and high demand even in a normal year make in challenging during summer.
Now add a once-in-a-lifetime event? Things will book out fast!
2. Unpredictable Weather
Icelandic weather changes quickly. Like, very quickly.
You could have:

Clear skies in one area
And full cloud cover just an hour away

Which means if you stay in one place and hope for the best, you might miss it.
3. Distances Are Deceptive
Iceland looks small on the map, but driving between places often takes longer than people expect.
So knowing:

Where to base yourself
Where to go on eclipse day
And how to stay flexible

…can completely change your experience.
Free Help Planning Your Total Solar Eclipse Trip for Iceland?
Honestly, this is exactly why I created a free guide for this.
I’ve seen how quickly things can get overwhelming when planning a trip here, especially for something as big as a total solar eclipse.
So I put together a free 42-page guide to help you feel confident going into this.
By the time you finish it, you’ll know:

Where to go for the best chance of seeing totality in Iceland
How to plan around Iceland’s unpredictable weather
What to book and when
And how to turn this into an unforgettable Iceland adventure, not just a stressful chase for a view

👉🏾 Grab the free guide guide here – https://allthingsiceland.com/iceland-total-solar-eclipse-guide-2026/
Random Fact of the Episode
The longest possible total solar eclipse on Earth can last up to about 7 minutes.
In Iceland for 2026, totality will max be 2 minutes and 13 seconds,which makes timing everything.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Sólmyrkvi — Solar Eclipse
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Why Thousands Are Visiting Iceland for the Rare 2026 Solar Eclipse

Bríet Ísis Elfar is not just one of Iceland’s biggest music stars. She’s an artist who embodies fearlessness, authenticity, and constant reinvention. Her breakout English-language single In Too Deep in 2018 introduced her sultry, soulful voice to the world, but it was her 2020 album Kveðja, Bríet that catapulted her to national stardom. She won “Album of the Year” and cemented herself as one of the country’s most influential female musicians.
Big Conversations in the Coziest Setting with Center Hotels
This interview is part of my In Bed With series, created in partnership with Center Hotels. Each conversation is recorded right in a bed at one of Center Hotels’ nine locations in downtown Reykjavík—keeping things cozy, relaxed, and a little unconventional. If you’re planning a stay in the city, you can use my code ATI25 to save 25% off at any Center Hotels location in Reykjavík.
Bríet’s Artistic & Spiritual Upbringing
Born in Reykjavík in 1999, Bríet grew up in a uniquely creative and spiritual household. Her father, Benedikt Elfar, taught her guitar and nurtured her love of jazz, while her mother, Ásrún Laila Awad, led sweat-lodge ceremonies infused with mantra chanting and deep emotional connection.
Raised in this world of music, ritual, and radical openness, Bríet developed both resilience and a powerful sense of self.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFeYJr4JdIk		
From Jazz Bars to Center Stage
From singing jazz in Reykjavík restaurants for a hamburger and 5,000 krónur, to debuting her original work on the stage of Sónar Reykjavík, Bríet’s journey has been anything but ordinary. She’s unapologetically experimental, whether making plastic “glass” dresses with her longtime fashion collaborator, diving into collaborative projects like 1000 orð with rapper Birnir, or writing songs that transform heartbreak into catharsis.
Bríet’s Radical Honesty as a Creative Force
Known for her raw honesty, she has openly shared struggles with belonging, heartbreak, and personal growth. Yet through it all, her guiding philosophy remains simple: don’t take life too seriously, embrace failure, and always follow the intuition of the heart.
At a Turning Point, Always Becoming
Today, Bríet stands at a new turning point—after years of acclaim, collaborations with major Icelandic artists like Ásgeir Trausti and Friðrik Dór, and millions of streams worldwide, she continues to chase the unknown.
Whether sitting next to global icons in Tokyo or returning to her roots in a sweat lodge in Iceland, Bríet carries a rare ability to turn both joy and pain into beauty.
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Thanks for listening. Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótega.

Bríet Ísis Elfar – Interview with Iceland’s Fearless Pop Visionary

There’s a lot of advice about traveling to Iceland, and not all of it is helpful. In this podcast episode, I’m breaking down five common Iceland travel myths that end up quietly costing travelers time, money, and energy.
From unrealistic expectations about weather to misunderstandings around driving and seasons, this episode will help you spot the assumptions that derail trips before they even begin.
The 5 Iceland Travel Myths That Mislead Visitors
Myth 1: “Iceland is always freezing cold”
  
Iceland has a reputation for being brutally cold, but that’s not actually true year-round — or even most of the time. Thanks to the Gulf Stream, temperatures are often milder than people expect, especially along the coast. The bigger challenge for travelers is usually wind and changing weather, not extreme cold. When people assume “freezing,” they often overpack or misunderstand what conditions they’re really preparing for.
Myth 2: “You need extreme winter clothing”
  
Many travelers assume they need expedition-level gear just to survive Iceland, which leads to overpacking and overspending. In reality, what matters most is layering properly, not wearing the heaviest gear possible. Waterproof and windproof layers are far more important than bulky items. Dressing smartly, not excessively, makes travel easier, more comfortable, and more flexible.
Myth 3: “Winter driving is too dangerous for tourists”
  
Winter driving in Iceland isn’t automatically dangerous, but it does require preparation and realistic expectations. Many visitors drive safely every winter by choosing appropriate vehicles, monitoring weather forecasts, and adjusting their plans when needed. Conditions vary significantly by region and day, which is why flexibility and local awareness matter more than fear. The real risk comes from underestimating the conditions, not from driving itself.
Myth 4: “It’s completely dark in Iceland during winter”
  
While daylight hours are shorter in winter, Iceland is not in total darkness. Even around the winter solstice, there are several hours of daylight, including long twilight periods. Many travelers are surprised by how usable the day still feels — especially when plans are adjusted to match daylight windows. Understanding how daylight actually works makes winter travel far less intimidating.
Myth 5: “You can only see the Northern Lights in winter”
  
Winter is the most popular season for Northern Lights viewing, but it’s not the only time they appear. The aurora can be visible in late fall and early spring as well — whenever skies are dark enough and solar activity cooperates. The key factors are darkness, clear skies, and patience, not just the season itself. This myth often causes people to unnecessarily limit their travel options.
The Real Issue: Assumptions, Not Bad Decisions
Most Iceland travel mistakes aren’t about bad decisions, they’re about bad assumptions. When travelers rely on oversimplified advice or viral content, they often plan trips that don’t match reality. Once those assumptions are corrected, Iceland becomes far easier and more enjoyable to explore.
Plan Iceland With Clarity, Not Guesswork
If you’re planning a trip to Iceland and feeling overwhelmed by conflicting information, I want to invite you to my Live Iceland Trip Planning Workshop happening on January 31st, 2026. It’s the first workshop of the year and is especially helpful if you’re planning a trip for 2026 or beyond and want a strong head start.
This is a live, interactive workshop where I walk you through how to plan your trip realistically — from driving distances and timing, to choosing the right season, and building an itinerary that actually works.
You’ll also be able to ask me your questions in real time, which is honestly one of the most valuable parts. I also do a giveaway at the end of the workshop, including Iceland-related prizes. One of those prizes is a one-on-one video trip consultation with me, which is usually fully booked since I only open a few slots each year.
If you want clarity, confidence, and a solid plan instead of stress, you can find all the details and sign up using the link in the show notes or here 👉🏾https://all-things-iceland.teachable.com/p/iceland-trip-planning-workshop
Random Fact of the Episode
Winter can be very dry in Iceland. I know that sounds strange since we often some sort of precipitation, like rain or snow, but the air is dry and that can wreak havoc on your skin. If you are prone to having dryness, make sure you double up on your moisturizer when you are here.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Goðsögn – myth
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

5 Iceland Travel Myths – Winter Edition

If you’ve ever looked at a map of Iceland and thought,  “Oh wow, it’s tiny — we can totally see everything,” you are not alone.
I hear this all the time. And honestly? It makes sense.  Iceland looks small on a map, but traveling through it is a very different experience.
I’m going to explain why Iceland being ‘small’ is actually misleading, and how that misunderstanding causes a lot of travelers to overpack their itineraries, underestimate drive times, and end up more stressed than they expected.
https://youtu.be/H9-PBrpRFjA		
How Map Illusion Makes Iceland’s Size Confusing
Yes, Iceland is about the size of Kentucky.  But unlike many places, almost all travel happens on a single main road, and that road isn’t a straight highway from point A to point B.
Driving in Iceland involves:

Winding roads

One-lane bridges

Changing weather

Sudden stops because… well… waterfalls, sheep, and stunning landscapes


For example, Reykjavík to Vík doesn’t look far, but that drive alone can take 2.5 to 3 hours, and that’s without stopping. And no one ever drives Iceland without stopping.
Now add:

Limited daylight in winter

Weather delays

Gravel roads

Fatigue from constant visual stimulation


Suddenly, “just one more stop” becomes the thing that breaks your day.
This is where travelers get tripped up — they plan based on distance, not time.
I’ve seen itineraries that say: “Golden Circle in the morning, South Coast in the afternoon.”
Technically? Possible. Realistically? Exhausting.
I Learned the Hard Way
Even after living in Iceland for years, I still plan conservatively. Not because I can’t do more, but because I’ve learned the hard way. There have been a few times when I stuffed my itinerary so much that I felt tired, stressed, and annoyed. Traveling felt more like a chore than an adventure.
How to Realistically Plan a Trip to Iceland That is Personalized for You

If you’re planning a trip to Iceland and feeling overwhelmed by all the information out there, I want to invite you to my Live Iceland Trip Planning Workshop happening on January 31st, 2026. It is the first one of this year and is extremely helpful for getting a head start on planning your trip in Iceland for 2026 and beyond.
This is a live, interactive workshop where I help you understand how to plan your trip realistically, from driving distances and timing, to choosing the right season, and building an itinerary that actually works.
You’ll also be able to ask me your questions in real time, which is honestly one of the most valuable parts. I also do a giveaway of Iceland related prizes at the end of the workshop. One prize is a one-one video consultation with me, which is normally all booked up because I have few slots open for that throughout the year.
If you want clarity, confidence, and a solid plan instead of stress, here are is where you can secure your spot for the live workshop.
Random Fact of the Episode

The total length of the ring road or route 1 is 1,322 kilometres (821 mi), making it the longest ring road in Europe. It connects the majority of towns together in the most densely populated areas of the country.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Tími (tee-mi) — Time
A perfect reminder that in Iceland, planning by time, not distance, is what makes or breaks a trip.
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Iceland Is Small But Here’s Why That’s Misleading

Aldís Amah Hamilton is a trailblazing Icelandic actress, writer, and cultural icon. Born in Germany and raised in Reykjavík, she has starred in hit shows like The Valhalla Murders, Netflix’s Katla, and co-created the gripping series Black Sands. In 2019, she made history as the first woman of color to embody the Fjallkonan, Iceland’s national symbol on Independence Day in Reykjavík, which is the largest celebration and is televised around the country.
Beyond the screen, Aldís lends her voice to video games like Senua’s Saga: Hellblade II and Echoes of the End, and leads as chair of the Vegan Association of Iceland—advocating for plant-based living while shaping Iceland’s cultural landscape.
Save Big When You Stay in Reykjavík
The “In bed with” series is sponsored by Center Hotels and the interviews are recording at one of their hotels while I chat with my guests in a bed. They have 9 hotels in the center of Reykjavik and each of them is unique. To save 25% on your stay with Center Hotels use my code ATI25.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyWfVs_j36A		
The Previous Interview I did with Aldís Amah Years Ago
I was very fortunate to interveiw Aldís Amah Hamilton years before her acting career took off. Learn more about her childhood in Iceland by checking out that interview here – https://allthingsiceland.com/aldis-amah-biracial-iceland-interview/
Some of the Topics Aldís Amah  and I Spoke About During the Interview
✨ Breaking barriers in the Icelandic acting world✨ Making history as the Fjallkonan✨ Life as a vegan and her role in Iceland’s vegan community✨ What drives her authenticity on and off screen

						Live Iceland Trip Planning Workshop					
						On Saturday, October 4th, 2025, I’m hosting a Live Iceland Trip Planning Workshop. Get local expertise to help cut through confusion and plan your trip with ease.

						Click Here					
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

A Pioneering Icelandic Actress – Aldís Amah Hamilton

If I could go back to my very first trip to Iceland in 2013, knowing what I know now after living here for over nine years and traveling extensively around the country, there are three major things I would do differently. And I think these are going to help you as you’re planning your own adventure here.
1. Understanding how Daylight Hours Impact Travel Plans in Iceland
When I came here for the first time, I knew the days were shorter in winter, but I wasn’t prepared for how short they were. Imagine only having four hours of daylight in December, with the sun rising around 11 a.m. That completely changes how much you can see and do in a day. Had I planned with that in mind, I could’ve maximized my time so much better.
2. Take Driving Distances around Iceland in to Consideration While Planning
This one surprised me the most. Iceland looks small on a map compared to other countries, but trust me, it’s not as quick to get around as you think. For example, the stunning Stuðlagil canyon in East Iceland? It’s about a seven-and-a-half-hour drive from Reykjavík. That’s just one of the hundreds of incredible places you might want to see. If you don’t account for drive times, you’ll either be rushed or miss out on places you were hoping to experience.
3. Building Flexibility into Your Plan
Icelandic weather can change dramatically no matter the season. A severe windstorm or heavy snow could shut down access to an area, which means your plans may need to pivot. The good news is, with the right approach, you can build in alternatives, so your trip is still amazing even if the weather forces you to adjust.
Expert Help for Your Planning Your Trip to Iceland
Now, these are just a few of the things I’ll be diving into in my Iceland Trip Planning Workshop happening on October 4th. In this one-hour live, interactive session, I’ll walk you through a proven framework for creating your own 5-day itinerary in Iceland—without spending hours scrolling blogs and piecing together random tips from social media.
In just one hour, you will:✅ Cut through the confusion and know exactly where to start✅ Learn a proven framework for planning any 5-day Iceland trip✅ Get insider tips from someone who actually lives in and travels around Iceland✅ Walk away with practical steps you can put into action immediately
What’s included in the Live Iceland Trip Planning Workshop

A one-hour live, interactive planning session with me
Replay access for up to 16 days afterward
Practical steps to build an itinerary that fits your personal travel style
Fun giveaways of Iceland-related prizes during the live session
Plus, a 15% discount code for My Iceland Map, which has over 300 of my personal recommendations of what to do and see around the country

Use this link to save your seat at the workshop – https://all-things-iceland.teachable.com/p/iceland-trip-planning-workshop
And because I love to reward action-takers, the first 50 people to register will get 15% off the workshop price with the code “Save15”.
So if you’ve been dreaming of Iceland but feel overwhelmed with where to start, this workshop will save you time, stress, and confusion—and help you make the most out of your trip.
Random Fact of the Episode
I had no idea at the time in 2013 that I would for sure move to Iceland but I do know that the visit left such a profound impact on me that I was adamant about visiting again in June of 2014. 
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Námskeið – course or in this case I am using it for workshop, such as the Iceland Trip Planning Workshop
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

3 Things I Wish I Knew Before Visiting Iceland for the First Time

Since bursting onto the scene in 1993, Páll Óskar—also known as Paul Oscar—has been turning heads, moving hips, and breaking boundaries. He’s not just a singer. He’s a performer, a provocateur, a fearless icon who has never shied away from being exactly who he is—openly gay, genre-bending, and unapologetically fabulous.
And let me tell you, he’s not slowing down anytime soon. His music and style have evolved over the decades, but his bold spirit and commitment to authenticity have never wavered. Whether he’s belting it out with the Iceland Symphony Orchestra or dancing down Reykjavík’s Laugavegur during Pride on a sparkling unicorn float (yes, really!), Páll brings all the drama in the best way possible.
https://youtu.be/Xvow55EE6ak		
Save Big When You Stay in Reykjavík, Iceland
This episode is sponsored by Center Hotels, who is also a proud sponsor of Pride in Reykjavík.
To save big when you stay in any of their 9 hotels, use code ATI25 for 25% off.
Some of the Topics Páll Óskar and I Discussed during the Interview

The attitude towards artists in Iceland
His incredibly talented Family 
Why trends spreads so quickly in Iceland 
His family’s response after coming out in the 80s
Reconciling with his father after not being accepted as Gay
The change in Iceland toward the LGBTQ+ community
Being an artist and an activist in a small society
The pressure of having a famous older sibling
Owing Donna Summer & African Americans his whole life
Páll Óskar’s idea of the perfect Pride Parade
The Grindr scandal
Why representation matters in all forms
Páll Óskar’s Controversial Eurovision Performance
His advice for emerging artists

Check out Páll Óskar’s Music
If you want to dance to awesome Icelandic pop music spanning from the 90s until present day, check out Páll Óskar’s music here.
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

More Than Music: Iceland’s Pop Icon Páll Óskar on Life, Love & Legacy

I recently stayed at Harmony Lodge, and let me tell you… it blew me away.
If the idea of relaxing in a private sauna and hot tub, surrounded by Icelandic nature — and away from the tourist crowds — sounds like a dream, then keep listening. I’ll also be sharing an exclusive discount you can use to save up to 25% on your own stay at Harmony Lodge.
My Stay at Harmony Lodge:
  
Nestled in the serene South Icelandic countryside, this incredible place is just 10 minutes from Seljalandsfoss, one of the most famous waterfalls in the country. Despite being so close to big attractions, it feels completely remote. You won’t hear cars. You won’t see crowds. You’re just surrounded by open land, mossy hills, and stunning views.
Each lodge is built with floor-to-ceiling glass walls, giving you panoramic views of the landscape. From the moment I stepped inside, I felt like I had entered a warm, cozy bubble where I could completely unwind. The design is minimal yet luxurious — Scandinavian style with Icelandic charm.
And get this — every lodge comes with its own private sauna and hot tub. I honestly don’t think I’ve ever felt so relaxed after a day of exploring. Sitting in the hot tub at sunset with the fresh Icelandic air around me and the quiet of nature all around… It’s the kind of peaceful you can’t describe — you have to experience it.
Perfect Base for Exploring the South Coast:
  
Another thing I loved is how Harmony Lodge strikes the perfect balance: peaceful seclusion, but super close to the major sites.
From the lodge, you’re:

10 minutes from Seljalandsfoss
30 minutes from Skógafoss
Just over an hour from Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach
Close to Þórsmörk, Eyjafjallajökull, and many more iconic stops.

You can easily explore during the day, then come back to complete privacy and calm — no busy hotels, no noisy hallways, no stress.
Special Discount to save on Harmony Lodge for All Things Iceland Listeners:
Now, here’s the exciting part — I have an exclusive discount for All Things Iceland listeners and followers!
✨ Use code JEWELLS10 at checkout to save 10% on your stay at Harmony Lodge.
Even better — if you book two nights or more for a stay between now and August 31st, 2025, you can combine my 10% code with their current 15% discount. That’s 25% off total!
🗓️ The discount code is valid until July 31st, 2025, and you can book for any stay up until December 31st, 2025.
Just go to: https://harmonyretreatlodge.comAnd enter JEWELLS10 at checkout.
Why Harmony Lodge Might Be Right for You
  
Whether you’re visiting Iceland for the first time, or you’ve been here before, staying at Harmony Lodge is such a special experience. It’s perfect for:

Couples on a romantic getaway
Travelers looking to unplug and relax
Nature lovers and photographers
And anyone who wants to experience Iceland in a deeper, more tranquil way

And I think we all deserve a little luxury and stillness sometimes — especially in a country as beautiful as this.
If you end up staying there, please let me know what you think! I’d love to hear about your experience.
Random Fact of the Episode
The ferry to the Westman Island is just a short drive from the lodge. On a clear day, you can even see the islands from Harmony lodge which is awesome. The 50-minute ferry ride to Vestmannaeyja is totally worth it, especially in the summer.
Heimaey is such a fun and special place to visit. You can easily drive around the island and do different activities in just one day. I highly recommend adding this island to your itinerary.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
jafnvægi – harmony
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Is This Iceland’s Best-Kept Secret Stay? – Harmony Lodge Tour

I have some deeply personal and exciting news to share with you today…
I’m pregnant! 🍼💫
My mind is still blown that there is a tiny human growing inside of me. It’s been such a surreal, emotional, and beautiful experience. And honestly, it’s made me fall in love with this country in a whole new way.
This journey has already taught me so much — about Iceland’s healthcare system, the incredible prenatal care here, and yes, even the costs and cultural norms around pregnancy. So I’ll be sharing periodic pregnancy updates right here on the podcast, and also on YouTube, Instagram, and my other social channels. If you’re curious about what it’s like to be pregnant in Iceland — from ultrasounds to maternity leave to navigating it all as a foreigner — stay tuned.
I just hit the 20-week mark, which means I’m officially halfway!
How I am Celebrating Being 20 Weeks Pregnant
To celebrate this life-changing milestone with you — my amazing community — I’m offering 25% off The Savvy Traveler’s Guide to Iceland for a limited time. Whether you’re planning your first trip or returning for another magical adventure, this guide is packed with tips to make your Iceland visit smoother, richer, and more meaningful.
🎉 Use the code june25 at checkout to get 25% off!
  
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Thank you for being part of this journey with me — and now with us. 💛 Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Why My Life in Iceland Will Never Be the Same

If you’ve listened to this podcast for a while or reading my posts, you’ve probably heard me mention that Iceland is one of the safest countries in the world—and that’s absolutely true in many ways. Violent crime is incredibly rare, and the sense of community and trust is deeply woven into Icelandic society.
But today, we need to talk about a growing concern—something that’s caught many tourists off guard: a rise in pickpocketing incidents, particularly in the south of Iceland, including well-traveled areas like Reykjavík, Þingvellir, Geysir, Gullfoss, and even inside churches like Hallgrímskirkja.
Iceland is Still Safe?
Let me be clear: Iceland remains a safe place to travel. But just like anywhere that attracts large numbers of tourists, it’s not immune to the realities of opportunistic crime. And recently, we’ve seen a sharp increase in reports of pickpocketing—specifically targeting visitors at popular natural landmarks.
Police in South Iceland have been investigating what appears to be a well-organised group—possibly ten individuals—who are blending into crowds at major tourist sites. These aren’t random thieves. According to local authorities and park rangers, they use a highly coordinated strategy, working in teams to distract and steal from unsuspecting tourists.
How the Pickpockets Operate in Iceland
Let’s take the geyser Strokkur in the Haukadalur Valley. When it erupts, hundreds of people gather to witness the spectacle—it’s loud, dramatic, and absolutely worth seeing. But as your eyes are glued to the steam and water shooting into the sky, pickpockets might be watching you.
They blend into the crowd, posing as fellow tourists. Some act as lookouts, some distract by chatting or even offering to take photos, and others use the distraction to reach into backpacks, pockets, or crossbody bags.
Stolen items—mostly cash in euros, dollars, pounds, or krónur—are passed quickly to accomplices, making it hard to trace who took what.
And this isn’t just happening at Strokkur. Similar reports have come from Gullfoss, Þingvellir, and even Reykjavík’s iconic Hallgrímskirkja church. In fact, the church recently posted warning signs at its entrance after a string of thefts occurred inside during visiting hours.
  
Prevention Tips – Simple, Smart, Effective
So, what can you do to avoid being targeted?
Here are some practical, simple things you can do to stay safe:

Use anti-theft bags. Look for ones with lockable zippers, cut-proof straps, and compartments that rest against your body.
Keep valuables close. A money belt worn under your clothing is ideal for passports, IDs, and cash.
Stay aware. If someone approaches you offering help, conversation, or to take your photo—especially in a crowded space—be friendly but cautious.
Avoid back pockets. Never store your wallet or phone in a back pocket. It’s just too easy to snatch.
Limit what you carry. Only take what you’ll need for the day—leave extra cards, cash, and your passport locked up at your accommodation.
Be mindful in crowds. Places like Strokkur, Geysir, and the viewing platforms at Þingvellir draw hundreds of people. These moments of awe are unfortunately prime time for thieves.

And one more thing: if the worst does happen and you are robbed, call 112—Iceland’s emergency services number. Also, make sure you have digital copies of your documents in a secure, password-protected folder, ideally emailed to yourself or saved in cloud storage.
  
 When & Where PickPocket Groups Strike the Most
According to park rangers and local authorities, these organised pickpocket groups tend to appear in February, March, and July—timing their activities around peak tourism periods. They often arrive early in the morning, scout areas like Þingvellir’s Hakið viewpoint above the Almannagjá gorge, and move on from site to site in a very methodical way.
This isn’t just some random occurrence—it’s a planned effort by individuals who know exactly what they’re doing and how to blend in. However, when and where they can do it might change so it is best to protect your belongings at all times.
How to Keep Each Other Safe
If you’re traveling with friends or family, look out for one another. And if you’re a tour guide or part of a travel group, report anything suspicious immediately to local police. The more reports that are filed, the better chance authorities have to stop these incidents before they escalate.
I’ll also include links in the show notes to recent news articles and official resources so you can stay informed and take proactive steps during your visit.
While this isn’t the most fun topic to cover, I believe it’s important to be honest and help you travel smart. Iceland is a stunning, unforgettable place—and I want you to enjoy every breathtaking waterfall, moss-covered lava field, and cultural experience without the stress of losing your wallet or passport.
Random Fact of the Episode
Petty crime in Iceland has been around for a long time but it mostly involved locals being targeted. A good example is bike thefts that have happened over the years.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Vasaþjólfur – pickpocket
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.    

Iceland Faces Pickpocket Surge: How to Keep Your Belongings Safe

Summer in Iceland is just around the corner, so I’m diving into a topic that comes up a lot—how to dress and pack for summer in Iceland.
Whether you’re planning to explore glaciers, wander lava fields, hike to waterfalls, or just soak in the geothermal goodness, dressing right for Iceland’s unpredictable summer weather is key to staying warm, dry, and comfortable.
Summer Months in Iceland
First things first, let’s talk about when summer happens in Iceland. While summer technically runs from June through August, things start to warm up by mid-May and stay fairly mild through early September.
But don’t let the word “summer” fool you. Unlike tropical destinations, Icelandic summer is more about long daylight hours than high temperatures.
Average Summer Temperatures
On average, summer temperatures in Iceland range from 45°F to 60°F (that’s about 7°C to 15°C). On sunny days, it can feel warmer—especially if you’re hiking or layering correctly—but the wind and rain can sneak up on you. So, the key word here is layers!
What Are Layers, and Why Do They Matter?
If you’re not familiar with the concept of layering clothes, here’s a quick breakdown below with my recommendations:

						My Free Ultimate Packing Checklist for Summer in Iceland					
						Essentials and non-essentials to pack for your summer adventure. In addition are my favorite summer pieces from 66 North and a 10% to save on that brand & more.

						Click Here					
The Base Layer
This is your first layer, the one closest to your skin. It should be moisture-wicking, meaning it pulls sweat away from your body so you stay dry. Think lightweight wool or synthetic materials—not cotton. A good base layer helps regulate your body temperature, even when you’re active.
My recommendation for a Base Layer:

Ljosfjöll Hoodie – Lightweight, breathable, and a perfect first layer against your skin. Keeps you warm without overheating.

The Mid Layer
  
The mid layer provides insulation. It traps heat to keep you warm, and you can add or remove this layer depending on the temperature. Fleece, wool sweaters, or insulated vests work great here. Think of this as your “cozy” layer.
My recommendations for a Mid Layer:

Kaldi Off White Sweater – This one is a classic Icelandic wool-style mid-layer. It’s stylish, warm, and breathable.
Tindur Pelican Jacket – A technical shearling mid-layer that works well alone or under a shell.
Kellir Down Vest – A lightweight puffer vest that adds warmth without bulk.
Kria Hybrid Hoodie – Water-resistant, warm, and highly packable. Perfect for high-energy hikes or windy coastlines.

The Outer Layer
  
This layer protects you from the elements—wind, rain, or even sleet (yes, even in summer). A high-quality shell jacket and weather-resistant pants will block wind and repel water, helping you stay dry no matter what Iceland throws your way.
My recommendations for an Outer Layer:

Snæfell  Shell Jacket – Fully waterproof and windproof. A must-have. I’ve used it on rainy glacier hikes and it held up beautifully.
Borgir Women’s Pants – These Gore Infinium pants are water-resistant, comfy, and move with you.

Want to Save 10% on 66°North?
If you’d like to save 10% on 66°North clothing—including the items I just mentioned—use this link. To see my favorite summer pieces from 66 North sold via Aktiv Style, use this link.
What’s extra awesome is that the link takes you to Aktiv Style, a U.S.-based company in Denver. They’re the only U.S. retailer with exclusive rights to sell 66°North clothing. That means you can shop your favorite Icelandic outerwear and get faster shipping—no need to wait weeks for it to arrive from Iceland.
All of my summer faves and much more are in my free Ultimate Checklist for Summer in Iceland. It also includes the discount link, and a discount code to save 10% on 66 North and all other brands on Aktiv Style’s website.
Hiking Boots
There are so many wonderful hiking trails to explore during summer in Iceland. Having sturdy hiking boots with great ankle support and grip are a must.
My favorite hiking boots are from Aku and they have been incredible on glaciers, in the highlands, and on long distance trails. They have also lasted me for years.
Accessories

Vik Gloves – Lightweight and wind-resistant. Great for breezy days or glacier tours.
Surtsey Hat – Warm, snug, and stylish. Plus, it covers your ears, which is essential when the wind picks up.

My Ultimate Summer Packing List
I’ve created My Ultimate Summer Packing List for Iceland, which includes everything you need—from layers to accessories, plus my personal favorites from 66°North in the Aktiv Style store are linked. I’ll drop the link in the show notes so you can easily check it out.
Random Fact of the Episode
When I first moved to Iceland in June of 2016, I was not accustomed to the cooler temperatures, especially coming from the higher temperatures in NYC. A high of 55 degrees was chilly to me.
While I was walking around with a sweater and jacket, Icelanders were wearing shorts and a t-shirt. I never thought I would get accustomed to this type of summer weather but after almost 9 years of living here, 55 degrees Fahrenheit feels warm to me.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Sumarföt – summer clothes
Packing for Iceland in summer doesn’t have to be stressful. Stick to smart layers, quality outerwear, and versatile accessories, and you’ll be ready for whatever this magical country throws your way.
Check out the Ultimate Packing Checklist for Summer in Iceland, and don’t forget to use my discount link to grab 10% off some of the best outerwear for Icelandic weather.
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Iceland in Summer: How to Dress Like a Local (and Stay Dry!)

Whether you’re a fan of classical, experimental, indie rock, jazz, or even Cuban-inspired grooves, Iceland’s capital offers a surprising variety of venues catering to every musical taste. Today, I’m taking you on a virtual tour of some of the most beloved — and sometimes overlooked — places to catch a live performance in and around Reykjavík.
So, let’s crank up the volume and dive in!
1. Harpa Concert Hall – Iceland’s Premier Music Venue
Let’s start with the crown jewel of Reykjavík’s music venues: Harpa. This stunning glass building by the harbor is not just an architectural icon — it’s a world-class concert hall. Harpa is home to the Iceland Symphony Orchestra and Icelandic Opera, so it’s your go-to for classical music, opera, and large-scale productions.
But don’t be fooled — Harpa also hosts jazz nights, electronic music events, and international artists across genres. The acoustics here are unmatched, and the setting? Simply magical.
2. Gamla Bíó
A short walk from Harpa is Gamla Bíó, or “The Old Cinema.” This historic venue has been transformed into a cozy concert hall with vintage charm. Expect indie rock, folk, pop, and the occasional orchestral ensemble. It’s an intimate setting with incredible sound, perfect for catching Icelandic artists and touring international acts in a space that feels like a hidden gem.
3. Hús Mál og Menningar
Now, let’s talk about one of my personal favorites: Hús Mál og Menningar, right on Laugavegur, Reykjavík’s main shopping street. This bookstore-slash-bar is a cultural hub, and the upstairs stage is often alive with acoustic sets, singer-songwriter sessions, jazz, and even spoken word. The vibe here is chill, creative, and unmistakably Icelandic — it’s where you can sip a drink, browse books, and hear something totally unexpected, all in one evening.
4. Mengi
If you’re into avant-garde, experimental, or contemporary classical music, Mengi is the place. Located in a small venue on Óðinsgata, this artist-run space regularly features performances by composers, interdisciplinary artists, and improvisational musicians. It’s intimate, forward-thinking, and always pushing the boundaries of what live music can be.
5. Salurinn (Kópavogur) — Special Highlight
And just a short ride outside Reykjavík in Kópavogur is Salurinn, a beautiful, acoustically rich concert hall often hosting classical, jazz, and world music.
And here’s something you won’t want to miss: On May 31st, Icelandic musician Halli Guðmunds will be performing live at Salurinn with a six-piece band. What makes this show special? The group will be playing Cuban-inspired music and original tunes, blending Latin rhythms with Icelandic flair.
It promises to be a night of danceable beats, sophisticated arrangements, and pure joy. If you’re anywhere near Reykjavík at the end of May — mark your calendar. You’ll be treated to a one-of-a-kind musical journey.
Click here for tickets for Club Cubano.
6. Lemmy
On the edgier side, we have Lemmy, Reykjavík’s go-to bar for rock, punk, and metal fans. The energy here is high-octane, the drinks are flowing, and the crowd is passionate. It’s the kind of place where you go to let loose and discover bands that might just blow your mind. Lemmy is carrying the torch for Reykjavík’s hard rock community — gritty, loud, and unapologetically fun.
7. Gaukurinn (currently closed for renovations)
Gaukurinn, one of Reykjavík’s key underground venues, is temporarily closed for renovations. When open, it’s a haven for alternative music, from hardcore and punk to drag shows and open mics. We’ll be watching closely for its return because this venue has long been a platform for some of the boldest, rawest talent in the country.
8. Dillon Whiskey Bar
If you’re craving classic rock vibes with a cozy, old-school atmosphere, Dillon is the place. Nestled in a wooden house near Laugavegur, Dillon has a great whiskey selection, a rustic upstairs stage, and a lineup of bluesy rock, acoustic, and local acts. It’s the kind of venue where the walls feel like they’ve soaked up every riff and chorus played there. Expect unpretentious fun and some real gems in the lineup.
9. 12 Tónar
Now, 12 Tónar isn’t your typical music venue — it’s a legendary record store that doubles as a cultural space. Tucked away in a charming yellow house near the Reykjavík Art Museum, it regularly hosts free, intimate concerts by Icelandic musicians. It’s a cozy place where you can discover local talent, sip espresso, and flip through vinyl all at once. Music lovers, this is your sanctuary.
Get Out There & Enjoy Music in Reykjavik
So whether you’re looking for a symphony under stunning architecture, an underground rock show, an intimate acoustic set in a bookstore, or Cuban rhythms in Kópavogur — Reykjavík’s live music scene has something for everyone.
As always, I’ll include links to each venue and the upcoming show at Salurinn in the show notes. Be sure to check them out and support these incredible artists and spaces keeping Iceland’s musical spirit alive and thriving.
Random Fact of the Episode
The Guardian wrote an article last year titled “Torn down for hotel rooms: Iceland’s famous music venues swallowed by tourism”
Reykjavík’s once-thriving live music scene is under pressure as the city grapples with the effects of a booming tourism industry. With more visitors arriving each year, demand for hotels and short-term accommodations has surged. In response, several beloved music venues have been closed or repurposed to make way for new developments — including Kex Hostel, Sirkus, Nasa, and Faktory — spaces that once played a vital role in launching and supporting Icelandic music talent.
This shift has sparked concern among local musicians and cultural advocates who worry that the closure of small to mid-sized venues could damage the ecosystem that helps new artists grow. These smaller spaces have long served as stepping stones for creatives before they reach larger stages.
Recognizing the issue, Icelandic authorities are beginning to implement policies and provide funding to help preserve what’s left of the local music infrastructure. The hope is to find a balance between economic gains from tourism and protecting Reykjavík’s cultural identity, especially its globally admired music scene.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Tónlist – music
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Reykjavík’s Live Music Venues — From Harpa to Hidden Gems

I’m taking you on a journey back in time to uncover the story behind how Iceland got its name. This tale involves three adventurous Norsemen who each left their mark on this rugged island, but only one name endured through history.
The First Two Vikings That Tried to Name The Landmass
To hear the whole story about the first two Vikings that named this country, I have included that in The Savvy Traveler’s Guide to Iceland. 
I created The Savvy Traveler’s Guide to Iceland, a comprehensive 8-module video guide that walks you through everything you need to know before visiting. I even have a whole module dedicated to Icelandic History in a Nutshell, where I talk about how Iceland was formed, settlement, the transition from paganism to Christianity, and tons more.
Not only that, but when you get the guide, you’ll have lifetime access, bonus itineraries to make planning easier, and access to my free and private Facebook group, where I share specially curated Iceland travel posts and do a live Q&A each month!
If you want to feel completely confident and stress-free about your trip, you can check out The Savvy Traveler’s Guide to Iceland
  
The Viking That Named Iceland
In 868 AD, a Viking named Flóki Vilgerðarson set sail from Norway with the full intention of settling in Iceland. He wasn’t just any Viking—he was known as Hrafna-Flóki or “Raven Flóki.” He got this nickname because he brought three ravens with him to help navigate the open seas.
Once he reached the Faroe Islands, Flóki released his ravens one by one. The first flew back toward the Faroes, the second circled and returned to the boat, and the third flew northwest and never came back. Flóki, believing this meant land was nearby, followed the third raven—and sure enough, he reached Iceland.
Flóki and his companions settled in Vatnsfjörður in the Westfjords. The summer was warm and full of fish, so they focused all their efforts on fishing instead of preparing for the harsh winter ahead. When the cold finally set in, disaster struck. Without enough hay, all their livestock perished. By spring, they had no choice but to leave.
Before departing, Flóki climbed a mountain and looked out over the fjords. He saw thick ice covering the waters and, in his frustration, named the land Ísland—Iceland. Unlike the previous names, this one stuck, and the island has been called Iceland ever since.
A Viking’s Regret & A Land of Opportunity 
What’s fascinating is that when Flóki returned to Norway, he had nothing good to say about Iceland. He believed it was a harsh, uninhabitable land. However, one of his crew members, Thorólf, disagreed.
He spread rumors that Iceland was so abundant that butter dripped from every blade of grass! This contrasting view sparked curiosity, and soon, more settlers followed, leading to the beginning of permanent Norse settlement in Iceland.
Random Fact of the Episode
Beyond the Viking Names: Ultima Thule & Nordic Identity Before Iceland had an official name, ancient Roman and Greek texts referred to mysterious lands in the far north as Ultima Thule, meaning “the farthest place beyond the known world.”
In the Middle Ages, some maps labeled Iceland as Thule and Greenland as Ultima Thule. Interestingly, by the 19th century, people started associating Thule with Norway instead.
While Iceland’s name may have been given by a frustrated Viking, the settlers who followed developed a strong sense of identity as Íslendingar—people of Iceland. Despite their ties to the greater Nordic world, they wanted to maintain their distinct culture, which still thrives today.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Áfram Ísland – Let’s go Iceland!
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How Iceland Got its Name

I’m diving into an important yet often overlooked aspect of driving in Iceland—the unique rules of two-lane roundabouts. Even if you are from Europe, there is a good chance that Iceland does two-lane roundabouts a little different than what you expect.
How to Save Money on Your Rental Car in Iceland
Before we get into that, I want to give a shout-out to our amazing sponsors, Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers.
I actually use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.
They’ve also given me a link so you can save 7% on your rental, plus get a couple of really useful extras.
With Go Car Rental, you’ll save 7% and get free 4G WiFi with your rental.
With Go Campers, you’ll save 7% and get a free sleeping bag included.
You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsicelandfor the discounts.
Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.
For Go Car:When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added.
For Go Campers:Choose a sleeping bag under the “Sleeping” section, and same thing, the total price won’t increase.
And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.
Why Are Iceland’s Two-Lane Roundabouts Unique? 
Roundabouts exist in many countries, but Iceland’s two-lane roundabouts come with specific rules that often catch foreign drivers off guard. If you’ve ever rented a car in Iceland or plan to, knowing these rules will save you a lot of confusion—and possibly a fender bender!
The key thing to know about Iceland’s two-lane roundabouts is that the inner lane (the one closest to the center) has the right of way. This is different from many other countries where the outer lane might have priority. Here’s how it works:

When entering a two-lane roundabout, you should choose your lane before entering.

If you plan to take the first exit, you should be in the outer lane (right lane).
If you plan to go straight or take any further exits, you should be in the inner lane (left lane).


Once inside the roundabout, changing lanes is not allowed. This means if you entered in the inner lane, you must continue in that lane until you exit.
If you’re in the outer lane and another driver is in the inner lane, you must yield to the inner lane driver if they need to exit. This is where most accidents happen because foreign drivers don’t expect this rule.
When exiting, use your turn signal to indicate your intention, just like you would in any other roundabout.

Two-Lane Roundabout Example in Iceland
The first image shows two cars entering a two-lane roundabout in Iceland. The orange car is in the inside lane (left) and the pink car is in the outer land (right).
  
Below shows the the exits that the pink car (outer lane) can take.
  
And here are the exits that the orange car (inner lane) can take.
  
This example is showing if the orange car is entering the two-lane roundabout in the inner lane on the bottom and the pink car is coming from the right in t he outerlane.
  
As a reminder, the pink car can either go to the first or second exit. In this example, it will be going to the second exit.
  
Since the pink car and the orange car are in close proximity to each other, the pink car is the one that gives the right of way, since the orange car is in the inner lane.
  
The pink car (outer lane) must stop and let the orange car (inner lane) exit before continuing on to its second exit.
  
Why These Rules Matter?
Iceland’s road system is designed to keep traffic flowing smoothly, and roundabouts play a big role in that. However, every year, rental car companies report minor accidents in roundabouts because of misunderstandings about these rules. The last thing you want is to start your Iceland adventure with an accident or a costly insurance claim!

						The Savvy Traveler’s Guide to Iceland					
						Whether it’s your first time visiting Iceland or you have been several times before, this guide will help you explore Iceland like a local.
From the best things to see in every region of the country to hidden gems, I have you covered.

						Click Here					
The Savvy Traveler’s Guide to Iceland I created The Savvy Traveler’s Guide to Iceland, a comprehensive 8-module video guide that walks you through everything you need to know before visiting. I even have a whole module dedicated to getting around Iceland, covering types of transportation, car rentals, road rules, and so much more.
Not only that, but when you get the guide, you’ll have lifetime access, bonus itineraries to make planning easier, and access to my free and private Facebook group, where I share specially curated Iceland travel posts and do a live Q&A each month!
Random Fact of the Episode
You might notice that as you venture outside of the downtown Reykjavík area, that you will see less traffic lights, occasionally roundabouts, and long stretches of road. One of the many things I enjoy about the Icelandic countryside is that traffic lights are not necessary.
Roundabouts are used, when necessary, at intersections to slow vehicles down and allow for cars to head in different directions.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Hringtorg – roundabout
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Two-Lane Roundabouts are Different in Iceland – Know These Rules Before You Drive Here

If you’ve ever dreamed of exploring Iceland but felt overwhelmed with all the planning, or you’re just not sure how to make the most of your time here, then you’re in luck because I have the perfect solution.
The Savvy Traveler’s Guide to Iceland is officially live! And in today’s episode, I’m going to break down exactly how this brand-new video guide can help you experience Iceland like a local, save time and money, and remove the guesswork from your trip.
Plus, if you act fast, there are exclusive bonuses available until March 1st—One of those bonuses in particular can potentially save you hundreds of dollars. So let’s get into it!”
The Planning Struggle & Why This Guide Exists
I often hear from my followers on social media and from the hundreds of people that I have personally helped plan a trip to Iceland via my private consultations, that  planning a trip to Iceland can be overwhelming.
There’s so much information out there, and it’s hard to know what’s actually useful. Should you rent a car or book tours? What’s the best time to visit? How do you budget for food, fuel, and attractions? And then there’s the weather—unpredictable, wild, and capable of changing in an instant.
I created The Savvy Traveler’s Guide to Iceland because I’ve seen firsthand how travelers struggle with these exact questions. I have been living in and traveling around Iceland for 8.5 years, and I’ve taken my experience and knowledge and distilled it into this guide so  you can skip the overwhelm and enjoy creating a trip of a lifetime.
Over the years, I’ve shared tons of tips on this podcast, on my website, and through my social media, but there is still so much that I haven’t shared. Plus, I wanted to take my ability to help travelers to the next level and create a single, comprehensive resource that answers all these questions—and more.”
  
What’s Inside The Savvy Traveler’s Guide to Iceland?
It’s an easy-to-follow, self-paced video course broken down into eight in-depth modules that cover everything you need to know to plan your Iceland adventure. Let me walk you through them:

Icelandic History in a Nutshell – A quick yet fascinating overview of Iceland’s history, from Viking settlement to modern times.
The Spectacular Regions of Iceland – A breakdown of Iceland’s diverse landscapes and what makes each region special.
When to Visit Iceland – A guide to Iceland’s seasons, weather patterns, and how to choose the best time for your trip.
Getting Organized – Everything you need to know about planning your itinerary, booking accommodations, and securing activities.
Budgeting, Managing Expectations & Icelandic Phrases – Tips on how to budget wisely, avoid surprises, and learn useful Icelandic phrases for your trip.
Safety & Emergency Services – Essential information on staying safe while traveling in Iceland, including emergency contacts and weather precautions.
Getting Around Iceland – A deep dive into transportation options, from renting a car to taking buses and domestic flights.
Top Tips for Eating & Shopping in Iceland – How to navigate Iceland’s food scene and shop smart while traveling.

Each module is packed with practical tips, real-world insights, and things I’ve learned from living in Iceland and interacting with thousands of travelers over the years.
Included with those 8 modules is a private Facebook Group with likeminded travelers where I will post curated content and doing monthly group Q&A’s. There are also very detailed sample itineraries for 5-days, 7-days and 10-days, so you don’t have to start from scratch when it comes to making a travel plan. You can add or subtract from these itineraries in any way that suits you.
  
Exclusive Bonuses – Available Until March 1st!
“Now, here’s the part you don’t want to miss. Because The Savvy Traveler’s Guide to Iceland has just launched, I’m offering some amazing bonuses for those who sign up before March 1st! These bonuses include:

 A 15% Discount For a Car Rental with Go Car Rental Iceland: Save big on the renting a car in Iceland with this huge discount, which is not available anywhere else.
 A Free Icelandic Language Class from Óskar Speaking Viking: Get access to free a live class that will an introduce you to the Icelandic language. You’ll learn some great phrases that you can use during your trip from Óskar, an awesome Icelandic teacher.
 My Iceland Trip Planning Cheat Sheet: An instant download delivered to your in-box of my cheat sheet about how to plan a trip to Iceland. While the guide goes way more in-depth, this cheat sheet will provide key points to know for starting to plan your trip. This is not available anywhere else.
 20% Off My Iceland Map: I have created a map with hundreds of my recommendations around the country that you can use while exploring Iceland.

These bonuses will disappear after March 1st, so if you’re planning a trip in 2024 or beyond, now is the perfect time to grab the guide!”
  
Why The Savvy Traveler’s Guide to Iceland is Different?
You might be wondering—why should you choose The Savvy Traveler’s Guide to Iceland over just Googling information?
Here’s the thing: Iceland is a unique destination, and standard travel advice doesn’t always apply here. This guide isn’t just generic information—it’s real, actionable advice from someone who has helped countless travelers navigate Iceland with confidence. No more wasting hours piecing together conflicting advice from blogs and YouTube videos. Everything you need is in one place!
How to Get the Guide?
Alright, so how do you get access? It’s super easy. Just go to The Savvy Traveler’s Guide (link in the description and in the Trip Planning help tab sin the main navigation to sign up. Once you sign up, you’ll get instant access to all the modules and bonuses.
And remember—if you sign up before March 1st, you’ll also get access to those exclusive launch bonuses.
I want you to feel excited about your trip to Iceland, not stressed out by all the logistics. This guide is your key to experiencing Iceland like a local, making the most of your time, and avoiding the common mistakes that so many travelers make.
The Random Fact of the Episode:
There are over 50 videos and more than 12 hours of content spread across the 8 in-depth modules of the Savvy Travelers Guide to Iceland. You will see me onscreen in the videos and using visuals to showcase stunning places around the country, what to pack, types of accommodations and so much more.
The Icelandic Word of the Episode
leiðarvísir – guide
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Your Step-by-Step Guide to Planning an Awesome Trip to Iceland

“Why is Iceland so expensive?” is one of the most common questions I hear from travelers. After living in Iceland since 2016, I completely understand the sticker shock. Hotels, restaurants, rental cars, gas, and even groceries can cost considerably more than visitors expect.
But there are reasons Iceland costs so much, and, more importantly, there are plenty of ways to keep the cost of an Iceland trip under control.
Here are seven reasons Iceland is so expensive, plus some of my favorite ways to save money when traveling around the country.

						Save Money on Your Iceland Trip					
						Iceland might be expensive, but you don’t have to pay full price for everything. Grab my free Iceland Discount Code Bundle for exclusive savings on car rentals, camper vans, activities, accommodations, and more.

						Click Here For Discounts					

				Topics in this Article			
		https://youtu.be/Pkk2L6JXKQU		
1. Geographic Isolation
Iceland’s remote location in the North Atlantic significantly impacts its economy. With no land connections to other countries, all goods must be transported by air or sea. This means higher shipping costs, which are passed on to consumers. Everyday essentials like food, clothing, and electronics come at a premium because of the logistics involved in getting them to the island.
For example, grocery stores like Bónus and Krónan import a large percentage of their products, leading to higher-than-average food prices compared to mainland Europe or the U.S. A simple item like a gallon of milk can cost around 900 ISK ($6.99 USD).
The cost of fuel is also steep and can be as high as 330 ISK ($2.33 USD) per liter or about $8.85 a gallon, partly due to import costs and high taxes. This geographic isolation extends to supply chains for restaurants and retail, where prices reflect these transportation challenges.
Renting a car is often one of the biggest expenses of an Iceland trip. If you’re planning to drive, I’ve put together a free complete guide to renting a car in Iceland, including what type of vehicle you actually need, insurance, road rules, and ways to save.
2. High Taxes and Import Duties
Iceland has some of the highest taxes in the world, and these contribute significantly to the high cost of goods and services. The standard Value Added Tax (VAT) rate is 24%, with a reduced rate of 11% on certain goods like food and books.
However, even with the reduced VAT, prices remain high. Import duties on certain items, such as clothing and electronics, add even more costs. For example, a pair of Levi’s jeans that might cost $60 in the U.S. can easily be $120 in Iceland due to taxes and import fees.
Cars are also heavily taxed, with import duties, VAT, and registration fees sometimes doubling the cost compared to other countries. This means that even everyday expenses like transportation, dining out, and shopping feel significantly more expensive.
3. Market Dominance by Few Companies
Iceland’s small economy means that a handful of companies dominate key industries, limiting competition and keeping prices high. The food retail sector, for instance, is primarily controlled by Hagar, which owns Bónus, Hagkaup, and other supermarkets.
This lack of competition can result in inflated grocery prices. Similarly, the telecommunications industry is led by Síminn, Nova, and Vodafone, all of which maintain relatively high service costs. The same goes for banking—Arion Bank, Íslandsbanki, and Landsbankinn dominate the financial sector, and their fees for everyday banking services can be steep compared to other countries.
The lack of competition in these critical industries means that consumers have limited options, and businesses have little incentive to lower prices. Even in tourism, major players like Icelandair control air travel, which can keep flight prices elevated, especially during peak seasons.
4. Small Population and Limited Market
With a population of about 370,000 people, Iceland has a tiny consumer base. This makes it difficult for businesses to achieve economies of scale, which would normally help lower prices. In many industries, goods are produced or imported in small quantities, leading to higher per-unit costs.
This issue affects everything from groceries to household goods. Additionally, because the market is small, international companies may find it unprofitable to operate here, further limiting competition. For example, while fast food chains like McDonald’s thrive in most countries, the franchise left Iceland in 2009 due to the high costs of operation after the economic crash in 2008. Many products that are considered everyday essentials in larger countries are treated as premium items in Iceland due to the cost of importing and distributing them.
5. High Wages and Inflation
Iceland has some of the highest wages in Europe, with average salaries well above those in many neighboring countries. While this supports a high standard of living, it also drives up labor costs for businesses.
Higher wages mean that everything from restaurant meals to hotel stays comes with a premium price tag. In addition, inflation has been a persistent issue, causing prices to rise even further.
Iceland’s labor market is also influenced by strong unions, which negotiate higher wages and benefits, further contributing to increased costs for goods and services. Over time, these factors compound to make Iceland an expensive place to live and visit.
6. Tourism’s Impact on Housing and Services
The boom in Icelandic tourism over the past decade has led to an increase in prices for housing, accommodations, and services. The rise of Airbnb rentals has had a significant impact, as many property owners choose to rent to tourists rather than long-term tenants.
This has driven up housing prices and made it difficult for locals to find affordable accommodations. For example, the average rent for a one-bedroom apartment in downtown Reykjavik can be upwards of 250,000 ISK ($1,750 USD) per month.
Beyond housing, the demand from tourists has also pushed up prices for restaurants, excursions, and even groceries, as businesses cater more to visitors than to locals. The cost of a simple meal at a casual restaurant can easily exceed 3,500 ISK ($25 USD), and a cup of coffee might be 800 ISK ($6 USD).
While tourism has been a major economic driver, it has also contributed to inflation and the rising cost of living in Iceland.
7. Limited Domestic Production
Iceland’s harsh climate and small land area limit agricultural and industrial production. As a result, the country relies heavily on imports for food and essential goods. This reliance increases costs, especially when global supply chain disruptions occur.
Locally produced food, such as dairy and lamb, can be costly due to the high costs of farming in Iceland’s challenging environment. The need for imports means Icelandic consumers pay premium prices for even basic necessities.
Iceland is undoubtedly an expensive place to live and visit, but understanding the reasons behind these high costs can help you plan better and make more informed decisions.
How to Save Money When Visiting Iceland
Yes, Iceland can be an expensive destination, but there are plenty of ways to keep the cost of your trip under control. After living in Iceland since 2016 and traveling extensively around the country, these are some of the easiest ways I recommend saving money without sacrificing the experience.
1. Book Your Rental Car Early
A rental car will likely be one of the bigger expenses of your Iceland trip, especially if you’re visiting during the busy summer months. Booking early gives you a better selection of vehicles and can help you avoid higher prices as availability becomes limited.
You also don’t necessarily need the biggest or most expensive vehicle. The right rental car depends on when you’re visiting, where you’re going, and whether your itinerary includes F-roads.
If you’re trying to figure out what to book, check out my free ultimate Iceland car rental guide, where I cover rental cars, insurance, driving in Iceland, choosing the right vehicle, and ways to save.
And don’t forget to use my discount link to save 7% on your rental and get 4G WiFi included for free. Even a small percentage off a week-long rental can make a noticeable difference.
2. Buy Groceries Instead of Eating Every Meal Out
Eating at restaurants in Iceland can add up very quickly, especially if you’re buying breakfast, lunch, dinner, drinks, and snacks every day.
You don’t have to skip Icelandic restaurants altogether. Instead, mix restaurant meals with groceries and simple meals you can make yourself.
Bónus and Krónan are two popular supermarkets where you can stock up on breakfast foods, snacks, sandwiches, and other basics. Be especially careful about buying groceries and snacks at convenience stores and gas stations, where prices can be considerably higher.
Even replacing one restaurant meal per day with something from the grocery store can potentially save hundreds of dollars over a week-long trip.
3. Take Advantage of Iceland’s Free Attractions
One of the best things about traveling around Iceland is that some of the most incredible experiences don’t require an admission ticket.
Waterfalls, black sand beaches, hiking trails, scenic viewpoints, geothermal areas, and countless other natural attractions can be completely free to visit. You have to pay for parking at some popular locations, but that’s still very different from paying admission for every attraction you visit.
Building your itinerary around a mixture of free natural attractions and a few paid experiences you really care about is a great way to keep your budget under control.
4. Plan Your Driving Route Carefully
This one is easy to overlook. Iceland looks small on a map, but the distances between places can be much greater than people expect. Poor itinerary planning can mean unnecessary backtracking, extra fuel costs, and hours spent driving roads you’ve already traveled.
Fuel is already expensive in Iceland, so an efficient itinerary can save both money and precious vacation time.
Before you book accommodations, map out the places you actually want to visit and look at how they fit together geographically. This is especially important if you’re considering driving the Ring Road.
Also remember to account for Iceland’s road-use charges when calculating the cost of your rental car trip. You can read my guide to Iceland’s 2026 road tax for more information on how it works and what travelers should expect.
5. Choose Your Accommodations Strategically
It can be tempting to choose accommodations based entirely on the cheapest nightly rate, but location matters.
Saving a little money on a hotel or guesthouse isn’t necessarily a bargain if it requires you to drive an extra hour in each direction.
I recommend planning the route first and then choosing accommodations that naturally move you toward the next day’s activities. You’ll spend less time backtracking, use less fuel, and have more time to actually enjoy Iceland.
This is also where having a realistic itinerary makes a huge difference. Trying to squeeze too much into each day can cost you more money and make your trip unnecessarily exhausting.
Want to Save Even More on Your Iceland Trip?
I’ve put together a free Iceland Discount Code Bundle with discounts you can use on rental cars, camper vans, activities, accommodations, and more.
Grab the bundle before you start booking your trip so you can see where you might be able to save.
→ Get My Free Iceland Discount Code Bundle 
Icelandic Word of the Article
Dýr (pronounced similar to “deer” in English) – expensive
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7 Reasons Iceland is Expensive & How to Make Your Trip More Affordable

Whether you’re planning your first trip to Iceland or you’ve visited before, knowing the do’s and don’ts can make your experience smoother and more enjoyable. Iceland is a breathtaking country with unique cultural norms, unpredictable weather, and natural wonders that demand respect and preparation. 
I’ll walk you through essential travel tips—things you should absolutely do to get the most out of your visit, as well as common mistakes to avoid. From driving safely on Iceland’s rugged roads to experiencing the hot springs like a local, these insights will help you navigate your adventure like a pro. Let’s dive into the essential do’s and don’ts for traveling in Iceland!
5 Do’s & Don’ts When Visiting Iceland
1. Do go to local pools, lagoons and upscale spas.
  
Iceland’s bathing culture is such a big part of life here and it’s lovely to relax in a geothermally warmed hot tub. Most people think that when I say local pool that I mean some run of the mill uninteresting place but in Iceland, the local pools are lovely and budget friendly.

For instance, the biggest one in Laugardalslaug has several hot tubs, including a saltwater one, an Olympic sized lap pool, a wading pool, a gigantic slide for kids of all ages (meaning adults too), a steam room, sauna, a cold dipping pool and lovely changing area. All of that is accessible at the cost of 1.389 ISK or $9.81 for adults, $1.41 for young adults aged 16-17 and free for children up to the age of 15. Every local pool has its own charm and there is almost 2 dozen just in the Reykjavík capital area and many around the whole country.
Places like the Blue Lagoon, Sky Lagoon and other well known places to take a dip will cost a lot more. For instance, the Blue Lagoon is 9.900 ISK or about $70 for the lowest admission price for one adult. These places are extremely unique and I have enjoyed many visits to all of the lagoons and new baths around the country, so I don’t discourage going, but just know that you have local options too that are great.

Don’t go into a pool, lagoon, or hot tub in Iceland without showering first
One of the most important etiquette rules in Iceland is showering thoroughly, without a swimsuit, before entering a pool, lagoon, or hot tub. Iceland’s geothermal pools and hot springs are an essential part of the culture, and maintaining their cleanliness is taken very seriously.
Due to the country’s limited use of chlorine in pools, washing with soap beforehand helps keep the water hygienic for everyone. Most public swimming areas have strict signage explaining the showering protocol, and some even have attendants ensuring compliance.
Skipping this step is considered disrespectful to locals, and you might be asked to leave. Icelanders grow up with this rule, so while it might feel unfamiliar to visitors, it is essential for keeping the pools enjoyable for all.
2. Do Travel to different parts of the country when you visit
  
Iceland is much more than Reykjavik and the Golden Circle. While the capital offers vibrant culture, history, and nightlife, venturing beyond reveals breathtaking landscapes, unique geological formations, and local experiences that make a trip unforgettable. 
The South Coast is home to stunning waterfalls like Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, black sand beaches, and the Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon. The Westfjords, a lesser-visited gem, offers dramatic fjords, bird cliffs, and remote hot springs. The North, particularly Akureyri and Mývatn, provides volcanic landscapes, geothermal baths, and excellent whale watching. 
The Eastfjords offer charming fishing villages and rugged mountains, while the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is often called “Iceland in Miniature” due to its diverse natural beauty. Expanding your itinerary ensures you experience the true essence of Iceland.
Don’t Only stay in Reykjavik
While Reykjavik is a fantastic city with a lively atmosphere, it should not be the sole focus of your trip, especially if you’re staying for more than three days. Iceland’s main allure is its untouched nature, and the best way to experience it is by exploring different regions. 
Spending all your time in the capital means missing out on towering waterfalls, lava fields, glaciers, geothermal hot springs, and the charming coastal villages that define the Icelandic experience. Even a short trip outside the city, such as the Golden Circle or South Coast, will showcase Iceland’s dramatic landscapes. 
If you have a week or more, consider driving the Ring Road or visiting the Westfjords for an off-the-beaten-path adventure. Diversifying your trip will leave you with richer memories and a deeper appreciation for Iceland’s raw beauty.
3. Do Experience the Majestic Nature in Iceland
  
Iceland is a haven for nature lovers, with vast landscapes that are free to explore. You can hike to breathtaking waterfalls, walk along black sand beaches, or marvel at volcanic craters without spending a dime. 
However, some activities require professional guidance for safety and conservation reasons. Glacier hiking, ice cave tours, and highland trekking should always be done with an experienced guide. These adventures take you deep into Iceland’s rugged wilderness and offer insights into its unique geology and history. 
Horseback riding on Icelandic horses is another must-do experience, offering a connection to the country’s Viking heritage. Whether you’re on a budget or seeking an adrenaline-filled excursion, Iceland provides an incredible mix of free and guided experiences that make your visit truly special.
Don’t Come to Iceland Without a Budget in Mind
Iceland is known for being an expensive destination, so proper budgeting is essential to avoid financial surprises. Accommodation costs range from budget-friendly hostels and guesthouses to luxury hotels. Car rentals, while often necessary for exploring, can be pricey, especially with insurance and fuel costs. Dining out is also expensive, with even casual meals adding up. 
To save money, consider grocery shopping and cooking some meals, opting for budget accommodations, and prioritizing free outdoor activities. Guided tours and adventure excursions can be costly, so research and book in advance to find the best deals. Setting a realistic budget ensures you can enjoy Iceland’s beauty without unnecessary stress.

						30 Budget Saving Tips for Iceland: Travel Smart and Spend Less					
						If you are not sure how to get the most bang for your buck in Iceland, I have something that will help you out. I’m hosting a free live webinar and you won’t want to miss it! This webinar is packed with practical, money-saving strategies to help you explore Iceland without spending a fortune.

						Click Here to Register					
4. Do Drive Yourself Around Iceland
  
Driving in Iceland offers an unparalleled sense of freedom and adventure. With well-maintained roads, stunning scenery, and minimal traffic outside major tourist spots, self-driving is an excellent way to explore the country at your own pace. 
Renting a car allows flexibility to stop at hidden gems and take detours when something catches your eye. However, driving in Iceland requires preparation. Winter driving can be challenging, especially from mid-December to early March, when roads can be icy, and storms are common. 
If traveling in winter, stick to the South Coast, West Iceland, and Reykjavik, where roads are more frequently maintained. During other seasons, the Ring Road and more remote areas become accessible, providing breathtaking landscapes that make the journey as rewarding as the destination.
Don’t Speed
Speeding in Iceland is not only dangerous but also strictly enforced with frequent speed cameras and hefty fines. Many roads are narrow, winding, and often covered in loose gravel, making high speeds risky. Wildlife, such as sheep, frequently wander onto roads, adding another hazard. 
Driving conditions can change rapidly due to sudden weather shifts, so sticking to speed limits ensures safety for yourself and others. Additionally, respecting speed limits helps preserve Iceland’s delicate environment. Take your time, enjoy the stunning views, and drive responsibly to make the most of your Icelandic road trip.
5. Do Check the weather & road conditions before you head out
  
Iceland’s weather is famously unpredictable, and conditions can shift rapidly, especially in winter. Before setting out, always check the Icelandic Meteorological Office (vedur.is) for weather updates and road.is for road conditions. High winds, snowstorms, and heavy rain can create hazardous driving conditions, particularly in the highlands and remote areas. 
Even in summer, fog and sudden rain can impact visibility. Planning ahead and being aware of conditions ensures a safer and more enjoyable trip. Packing appropriate clothing and gear based on the forecast is equally important, as temperatures can vary significantly throughout the day.
Don’t Ignore the Storm Warnings & Road Closures
Ignoring weather warnings and road closures can be extremely dangerous in Iceland. The country experiences powerful storms, sudden snowfalls, and high winds that can make driving treacherous or even impossible. Road closures are put in place for safety, and attempting to bypass them can result in getting stuck or even requiring costly rescue operations. 
Many travelers underestimate Iceland’s extreme weather, but locals take it seriously for a reason. If a storm warning is issued, adjust your plans accordingly and wait until conditions improve. Safety should always come first when exploring Iceland’s wild landscapes.
Reminder: Get 30 Budget Saving Tips for Iceland in my Free Live Webinar
My free live webinar is packed with practical, money-saving strategies to help you explore Iceland without spending a fortune. If you can’t make it live, don’t worry—you’ll still get access to the recording. But for those who do attend live, I have a very special bonus that will definitely come in handy for getting the most bang for your buck in Iceland. Don’t miss out!
Random Fact of the Episode
Speaking of weather warnings. It’s only the beginning of February and we have already had two major storms. The last one earlier this week was a red warning for most of the country. There were wind gusts expected at up to 70 miles per hour.
Authorities advised against people even traveling to work in the city, so you know that travel in the countryside was absolutely not happening. There is widespread damage to some homes and building  because of the storm. There were also some power outages in remote areas. Thankfully, no one was seriously injured because people heeded the warning and stayed in their homes.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Ekki – don’t
Ekki gera það – don´t do that
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5 Essential Do’s and Don’ts to Know When Visiting Iceland

In this captivating episode, I sat down with Christian Legère, the visionary behind Emerald Skies of Iceland, to delve into the mesmerizing world of the Northern Lights. As a seasoned expert, Christian has dedicated his career to guiding enthusiasts and travelers through the ethereal dance of the aurora borealis across Iceland’s night skies.


 Northern Lights photo by Christian Legère
More about Christian Legère
Christian’s journey began with a profound fascination for the natural wonders of the Arctic. This passion led him to establish Emerald Skies, a platform that offers real-time Northern Lights forecasts, comprehensive aurora activity information, and invaluable insights for both novice observers and seasoned chasers. His commitment is to demystify the aurora borealis, making it accessible to all who venture to witness its beauty.
Throughout our discussion, Christian shares his extensive knowledge on the optimal times and locations to experience the Northern Lights in Iceland. He emphasizes the importance of understanding solar activity, weather patterns, and the significance of minimal light pollution. Listeners will gain practical tips on how to enhance their aurora viewing experience, whether embarking on a guided tour or setting out independently.
A highlight of the conversation is Christian’s explanation of the tools and resources available on the Emerald Skies website. From detailed solar wind data to magnetometer readings, he illustrates how these instruments can predict aurora activity, ensuring that observers are well-prepared to catch a glimpse of this celestial phenomenon.
Moreover, Christian addresses common misconceptions about the Northern Lights and provides guidance on capturing the perfect aurora photograph. His insights are not only informative but also inspire a deeper appreciation for the natural wonders that Iceland offers.
Questions I Asked Christian Legere During the Interview


 Northern Lights photo by Christian Legère

Where are you from and what brough you to Iceland?
When did your fascination with the Northern Lights begin?
There are so many different apps & websites to check out the Northern Lights forecast, what should people look for to get an accurate as possible prediction?
What makes your website Emerald Skies unique?
Tips you have for people who want to see the Northern Lights on their own.
How should people manage their expectations when it comes to seeing the Northern Lights?
What are some spots you recommend people go to and potentially see the Northern Lights?
What are your favorite Northern Lights sightings?
What is your favorite Icelandic word or phrase?

Contact Christian about the Northern Lights
The best way to contact Christian about the northern lights is via his website Emerald Skies of Iceland.
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Expert Advice on How to Hunt the Northern Lights in Iceland

Reykjavík has a reputation for being an expensive city. Whether you’re planning your first trip to Iceland or you’re a return visitor, this episode will highlight 15 fantastic activities you can enjoy at no cost while soaking up the unique atmosphere of the city.
I’ve crafted this list with both locals and travelers in mind, ensuring you get a taste of Reykjavík’s history, culture, and natural beauty without spending a single krona. If you’re someone who loves walking, taking photos, or simply enjoying the simple pleasures of travel, this episode is perfect for you.
1. Admire the Street Art
  
Reykjavík’s streets are alive with color and creativity, thanks to the city’s vibrant street art scene. Murals, graffiti, and sculptures can be found on walls, buildings, and even sidewalks throughout the city. Many works are commissioned by local businesses or created during festivals like the Reykjavík Art Festival, showcasing the talents of both Icelandic and international artists. 
These artworks often tell stories about Icelandic culture, folklore, or social issues, adding a layer of depth to your exploration. Walking through areas like Laugavegur, Hlemmur, and Grandi, you’ll discover a mix of playful, thought-provoking, and visually stunning pieces.
The ever-changing nature of street art ensures that no two visits to Reykjavík will be the same. Whether you’re a fan of contemporary art or simply enjoy stumbling upon surprises, the city’s street art is sure to leave an impression.
2.	 Visit Hallgrímskirkja Church
  
Hallgrímskirkja is one of Reykjavík’s most recognizable landmarks, drawing visitors from all over the world. This towering church, named after the Icelandic poet and clergyman Hallgrímur Pétursson, is an architectural marvel designed to resemble Iceland’s basalt lava flows. The striking exterior is a tribute to the country’s unique natural landscapes, and it stands as a symbol of Reykjavík’s skyline. 
While the tower requires a fee to access its panoramic views, entering the main hall is free of charge. Inside, the church’s simplicity and minimalist design create a serene and spiritual atmosphere. The massive pipe organ, built by Johannes Klais of Bonn, is a highlight of the interior.
Visitors are often treated to organ recitals that fill the space with mesmerizing sounds. Outside the church, don’t miss the statue of Leif Erikson, a gift from the United States commemorating the Norse explorer’s discovery of North America. Whether you’re a history buff, an architecture enthusiast, or just looking for a peaceful spot, Hallgrímskirkja is a must-visit destination.
3.	Explore the Free Sculpture Garden at the Einar Jónsson Museum
  
The Einar Jónsson Sculpture Garden, located near Hallgrímskirkja, is a hidden gem that art lovers won’t want to miss. This open-air garden features a collection of works by Einar Jónsson, Iceland’s first sculptor, whose art is deeply influenced by Icelandic folklore, mythology, and spirituality. 
The sculptures, crafted in bronze and stone, range from dramatic and thought-provoking to serene and whimsical. As you wander through the garden, you’ll gain insight into Iceland’s cultural heritage and the artist’s unique perspective. The peaceful setting, combined with the stunning views of the city, makes this garden a perfect spot for reflection and inspiration. 
Best of all, access to the garden is completely free, allowing visitors to enjoy world-class art without spending a penny. The Einar Jónsson Sculpture Garden is a testament to Reykjavík’s vibrant art scene and its commitment to making culture accessible to all.
4.	 Take a photo at the Sun Voyager
  
The Sun Voyager, or Sólfarið, is a striking steel sculpture located along Reykjavík’s scenic waterfront. Designed by artist Jón Gunnar Árnason, it symbolizes exploration, progress, and the eternal hope of discovering new horizons.
The sculpture, resembling a Viking ship, is often mistakenly thought to be a historical representation, but it is actually a modern work of art. Its sleek design contrasts beautifully with the backdrop of Mount Esja and Faxaflói Bay. Visiting the Sun Voyager is not only an opportunity to take stunning photos but also a chance to reflect on Iceland’s seafaring heritage and its deep connection to nature.
Sunset and sunrise are particularly magical times to visit, as the soft light enhances the sculpture’s contours and creates a dreamlike ambiance. A visit here is a moment of serenity amid the city’s bustling pace.

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5.	 Walk along Laugavegur Street
  
Reykjavík’s main shopping street, Laugavegur, is a vibrant hub of activity and culture. This historic street has evolved over the years from being a practical path for travelers to one of the city’s most iconic and colorful areas. Laugavegur is lined with charming boutiques, cozy cafes, and eye-catching street art that reflects the city’s creative spirit. 
Walking along the street is like exploring a gallery under the open sky, where murals and graffiti tell stories of Icelandic culture, history, and contemporary life. Visitors can also enjoy window shopping or stepping into quirky stores that sell everything from handmade Icelandic wool sweaters to unique souvenirs. 
The lively atmosphere, combined with the picturesque backdrop of colorful houses, makes it an ideal spot for leisurely strolling, people-watching, and photography. In summer, the street often comes alive with outdoor music performances, while in winter, festive lights add a magical touch. Even without spending a penny, Laugavegur offers an enriching experience that captures the essence of Reykjavík.
6. Explore Harpa Concert Hall
  
Harpa Concert Hall, situated by Reykjavík’s old harbor, is a stunning example of modern Icelandic architecture. Its glass facade, designed by Danish-Icelandic artist Ólafur Elíasson, is inspired by basalt columns and reflects the dynamic interplay of light and color. 
The building’s exterior is as captivating during the day as it is at night, when the glass panels light up in a mesmerizing display. Inside, Harpa offers a spacious and welcoming environment, with areas open to the public for free exploration. You can marvel at the intricate design details, take in the harbor views through the expansive windows, or simply relax in its tranquil atmosphere. 
Occasionally, free events such as art exhibits, film screenings, or live music performances are hosted in the open areas. Even without attending a concert, Harpa provides a unique opportunity to experience Iceland’s thriving cultural scene and appreciate its innovative approach to architecture.
7.	 Stroll around Tjörnin Pond
  
Tjörnin, often referred to as “The Pond,” is a tranquil oasis in the heart of Reykjavík. Surrounded by colorful houses and lush greenery, this serene spot is perfect for a leisurely stroll or a quiet moment of reflection. 
The pond is home to an array of bird species, including ducks, swans, and geese, making it a favorite destination for birdwatchers and families. In winter, the pond often freezes over, transforming into an ice-skating rink for locals and visitors alike. 
During warmer months, it becomes a vibrant gathering place, with people enjoying picnics, yoga, or simply soaking up the sun. Nearby, you’ll find Hljómskálagarður Park and Reykjavík City Hall, both worth exploring. Tjörnin is more than just a body of water—it’s a beloved part of Reykjavík’s community and a picturesque spot to unwind.
8.	 Visit Reykjavík City Hall
  
Located on the edge of Tjörnin Pond, Reykjavík City Hall is an architectural gem that combines functionality with beauty. The building’s modern design seamlessly integrates with its natural surroundings, featuring large windows that offer stunning views of the pond. 
Inside, you’ll find a variety of exhibits and displays that provide insight into Iceland’s culture and history. One of the main attractions is the 3D map of Iceland, a detailed and interactive representation of the country’s diverse landscapes. The building also hosts art installations, photography exhibits, and public events, many of which are free to attend. 
Beyond its cultural offerings, City Hall is a great place to relax and enjoy a cup of coffee while taking in the views. It’s a peaceful retreat that combines learning with leisure, making it a worthwhile stop on your Reykjavík itinerary.
9.	Relax in Hljómskálagarður Park
  
Hljómskálagarður Park is a tranquil green space situated near Tjörnin Pond, making it an ideal spot to unwind and enjoy Reykjavík’s natural beauty. This park is perfect for picnics, leisurely walks, or simply lying on the grass and soaking in the serene surroundings.
The park is home to several sculptures, including the statue of Iceland’s famous poet Tómas Guðmundsson, which adds a cultural touch to your visit. During summer, the park becomes a lively hub for locals and tourists alike, hosting events, outdoor yoga sessions, and music performances.
In autumn, the trees display vibrant hues, creating a picturesque setting for a relaxing afternoon. The park’s proximity to the city center makes it a convenient escape from the urban bustle. Whether you’re looking to enjoy a quiet moment in nature or explore its artistic elements, Hljómskálagarður Park offers a peaceful retreat in the heart of Reykjavík.
10.	Enjoy Austurvöllur Square
  
Austurvöllur Square is a vibrant public space located in the heart of Reykjavík, surrounded by historic buildings, cafes, and restaurants. This square is a favorite gathering spot for locals, especially during sunny days when the grass is filled with people relaxing, picnicking, or catching up with friends. 
At the center of the square stands a statue of Jón Sigurðsson, a prominent figure in Iceland’s struggle for independence. The square’s historical significance and lively atmosphere make it an essential stop for visitors. In summer, the square often hosts cultural events, markets, and live music performances, adding to its charm. 
During winter, festive lights and decorations transform it into a cozy and inviting space. Whether you’re looking to people-watch, enjoy a coffee from a nearby cafe, or simply take in the surroundings, Austurvöllur Square is a delightful spot to experience Reykjavík’s community spirit.
11.	Check out the old harbor area
  
Reykjavík’s old harbor is a charming and picturesque area that offers a glimpse into the city’s maritime heritage. The harbor is lined with colorful buildings, fishing boats, and modern vessels, creating a lively and photogenic setting. 
It’s a great place to take a leisurely walk, breathe in the fresh sea air, and watch the comings and goings of the boats. The area is also home to a variety of attractions, including the Maritime Museum and the Whales of Iceland exhibition, though these require an entry fee. For those on a budget, simply wandering around the harbor and enjoying the views is a delightful experience. 
The nearby Grandi district is also worth exploring, with its mix of old industrial buildings and trendy cafes, restaurants, and art spaces. The old harbor is a perfect blend of history, culture, and natural beauty.
12.	Visit Nauthólsvík Geothermal Beach
Nauthólsvík Geothermal Beach is a unique attraction in Reykjavík, offering a mix of natural beauty and geothermal warmth. The beach features golden sand and a man-made lagoon heated by geothermal water, creating a comfortable spot for swimming even in cooler months. 
While the hot tubs and changing facilities may require a small fee, access to the beach itself is free. The beach is a popular spot for locals who enjoy cold-water swimming, a traditional Icelandic pastime believed to have health benefits. Visitors can also relax on the sand, take a dip in the sea, or enjoy a scenic walk along the coastal paths. The surrounding area is ideal for picnics or simply taking in the stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean. 
Nauthólsvík is a testament to Iceland’s innovative use of geothermal energy and its commitment to creating spaces where people can connect with nature. Whether you’re seeking relaxation or a bit of adventure, this geothermal beach offers a unique experience in Reykjavík.
13.	Walk Öskjuhlíð Hill
  
Öskjuhlíð Hill is a forested area in Reykjavík that offers a refreshing escape into nature. Located near Perlan, a popular museum and observation deck, the hill features winding trails that are perfect for walking, jogging, or cycling. 
As you make your way through the trees, you’ll come across hidden gems like old bunkers from World War II and scenic viewpoints that offer stunning vistas of the city and surrounding mountains. The area is especially popular in autumn, when the leaves turn vibrant shades of red and gold, creating a picturesque setting. 
At the top of the hill, you’ll find Perlan’s iconic glass dome, which you can admire from the outside for free. The combination of natural beauty and historical intrigue makes Öskjuhlíð Hill a unique and rewarding destination for outdoor enthusiasts.
14.	Wander through Laugardalur Valley & Botanic Garden
  
Laugardalur Valley, often referred to as Reykjavík’s “Valley of Leisure,” is a recreational haven that offers a variety of activities and attractions. One of its highlights is the Reykjavík Botanic Garden, a peaceful retreat showcasing a diverse collection of native and international plants. 
Strolling through the garden’s well-maintained paths, you’ll encounter vibrant flower beds, tranquil ponds, and informative displays about Iceland’s unique flora. The garden is also home to a small cafe, where you can enjoy a cup of coffee surrounded by nature. Beyond the garden, Laugardalur features open spaces for picnics, playgrounds for children, and scenic walking trails. 
The area is also home to the Laugardalslaug swimming pool, though access to the pool requires a fee. Whether you’re a nature enthusiast or simply looking for a quiet escape, Laugardalur Valley offers a refreshing break from the city’s hustle and bustle.
15.	Visit the Grótta Lighthouse
  
Located on the western edge of Reykjavík, Grótta Lighthouse is a serene and scenic destination that offers breathtaking views of the ocean and surrounding landscapes. The lighthouse is situated on a small peninsula that becomes an island during high tide, adding an element of adventure to your visit. 
The area is popular among locals for walking, birdwatching, and enjoying the tranquility of nature. On clear nights, it’s one of the best spots in Reykjavík to view the northern lights, making it a must-visit destination in winter. Sunset is another magical time to visit, as the sky transforms into a palette of warm colors. 
The journey to Grótta is just as enjoyable as the destination, with a coastal path that offers stunning views and fresh sea air. It’s a peaceful retreat that feels worlds away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Random Fact of the Episode
Menningarnótt or culture night in Reykjavík is usually the last Saturday in August. All the museums in Reykjavík are free to explore. There are also free events happening all over the city that day, like lots of musical performances, exhibitions, free classes such as yoga or dance. There is a huge concert in the evening and the night concludes with fireworks.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Ókeypis – free
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15 Free Things to Do in Reykjavík, Iceland

Today, I’ve diving into one of the most essential topics for anyone planning a trip to the Land of Fire and Ice—‘10 Things You Need to Know Before Visiting Iceland.’
From navigating Iceland’s famously unpredictable weather to understanding why tap water here is better than bottled, I’ll cover everything to help you avoid common pitfalls and fully embrace the magic of this incredible country.
Plus, I’ll share a few fun cultural quirks you’ll encounter along the way—like why Icelanders are so passionate about their local swimming pools.

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1. Weather in Iceland is Unpredictable
Iceland is known for having “four seasons in one day.” You might experience sunshine, rain, wind, and even snow within a single afternoon. Strong winds are common, especially in coastal areas, and can make conditions feel much colder.
Always carry a waterproof jacket, sturdy boots, and gloves, even in summer. In winter, icy roads and storms may disrupt travel plans, so keep an eye on weather forecasts using vedur.is and plan flexibility into your itinerary.
2. Iceland is Expensive
Expect higher prices for everything, from meals at restaurants to basic groceries and fuel. Dining out can cost upwards of $30–$50 per person for a simple meal, so consider cooking your own food. Budget supermarkets like Bónus, Krónan, and Nettó are great for stocking up on supplies.
Many travelers also save by bringing snacks or dry foods from home. Accommodation, especially in remote areas, can be limited and pricey, so plan ahead to avoid overspending.
3. Driving Can be Challenging
Driving in Iceland gives you freedom, but it’s not always easy. Gravel roads, sudden fog, and one-lane bridges require caution. F-Roads (highland mountain roads) require 4×4 vehicles and are open only in summer.
Additionally, Icelandic sheep roam freely and might cross the road unexpectedly! Use road.is for live updates on road conditions, closures, and weather warnings. Check safetravel.is for advice on traveling safely in Iceland.
Check out my Ultimate Guide to Renting a Car in Iceland.
How to Save Money on renting a Car in Iceland
Before we get into the next one, I want to give a shout-out to our amazing sponsors, Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers.
I use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.
They’ve also given me a link so you can save 7% on your rental, plus get a couple of really useful extras.
With Go Car Rental, you’ll save 7% and get free 4G WiFi with your rental.
With Go Campers, you’ll save 7% and get a free sleeping bag included.
You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsicelandfor the discounts.
Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.
For Go Car:When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added.
For Go Campers:Choose a sleeping bag under the “Sleeping” section, and same thing, the total price won’t increase.
And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.
4.  Cards Are King But Cash Can Be Used
Iceland is one of the most cashless countries in the world. Credit and debit cards are accepted everywhere, including small towns, food trucks, and parking meters. A PIN is often required for transactions, so make sure your card has one. If you do want cash, ATMs are available, but you likely won’t need it unless you prefer tipping in cash (though tipping isn’t expected in Iceland).
5. Respect Nature
Iceland’s breathtaking landscapes are its biggest draw, but they’re also fragile. Stepping off marked paths damages moss and plants that can take decades to recover.
Hot springs and volcanic areas may look inviting but can be dangerous, with scalding water or unstable ground. Always follow signs, listen to local advice, and avoid littering. Stay safe while respecting Iceland’s pristine environment.
6. Plan for Daylight Extremes
Iceland’s location near the Arctic Circle means daylight varies dramatically throughout the year. From May to August, the Midnight Sun provides nearly 24 hours of daylight, ideal for late-night hikes or photography.
In contrast, from November to January, daylight may last as little as 4 hours. This impacts your ability to explore, so plan key activities during daylight and pack a headlamp for winter visits.
7. Icelandic Tap Water is the Amazing
Iceland’s water is some of the purest in the world, sourced from natural springs and glaciers. You can drink directly from the tap, even in remote areas. Hot water from taps may smell like sulfur due to geothermal activity, but it’s completely safe. Carry a reusable water bottle and refill it as you go to save money and reduce waste.
8. Hot Tubs Are a Way of Life
Geothermal pools are a central part of Icelandic culture, offering relaxation and a chance to socialize. Popular spots like the Blue Lagoon and Sky Lagoon are famous, but you’ll also find local swimming pools and hidden hot springs across the country.
Showering (naked) before entering pools is required to maintain hygiene in the communal water. Don’t miss this quintessential Icelandic experience—it’s perfect for unwinding after a day of exploring.
9. Pack for Outdoor Adventures
Iceland’s rugged terrain and outdoor attractions require proper gear. Comfortable, waterproof hiking boots are essential for exploring waterfalls, glaciers, and lava fields.
A windproof jacket and insulated layers are crucial to stay warm, especially near windy coastlines or during Northern Lights hunting. Sunglasses and sunscreen are also handy due to the intense glare from snow and ice. Always pack a day bag with snacks, water, and extra layers for your excursions.
10. Book in Advance
Iceland has become a top travel destination, and its popularity means many attractions, tours, and accommodations book out quickly, especially during peak travel seasons (summer and December holidays). Car rentals are in high demand year-round, so reserve one early to avoid last-minute price hikes or unavailability.
The same goes for unique experiences like glacier hikes, whale-watching tours, or Northern Lights trips. Planning ahead ensures you get the best options.
Random Fact of the Episode
My first visit was in December of 2013 and that changed my life forever. I honestly never thought that I would get used to the sulfur smell from the hot water or know how to cope with the short winter days. With time all of that became no big deal and I love living here.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Litið til baka – look backwards or hindsight
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10 Things I Wish I Knew Before Visiting Iceland for the First Time

Icelanders have gained a reputation for being laid-back, and welcoming, making their country one of the most delightful places to visit. However, like any culture, Iceland has its own unique customs and traditions that visitors might unknowingly overlook.
While Icelanders are forgiving, certain faux pas can unintentionally offend them. If you’re planning a trip to this stunning Nordic island, it’s worth familiarizing yourself with these six potential missteps to ensure a respectful and enjoyable experience.
1. Not Taking Off Shoes Before Entering an Icelander’s Home
  
In Iceland, homes are sacred spaces of comfort and cleanliness. One of the simplest ways to show respect when visiting someone’s home is to remove your shoes at the door. Icelanders prioritize cleanliness due to the often wet and muddy conditions outside, so tracking dirt indoors is a definite no-no.
Neglecting to do so can come across as careless and inconsiderate. If you’re invited into an Icelander’s home, look for a spot near the entrance to leave your shoes and step inside as they do—with clean, socked feet.
2. Calling an Icelandic Horse a Pony
  
Icelandic horses are small but mighty—don’t let their size fool you. These resilient and unique animals are deeply ingrained in Icelandic culture, and they’re anything but ponies. Referring to them as such diminishes their significance and can offend locals who take great pride in this distinctive breed. If you’re admiring an Icelandic horse, feel free to compliment its beauty, strength, or unique gait known as the “tölt,” but never, ever call it a pony.
3. Not Offering an Icelander Some Coffee If They Visit You
  
Coffee is more than just a beverage in Iceland; it’s a social ritual. Icelanders love coffee and rarely pass up an opportunity to enjoy a cup, especially when visiting someone’s home. Failing to offer coffee to an Icelander can come across as thoughtless or unwelcoming. Whether it’s a casual drop-in or a planned meeting, have some coffee ready to serve. It’s not just polite—it’s practically a cultural obligation.
4. Not Showering Naked Before Entering a Pool
  
Icelanders are serious about their pools and hot springs, and equally serious about hygiene. Before entering any pool, it’s mandatory to take a thorough, naked shower to ensure cleanliness. Unlike in some other countries, wearing a swimsuit in the shower is seen as unhygienic and can quickly earn disapproval from locals. It might feel awkward to some visitors, but rest assured, no one is paying attention. Embrace the custom—it’s an essential part of Icelandic pool culture.
5. Voicing Your Dislike or Disdain for Licorice
  
Licorice is a beloved treat in Iceland, and it appears in everything from candies to desserts and even ice cream. While you’re entitled to your own tastes, loudly declaring your disdain for licorice might be taken as an insult to the Icelandic palate. To be fair, most Icelanders will laugh if your initial response is that you don’t like it but harping on how bad it tastes to you or saying that you think Icelanders are strange for liking it, won’t go over well. Instead, consider trying a piece and appreciating the locals’ enthusiasm for their favorite flavor. Who knows? You might even develop a fondness for it yourself.
6. Being a Disrespectful Tourist
  
Iceland’s natural beauty is one of its greatest treasures, but it’s also incredibly fragile. From walking on moss-covered landscapes to littering or disregarding safety guidelines, disrespectful behavior can cause lasting damage to the environment and irk locals. Similarly, being disruptive or inconsiderate in public spaces can tarnish your reputation as a visitor. Show your respect by following local rules, leaving no trace, and treating Iceland’s pristine landscapes with care.
Random Fact of the Episode
Some years ago, my former in-laws came for a visit to my apartment for dinner. There was plenty of food and some dessert but my exz and I didn’t have coffee because we don’t drink it. At the time, I had no idea that having coffee to offer was so important. They were shocked and not very happy that we were not aware of this.
Well, the next time we had them over for dinner, I made sure to have coffee. The funny this is that they showed up with coffee too and a french press as a gift. They made sure that they would not miss out on having coffee. I had no idea they were planning to do  that and they had no idea we had prepared coffee for them for the next visit. We all laughed about it and I learned a valuable lesson about the need to have coffee available for Icelanders that visit my home.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
móðga – offend
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How to Avoid Offending Icelanders: A Traveler’s Guide to Local Etiquette

There are two iconic and naturally formed ice caves in Iceland that have taken social media by storm. The pictures and videos have people from all over the world flocking to Iceland during winter to winter their beauty.
Table of Contents:

Save Money on a Katla Ice Cave or Crystal Ice Cave Tour
Best time to see an Ice Cave in Iceland
Temperature inside an Ice Cave
What to wear on an Ice Cave Tour?
Katla Ice Cave – Price, pros & cons
Crystal Ice Cave – Price, pros & cons
Which Ice Cave I prefer

Why are Katla Ice Cave and Crystal Ice Cave Different?
Katla Ice Cave and The Crystal Ice Cave are relatively close to each other (2.5 hour drive apart) but they provide much different experiences. In this episode I will give a little insight about when to see naturally forming ice caves in Iceland (meaning ones that are not man-made).
I will also share the temperature inside of an ice cave, how to dress for an ice cave tour, the pros and cons of each ice cave tour based on my personal experience. I thought it would also be helpful to share the cost as of January 2025  for each along with what will be included, and which one I preferred after taking both tours.
Please know that both are absolutely stunning and worth checking out. Time in the country, daylight hours, the season, and cost play a huge factor for most people so I did my best to take that into account.
How to Save Money on the Katla Ice Cave Tour or Crystal Ice Cave Tour
Before I jump into that, I would like to thank the sponsor of this episode, Arctic Adventures. I partnered with them to recently see these ice caves in two days. So, one ice cave each day because of limited day light hours and it was such a fun experience. You can use my code ALLTHINGSICELAND10 to save 10% with Arctic Adventures on either of these ice cave tours, and use mu code Iceland10 to save 10% on glacier hikes, and northern lights tours with the same company.
If you do use my code, you get a % off and I get a small commission, which allows for me to keep making fun and helpful content like this.
When is the best time to See Naturally Formed Ice Caves in Iceland (Katla Ice Cave & Crystal Ice Cave)?
  
In terms of stability, safety, and stunning colors of the ice caves, winter is the best time to explore naturally formed ice caves. The ice cave season is usually from late November to March.
The time frame can change based on weather conditions for that year. Sometimes we have a cooler or warmer months, so the season might vary slightly from year to year for naturally formed ice caves.
I keep saying naturally formed because there are man-made ice caves here that pretty much keep the same shape and access throughout the year. I did an episode on the largest man-made Ice Tunnel in the world in 2024 called 7 Fascinating Facts I Learned Inside Iceland‘s Langjökull Glacier. Feel free to check that out if you are looking to explore a stable ice cave in a glacier anytime of year. As mentioned before, you can use my code Iceland10 to save 10% with Arctic Adventures for that experience too.
What is the Temperature inside of an Ice Cave?
The temperature inside ice caves typically hovers around 0°C (32°F) and remains relatively constant regardless of external weather conditions. That often shocks people because the expectation is that naturally formed ice caves will be extremely cold but during winter they can often be warmer than outside the cave.
What to wear on an Ice Cave Tour?

Thermal Base Layer: Wear a moisture-wicking base layer made of materials like merino wool or synthetic fabrics to keep you dry and warm.
Insulating Mid-Layer: Add a fleece or insulated jacket to provide additional warmth.
Waterproof Outer Layer: Use a windproof and waterproof jacket and pants to protect against moisture and wind.
Warm Hat and Gloves: Bring a hat that covers your ears and gloves to keep your hands warm.
Water-Resistant Footwear: Choose sturdy, water-resistant boots with good traction to navigate slippery surfaces.

Additional Tips:

Dress in Layers: This allows you to adjust your clothing to maintain comfort throughout the tour.
Safety Gear: Some tour operators provide crampons, helmets, and headlights, so check with your provider for any specific recommendations or equipment they may supply.

The Ultimate Packing Checklist for Iceland
 
 
Be fully prepared for winter in Iceland with my free ultimate packing checklist that has all the essentials you need for winter and summer. There are two separate lists and some non-essentials you can pack, if you have the space.
Katla Ice Cave Tour
Katla Ice Cave Tour is located in Katla Volcano and glacier, which is near the town of Vík in South Iceland. Vík is about a 2 hour and 30 minute drive straight from Reykjavík. Of course that can vary a little due to the weather, especially during winter. If the roads are clear, you can expect to arrive to that small town in that time frame. In order to access Katla Ice Cave, the tour includes a ride in a modified car with gigantic tires and other special aspects so that the car can drive onto the glacier.
The duration of the tour is 3 hours, if you meet at the meetup point in Reykjavik or 11 hours if you are transported from the city.  The drive from the meetup point in Vík to the start of the Katla ice cave tour is about 40 minutes. It is a gorgeous area away from crowds and the landscape covered in snow in incredible to see.
  
Price of the Katla Ice Cave Tour (as of 2025)
The cost for one person for the Katla Ice Cave Tour is $216. This price includes:

A ride in a modified car (called a Super Jeep in Iceland)
An English speaking guide that is certified to provide glacier tours.
A visit to the ice cave, crampons to walk on the ice (which is absolutely needed)
Any safetly equipment needed (like a helmet)

Pros of Going on the Katla Ice Cave Tour

The guides are very informative and engaging.
The ride to the glacier is beautiful because the landscape is breathtaking.
It is a very easy hike and you get two different locations that look so different from each other.
Saw awesome wid life like an Arctic Fox and a raven. Even though both are wild, the guides do bring little snacks for them so that seems to incentivize the arctic fox and raven to come around when there are tours. Hones
Conveniently located near Reykjavík so it can easily be done in a day
Not as many people at the glacier. At least there weren‘t when I went even though there were three vans in the parking area of the glacier entrance. The cool thing is that each group seem to be timed well so that we weren‘t on top of each other in the glacier.
The guide goes above and beyond to take pictures of you in different locations. Mention tipping
You have a lot more natural light flowing in that allows for better pictures.

Cons of Going on the Katla Ice Cave Tour

The ice cave is changing all the time. The look of the ice cave you might have seen on the internet can be different depending on the year you visit. Due to the glacier melting throughout the year and shifting.
The ride can be a little rough. The big tires help with it but it is still bumpy.
You get packed into big modified vans.
The size of the ice cave is small to medium sized. Compared to the next ice cave, I would consider the current cave to be small.

Crystal Ice Cave Tour
The Crystal Ice Cave is located in south east Iceland near Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon. Weather permitting, it is a 5 hour and 6 minute drive from Reykjavík without stops. In order to access the Crystal Ice Cave, you have to ride in a modified van because the road to Breiðamerkurjökull glacier is very rough and can not be done in a normal car. I woudn’t even try it in a regular 4×4 car. The duration of the tour is about 2-3 hours.
  
Price of The Crystal Ice Cave Tour (as of 2025)
The price of the Crystal Ice Cave tour for one person is $156. The price includes:

A ride in a modified car (called a Super Jeep in Iceland)
An English speaking guide that is certified to provide glacier tours.
A visit to the ice cave, crampons to walk on the ice (when needed but it wasn‘t for the cave we went to)
Any safetly equipment needed (like a helmet and light on the helmet)

Pros of Going on the Blue Crystal Ice Cave Tour

Affordable for most people’s budgets
You meet at Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon or Diamond Beach, whichever your ticket says. The lovely part about that is the lagoon and beach are wonderful attractions to check out, so you get to check those out before or after your tour. I suggest being mindful of the daylight hours for your ice cave tour because.
The guide is very friendly, informative, and engaging. He does take pictures of you inside the cave and is offering certain places that would be best to have a nice photo taken.
It is only 20-25 minutes driving from the meetup point at the glacier lagoon to the Blue Crystal ice cave.
The biggest naturally formed ice cave you can currently access in Iceland. It is 100 meters (328 feet). All the guides on the tour that I heard speaking said that this the biggest ice cave they have been. Many of them have been guiding for five years or more.
Inside of the ice cave is huge and insanely gorgeous. If you look just from the outside, you would never know the incredible colors and world of ice that awaits you inside. I was a little skeptical when we first arrived but my mind was quickly changed once we were inside.
Short walk from the parking area to the entrance to the ice cave. However, that can change if they go to a different ice cave that is on Breiðamerkurjökull.

Cons of Going on the Crystal Ice Cave Tour

Lots of people from other tour companies.
There was a line to wait to get into the ice cave. I think we waited 30 minutes outside of the ice cave because of the amount of people. I sort of felt like I was at an amusement park. While I was excited about going into the cave, the wait made me question if it was worth it.
It is called the Crystal Ice Cave tour when you book BUT the guide might use a different name of the ice cave. The reason for this is that as new ice caves open up or appear, guides are coming up with different names. I remember our guide saying that this one might be called Blue Ocean or something along those lines.
You get packed into big modified vans.
Due to it being deeper inside the cave, it can sometimes be a little hard to see and take photos or videos.
If you are tall, be prepared to duck down quite low sometimes due to the varying heights in the ice cave. Not a big deal but something to keep in mind. Having a helmet definitely keep me from hurting my head a few times.

Which Ice Cave do I prefer? – Katla Ice Cave Tour vs Crystal Ice Cave Tour
  
I thought long and hard about which one I prefer because I honestly enjoyed both of them so much. If seeing both fits in your budget and time while traveling in Iceland, I say go for it. Based on what I experienced this time around in November, Katla Ice Cave edged out Crystal Ice Cave.
Here are my reasons that tipped Katla Ice Cave over as the winner:

The landscape on the way to the glacier was so gorgeous.
The two spots the guide takes you to are different and yet totally worth it. The first spot has a cool
Because there is a lot of natural light due to not being deep in an ice cave, it is much easier to navigate and take pictures.
See an Arctic Fox and raven was so much fun! We all kept a safe distance but it is not an everyday occurrence that you see these creatures in Iceland because they normally avoid human interaction.
Because it is only a 2.5 hour drive from Reykjavík, it can easily be a day trip if you are based in the city or an activity you do if you plan to stay out in the countryside.

As I mentioned, I truly enjoyed both ice cave tours and would do both again in a heartbeat, but I this is my honest opinion. Before I move onto the random fact of the episode, I want to thank Arctic Adventures again for this partnership and for them being open to me doing an ice cave tour showdown. To save 10% on each ice cave tour on their website, use my code ALLTHINGSICELAND10.
Random Fact of the Episode
Breiðamerkurjökull glacier is the name of the glacier where the crystal ice cave is located. While the location of the cave can vary on the glacier, the biggest ice cave that I was talking about in this episode is not technically on the glacier because it is in something called dead ice.
As a glacier recedes, it might leave behind big chunks of ice. In this case, those chunks of ice where along a mountain ridge and covered in gravel and ash from previous eruptions. The gravel and ash kept the ice from melting away during summer and warmer days. A huge mass of ice is considered a glacier if it is continuously accummulating over time from compacted snow and is slowly moving downhill due to its own weight and gravity. Dead ice is not moving downhill and is no longer connected to the glacier that it originally was formed with.
There are ice caves being found on actual Breiðamerkujökull but the one I visited this time was in dead ice. The name of the ice might not sound appealing but ice cave is otherworldly when it comes to beauty and scale.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Breiðamerkurjökull – wide, woodland glacier
I hope the breakdown of the Katla and Crystal ice cave tour has been helpful. 
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Katla Ice Cave vs Crystal Ice Cave – Which is Better?

Two married women argued about which of their husbands was the bigger fool. Finally, they decided to test their husbands to see if they were as foolish as they seemed.

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The First Wife sets up the Trick for her Husband
One woman played a trick on her husband. When he came home from work, she took a spinning wheel and carders, sat down, and started to card and spin, even though there was no wool in her hands. Her husband noticed this and asked if she was crazy to scrape the teasels together and spin the wheel without any wool. 
He asked her to explain what she was doing. She said that it was no surprise that he couldn’t see what she was doing because she was making a very fine linen that was too thin to be seen with the eye. She told him she was going to make him clothes from this invisible linen.
Her husband thought this was a brilliant explanation. He was amazed by his wife’s cleverness and looked forward to the joy and pride he would feel when he wore these amazing clothes.When his wife had spun enough “wool” for the clothes, she set up the loom and wove the invisible fabric.
Her husband visited her from time to time, marveling at her skill. She was amused and quickly finished the trick. She took the invisible cloth off the loom, washed and dried it, and then sat down to cut and sew the clothes.
The Most Invisible Clothes in the World
When she finished, she told her husband to come and try on the clothes. However, she didn’t let him put them on alone. She pretended to help him dress, but in reality, he was completely naked. He was so sure that his wife had made him these wonderful invisible clothes that he didn’t realize he was actually naked. He was so happy with his “new clothes” that he couldn’t stop jumping around with joy.
The Other Wife’s Trick:
When her husband returned home from work, his wife asked him why he was walking around looking so upset. Startled, he asked her why she would even think that. She insisted he looked upset and told him he was very ill and should go to bed immediately. He believed her and went to bed.
After a while, his wife told him she was going to perform the last rites for him. He begged her not to, but she insisted, saying, “Why are you acting like a fool? Don’t you know you died this morning? I’m going to have them make your coffin right now.” The poor man, believing this to be true, stayed in bed until the coffin was ready.
A Fake Funeral Interrupted
His wife hired six men to carry the coffin and invited the other couple to attend the funeral. She even had a window cut into the side of the coffin so her husband could watch what was happening.
The friend and neighbor  of the supposedly deceased, who had on invisible clothes for the funeral, expected everyone to admire his “delicate clothes” (which were actually his naked body) as he arrived. Instead, the coffin-bearers, though sad, couldn’t help but laugh at the sight of him completely naked. When he saw them laughing, he cried out, “I would be laughing too if I wasn’t dead!”
The funeral was canceled, and they took him out of the coffin.
The consequences:
It was eventually discovered that both wives had tricked their husbands. As punishment, they were publicly whipped in the parish court.
Random Fact of the Episode
I did a hilarious prank on TikTok a few years ago for April Fools Day that was harmless but worked pretty well. I said that the Icelandic government decided to make English an official language. Surprisingly, even some Icelanders thought it was true and were shocked to hear the news until they realized that I was joking.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Hrekkur – prank
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The Ultimate Betrayal: How Two Icelandic Wives Humiliated Their Husbands & Faced Consequences

A long time ago, a bishop was traveling, visiting different areas he was designated in Iceland as part of his duties. As was common back then, he had a group of servants with him, including a maid whose job was to cook his meals. One evening, after setting up camp on a mountain, everyone went to bed for the night.

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The Bishop’s Missing Maid
To everyone’s surprise, the next morning the maid was missing. Naturally, this caused a lot of alarm, and the bishop’s party searched high and low for her, but she was nowhere to be found. The bishop, being sharp and well-versed in local lore, suspected that she had been taken by elves.
Now, among the bishop’s servants was a man known as Jón the Giant. True to his nickname, Jón was massive and incredibly strong. The bishop called him over and said, “Jón, I need you to stay in my tent and keep watch. If the maid shows up, grab her and don’t let her go, no matter how much she struggles or begs. And be careful—she might try to trick you with lies to escape.”
After giving these instructions, the bishop grabbed his staff, stepped outside the tent, and drew three circles on the ground around it. Then he walked off into the night without saying where he was going.
The Strange Return of the Maid
Meanwhile, Jón the Giant sat down on the bishop’s bed and waited, staying perfectly still. Time passed, and then—sure enough—the maid appeared. She wasn’t wearing any shoes and ran straight into the tent. She headed toward the bishop’s pillow, as if trying to retrieve something from underneath it. But John was quick; he stood up, grabbed her, and held on tight.
At first, the maid pleaded with him, claiming the bishop had sent her to fetch something and that she needed to hurry back to him. But Jón wasn’t fooled. He ignored her begging and held her firmly, no matter how much she fought and struggled.
While this was happening, the other servants outside saw something truly eerie: twelve men dressed in blue, riding on horseback, approaching the tent. But as soon as these riders reached the edge of the circles the bishop had drawn, they stopped abruptly—almost as if they’d hit an invisible wall—and vanished into thin air. The circles, it turned out, were magical barriers created by the bishop’s staff, keeping anything unholy or evil from entering.
A Tale of Elves and Magic
Not long after, the bishop returned. He ordered his servants to tie up the maid until she calmed down, then left again. Eventually, the maid came back to her senses, and once she did, everyone was eager to hear what had happened to her.
She explained that, during the night, a man had come to her bedside, taken her hand, and led her out of the camp. She didn’t know why or where they were going until they arrived at a mound. Once inside, she found herself in a grand hall filled with people. At the far end of the hall, a group of women gave her a spinning wheel and some hemp and told her to spin it when she woke up in the morning.
But things took a strange turn. She said the bishop had appeared to her in that hall and told her to hurry back to the tent to fetch his keys from under his pillow. In her rush, she hadn’t even put on her shoes before running back.
Outwitting the Elves
And that was how the bishop, who was not only a holy man but also well-versed in magic, outsmarted the elves and rescued his maid from their grasp. This wasn’t his first time dealing with such mischief, and those who knew him believed he could’ve pulled off the rescue a hundred different ways. The elves didn’t stand a chance against him!
Random Fact of the Episode
Þorlákur Þórhallsson is Iceland’s most famous bishop. He was the bishop of Skáholt from 1178-1193. Five years after his death on December 23rd, 1193, he was canonized as a saint. Pope John Paul the II declared St. Þorlak the patron saint of Iceland.
December 23rd in Iceland is called Þorláksmessa or Þorlákur‘s feast where a decent number of Icelanders eat fermented skate or skata. It is a type of fish that when fermented has an insanely pungent smell.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Biskup – Bishop
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The Strange Disappearance of the Bishop’s Maid

In the rugged highlands of Iceland, a troll named Bergþór lived with his wife in a cave called Hundahellir, nestled in the slopes of Bláfell. Unlike the fearsome reputation trolls usually have, Bergþór was a gentle giant, mild-mannered and kind—though not someone you’d want to provoke. Skilled in the mysterious “black arts,” Bergþór kept mostly to himself.

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The Tale of Bergþór the Troll
Not far from the cave stood a farm in Haukadalur, where an elderly farmer lived. One day, Bergþór visited the farmer with an unusual request.
“When I die,” the troll said, “I want to be buried where I can hear the sound of church bells and running water. Please promise to lay me to rest in the churchyard at Haukadalur. As a sign of my passing, you’ll find my large wooden staff at your door. And as thanks for fulfilling my wish, you’re welcome to take whatever you find in the kettle by my bedside.”
The farmer agreed, and with that, Bergþór left.
A Mysterious Death
Time passed, and one crisp morning, the farmer’s servants stumbled upon a massive wooden staff leaning against the farmhouse door. When they told the farmer, he immediately knew—it was Bergþór’s staff.
Without delay, the farmer and his men prepared a coffin and set out for Bláfell. Inside the cave, they found Bergþór’s enormous body lying lifeless. Surprisingly, the troll’s gigantic corpse was remarkably light, almost as if it were hollow.
They gently placed him in the coffin, still marveling at the strange sight.Beside Bergþór’s bed, they noticed a large kettle.
Remembering the troll’s promise, the farmer eagerly opened it, expecting to find a treasure trove of gold. But to his dismay, the kettle was filled with nothing but dead leaves.
The farmer’s anger flared. Had Bergþór tricked him? Still, one of the men decided to fill his gloves with the leaves, just in case there was more to them than met the eye. With the kettle left behind, they carried the coffin down the mountain.
Leaves Turn to Gold
At the base of the hill, they paused to rest. The man who had taken the leaves peeked into his gloves—and gasped. The leaves had transformed into gold coins!
Word quickly spread, and the farmer, now hopeful, rushed back to the cave with his men. But no matter how hard they searched, the cave and the kettle had completely vanished. Others who heard the tale also scoured the mountain in vain. It seemed that Bergþór’s magic had hidden the treasure for good.
In the end, the farmer kept his promise. Bergþór was buried in the Haukadalur churchyard, and the mound where the troll rests is still known as “Bergþór’s Mound” today.
Random Fact of the Episode
Haukadalur Valley, located in southwestern Iceland, is a stunning geothermal area famed for its geysers and hot springs. Part of the Golden Circle, it features Strokkur, one of Iceland’s most reliable geysers, which erupts every 4 to 10 minutes, sending water as high as 30 meters into the air.
Nearby is the iconic Great Geysir, which gave its name to geysers worldwide. Although Geysir rarely erupts now, it remains a significant natural feature. The valley also boasts over 40 smaller hot springs, mud pots, and fumaroles, offering a dynamic and colorful geothermal landscape.
Haukadalsskógur, the valley’s forest, is a cultivated area that began as a reforestation project in the 1930s to combat severe soil erosion. It features marked hiking trails, including wheelchair-accessible paths, and is a serene spot for birdwatching and picnics.
The forest contains various tree species, some commemorated on a totem pole, symbolizing international connections. Nearby, the Beiná River runs through the area, contributing to its lush environment​.
Icelandic word of the episode
Bergþórsleiði – Bergþórs mound or gravesite
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A Gentle Icelandic Troll Who Left Behind Mysterious Treasures

From ancient times, Helgafell has been steeped in mystery and supernatural lore. Early settlers in the area believed this hill was more than just a geographical feature—it was a place of profound spiritual power. One of the first settlers, Þórólfur, held the hill in such high regard that he declared no one could even glance at it without first cleansing themselves. Helgafell was also a sanctuary, a safe haven where no person or animal could be harmed. Þórólfur and his sons were so devoted to this sacred spot that they believed their spirits would be taken into the mountain upon their deaths.

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A Sacred Hill Steeped in Lore
From ancient times, Helgafell (which translates to “Sacred Hill”) has been steeped in mystery and supernatural lore. Early settlers in the area believed this hill was more than just a geographical feature—it was a place of profound spiritual power.
One of the first settlers, Þórólfur, held the hill in such high regard that he declared no one could even glance at it without first cleansing themselves. Helgafell was also a sanctuary, a safe haven where no person or animal could be harmed. Þórólfur and his sons were so devoted to this sacred spot that they believed their spirits would be taken into the mountain upon their deaths.
From Pagan Worship to Christian Reverence
Before Iceland converted to Christianity, the people who revered Helgafell were pagans who worshiped the Norse gods like Þór (Thor) and Óðinn (Odin). Interestingly, the hill’s sacred status endured even after Christianity became the dominant religion.
Monks eventually built a small chapel on Helgafell, and though it’s no longer standing, you can still see the faint remnants of its stone foundation today. The hill’s spiritual significance seems to transcend belief systems, making it a symbol of both ancient traditions and new religious practices.
The Mystical Ritual of the Three Wishes
One of the most fascinating traditions tied to Helgafell is the ritual of the three wishes. For those curious to try their luck, here’s how it works: Start your journey at the grave of Guðrún Ósvífrsdóttir, a notable figure from Icelandic sagas, located nearby. As you climb the hill, you must remain completely silent—no words, no turning back.
Once you reach the top, stand by the old chapel ruins, face east, and make three heartfelt wishes. But there’s a catch! Your wishes must come from a place of pure intentions—they can’t harm anyone, and you can’t tell anyone what you wished for. Over the centuries, many have claimed success with this tradition, swearing by the power of Helgafell to grant their desires.
A Must-Visit Spot in the Snæfellsnes Peninsula
If you ever find yourself in the northern part of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, consider visiting Helgafell. Whether or not you believe in its mystical power, the experience is sure to leave you with a sense of awe and connection to Iceland’s rich folklore.
From its ancient Norse roots to its enduring Christian connections, Helgafell offers visitors a chance to walk in the footsteps of history, tradition, and spirituality—all while taking in the breathtaking beauty of the Icelandic landscape.
Random Fact of the Episode
My personal experience with climbing Helgafell was so much fun. There were even two farm dogs from nearby that followed me up the mountain. They were also silent and great companions. I honestly could not have asked for a better and more fun time hiking that mountain.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Helgafell – holy mountain or sacred hill
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Helgafell – A Wish Granting Mountain on the Snæfellnes Peninsula

Today, I’m tackling a topic that often confuses visitors—tipping culture in Iceland. If you’re used to tipping as a standard practice in your home country, Iceland’s approach might surprise you!
This is a question I have gotten quite often in the “Ask Jewells Anything” segment of the podcast, so I am doing a separate episode on it. 
Is Tipping Expected in Iceland?
In Iceland, tipping is generally not expected, nor is it a significant part of the service industry. This stems from the country’s strong labor laws, which ensure that workers receive fair wages, eliminating the need to rely on gratuities.
Service charges are often already included in the price you pay, making tipping unnecessary. However, showing appreciation for exceptional service with a small tip is possible but not obligatory. For instance, if you see a small tipping jar at a café, those funds might be used for the employees to have a fun social gathering or it might be donated to an organization, like the Red Cross.
When Tipping Might Be Appropriate But Still Not Obligated
While tipping is not the norm, there are instances where it might feel appropriate to leave a little extra. If there is not a tip jar present, which is common that there isn’t, then ask the server or person if it is ok if you leave a tip. Don’t be surprised if the person tells you that they don’t take tips.

Restaurants: Rounding up your bill or leaving about 5-10% for exceptional service is appreciated, though not required.
Guided Tours: A tip for a knowledgeable or entertaining tour guide is a thoughtful gesture. This is especially common among travelers who enjoy personalized or immersive experiences.
Hotels: Tipping hotel staff isn’t expected, but a small amount for exceptional service, such as arranging tours or special accommodations, can be a nice touch.
Taxis: It’s customary to round up to the nearest whole number when paying your fare, but even this is not mandatory.

Cultural Context About Why Tipping in Iceland is not Common
It’s important to remember that Iceland’s relaxed attitude toward tipping reflects the fact that unions in the country protect workers so that they can make a livable wage. The agreements made by unions ensure that workers earn enough to cover their basic living expenses, reducing reliance on tips as part of their income. Unlike in some other countries, service workers are compensated well and don’t depend on tips to make ends meet.
Tips for Tourists

Don’t feel obligated to tip—your Icelandic hosts won’t expect it.
If you’d like to tip, use Icelandic krona (ISK) for convenience.
If rounding up, keep it simple and let your gesture reflect your appreciation rather than following a strict rule.

Tipping in Iceland is one of those delightful cultural quirks that demonstrates the country’s unique approach to hospitality and fairness. Understanding this can help you navigate social situations and avoid overthinking the bill.
Random Fact of the Episode
Even though I grew up in the United States and was used to the idea of leaving tips, I have become so accustomed to not leaving tips because of living here that I sometimes get a little shocked when I am visiting the states.
I was in NYC last October and I felt kind of silly  that I almost forgot to tip when we went out to eat. I don’t know if that system will ever change in the US but it is very nice to go out to eat and know that the price on the menu is exactly what you will pay at the end of the meal.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Þjórfé – tip
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Iceland’s Tipping Culture: What Visitors Should Know

Sprengisandur is a barren and desolate highland plateau in central Iceland, located between the Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull glaciers. Historically, it was an infamous north-south route connecting various regions, including access to the Alþingi (Iceland’s parliament) at Þingvellir during medieval times.
This route, however, was fraught with extreme challenges, making it one of the most feared and avoided paths of the Icelandic interior.

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Why Sprengisandur was so dangerous for Icelanders?
Travelers faced vast stretches of uninhabited terrain, where no shelter, food, or water was available for miles. The volcanic ash deserts offered no forage for horses, and the journey had to be completed swiftly, often pushing horses to their limits. The route was also steeped in superstition, with tales of ghosts and spirits haunting the desolate sands adding to its ominous reputation.
Today, a gravel road roughly follows the ancient trail, accessible only in summer, and is popular among adventurous travelers equipped with robust vehicles. It offers dramatic views of glaciers, mountains, and volcanic landscapes, preserving its mystique as one of Iceland’s most challenging historical route.
A Chilling Tale of A Man Who Tried to Cross Sprengisandur for Love
There was a man named Starkaður who lived in northern Iceland but the woman he loved lived in the far south. Driven by love, Starkaður decided to make the long journey across the harsh and desolate Sprengisandur to see her.
Tragically, he was caught in a fierce storm along the way and succumbed to the freezing conditions beneath a rock. That rock, now called Starkaðarsteinn (Starkaður’s Rock), marks the spot where he died. The surrounding area was also named in his memory, becoming known as Starkaðarver.
Around the time of his death, his love had a vivid dream in which Starkaður appeared to her. In this dream, he recited a poignant verse:
“Sorrows and harms for a woman’s charms
men have often suffered.
Starkaður’s bones under the stones
still lie undiscovered.”
Random Fact of the Episode 
		https://youtu.be/ogUgm3K8KVI?si=C2PWn9NRC0muBwIM
“Á Sprengisandi” is a well known Icelandic song about this desolate and dangerous black sand desert in the highlands. It means “At Sprengisandur” and warns people that if they do not travel quickly through this area, they can meet their peril.
Icelandic Word of the Episode 
The name “Sprengisandur” reflects this urgency, stemming from the Icelandic word sprengja, meaning “to exhaust” or “to burst,” referring to the strain placed on horses during the crossing.
Harsh weather, including strong winds and snow, compounded the danger, and travelers who ventured too late in the season risked becoming stranded or perishing from exposure.
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Sprengisandur: Iceland’s Most Haunting and Beautiful Desert

To celebrate the relaunch of the All Things Iceland online store, I am doing a 20% site-wide sale. This sale is only valid through Wednesday, November 27th at 11:59 PM EST or while supplies last.
Below are some examples of Iceland inspired gifts that you can get for yourself or a loved one this holiday season.
Iceland Inspired Gifts for the Holidays
 
 

 

 

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Iceland Inspired Gifts – 20% Off Everything for a Limited Time

Many centuries ago, a mysterious woman arrived in the small community of Nes in Borgarfjörður. No one knew where she had come from, but her beauty and grace quickly won the respect of the locals. She settled in Nes and gradually took control of the entire estate, becoming its mistress. Her name was Snotra, and though she was admired, she carried an air of secrecy.

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The Mysterious Woman Challenges Her Steward
One day, Snotra appointed a steward to manage the estate and presented him with a challenge. She told him she would be leaving for the Christmas holiday, but when she returned, he must correctly guess where she had been. If he failed, he would forfeit his life. However, if he succeeded, she promised to reward him richly.
As Christmas approached, Snotra made preparations to leave. On Christmas Eve, she departed without revealing her destination. When she returned after the holiday, she asked the steward if he could say where she had been. He admitted he could not. Shortly after, the steward vanished, never to be seen again.
This same fate befell two more stewards, each unable to solve the mystery of Snotra’s Christmas journeys. Finally, a fourth steward was appointed. Like the others, Snotra told him he must uncover her secret or face dire consequences. The steward, however, resolved to succeed where the others had failed.
Christmas with a Twist
As Christmas Eve arrived, the workers retired for the night, but the steward stayed awake. Hidden in the shadows, he watched as Snotra slipped out of the house carrying a bundle. He followed her silently across the fields to the rocky shore, where she sat and unwrapped her parcel.
Inside were delicate veils. Snotra draped one veil over her head and threw another into the sea. As she leapt into the water, the steward boldly grabbed a veil and followed her. Suddenly, they were traveling through a swirling mist until they emerged in a land unlike any he had ever seen. The air was filled with the scent of herbs and fruit, and the landscape was lush with orchards.
In the distance, the steward saw a magnificent city surrounded by high walls. Snotra, now wearing her veil, entered the city gates to the sound of music and a warm welcome. She gestured for the steward to stay in a small building near two tall structures, from which he could observe what happened inside the grand hall.
Curious, the steward peered through a window and saw an incredible celebration. The hall was filled with people in splendid clothing, dancing and feasting. At the center of the festivities sat a noble man on a throne, and beside him was Snotra, adorned in regal attire.
One Event Changes Everything
Night after night, the steward watched the same scene: music, dancing, and Snotra by the man’s side. On the last evening, he noticed a disturbance. Two men approached the nobleman, reporting that a cow had given birth to twin calves, but one was dead. The two women tasked with caring for the cow blamed each other for the calf’s death. The nobleman grew angry at the dispute, and the steward could see the tension in the hall.
When Christmas ended, Snotra prepared to leave. A grand procession escorted her from the city, with the nobleman leading her by the hand. The steward followed her as she retraced her path through the mist, arriving back at the same rocky shore. She removed her veil and folded it carefully, and the steward did the same before throwing his veil to her.
Snotra said nothing and returned to the house. The steward followed her and rested until morning. When the workers rose for their daily tasks, Snotra approached him and asked if he could say where she had been. The steward replied, “I cannot say exactly, but I saw two women arguing over the death of a calf, and it angered the King.”
The Curse was Lifted
At this, Snotra smiled and said, “Thank you. You have broken the spell that bound me. Long ago, I was cursed to leave my husband and live apart from him, only able to see him at Christmas.
The curse could only be lifted if someone discovered where I went during the holiday. You are the first to succeed. For this, I grant you all my estate and possessions. May you enjoy good fortune.” With that, Snotra disappeared, never to be seen again. The farm was henceforth called Snotrunes in her memory.
Random Fact of the Episode
Borgarfjörður eystri renowned for its breathtaking landscapes, vibrant birdlife, and rich folklore. Nestled between rugged mountains and the sea, this charming village is a paradise for hikers, with trails like Stórurð leading to striking glacial boulder formations and emerald-green valleys.
It’s also a prime spot for puffin watching at Hafnarhólmi, one of Iceland’s best bird-watching cliffs. The area brims with Icelandic legends, including stories of elves said to inhabit the mystical Álfaborg rock. Visitors can enjoy serene nature, local culture, and stunning views, making it a must-visit for adventurers and nature lovers alike.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Nes = headland
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The Cursed Elf Queen of East Iceland

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland. 
A Young Girl and Her Prankster Neighbor
In a small Icelandic village, there was a young boy who loved to play tricks and frighten a girl who lived nearby. He’d pop up unexpectedly, trying to make her jump. But over time, she became so used to his tricks that nothing he did could scare her anymore. Anything strange she encountered, she dismissed as one of his pranks.
One day, the girl was sent to the churchyard by her mother to fetch linen hung there to dry. As she worked, she noticed a figure sitting on a tombstone, dressed in all white. Instantly, she thought it was the boy up to his usual tricks, so she marched up, grabbed the figure’s white cap, and declared she wouldn’t be scared this time. With a smug grin, she returned home with the cap in her basket.
The Realization of a Grave Mistake
But when she arrived home, the boy was already at the house, greeting her with a puzzled look. Confused and unnerved, she sorted through the linen and found the cap she had taken from the figure. It was damp with mold and smelled of earth. Realizing the figure hadn’t been the boy, the family understood the girl had encountered a ghost. Fear swept through the village.
The next day, the ghost reappeared on the same tombstone, this time without its white cap. No one dared approach it, fearing the consequences. Desperate, the villagers called for an old man from a neighboring village known for his wisdom. He advised that the cap had to be returned to the ghost, in complete silence, by the girl who had taken it.
Returning the Cap & The Consequences
So the entire village gathered in the churchyard as the girl nervously approached the ghost, cap in hand. She placed it back on its head and asked if it was satisfied. The ghost looked up, a cold gaze in its eyes, and replied, “Yes, but are *you* now satisfied?” It then raised a hand, struck her, and she fell dead on the spot. Without another word, the ghost sank into the grave, disappearing forever.
Random Fact of the Episode
While you might think that this story might make Icelander’s afraid of going to graveyards because they could encounter a ghost, this doesn’t seem to be the case. In fact, in the days leading up to Christmas and especially on December 24th, Icelanders can be seen in graveyards decorating the graves of their loved ones with candles and decorative lights.
If a group of them go, they tell fond stories of the loved one that they are there to honor. I find it sweet and interesting because you can see the graveyards lit up from a distance.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Kirkjugarður – graveyard
Literally translates to church garden.
Kirkja – church
Garður – garden
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Silent Terror: The Icelandic Ghost Story You Won’t Forget

Experiencing *Into the Glacier* in Iceland was like stepping into a different world—a frozen wonderland hidden deep within Langjökull, Iceland’s second-largest glacier. It was truly mesmerizing to see the glacier from the inside, which made me feel like I was in the heart of an enormous frozen giant.
Is it Safe to Visit “Into the Glacier” Anytime of Year?
When it comes to those wondering about safety, the *Into the Glacier* experience is indeed safe. The ice tunnels were engineered with extreme care, taking into account both glacial shifts and temperature stability.
The tour operators maintain the tunnels regularly, and visitors are provided with the necessary equipment, like crampons, to safely walk on ice. Additionally, experienced guides accompany each group, ensuring that everyone is informed about safety measures while they explore this icy wonderland.
The Adventurous Ride on the Glacier & Into the Tunnel
  
The journey to reach this icy marvel began with an exciting ride in a massive truck, custom-built for navigating the rugged, icy terrain. This monster vehicle rumbled up the glacier for nearly an hour and a half, offering glimpses of the snow-covered landscape as we climbed higher. When we arrived, the true adventure began as we stepped into a small tent that led directly into the glacier’s inner sanctum.
Once inside, we were handed crampons, which are ice chains for your shoes, to safely walk on the icy surface. The temperature in the tunnels is a steady 32°F (0°C), so dressing warmly is essential. Moving through the tunnels, I was in awe of the surreal, radiant blue ice.
Being surrounded by walls of ice, created by a unique mix of nature and engineering, felt like discovering a secret known only to scientists and glaciologists—until now. The massive tunnel system, stretching through Langjökull, is an extraordinary feat that brings people right into the core of a glacier, something I had only dreamed of seeing.
There are several ice chambers that we visit, like the Chapel. People have actually gotten married in this chapel, which is pretty cool. I enjoyed exploring this icy wonderland and I think it is a once in a lifetime opportunity to be this deep inside of a glacier and it is stable. I learned so many cool things during this experience, including the facts below.
Experience “Into the Glacier” in Iceland at a Discount
I went on the “Into the Glacier” adventure with Arctic Adventures. If you use my code iceland10 with them for this trip and other experiences, you can save 10% on the cost of the tour.
Here are seven unique facts about the “Into the Glacier” experience:
  

The Largest Ice Tunnel in the World: This man-made marvel is currently the largest ice tunnel globally, carved specifically to allow people to journey into the depths of a glacier.
Situated on Iceland’s Second-Largest Glacier: The ice tunnel sits within Langjökull, covering about 950 square kilometers and mostly standing over 1,200 meters above sea level. 500 meters long (1600 feet), 3 meters tall (9.8 feet tall), and 3.5 meters wide (11.5 feet wide)
Legend of the Troll Þórir: Near the glacier, Þórisjökull is a smaller glacier linked to a local legend about a troll named Þórir, who supposedly lived in a green valley between Langjökull and the smaller glacier.
A 2010 Vision Brought to Life: The ice tunnel was imagined in 2010 by Baldvin Einarsson and Hallgrímur Örn Arngrímsson, who wanted to give people access not just to the glacier’s surface, but also to its icy core.
Built with Scientific and Engineering Precision: The creation of the tunnel involved renowned geophysicist Ari Trausti Guðmundsson and a team of engineers who rigorously planned, modeled, and constructed the tunnels to withstand the glacier’s movements.
A Glimpse into “Blue Ice”: Inside the glacier, you can witness “blue ice,” which is buried deep within and has been compressed over centuries, making it denser and incredibly vibrant in color.
A Glacial Viewpoint Like No Other: When conditions are clear, visitors on top of Langjökull are treated to breathtaking panoramic views stretching across the Icelandic highlands.

Random fact of the Episode
Among the many things I learned on this adventure, one stood out that surprised me the most. For the longest time, I knew that a glacier is an accumulation of enough snow that transforms into ice. Over time, that build up can be quite substantial. However, the key thing that I either don’t remember hearing or never knew is that in order for this accumulation to qualify as a glacier, it must flow outwards and downwards due to the pressure of its own weight. We drove by the now former glacier Ok, which still has some ice but there is not enough for it to move downhill under its own weight.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Langjökull – long glacier
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7 Fascinating Facts I Learned Inside Iceland’s Langjökull Glacier

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland
The Troll Woman & Bjarni
Once upon a time, a farmer named Bjarni lived in Skaftafell. He was known for his skilled craftsmanship and resourcefulness. High in a cave above the Skaftafell Woods, there lived a troll-woman who had become a loyal friend to Bjarni. She watched over his sheep in the mountains and guarded his driftwood along the shore.
One harsh winter, the troll-woman visited Bjarni with troubling news: a ship had wrecked on the coast, leaving only one survivor. But this wasn’t any ordinary man—it was a wild, dangerous brute, and she feared he would bring ruin to all of southern Iceland if left unchecked. Without hesitation, she took up an axe and accompanied Bjarni down to the shore, where she bravely fought the savage and defeated him.
Generations passed, but the troll-woman stayed connected to Bjarni’s family, protecting them as she had him. To this day, people say her cave still stands above Skaftafell, with a skylight in its roof and a bed carved right into the stone—a bed so large it could only have belonged to a troll. And they say Bjarni, ever thoughtful, crafted the cave’s door and its sturdy fittings to make it a cozy home for his unusual friend.
The Troll Woman and Einar
Years later, another man named Einar lived in Skaftafell. He, too, knew of a troll-woman. Once, while traveling through thick fog, he suspected the mist was no natural haze. Feeling uneasy, Einar took his axe and threw it far. Instantly, the fog lifted, and he was able to make his way home. But just as he arrived, one of his horses collapsed, and Einar found his axe lying on his doorstep—this time covered in blood.
The following year, Einar was setting off to cross the Skeidará river when he met a towering woman. She asked if she could borrow one of his horses to cross the water. At first, he hesitated, remembering how one of his horses had been strained the year before. But then, the woman explained it had been because of a prank he’d pulled. She showed him a scar where his axe had struck her, revealing that she was the one who had lifted the fog.
Einar believed her, and they crossed the river safely. During this crossing, the troll woman teased Einar a bit, which he did not take well. To get revenge, he went home and made a cooper gun. After tracking her down, the troll woman apologized for teasing him and they were on good terms again.
After that she vowed to do what he wished and his only ask of her was to not let anyone steal his driftwood. And so, the legend of the troll-woman and her friendship with the people of Skaftafell endures to this day, her protective spirit woven into the landscape and the lore of Iceland.
Random Fact of the Episode
Skaftafell is a stunning nature reserve inside of Vatnajökull National Park. In that area, you can hike to the Svartifoss waterfall or go on a glacier hike/ice climbing adventure. There are many hiking paths in this area and I highly recommend checking it out. During winter, there are ice cave tours avaiable on the glaciers too. If you plan to take a glacier hike here, feel free to use my code Iceland10 with Arctic Adventures to save 10%.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
goðsögn – legend
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Not All Icelandic Trolls Are Villains: A Tale of the Skaftafell Farm Protector

Eyþór is an Icelandic antiquarian with an impressive rare book collection. For many years, he has been collecting and restoring rare books, some of which are important original Icelandic manuscripts. We sat down to chat about his collection and so much more.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkKR4qoW67A		
Questions I Asked Eyþór During the Interview?

When did your fascination with antique book collecting and restoration start?
How many books are in your collection?
What is your process of restoration? How long does it take to restore a book?
Do you have any strange books in your collection? What is the oldest book that you have?
You’ve had many visitors to see your collection. Is there anyone who visited your collection that surprised you?
Do you ever display your collections to the public?
Where can people find you online if they want to follow along with what you are doing?
What’s your favorite Icelandic word or phrase?

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Meet Iceland’s Guardian of Rare Books: Eyþór Guðmundsson

This is episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland. 
Sleipnir’s Hoofprint: The Mythic Origins of Ásbyrgi
According to Icelandic legend, the stunning horseshoe-shaped canyon of Ásbyrgi was formed by the mighty hoofprint of Sleipnir, Odin’s legendary eight-legged steed. As the Norse god rode across the sky on his powerful horse, Sleipnir took an extraordinary leap, imprinting his hoof on Earth and leaving behind the shape of Ásbyrgi Canyon. This tale weaves Ásbyrgi into the fabric of Norse mythology, offering a mystical origin story that resonates deeply with Iceland’s cultural heritage.
Álfakirkja: The Elfin Church
Beyond natural explanations, folklore suggests that Ásbyrgi served as a sacred gathering site for Iceland’s hidden folk, or Huldufólk. Often referred to as “Álfakirkja” or the Elfin Church, the canyon is said to be a place where elves and other mystical beings held their celebrations and gatherings. This enchanting narrative adds a supernatural charm to Ásbyrgi, further heightening its allure as a place where nature and folklore intertwine.
Random Fact of the Episode
The initial carving (8-10 Million Years Ago) of Ásbyrgi  began eight to ten million years ago, during a time of dramatic glacial floods from the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river. Likely triggered by a volcanic eruption beneath Iceland’s massive Vatnajökull glacier, these catastrophic floods began carving the canyon shortly after the last Ice Age, setting the stage for its iconic horseshoe shape.
 About 3000 years ago, further glacial floods from Jökulsá á Fjöllum once again surged through the canyon, deepening and refining its form. This powerful combination of volcanic and glacial forces crafted Ásbyrgi’s unique shape, etching a story of geological transformation that spans millions of years.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Ásbyrgi –  the Shelter of the Gods
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Ásbyrgi Canyon: A Stunning Relic of Norse Mythology and Iceland’s Hidden Folk!

This is episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland. 
Who is Búkolla the Magic Icelandic Cow?
Once upon a time, there was an old man and his wife who lived in a small cottage with their son. They weren’t particularly fond of him, but they had little else in their life besides a single cow, Búkolla, who was their most prized possession.
One day, Búkolla gave birth to a calf, and after helping with the birth, the old woman stepped away for a moment. When she returned, Búkolla was gone! The couple searched high and low but couldn’t find her anywhere. Furious, they ordered their son to find the cow and told him not to come back without her.
Trying to find Búkolla
Off he went, into the unknown, armed with only some food and new shoes. As he walked, he grew tired and sat down to eat. “Bellow now, my Búkolla, if you’re out there,” he called out. Far in the distance, he heard a faint bellow.
Encouraged, the boy walked further. After some time, he stopped again, calling, “Bellow now, my Búkolla, if you’re alive.” The bellow was louder, closer.
Finally, he climbed to the top of some tall rocks, sat down once more, and called out, “Bellow now, my Búkolla!” This time, he heard her right beneath him. Climbing down, he found a cave where Búkolla was chained. He freed her and began the journey home. 
Escaping Treacherous Trolls
But before long, he noticed something terrifying—a giant troll and a smaller one chasing after him!
The boy panicked, realizing the troll’s long strides would soon catch up. “What do we do, Búkolla?” he asked.
“Pull a hair from my tail and drop it on the ground,” Búkolla replied. He did as she said, and Búkolla spoke to the hair:
“Become a river so wide that only a bird can cross it.”Immediately, a massive river appeared between them and the trolls. The larger troll, undeterred, ordered the smaller one, “Go fetch my father’s giant bull!”
The smaller troll rushed off and returned with a huge bull, which drank up the entire river in a single gulp.
The boy’s heart raced as the trolls closed in. “What now, Búkolla?”
“Take another hair and drop it,” she said. Once he did, she proclaimed, “Become a flame so high that even a bird cannot fly over it!”
A wall of fire erupted before them. But the trolls were persistent. The larger troll commanded, “Fetch my father’s bull again!” The smaller troll fetched the bull, which spat all the water it had drunk from the river onto the flames, extinguishing them.
Once again, the boy asked, “What do we do, Búkolla?”
“Take one more hair and drop it,” Búkolla instructed. “Now, become a mountain so tall that nothing but a bird can cross it.”
Búkolla Returns Home
Before their eyes, a towering mountain shot up. The giant troll, furious but determined, sent the smaller troll to fetch her father’s bore-iron. With the iron, the troll drilled through the mountain.
But she was so eager to squeeze through the narrow hole she had made that she got stuck. And there she remains, turned to stone, unable to pursue them any further.
The boy finally returned home with Búkolla, and for the first time, his parents were genuinely happy to see him. Their cow was safe, and all was well again.
Random Fact of the Episode
There are many children’s books about Búkolla in Iceland. During Jónsmessa or Midsummer Night, cows gain the ability to speak among other strange things that happen that night. It is interesting how cows having the abiliy to talk comes up in Icelandic folklore.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Kýr – cow
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What Makes Búkolla So Special? The Story of Iceland’s Enchanted Cow

This is episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland. 
How Dimmuborgir was Said to be formed?
Legend has it that Dimmuborgir, with its eerie rock formations and twisting lava fields, is more than just a natural wonder. Some say it’s a hidden gateway to a mysterious, parallel world – a realm where Iceland’s most elusive creatures reside.
Elves, trolls, and other mythical beings are said to call this shadowy place home, slipping in and out of our world through secret passages among the towering rocks.
In other tales, especially in Nordic Christian lore, Dimmuborgir takes on an even darker role. It’s believed to be the very spot where Satan crashed to Earth after being cast out of Heaven. From there, he is said to have forged the catacombs of Hell, using the strange landscape as his foundation.
For those who visit Dimmuborgir today, the air still hums with the legends of this supernatural past, making it feel as if you’re standing on the edge of another world.
Random Fact of the Episode
It is estimated that Dimmuborgir was created about 2,300 years ago after a huge volcanic eruption. It‘s a beautiful and sort of eery place. In North Iceland and can be part of your Diamond Circle route.
Explore Iceland on Your Own & Save
I want to give a shout-out to our amazing sponsors, Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers.
I use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.
They’ve also given me a link so you can save 7% on your rental, plus get a couple of really useful extras.
With Go Car Rental, you’ll save 7% and get free 4G WiFi with your rental.
With Go Campers, you’ll save 7% and get a free sleeping bag included.
You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsicelandfor the discounts.
Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.
For Go Car:When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added.
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And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Dimmuborgir translates to “dark castles” or “dark cities.
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Is Dimmuborgir Iceland’s Gate to Hell? The Shocking Tale Behind This Strange Lava Field

This is episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland. 
How an Icelandic Fisherman Caught a Merman
Many years ago, there was a farmer living in Vogar, famous for being the best fisherman around. No one could match his skill, and his farm flourished because of it. One day, while he was out on the water, something strange happened. He cast his line into the sea like usual, but when he tried to reel it in, it felt impossibly heavy, as if he had snagged a massive catch.
To his surprise, when he finally pulled it up, it wasn’t just a fish—he’d caught a strange creature with the body of a man!
Startled, the fisherman blurted out, “What in the world are you?”
The creature responded calmly, “I am a merman from the deep sea.”
Curious, the farmer asked, “What were you doing when my hook got you?”
The merman replied, “I was adjusting the chimney cowl on my mother’s house to make it face the wind. Now, let me go!”
But the farmer wasn’t ready to release him just yet. “Not so fast,” he said. “You’ll have to serve me for a bit first.”
Without further discussion, the fisherman dragged the merman into his boat and rowed back to shore.
The Merman Notices Some Interesting Things About the Fisherman
When they reached land, the fisherman’s loyal dog ran up to greet him, barking happily and wagging its tail. But in a foul mood, the farmer struck the dog for being too excited. At this, the merman chuckled softly but didn’t explain why.
As the fisherman headed toward his house, pulling the merman behind him, he stumbled over a small hill. Annoyed, he cursed at it. The merman laughed again, louder this time.
Finally, when they arrived at the house, the fisherman’s wife rushed out to greet him, wrapping her arms around him affectionately. Pleased with her welcome, he smiled—only to hear the merman laugh a third time.The farmer, now curious, asked, “You’ve laughed three times. Why?”
“I’ll only tell you,” said the merman, “if you promise to take me back to the sea and let me go.”The fisherman agreed, eager to hear the reasons.
The merman began, “I laughed the first time when you hit your dog, who was only showing you honest joy. The second time, I laughed because you cursed the hill—yet beneath it lies a fortune in gold. The third time, I laughed because your wife’s embrace, though it pleased you, was hollow. She is unfaithful to you.”
Shocked, the farmer said, “I’ll believe you if I find gold in that hill. The rest, we’ll see.”
The Fisherman is Shocked at What He Found
He immediately went to the hill and dug it up. Sure enough, he found a treasure of golden coins buried there, just as the merman had said.
Keeping his word, the farmer took the merman back to the sea. Before diving back into the depths, the merman said, “You’ve kept your promise, so I will reward you. Soon, you will come across something valuable. Be ready to claim it.”
Not long after, seven sea-grey cows appeared on the beach near the farmer’s land. They were wild and untamable, but the farmer noticed something unusual—they each had a small bladder attached to their noses. Remembering the merman’s words, the farmer chased after them, managing to burst the bladder on one of the cows. Immediately, the cow became calm, allowing the farmer to lead her home. The rest of the cows fled back into the sea.
That one grey cow turned out to be an incredible gift, giving more milk than any other cow in the land. She became the ancestor of a prized breed of grey cows, famous throughout Iceland.
The farmer grew rich and lived a prosperous life, but he never caught another merman. And as for his wife, well, nothing more was said about her after that, so we can only guess how that part of the story ended.
Random Fact of the Episode
Stories of Mermen often depict them as being very ugly with hands and feet. While they might not be pleasant to look like, mermen are not described as harmful to people and they are not evil.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Marbendill – Merman who is the male counterpart of the mythical female mermaid, is a legendary creature which is human from the waist up and fish-like from the waist down, but may assume normal human shape.
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The Merman Who Changed an Icelandic Fisherman’s Life Forever

This is episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. To hear other stories, I have shared so far, check them out on my website All Things Iceland. 
How Icelandic Necropants are Created
Imagine making a pact with your best friend—if one of you dies, the other gets to use the body for something truly bizarre: making a pair of magical pants. These aren’t just any pants though. They’re called Necropants, and they’re made from human skin, specifically from the waist down.
So, when one friend dies, the surviving one digs up the body, carefully peels off the skin from the legs (without making any holes, of course), and puts them on right away. Sounds grim, right? But here’s the catch—the pants don’t just sit on you like a creepy costume. They actually fuse to your body, becoming a part of you. You can wear them as long as you like, but eventually, you’ll have to pass them on to someone else if you want to keep the magic going.
But wait, what magic, you ask? Just wearing the pants isn’t enough to unlock the wealth. For that, you need to perform a twisted ritual. First, you must steal a coin from a desperately poor widow, and the timing is key—it has to be done during a church service, right between specific readings on Christmas, Easter, or Whit Sunday.
You then place this stolen coin into the “pocket” of the Necropants. And here’s where things get even stranger: that “pocket” is more like the, ahem, scrotum area of the pants. Once the coin is in, the pants magically start producing more coins. Free money, but with a dark price.
Why Some People Feel Necropants are Worth it
But these aren’t your average enchanted pants. If you remove the original stolen coin, the magic stops working. And then there’s the even darker part—when you’re ready to pass the pants to someone else, you can’t just hand them over. There’s a strict process. 
You have to remove the pants one leg at a time. First, the right leg comes off, and the new wearer has to immediately put on that same leg. Once they’re in, there’s no turning back. Even if they try to stop, they’re cursed to wear the full pants, like it or not.If you fail to pass them on properly, your soul could be in danger, and your body, once you’re dead, will be consumed by vermin. Some say these
Necropants are a gift from the devil himself, a symbol of the pact made with dark forces in exchange for earthly riches. But no matter how much wealth you gather, wearing them comes with a heavy cost.
Random Fact of the Episode
A replica of what these pants are supposed to look like are in the Icelandic Museum of Sorcery and Witchcraft in Hólmavík in the Westfjords region of the country.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
 Nábrók – necropants
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The Legend of Necropants: A Dark Icelandic Folktale with a Modern Twist

This is episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a Folklore story every Friday in 2024. 
How is a Tilberi Creature in Iceland formed?
In the heart of Icelandic folklore, there exists a strange and eerie creature known as the *tilberi* in the north and the *snakkur* in the south and west.
This mystical being is said to be the creation of witches, conjured specifically to steal milk from the farms of others. Only women have the knowledge and ability to summon and control this creature, using it to enrich their own dairy supplies.
Though the origins of the tilberi stretch back into the misty past, tales of it weren’t written down until the 17th century. Yet, one account from that time recalls a witch being punished in the year 1500 for possessing one. 
The ritual to create a tilberi is both chilling and secretive. At dawn on Whitsunday, a woman must steal a rib from a freshly buried body. She then wraps this rib in grey wool—wool that must also be stolen, plucked from a widow’s sheep just after it has been sheared. 
For the next three Sundays, at the communion table, she spits sanctified wine onto the bundle, slowly bringing it to life with each ritual. Finally, to complete the creature’s birth, she lets it suckle from the inside of her thigh, leaving a wart-like mark as a permanent reminder of the dark deed.
Why is a Tilberi is Dangerous?
Once created, the tilberi becomes an insatiable thief. The witch can send it out to steal milk from the cows and ewes of neighboring farms. 
 
The creature, able to stretch itself, leaps onto the back of its target, wrapping itself around the animal to suck from one or even two teats at once. When it returns to its mistress, it perches at her dairy window and cries out, “Full belly, Mummy!” or “Churn lid off, Mummy!” before vomiting the stolen milk into her butter churn. 
 
However, milk stolen by a tilberi bears a curse of its own. When churned, the butter forms curdled clumps or even melts into foam if a cross is made over it or a magical symbol, called the smjörhnútur (butterknot), is drawn into the mixture.
How Icelander’s Protected Their Livestock from a Tilberi
  
Farmers, plagued by udder infections and other signs of a tilberi’s presence, would protect their animals by making the sign of the cross beneath the cow’s udder or laying a Psalter on its spine. Though the tilberi was lightning-fast, if caught or pursued, it would flee back to its witch, hiding beneath her skirts.
 
But there was a way to stop the creature and its master. A brave soul could sew shut the petticoat of the witch, trapping both her and her creation. Then, they would meet a grim fate, either burned or drowned together, ending the dark magic for good.
 
This legend serves as a chilling reminder of the power of superstition and the mysterious bond between the witches of old and their strange creations.
Random Fact of the Episode 
If the woman who created the creature has a child of her own, a nightmare scenario unfolds. Should the tilberi, always hungry for milk, find its way to her breast, the consequences are dire—it may suck her dry, leading to her death.
 
Ridding oneself of this creature, however, comes with its own perilous ritual. To banish a *tilberi*, the woman must send it on an impossible task. She orders the creature to climb the mountain and gather every lamb’s dropping from the vast common pastures. In some versions of the tale, the tilberi is told to sort them into three piles, or collect all the droppings from three separate fields.
 
But the number three is the tilberi’s undoing. Being an evil creature, it cannot endure the power of this sacred number. As it toils endlessly, trying to complete the task, it either works itself to death or succumbs to the mystical force of three. In the end, only the human bone that gave it life remains, lying abandoned in the pasture, marking the creature’s demise and freeing its maker from a dark and deadly bond.
 
I will have some images of a Tilberi in the notes of this episode on All Things Iceland. If you want to see a model of one in person then I recommend visiting the Sorcery and Witchcraft Museum in Hólmavík in the Westfjords. 
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Tilberi – carrier 
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The Dark Tale of the Tilberi: Iceland’s Milk-Stealing Folklore Creature

Learn about cycling culture, different routes, races, and more from Búi Aðalsteinsson, an Icelandic cycling enthusiast and podcast host.
About Búi Aðalsteinsson
Búi Aðalsteinsson is a designer and has run the design studio Grallaragerðin since 2016, alongside various other jobs, he currently works at the Department of Service and Innovation at the City of Reykjavík.
Búi’s work emphasizes community and environmental aspects. His experience includes developing creative projects within Icelandic prisons, mapping the arrival of refugee children to Iceland, improving connections with plants, enhancing the utilization of by-products from vegetable farming in Iceland, and incorporating insects into food products. 
Búi was nominated for the Icelandic Design Awards in 2019, and in 2016, he won the Grapevine Design Award for Project of the Year, which focused on using insects in food production.
Recently, Búi has developed a remarkably strong interest in cycling and has started a podcast, Hjólavarpið, covering everything related to bicycles, both in terms of transportation and competitive cycling.
Búi’s Podcast About Cycling
Hjólavarpið is the name of the cycling podcast that Búi hosts.

Apple Podcasts  
Spotify 

  
Questions I asked Búi Aðalsteinsson During the Interview

What sparked your interest in cycling?
Can you share a little about cycling culture in Iceland and why it has taken off as a trend?
What to know if a person wants to bring their bike to Iceland?
Where can someone rent a bike in Reykjavík?
Are there any routes in the city that you enjoy cycling?
What are some competitive races in Iceland?
What have you learned about cycling in Iceland that surprised you?
What are your favorite cycling routes in the city and the countryside?
What is your favorite Icelandic word or phrase?

Links that Búi talked about during the interview

Public Transport Iceland
Cycling Iceland
Reiðhjólabændur on Facebook

  
Where to follow Búi and Hjólavarpið
Búi

Instagram

Hjólavarpið

Instagram
Facebook

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Exploring Iceland by Bike: Búi Aðalsteinsson Shares Insider Tips

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
Why Trolls Tried to Make the Westfjords of Iceland an Island
Centuries ago, in the wild and rugged land of Iceland, three mischievous trolls hatched a plan to reshape the landscape forever. Their goal? To sever the Westfjords from the rest of the island by digging a massive channel between Húnaflói Bay and Breiðafjörður Bay.
These trolls loved a good challenge, so they added a competitive twist: as they dug, they would turn the earth they dug into islands.Deep in their task, the trolls were so focused on their wicked work that they failed to notice the sky brightening—the worst mistake a troll could make, for sunlight spells doom to such creatures
The Trolls Try to Escape the Death
In the west, where two trolls toiled tirelessly, hundreds of small islands began to speckle the shallow waters of Breiðafjörður. But in the east, where one lone troll struggled with the deeper, harsher waters of Húnaflói, only a few meager mounds rose from the sea.
As the first light of dawn began to creep across the horizon, panic set in. The two trolls in the west abandoned their work and sprinted northeast, hoping to escape the deadly sunlight. But they were too late. The rays of the morning sun caught them in Kollafjörður, instantly turning them into stone, where they stand to this day.
Their frenzied digging left behind the Gilsfjörður and Bitrufjörður fjords—mere hours more and they might have succeeded in turning the Westfjords into an island.
Meanwhile, the third troll in the east, furious at her lack of progress, slammed her shovel into the ground in frustration. With a crack, a piece of earth broke free, forming what we now know as Grimsey Island. But before she could celebrate, the rising sun caught her as well, turning her to stone.
Today, her petrified form remains in the village of Drangsnes, known as the Kerling rock formation—a reminder of the trolls’ ill-fated quest to reshape Iceland’s coasts.
Random Fact of the Episode
The Westfjords is one of the oldest parts of Iceland. The ancient basaltic lava flows date back to the Tertiary period, which is around 7 to 16 million years ago.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Tröll – troll
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The Trolls Who Almost Changed Iceland’s Geography – Folklore Friday

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
Where is there treasure behind Skógafoss waterfall?
In Icelandic Legends and Fairy Tales, 1862-64, Jón Árnason (1819–1888) added more details to the story of Þrasi Þórólfsson in Skógar. It is said that Þrasi buried a chest full of gold and treasures beneath the Skógafoss waterfall, and in olden times, part of this chest was visible.
An old rhyme goes:


				“Þrasi’s chest is filled with treasure,
Hidden beneath Skógafoss waterfall,
The first to find it there,
Will discover great riches.”
			

Jón also recounts that around the year 1600, three men attempted to retrieve the chest. However, they were distracted when they thought their farmhouse was on fire. Rushing back, they found no fire. When they returned to the waterfall, they managed to hook a ring attached to the chest.
As they tried to pull it out, the ring broke off. It is said that this very ring is now affixed to the door of the church in Skógar.
Random Fact of the Episode
There are many more waterfalls behind Skogafoss waterfall. This path is part of the Fimmmvöruháls trail.
Explore Iceland on Your Own
Go Car Rental Iceland 
Go Car Rental Iceland is a local Icelandic car rental company that has great customer service, a large variety of cars and very competitive prices. Use my code Iceland10 to save 10% off the entire cost of your rental car.
I personally use them for when I go on adventures, and I’m so glad to hear that many of my listeners and subscribers are also having a great experience with them. I mentioned in a previous episode that one of my listeners switched to Go Car Rental Iceland from one of the internationally known rental car companies here and she saved $400! That was for a rental during the summer when prices can sometimes double due to demand.
Go Campers – Camper Van Rental in Iceland
If you plan to use a campervan, use my code Iceland7 to save 7% and get two free duvets with your GO Camper van rental. Also, I have a great episode coming up soon about how to choose the right camper van for your travels in Iceland, so keep an eye out for that.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Íslenzkar þjóðsögur og ævintýri – Icelandic Legends and Fairy Tales
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The Hidden Treasure Behind Skógafoss Waterfall – Folklore Friday

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
A Plague Sent Sorcerers int  Hiding
When a plague ravaged Iceland in the 15th century, eighteen sorcerers formed a desperate alliance, fleeing to the remote Vestmannaeyjar Islands (Westman Islands) to escape its deadly grip. They hoped to wait out the plague, but as it finally began to subside, they grew curious. Did anyone still live on the mainland?
They chose one among them, neither the strongest nor the weakest, to go ashore and find out. But they warned him—if he didn’t return by Christmas, they would send a deadly zombie to kill him.
A Post-Apocalyptic Scene in Iceland
The man wandered through the desolate land, finding only abandoned farms and scattered corpses. Hope seemed lost until, at last, he came upon a closed farmhouse. When he knocked, a beautiful young woman answered.
Overcome with relief, she embraced him, believing she was the last living soul. She pleaded with him to stay, and though he was bound by his promise to return, her loneliness moved him. He stayed with her, but as Christmas approached, he knew he had to leave.
Preparing for a Zombie Attack
On Christmas Eve, as he prepared to go, the woman begged him to stay, warning that his journey back would be futile. Time was short, and he realized he wouldn’t make it. Resigned to his fate, he decided to wait for death by her side.
As the night deepened, the man grew sleepy while the woman remained watchful. She kept waking him, asking where the zombie was. But as it drew nearer, his sleep became more profound. Finally, he announced that the zombie had reached the farm and then fell into an unbreakable slumber.
 
The Zombie is Tricked
The woman, however, was ready. As a rust-brown vapor, the zombie seeped into the farmhouse and took human form. When it demanded she move so it could reach its target, she challenged it instead. “Show me how big you can become,” she said. The zombie expanded until it filled the room. Then she asked, “Now, how small can you get?”
The zombie boasted it could shrink to a fly, and as it did, she quickly trapped it in a sheep’s leg bone. When she woke the man, he was astonished to be alive. The woman revealed her cunning trap, mocking the supposed power of the island wizards. They celebrated together, but soon, the man grew anxious again. The wizards, he feared, would create an even stronger zombie to finish him off by New Year’s Eve.
Zombie Danger Averted for the Last Time
On the eve of the new year, the woman led him to a hidden vault beneath a bush. Inside, they found a terrifying figure—her foster father—lying in a dark chamber lit only by a candle in a skull.
After hearing their tale, the foster father took the sheep’s leg, freed the trapped zombie, and ordered it to devour all the wizards’ zombies. The zombie-turned-fly obeyed, growing immense and consuming every undead creature sent from the islands.
With the threat vanquished, the man and the woman returned to her farm. They fell in love, stayed together, and their descendants multiplied, filling the earth with life once more.
Random Fact of the Episode
The Black Death, which devastated much of Europe in the 14th century, somehow spared Iceland. The plague never became a constant presence on the island, unlike in neighboring countries. However, Iceland wasn’t entirely untouched by this deadly disease.
In the 15th century, two severe plague epidemics did hit the country. The first outbreak arrived in 1402 and caused widespread devastation until early spring 1404. Nearly a century later, the second epidemic struck during the winter of 1494-95, once again leaving its mark on Iceland’s history.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Uppvakningur – zombie 
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When a Plague & Zombies Struck in Iceland – Folklore Friday

Recently a horrific accident in an ice cave resulted in a tragedy that has rocked the Icelandic tourism industry. After international news sources picked up this incident, many potential visitors have expressed worry about whether they should ever go into an ice cave.
I’m going to share what has been reported in Iceland, action being taken to prevent potential ice cave tragedies, and when it is safest to go on an ice cave tour.
Before I dive in though, I would like to extend my deepest condolences to the family of the person who lost their life.
An Ice Cave Tour Turns into Tragedy
On Sunday, August 26th, 2024 rescue crews in Southeast Iceland searched for two missing tourists after an ice cave partially collapsed on the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier. The collapse occurred while a group of tourists was inside the cave. One tourist, a US national, was pronounced dead at the scene, while another, his pregnant wife, sustained serious injuries and was flown to a hospital in Reykjavík.
Continuing Search and Rescue Efforts
Following the collapse, around 50-60 rescue workers were deployed to the site, working in rotating shifts to clear away ice by hand due to the inability to bring heavy equipment to the site. Although weather conditions were favorable, the difficult glacier environment posed challenges to the rescue efforts.
Authorities as well as Search & Rescue teams had initially been told that 25 tourists were on the tour but only 23 were accounted for. The assumption was that two people were buried under the ice or stuck in the cave.
After a day of Search & Rescue workers digging in the ice in three groups doing one-hour shifts at each time, the search was called off for the two missing people because they never went on the tour. So basically, the tour company only had 23 people on the tour but initially thought there was 25. 
  
Concerns Over Tour Safety and Regulations
The incident has sparked criticism from experts and officials regarding the safety practices of tour companies offering ice cave tours on Breiðamerkurjökull glacier. Experienced glacier guides had previously raised concerns about the dangers of operating such tours outside the safer winter months (December to March).
A 2017 risk assessment report had already warned against summer ice cave tours due to increased risks, yet tour companies continued these excursions year-round, driven by the growing tourism market.
Government and Park Authorities’ Response
In response to the accident, Vatnajökull National Park temporarily suspended all ice cave tours within its boundaries. The park authorities, along with government officials, expressed deep regret over the incident and acknowledged the failure to enforce earlier safety warnings. A government task force has been established to investigate why these warnings were not heeded and to ensure stricter regulations moving forward.
Call for Stricter Regulations on Ice Cave Tour Operations
The conduct of the tour company involved, Ice Pic Journeys, has been criticized, particularly for its marketing practices. Officials are now calling for a reassessment of the regulatory framework governing ice cave tours, with potential new regulations to prohibit such tours during unsafe periods.
The Icelandic Tourist Board is also considering expanding its oversight to require all tour operators to submit safety plans, rather than relying on a sample. One other important finding is that the area where the accident took place had been advised against going to because of recent glacial movements over that summer that could make dangerous conditions.
  
National Park and Government Actions
Our current Prime Minister and other government officials have emphasized the need to understand the regulatory failures that led to the tragedy.


				“At first glance, it seems we have a decent regulatory framework concerning insurance, education, safety measures, and similar matters. The national park issues the permits, and I find it concerning that permits were issued during a time when the risk assessment indicated that the situation was not without danger.”			
 Iceland’s Prime Minister as reported by Iceland Review

The government is focusing on ensuring that appropriate safety measures are in place to prevent similar incidents in the future. The task force’s findings and recommendations are expected to influence new regulations, likely leading to the suspension of summer ice cave tours permanently.
Safest Time to Go on an Ice Cave Tour in Iceland
The Safest time to go on an Ice Cave tour is from December to March, which is winter in Iceland and the ice caves are much more stable. It is important to remember that conditions can change, and it is possible for tours to be cancelled due to various reasons, like weather or the cave changing a lot. I know some people are wondering about other ice caves in places other than Vatnajökull in southeast. Katla Ice Cave and Into the Glacier come to mind.
Honestly, that is a tough one for me to answer because this incident made me question if those are ok as well. I am not saying they are not ok. However, I think it is normal to have some questions about what is being done differently than in this situation to prevent a tragic accident. Because I am not a glacier guide, I rely on expert guides to know the conditions of the glaciers.
If you are planning to take an ice cave tour outside of the winter season, I highly recommend asking the tour company about the safety plans they have in place and if the conditions are ok for this type of tour.
  
Glacier Hike vs Ice Cave Tours
Glacier hikes are normally done all year long. Walking on a glacier as opposed to going inside of an ice cave that is located on a glacier are different experiences. They both have risks and require a glacier guide but glacier hikes are safe to do all year long.
Random Fact of the Episode
There is a man-made ice cave in Perlan, a museum and exhibition space in Reykjavík, that you can visit anytime of the year if you want to experience an ice cave safely in the off season for natural ice caves.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Íshellir – Ice cave
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Why Iceland Has Suspended Ice Cave Tours in Vatnajökull National Park

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
A Tale of How a Canyon is named after a Giantess
Kolugljúfur Canyon gets its name from the legendary giantess Kola, who made her home on a ledge within the gorge. According to local folklore, Kola was quite resourceful, often catching salmon straight from the river with her bare hands for breakfast.
On occasion, she would cook her catch in the Koluketill Kettle, a nearby natural hot spring, to enjoy a warm meal later in the day. Kola’s connection to this place was deeply practical—she appreciated the abundant salmon and the convenient hot spring rather than the scenic beauty that draws visitors today.
Random Fact of the Episode
Kolugljúfur Canyon, located in the north of Iceland, is a hidden gem that showcases the raw beauty of Icelandic nature. This stunning canyon, approximately one kilometer long and up to 50 meters deep, was carved out by the Víðidalsá River over millennia. It is home to the spectacular Kolufossar Waterfalls, a series of cascades that tumble through the gorge, creating a breathtaking natural spectacle.
Despite its beauty, Kolugljúfur remains off the beaten path, offering visitors a peaceful and uncrowded experience. Two main hiking trails allow for exploration of the canyon’s depths or a more leisurely stroll along the rim, providing stunning views at every turn. The area is also rich in birdlife and other fauna, adding to its appeal as a destination for nature enthusiasts.
Drive Yourself Around Iceland & Save
I want to give a shout-out to our amazing sponsors, Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers.
I actually use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.
They’ve also given me a link so you can save 7% on your rental, plus get a couple of really useful extras.
With Go Car Rental, you’ll save 7% and get free 4G WiFi with your rental.
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You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsicelandfor the discounts.
Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.
For Go Car:When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added.
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And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Kolugljúfur is broken down into two words. Kola is the name of the giantess and means coal. While gljúfur means canyon.
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An Icelandic Canyon Named After a Giantess – Folklore Friday

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
An Icelandic Saga that Mentions the Lyngbakur
The Saga of Örvar-Oddur from the 13th or 14th century mentions the Lyngbakur. In part of the saga, Oddur is seeing vengeance against Ögmundur Flóki (sometimes referred to as Ögmundur Eyþjófsbani or “Eythjof’s-killer”) for the murder of his blood-brother Þórður.
To make it safely to Ögmundr Flóki’s location, Oddur was guided by his half-giant son, Vignir. Oddur and his crew set sail towards a fjord in Helluland where Ögmundur was rumored to be hiding. Along the way, they encountered two enormous sea creatures that were so large they appeared as islands.
Two Sea Monsters that Look Like Islands
In the saga, Vignir said, “These were two sea monsters, one called Hafgúfa and the other Lyngbakur. Hafgúfa is the largest creature in the entire ocean. It devours men, ships, whales, and anything else nearby. It stays submerged for days before surfacing, and when it does, it remains on the surface for at least one tide.”
Five men had mistakenly disembarked on what they believed was an island, only to be dragged into the sea when Lyngbakur dove beneath the waves, leading to their deaths. Despite this, the group managed to navigate through the jaws of Hafgúfa, the other monster that Ögmundur had magically summoned to stop them.
Lean More About Sea Monsters Spotted in Iceland
The book “Meeting with the Monsters” is a wonderful resource if you want to learn more about sea monsters in Iceland.
Random Fact of the Episode
The lyngbakur is said to eat every three years when it swallows everything in its path, including birds, fish and any other life in the sea.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Lyngbakur – Heather back
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A Massive Sea Monster Disguised as an Island – Folklore Friday

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
A Tyrant Farm Owner
Long ago, in the northern reaches of Iceland, there was a farmstead called Skíðastaðir, where a wealthy farmer ruled with an iron fist. His wealth was immense, and he had many laborers working tirelessly, both summer and winter. The farmer was known for his strict ways, especially during the haymaking season. He demanded that the women servants cook meals only on Sundays, leaving the other days for hard labor in the fields. Church was out of the question, and reading the bible was forbidden. His farm was a place of toil, not of worship.
A Strange & Deadly Disaster
One Sunday morning, something strange happened. A mysterious man, dressed in white and holding a staff, was seen by many in the area. He was walking northwards over Vansdalsfjall, a mountain that loomed above Skíðastaðir. The man stopped at the top of the mountain, looked down upon the farm, and struck the earth with his staff. 
Suddenly, the ground began to shake, and a massive landslide started to rumble down the slope, growing larger and more terrifying as it descended. This unstoppable force crashed into the farmhouse, leaving nothing but destruction in its wake. All who lived there perished, except for one young girl who had, by some twist of fate, been away from the farmhouse at that very moment.
A Young & Kind Woman Working on the Farm
This girl had lived at Skíðastaðir for a long time, but her heart was heavy with sorrow. She was deeply troubled by the farmer’s godlessness, yet she remained kind and dutiful, earning the affection of her masters and fellow workers alike.
She often cooked on holy days without complaint, though her only reward was being allowed to scrape the pots clean. The winter before the landslide was one of the harshest anyone could remember. People and animals alike were starving, but the wealthy farmer refused to share his abundance, turning away those who came to him in desperate need.
The girl, however, could not bear to see others suffer. She would give what little she could to the poor and hungry, even offering them the scrapings from the pots. The winter was cruel to the animals too, and they died in great numbers, their bodies piling up as the cold tightened its grip.
Ravens gathered at the farms, searching for any scraps that might be thrown out. Moved by their plight, the girl threw out whatever she could from the kitchen. One raven, in particular, became fond of her, following her wherever she went outside. He was always there, waiting for her to share a morsel.
How the Raven Saved the Young Woman
As spring turned to summer, the raven continued his visits, arriving early each morning at Skíðastaðir. The girl, with her kind heart, always saved a bit of food for him. On the fateful Sunday morning when the landslide occurred, she had risen early to cook porridge.
Eager to feed her raven friend, she hurried to scrape the pot before he arrived. But when she went outside, the raven was acting strangely. He wouldn’t touch the food she offered, instead fluttering around anxiously and then flying a short distance away into the field.
Puzzled, the girl followed him, determined to find out what was wrong. The raven flew a little farther each time she approached, leading her further and further from the farmhouse. She didn’t understand why he was behaving this way, but she trusted him and kept following.
Eventually, they had traveled some distance south of the homefield when the girl decided it was time to turn back.Just then, she heard a terrifying roar coming from the mountain. She turned to see the landslide crashing down, sweeping away the farmhouse and everything in its path.
The realization struck her like a bolt of lightning—the raven had saved her life. Overcome with gratitude, she thanked God with all her heart for sending this wise and faithful bird to lead her to safety.
Random fact of the Episode
According to the Icelandic Institute of Natural History’s website


				“The number of nesting pairs is said to be around 2,500, while the autumn population is estimated at 12-15,000 individuals. Ravens nest all over the northern hemisphere.
A monogamous bird, the raven remains loyal to its mate for the whole of its life, using the same nesting site year after year. Although usually found in cliffs, nests also occur in man-made structures and trees. Nesting begins in mid-April, and four to six eggs are the norm. The young develop slowly, but can fly properly by about five weeks of age, normally in the latter half of June, and abandon their parents in July. The oldest known wild raven reached the age of 2.
Many folktales and reports exist about ravens, as well as numerous verses and poems. However, the attitude of Icelanders towards ravens is mixed. Whereas the original heathen settlers looked up to the raven as a symbol of wisdom and prophecy, their Christian descendents often saw the raven as a sign of evil: a harbinger of death or an associate of magicians and wrongdoers. On the other hand, Icelandic folktales also speak of the kindness of the raven and the sagas of how it helped the first settlers.”
			

Icelandic Word of the Episode
Raven – krummi eða hrafn
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The Raven Protector – Folklore Friday

This is the fourth episode for my segment “Ask Jewells Anything About Iceland”. Thank you to everyone who sent in questions. If you would like to submit a question, please use this link.
You can check out previous episodes on Ask Jewells Anything About Iceland here.
If you have questions that are specifically for an upcoming trip and getting the answer is time-sensitive, feel free to book a one-hour private video trip planning call with me.
1.	Anne C. said:
“Have you been to Faroe Islands? Is it an easy enough day trip or overnight or weekend from Iceland? What are logistics and approx costs/fees associated? Best time of year?”

Flights from Reykjavik, Edinburgh, and Oslo to the Faroe Islands with Atlantic Airways are only one hour long,
The Faroe Islands can also be reached by ferry from Iceland and Denmark. Slow travel at its best! This service is operated by a Faroese company, Smyril Line.
Icelandair flights are currently 5-6 times a week from May to October. The price starts at $206 if departing from Reykjavík
Check out Visit Faroe Islands for more information.
2.	Michael F. said:
“We are returning to Iceland for the 2nd time in September. Our flight gets in early and we saw some hotels close to the airport offer a nap-n-go option. We were hoping to catch a nap before driving to Hveragerdi. Is this something you would recommend?”

I think the Nap and Go program is a great option to get some rest before heading out on the road. It seems that you need to contact the hotels for the room rates because they are not on their websites.
3.	Scott H. said:
“What is it like taking a car on a ferry? To visit the Westman Islands. We are staying overnight there and I would like to have my luggage and other things with us while we are there.”

Taking the ferry to the Westman Islands has been a very positive experience for me. I think the best route is when you depart from Landeyjahöfn on mainland Iceland and going to Heimaey. You can book you car as part of your ferry ticket, which makes getting around the island even easier.
4.	Ana C. said:
“Hi Jewells! How was it for you experiencing winter time in Iceland for the first years? Was it too hard? What was the most difficult part? Do people there change habbits to enjoy the little daylight they can while working for instance (like longer lunch breaks)? What changes in the daily life ? Ended up being a lot of questions 😉 Takk!

I talk a lot about the coping mechanisms I have used to thrive, and not just survive, winter in Iceland in this video.
5.	Ana C. said:
“What is the most difficult part for you about learning Icelandic? Vocabulary itself, conjugation, verbs? ”

Icelandic has several things that make it difficult. Pronunciation, declensions, conjugations, and some exceptions to rules can trip anyone up. This includes Icelanders. I think my avoidance of saying something wrong due to the four cases in which words can decline or conjugating verbs was more of an issue than saying words properly.
For many language learners that have an accent when they speak Icelandic, that can be a deterrent in having Icelanders understanding what you are saying because most Icelanders are not accustomed to hearing an accent when they speak Icelandic.
6.	Madeline M said:
“This isn’t exactly about Iceland, but…can you give us the backstory of your theme music?”

The selection of my theme song was based on me wanting to play music that gave you the vibe of taking a road trip or feeling nostalgic.
It would have been nice to have a local Icelandic band create the sound but I was DIYing everything so there was not a lot of money to put into this. After many hours of checking out music on a royalty free music site, I knew I had found the right song.
7.	Shelley D. said:
Do you have resources for lodging in Iceland?

Yes, I have many lodging recommendations on My Iceland Map.
8.	Christine said:
“Thank you for all the great advice and inspiration! What experiences or sites do you suggest for young travelers? (Ours specifically is 5 years old.) ”

My absolute pleasure! Iceland is very child friendly. There are many playgrounds, museums for younger people, local pools, and being out in nature, like doing the Golden Circle or driving around the country. Some museums that families love to take their kids are Perlan, The Lava Show, Whale of Iceland, and the Árbæjarsafn Open Air Museum.
9.	Christine said:
“The reverse of my other question: what sites do you definitely suggest parents of kids avoid? Thank you!”

Glacier hikes, zip-lining or very strenuous hikes are the activities I do not recommend for young children.
10.	Laura G. said:
“I am going to Iceland in August with my boys 5&8. Can you recommend a public hot spring or pool in Vik and Hofn? ”

The swimming pool in Vík – https://sundlaugar.is/en/sundlaugasafn/vik/
Höfn swimming pool – https://www.south.is/en/service/hofn-swimming-pool
11.	Katie S. said:
“Hi Jewells. My husband, teenage son, and I are coming to Iceland at the beginning of July. I hope you get to this before then! I heard on a recent episode that you are 100% plant based. My husband and I are almost 100% vegetarian and are curious about the variety and availability of vegetarian/vegan dishes in Iceland. Our tour company sent us a Restaurant Guide Book, but most things that are highlighted are meat/seafood based. Also, our son is a typical American teen (we’re from upstate New York), who tends to be a bit picky. Are there good options for someone who isn’t as adventurous (pizza, burgers, etc.)?”

Yes, Dominos, Black Box Pizza, tons of burger places like 2 Guys, Tommi’s Burger Joint, Dirty Burgers and Ribs, Íslenska Hamborgarafabrikkan, and Yuzu Burger. There is also always the famous Icelandic hot dog which can be found downtown and at pretty much any gas station in the country.
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Ask Jewells Anything About Iceland – Response Episode 5

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
The Lazy Farmer’s Wife
Many centuries ago, a hard working farmer that lived below the Eyjafjöll mountains in South Iceland married a young woman. To his surprise and dismay, he found out after their marriage that his new wife was kind of lazy and lacking motivation to do much.
Because they lived on a farm and there were many chores to be done, it bothered the farmer that his wife was not pitching in. In the fall of that year, the farmer gave his wife a large quantity of wool to weave into clothing. As the winter approached and went fully engulfed the area, the farmer noticed that his wife had yet to touch the wool.
A Strange Woman Provides a Solution
One day while the farmer was away, a rather tall and large woman came to the farmer’s wife and asked for a favor. While it is not specified what the favor was, the farmer’s wife immediately asked the woman for something in return. The large woman said sure and inquired about what the farmer’s wife wanted.
The farmer’s wife requested that the large woman weave the wool into clothing. Without skipping a beat, the large woman said no problem, swung the wool over her shoulder and said she will return with the clothing by the first day of summer. The farmer’s wife asked what the woman wanted as payment for the work. Well, the large woman thought about it and said, if you can guess correctly what my name is then we will be even. She then vanished into the countryside.
Of course, the farmer noticed that the wool was gone and asked his wife what happened to it. She replied that it was none of his business and that he will have his wool clothes by the first day of summer. While he wasn’t happy about this answer, he shrugged it off and went on about his work.
The Lazy Wife Starts to Worry
As the end of winter approached, the farmer’s wife grew more worried that the large woman would return and that she wouldn’t be able to guess her name. The anxiety within the farmer’s wife grew so much that she could hardly get out of bed and was melancholy. The farmer noticed this and asked her what is wrong. Finally, she broke down and told her husband the whole story. After hearing the story, the farmer was frightened that his wife had encountered a troll-wife that would kidnap his wife if she didn’t guess the name correctly.
As fate would have it, the farmer was walking in a valley one day and heard a strange voice singing. He was able to keep himself hidden but saw that it was a large troll like woman weaving wool and singing “Hi ho, hi ho, the farmer’s wife doesn’t know my name. Gilitrutt’s my name. Gilitrutt’s my name. Hi, ho, hi, ho.”
The farmer ran back to his house and wrote the name down. 
The Troll Returns 
Time continued to pass and the last day of winter was upon them. The farmer asked his wife if she knew the name of the woman that helped her and she said no in a depressed tone because she knew that meant she was done for. Finally, the farmer told her what had happened and that he had written the name of the troll down. He gave her the note and said to say it to the troll when she arrived.
On the morning of the first day of summer, it seemed that no one was around. The wife lay in bed frightened. All of a sudden, she heard heavy foot steps and the large troll woman came into the house with the sack of woolen clothing. She immediately demanded for the farmer’s wife to say her name.
The farmer’s wife was trembling but she asked if the troll’s name was Ása. The troll laughed and said no. Then she asked if it was Signý. The troll was giddy with joy because she felt confident that the farmer’s wife would never get it right but said she was willing to give her one more chance to answer. At last, the farmer’s wife said “Gilitrutt”. At the sound of her name, the troll screamed with horror and ran away. She was never seen or heard from again.
Random Fact of the Episode
Icelandic trolls are said to live in uninhabitable places, like rocky mountains and the highlands. They have been known to lure humans into caves with magic or by capturing them.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Tröllskessa – troll woman – big, ugly woman with an attitude
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The Troll Woman & The Lazy Wife – Folklore Friday

At the summit of Hólmaháls, just above the road, lies the grave mound of a Völva, or prophetess, who has been believed to protect Reyðarfjörður and Eskifjörður from sea attacks for centuries.

						Want to hear more Icelandic Folklore Stories?					
						This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.

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How the Prophetess Protects the Fjord
According to legend, the prophetess lived in Sómastaðir in the 17th century. Before her death, she requested to be buried in a location that offered the best view of Reyðarfjörður. She claimed that as long as her bones remained undisturbed, the fjords of Eskifjörður and Reyðarfjörður would be safe from maritime attacks.
Later, when Algerian Turks attempted to invade the East Fjords, intending to sail into Reyðarfjörður and plunder the area, they encountered an impenetrable fog at the fjord’s entrance, which forced them to retreat.
The legend further states that as long as stones are regularly added to the prophetess’ grave, the fjords will remain protected from disaster.
Random Fact of the Episode
Reyðarfjörður’s strategic location and harbor conditions played a role in WWII because it was the second-largest of the Allied bases in Iceland during the war. There is a WWII museum in this fjord.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Völva – prophetess
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The Eastfjord’s Prophetess – Folklore Friday

In the mystic landscapes of Iceland, the northern lights weave tales as ancient as the glaciers. According to some Icelandic folklore, these shimmering lights are more than just natural phenomena.
This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
Folklore stories of the Northern Lights in Iceland
They are believed to be the restless spirits of the deceased, particularly those who have yet to find their final resting place. As the auroras dance across the sky, it’s thought that these spirits are performing a celestial ballet, painting the heavens with their ethereal colors.
Another enchanting legend tells of an arctic fox with a tail as swift as the wind. As this fox dashes across the snow-covered wilderness, its sweeping tail brushes against the icy terrain, causing the northern lights to ignite the sky. The vibrant glow of the auroras is said to mirror the fox’s fur, casting a luminous reflection on the snow and ice below.
The belief in dancing elves adds another layer of magic to the northern lights. In the quiet of the Icelandic night, when the sky comes alive with the auroras, it is said that elves and hidden people, known as Huldufólk, emerge from their secret abodes. These supernatural beings celebrate under the bright auroras, their joyous dances lighting up the night.
Some Icelanders have even claimed to hear faint strains of music and laughter accompanying the lights, a testament to the deep-rooted belief in the connection between the elves and the northern lights.
The Less Appealing Stories of the Northern Lights in Iceland
But not all tales of the northern lights are filled with joy. In times past, their appearance was often seen as a harbinger of bad weather or impending storms. The luminous displays in the sky were sometimes viewed with apprehension, signaling that nature’s fury was soon to be unleashed.
Yet, amidst these varied beliefs, the northern lights were also seen as a beacon of hope and good fortune. To witness the auroras was considered a stroke of luck, especially for those on the brink of a journey or a significant life event. The lights served as a celestial blessing, promising good luck and safe passage.
In the end, the northern lights are more than just a natural spectacle in Icelandic folklore. They are a tapestry of stories, each thread woven with the imagination and beliefs of a people deeply connected to the natural world around them. Whether seen as the spirits of the dead, the brush of a fox’s tail, the dance of elves, a warning of storms, or a sign of good fortune, the auroras continue to captivate and inspire, lighting up the skies and the hearts of all who behold them.
Random Fact of the Episode
The Northern Lights have been found to make a sound. According to a study from a Finnish researcher Unto K. Laine, the colorful displays of the Northern Lights produced a crackling sound which related to the electromagnetic renounces of the Earth! ⁠
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Norðurljós – Northern Lights
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The Lore Behind the Northern Lights in Iceland – Folklore Friday

Whether you’re part of the LGBTQ+ community or an ally, visiting Iceland during Pride is an unforgettable experience. This guide will delve into why you should consider timing your visit to coincide with Reykjavík Pride, what events to look forward to, and what else you can enjoy in Iceland during August.
Why Visit Iceland During Pride in Reykjavík?
Reykjavík Pride, or “Hinsegin Dagar” in Icelandic, is a week-long festival held every August that celebrates the LGBTQ+ community. This event is not just a parade but a full-fledged festival filled with various activities that cater to all ages and interests. Here are several reasons why visiting during Pride is a fantastic idea:
  
Inclusivity and Celebration
Reykjavík Pride is a testament to Iceland’s progressive and inclusive society. The country is known for its acceptance and support of LGBTQ+ rights, being one of the first countries to legalize same-sex marriage in 2010. The Pride festivities reflect this spirit of inclusivity, making everyone feel welcome and celebrated.
A Vibrant Parade in Downtown Reykjavík
The highlight of Reykjavík Pride is undoubtedly the parade. Held on the second Saturday of August, the parade attracts thousands of locals and visitors who line the streets to watch the colorful and joyous procession.
Expect to see an array of floats, performers, and enthusiastic participants showcasing their support for the LGBTQ+ community. The parade route winds through downtown Reykjavík, making it accessible and easy to join in on the fun. It starts at Hallgrímskirkja church and ends at Hljómskálagarðurinn for a big concert and speeches.
  
Family-Friendly Events
Reykjavík Pride is not just for adults; it’s a family-friendly event with activities for all ages. There are special events designed for children, such as the Family Rainbow Festival, which includes face painting, games, and entertainment for the little ones. This inclusive approach ensures that everyone, regardless of age, can participate in the celebrations.
Cultural and Educational Programs
In addition to the parade, Reykjavík Pride offers a variety of cultural and educational events. These include film screenings, panel discussions, art exhibitions, and workshops that delve into LGBTQ+ issues and history. These programs provide a deeper understanding of the community’s struggles and triumphs, making the festival both fun and enlightening.
Parties and Concerts
For those looking to party, Reykjavík Pride doesn’t disappoint. The week is packed with concerts, club nights, and after-parties that feature local and international artists. The Pride Opening Party and the Official Pride Dance are particularly popular, offering a chance to dance the night away with new friends. Kiki’s Queer bar downtown is a great place to party but there are plenty of other bars to celebrate during this time.
What Else to Do in Iceland in August
While Reykjavík Pride is a significant draw, there’s plenty more to explore in Iceland during August. Here are some activities and sights you shouldn’t miss:
  
Explore Reykjavík
The capital city, Reykjavík, is a hub of culture and history. Take a stroll down Laugavegur, the main shopping street, where you can find unique boutiques, cafes, and street art. Visit the iconic Hallgrímskirkja church, which offers panoramic views of the city from its tower. Don’t forget to check out the Harpa Concert Hall and the Sun Voyager sculpture along the waterfront.
Experience Icelandic Nature
Iceland’s natural beauty is breathtaking, and August is the perfect time to experience it. The weather is mild, and the days are long, providing ample time for outdoor adventures. Here are a few must-see natural wonders:

Golden Circle: This popular route includes the stunning Þingvellir National Park, the geysers at Haukadalur, and the majestic Gullfoss waterfall. Each stop offers unique geological and historical insights.
South Coast: Drive along the south coast to witness black sand beaches, towering waterfalls like Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, the dramatic Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, and gorgeous Diamond Beach.
Snæfellsnes Peninsula: Known as “Iceland in Miniature,” this region offers diverse landscapes, including the Snæfellsjökull glacier, charming fishing villages, and the iconic Kirkjufell mountain.

  
Soak in Hot Springs
Iceland is famous for its geothermal activity, and there’s no better way to relax than in a hot spring. The Blue Lagoon near Reykjavík is world-renowned, but there are many other lesser-known spots worth visiting:

Secret Lagoon: Located in the Golden Circle area, this natural hot spring offers a more rustic and authentic experience.
Mývatn Nature Baths: In the north of Iceland, these baths provide stunning views of the surrounding volcanic landscape.
Reykjadalur Hot Springs: A short hike from the town of Hveragerði takes you to a valley with a hot river where you can bathe.
Sky Lagoon
Hvammsvík
The Blue Lagoon

Adventure Activities
For thrill-seekers, August in Iceland offers numerous adventure activities:

Glacier Hiking and Ice Climbing: Venture onto one of Iceland’s many glaciers with a guided tour. The blue ice and crevasses make for an exhilarating experience.
Whale Watching: August is a great time for whale watching, with tours departing from various locations, including Reykjavík and Húsavík.
Horseback Riding: Explore the Icelandic countryside on the back of an Icelandic horse, known for its unique gait called the tölt.
The Icelandic Highlands

  
Get Access to All the Best Places Around the Country with My Iceland Map
This and many other awesome places around Iceland are on My Iceland Map. It was created for those who want to pick out places and hidden gems around Iceland to make up their own itinerary or add to one that they already created.
With full access, you get over 290 places that I recommend in Iceland, along with four itineraries to use for planning your trip. Those itineraries include a 10-day Ring Road trip, a 3-day South Iceland trip, The Famous Golden Circle and a Reykjanes Peninsula Day Trip.
A one-time purchase gives you lifetime access, which includes any updates I make to the map.
Here is a link to my Iceland map: rexby.com/jewells/Iceland.
Festivals and Events During Pride in Reykjavik
Apart from Reykjavík Pride, August hosts several other festivals and events:

Culture Night (Menningarnótt): Held in Reykjavík, this event features concerts, art exhibitions, street performances, and fireworks.
Reykjavík Marathon: Coinciding with Culture Night, this marathon attracts runners from around the world.

Enjoy the Midnight Sun
While the midnight sun starts to wane in August, you still get extended daylight hours. This means more time to explore and less need to rush your activities. The long evenings are perfect for photography, with the golden hour lasting much longer than usual.
  
Practical Tips for Visiting Iceland During Pride

Accommodation: August is a busy month in Iceland, so book your accommodation well in advance, especially if you plan to stay in Reykjavík during Pride.
Transport: Renting a car is the best way to explore Iceland’s natural wonders at your own pace. However, Reykjavík has excellent public transport, and many tour operators offer excursions to popular sites.
Weather: Icelandic weather can be unpredictable. Pack layers, waterproof clothing, and sturdy footwear to stay comfortable.
Safety: Iceland is one of the safest countries in the world, but always follow local guidelines, especially when exploring nature. Stick to marked paths and heed weather warnings.

Reykjavík Pride is more than just a parade; it’s a celebration of diversity, love, and acceptance. Visiting Iceland during this time offers a unique opportunity to experience the country’s vibrant culture and stunning landscapes while participating in one of the most inclusive festivals in the world.
From family-friendly events to adventurous excursions, August in Iceland has something for everyone. So pack your bags, join the festivities, and create unforgettable memories in the land of fire and ice.
Random Fact of the Episode
Iceland has had an openly gay prime minister. It was also among the first countries in the world to legalize same-sex marriage and adoption rights. Since 1999, Iceland has been celebrating Pride and some years have seen up to 100,000 attendees.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Hinsegin Dagar – Queer Days
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Your Complete Guide to Celebrate Pride in Reykjavík, Iceland

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
Bárður’s Background
Bárður’s mother was human, while his father was half giant (risi) and half troll. He was raised by Dofri, the mountain-dweller of Dovrefjell in Nroway. With his first wife, Flaumgerður, Dofri’s daughter (also half-human), Bárður had three tall, beautiful daughters: Helga, Þordís, and Guðrún. His second wife, Herþrúðr, was human, and together they had six more daughters.
Where Bárður Settles Down in Iceland
Bárður, along with his wife and daughters, emigrated to Iceland, landing at a lagoon on the southern shore of Snæfellsnes, which they named Djúpalón. He established a farm there, called Laugarbrekka. Bárður’s half-brother, Þorkell, born from their mother’s second marriage to a jötunn, lived at Arnarstapi and had two sons, Rauðfeldur (Red-cloak) and Sölvi.
The sons of Þorkell and the daughters of Bárður often played together. One day, Rauðfeldur pushed Helga out to sea on an iceberg during pack ice along the shore. She drifted safely to Greenland and found a lover there, but Bárður was enraged. He pushed Rauðfeldur into the Rauðfeldsgjá ravine and threw Sölvi off the high cliff Sölvahamar, east of Arnarstapi. In the ensuing fight, Bárður broke Þorkell’s leg, leading Þorkell to move away from the district.
Bárður Seeks Isolation After the Fight
Following these events, Bárður gave away his land and disappeared into the Snæfellsjökull ice cap, becoming known as Bárður Snæfellsás, the “guardian spirit” of Snæfell. The people of the peninsula revered him, calling on him in times of difficulty, and many found genuine help in him. He wandered the region in a grey cowl, with a walrus-hide rope and a cleft staff with a long, thick gaff for walking on glaciers.
Bárður brought Helga back from Greenland, but she missed her lover and couldn’t bear to stay with her father. When Ingjald of Ingjaldshvoll was trapped at a dangerous fishing spot by a troll-woman and a mysterious fisherman named Grímur (thought to be Thor), Bárður rowed out alone to rescue him. Eventually, Bárður and Þorkell reconciled and lived together for some time.
Random Fact of the Episode
Rauðfeldsgjá on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is a beautiful and fun ravine to explore.
This and many other awesome places around Iceland are on My Iceland Map. It was created for those who want to pick out places and hidden gems around Iceland to make up their own itinerary or add to one that they already created.
With full access, you get over 290 places that I recommend in Iceland, along with four itineraries to use for planning your trip. Those itineraries include a 10-day Ring Road trip, a 3-day South Iceland trip, The Famous Golden Circle and a Reykjanes Peninsula Day Trip.
A one-time purchase gives you lifetime access, which includes any updates I make to the map.
Here is a link to my Iceland map: rexby.com/jewells/Iceland.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Rauðfeldsgjá – Red-Cloak Rift
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Bárður The Guardian of Iceland’s Snæfellsnes Peninsula – Folklore Friday

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
Back in the year 1000 AD Þorgeir, the Law Speaker in Althingi or Icelandic Parliament, made the decision that Iceland would become a Christian nation. This was a huge decision for him to make considering that he was Pagan that believed in the Old Norse Gods.
When he returned back home to the north as a Christian, his first order of business was to get rid of the Pagan idols from his temple. It is said that he took all of the idols and tossed them into a waterfall. According to the story, the waterfall came to be known as Goðafoss or “Waterfall of the Gods“ or waterfall of the Goði (chieftain).
While it is true that Iceland became a Christian nation in the year 1,000, I have not heard of any concrete evidence that Þorgeir threw the idols into the waterfall.
Go Car Rental Iceland & Go Campers
I want to give a shout-out to our amazing sponsors, Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers.
I actually use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.
They’ve also given me a link so you can save 7% on your rental, plus get a couple of really useful extras.
With Go Car Rental, you’ll save 7% and get free 4G WiFi with your rental.
With Go Campers, you’ll save 7% and get a free sleeping bag included.
You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsicelandfor the discounts.
Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.
For Go Car:When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added.
For Go Campers:Choose a sleeping bag under the “Sleeping” section, and same thing, the total price won’t increase.
And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.
Random Fact of the Episode
During World War II, the MS Goðafoss, an Icelandic ship named after the waterfall, was sunk by a German U-Boat. It was transporting both freight and passengers, so the result was that many people lost their lives.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Lögsögumaður – law speaker
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The Icelandic Waterfall of the Gods – Folklore Friday

The last 8 years have been a whirlwind for me but I have loved the journey. This is a relatively short episode but I thought it would be nice to give some insight into my life since I moved in 2016.
I am so proud of how much the podcast has grown and I share a bit of that in the episode! Thank you to everyone that has been listening, sharing, and providing feedback on the podcast and my videos on social media, like YouTube, TikTok, Instagram, and Facebook. I have so much fun content to share in the near future.
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My Life After Being in Iceland for 8 Years

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
Who are Iceland’s Ghost Children?
with what’s known as a child ghost.
The tale begins when a maid at a local farm gives birth to an unwanted baby. During Iceland’s pagan era, it was common to abandon such children in the wilderness. This harsh and unusual choice was seen as logical for young mothers hoping to avoid judgement and punishment from the local community.
Shortly after this terrible act, the nearby village planned to hold a celebration filled with dancing and singing, known as Vikivaki. The maid was invited but declined because she didn’t have suitable clothes.
On the day of the Vikivaki, the maid was tending to her owner’s sheep with another woman. She lamented her lack of clothes, complaining openly. At that moment, a soft voice sang out to her from beneath the wall of the sheep pen:
“Dear mother, in a pen, a pen, do not worry about it because, because I’ll lend you my rag to dance in and dance in.”
Realizing it was her dead child mocking her from the darkness, the maid was struck with terror. She was haunted by the experience for the rest of her life and was considered insane, tormented by an act that, unfortunately, was not uncommon in heathen Iceland.
Random Fact of the Episode
Vikivaki is one of the most well-known traditional folk dances in Iceland. It is a type of ring dance that requires the dancer’s body to remain quite stiff and has been performed throughout the Nordic regions since the Middle Ages. The dance is performed by both men and women and is relatively easy with simple steps. Vikivaki refers to both the dance and the accompanying music.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Útbúður means an infant child left outside to die.
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Iceland’s Tragic Ghost Children – Folklore Friday

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
What is a Hot Spring Bird?
This is a relatively short folklore story but is one that might interest anyone who plans to visit or take a dip into a hot spring while in Iceland. There is a type of bird that is said to lurk around hot springs. Over the centuries the description has been that the birds are the size of small ducks. They have mostly dark feathers with some white surrounding their eyes. They have only been spotted around hot springs, which might not seem weird.
However, the catch is that when they are approached, they dive into the boiling hot water and might not be seen again. They have been spotted in the Hveragerði region where people often go on the Reykjadalur hot spring hike.
Well, these reports are from people back in the day but it is possible that visitors are encountering them but don´t know who they are seeing. There have also been sightings of these birds flying out of hot springs. It is a bit shocking to see a bird emerging from a bubbling hot spring. Just something for you to keep your eyes open for when you visit a hot spring in this country.
Random Fact of the Episode
According to the book “Meeting with the Monsters”, there are about 700 hot springs and pools mentioned in a document from 1910 about Iceland.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Hverafuglar – hot spring bird
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The Mysterious Hot Spring Bird – Folklore Friday

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
Who Was Sæmundur the Learned?
Back in the 1100s, Sæmundur Sigfusson was the pastor at the well known ancient manor of Oddi in South Iceland. What was different about Sæmundur is that he had an interesting past with the Devil. It is said that Sæmundur was considered to be wise and he honed his wisdom in many ways over the years. He supposedly attended the Sorbonne in Paris, which has been referred to as the “Black School” in Icelandic because it had a reputation of teaching “black” or dark arts.
In this folklore story I am sharing a series of encounters that Sæmundur had with the Devil. At the Black School that Sæmundur attended, the Devil himself was the headmaster. One strange custom after the students graduated was that the Devil would keep the last student to leave.
To the relief of the other students, Sæmundur volunteered to be the last one to leave. That day Sæmundur was wearing a big coat. When he was walking out the door, the Devil grabbed him and said “You are mine”. However, Sæmundur slipped out of the big coat that the Devil was holding and was able to escape.
How Sæmundur Continued to Outsmart the Devil
After leaving the school, Sæmundur became even more adept at outsmarting the Devil. He even went as far as to get the Devil to do various tasks for him. In fact, Sæmundur was able to get the pastorship for Oddi because he tricked the Devil into helping him.
When Sæmundur heard that the position was available he was abroad. He knew that many others were applying for the job so he had to get there as quickly as he could. After thinking about what he could do, Sæmundur called upon the Devil and told him that if the Devil could swim him to Iceland without wetting my gown, I will be at your mercy.
The Devil took Sæmundur at his word and turned into a seal to take him over to Iceland. Most of the way, Sæmundur was reading the book of Psalms. As they approached the shore of Iceland, Sæmundur hit the seal on the head, which caused it to sink under water. He got wet and then swam the rest of the way to shore. Because he got wet, the deal was off and Sæmundur could go on to become the pastor of Oddi.
There are many more stories about Sæmundur and this is just a taste of his interactions with the Devil
Random Fact of the Episode
Sæmundur supposedly wrote the history of Norwegian kings in Latin but it is said to be lost. The one way that we seem to know that Sæmundur wrote things is because he has been referenced by Snorri Sturluson.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Sæmundur fróði – Sæmundur the learned
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Sæmundur the Wise Outsmarts the Devil – Folklore Friday

The Icelandic horse is a breed like no other, with a history that is deeply intertwined with the island nation itself. Brought to Iceland by Norse settlers in the 9th and 10th centuries, these horses have remained a pure breed for over a thousand years.
The isolation of Iceland has played a significant role in maintaining the purity of the Icelandic horse. No other horses have been allowed into the country since the original stock arrived, and once an Icelandic horse leaves the island, it can never return. This strict regulation ensures the breed remains free from diseases and maintains its unique characteristics.
Five Fascinating Facts About Icelandic Horses
  

Pure Breed Lineage: As mentioned, Icelandic horses are direct descendants of the horses brought by the Norse settlers, making them one of the purest horse breeds in the world. This uninterrupted lineage has preserved their unique traits and robust health.
Lifetime Exile: Due to strict biosecurity measures, any Icelandic horse that leaves Iceland is barred from returning. This policy is in place to protect the breed from foreign diseases and maintain the health and purity of the Icelandic stock.
Five Gaits: While most horse breeds have three or four gaits (walk, trot, canter/gallop), Icelandic horses are renowned for their five gaits. In addition to the typical walk, trot, and canter/gallop, they can perform the tölt and the skeið (pace). The tölt is a smooth, four-beat gait that is incredibly comfortable for the rider, while the skeið is a fast, two-beat gait used for racing.
Longevity: Icelandic horses are known for their longevity and can live well into their late 20s or even 30s. Some individuals have been known to continue riding well into their 20s, which is a testament to their hardiness and excellent care standards in Iceland.
Temperament: Icelandic horses are famous for their friendly and curious nature. They are generally easy to handle and have a calm demeanor, making them excellent companions for riders of all levels. Their intelligence and willingness to please further enhance their appeal.

Interacting with Icelandic Horses: Guidelines for Visitors
  
Icelandic horses are a national treasure, and their care and preservation are of utmost importance. If you’re lucky enough to encounter these magnificent creatures, here are some guidelines to ensure a safe and respectful interaction:

Do Not Stop in the Middle of the Road: While the sight of Icelandic horses can be mesmerizing, stopping in the middle of the road poses a significant risk. Always ensure that you park your vehicle in a visible and safe location before approaching them.
Pet Horses Appropriately: The best places to pet Icelandic horses are on a horse-riding tour or at a farm, with permission from the owner. Always ask beforehand to ensure that it’s a suitable time and place for interaction.
Do Not Feed the Horses: Icelandic horses are well-fed, and giving them inappropriate food can harm their health. Trust that their caretakers provide them with the necessary nutrition.
Respect Private Property: Most Icelandic horses are kept on private land. Never trespass onto private property without permission. Always respect the boundaries set by property owners.

By following these guidelines, you can ensure that your interaction with Icelandic horses is both enjoyable and respectful, preserving the well-being of these incredible animals and the cultural heritage they represent.
Random Fact of the Episode
The Icelandic horse is one of the most colorful breeds in the world. It has over 40 colours and up to 100 variations and, with only few exceptions, most of the known horse colours can be found within the breed.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Hestur – Horse
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5 Fascinating Facts About the  Icelandic Horse

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
Who is Hallbera the Icelandic Ghost?
There is an old Icelandic folklore tale about a ghost named Hallbera. It is said that she resides in the Scouts Cabin. She specifically occupies one of the bunks.
Hallbera is known for her mischievous nature, playing pranks on those who sleep in one of the bunks. She might push the unfortunate sleeper onto the floor or give them unsettling dreams. Any strange occurrences in the cabin are often attributed to her. Legend has it that Hallbera once lived on the land where the cabin was built. When construction began, she was forced to leave, vowing to return and haunt the place forever.
The house that Hallbera haunts is part of the Árbær Open Air Museum in the greater Reykjavík area.
Random Fact of the Episode
The Árbær Open Air Museum vividly depicts the small-town life and environment of Reykjavík in the 19th and 20th centuries. During the summer, museum staff can be seen dressed in period clothing, actively participating in events and exhibitions that bring Reykjavík’s history to life.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Skátarnir – the scouts
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Hallbera the Trickster Ghost – Folklore Friday

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
The Toddler’s Transformation
One summer on a farm when everyone else where collecting hay, a woman and her child, a toddler, were in the house because she was doing chores. The child was well behaved, spoke fluently and, in general, didn’t make much of a fuss. At some point in the day, the woman needed to clean the milk troughs. Instead of taking him with her, she sat him on the steps right outside of the house so she could keep an eye on him.
When she came back to the house, she spoke to her child but instead of him responding in his normal intelligible and calm voice, he screamed and squealed at her. She was shocked because her child had never behaved like that before. However, it didn’t stop there. From that moment on, the child would either scream, squeal, or act foolishly when spoken to. She was baffled by this and felt so frustrated at his drastic change.
The Mother Seeks Advice
She went to seek advice from a neighbor about this strange change in her child. In the area, this neighbor was known to be wise and educated. After telling the neighbor about the change, the wise woman asked some questions to get as much helpful information as possible.
After getting the answers, the wise older woman asked the young woman if she thinks it is possible that who she is interacting with is a changeling. Basically, that her child had been swapped out for a creature posing as her child. The young woman didn’t know how to answer that because she was not familiar with changelings and didn’t know how to identify one.
The older woman explained that the way to find out is to leave the child alone in a room with a novel item, something they have never seen before, and observe how they interact with that object. If the kid is saying strange things about the object, go to the child and whip them mercilessly until something happens. Out of desperation, the woman of the child said she will give it a try.
Setting a Trap for a Changeling
The young woman went back home and thought about something novel to leave her child alone with. While the kid was out of the house, she created a long pole out of wooden shafts and put a small pot on the floor. The pole reached up into the chimney, which is quite long. She then put a spoon on the end of the pole, which was dipping into the pot on the floor. It kind of looked like a super long spoon in a pot.
She gets the child and puts him in the kitchen. After leaving the child in the kitchen alone, she keeps the door cracked so she can hear what is going on. At some point the child is staring at the pot and circling around it. The shocker is that she then hears her child say “I am as old as my beard implies and I have 18 children among the elves and yet I have never seen such a long pole in a little pot.”
Upon hearing that, the woman burst into the kitchen with a really big broom and starts to mercilessly beat whoever is posing to be her child. Not surprising, the changeling is screaming to the high heavens because it hurts. Not long after the beating started, a strange woman appears in the kitchen with the woman’s actual son.
Thankfully, the child looks fine and is just as well behaved as he was in the past. The mother of the child stops beating the changeling and looks at the strange woman who brought her child back. The strange woman expresses that she has been treating the child well and it’s not nice or equal treatment that this person has been beating the butt of her husband. After saying that, the strange woman sets the child down, takes her husband and leaves.
They disappear and neither the child nor its mother see them again. It is said that the child grew up to be just fine.
Random Fact of the Episode
Changelings in Icelandic folklore show up in many different stories. They are part of the Icelandic Huldufólk. While it wasn’t the case in this story, some of them can be evil or showcase evil behavior.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Hamskipti – changeling
Að skipta um ham – to change mode
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The Man with 18 Children Among the Elves – Folklore Friday

This is the fourth episode for my segment “Ask Jewells Anything About Iceland”. Thank you to everyone who sent in questions. If you want to submit a question, you can do it here.
You can check out previous Ask Jewells Anything About Iceland episodes here.
Answers to the Questions That Were Submitted
1.	Stephanie J. asked:
“What is the tipping culture in Iceland?”

Tipping in Iceland is not expected, nor is the service you get dependent on it. While you can tip if you want to, it is certainly not a part of the culture, and some might even tell you that they don’t accept tips due to workers being paid a livable wage.
2.	Ana R. asked:
“What are your favorites pools and spas around Iceland? Cheers from Brazil!”

My favorite high end pools and spas are:

Sky Lagoon
Geo Sea
Forest Lagoon

When it comes to natural hot pools, my favorites are in the West fjords. They are as follows:

Laugarnes on Birkimelur hot pool
Heydalur hot pools and indoor pool in a greenhouse
Krossneslaug pool

For local swimming pools, I really like Lágafellslaug in Mosfellsbær and Laugardalslaug in Reykjavík.
3.	Caroline said:
“I’m traveling to Iceland from the US and I was curious if I should get some Icelandic kronar before I come to have on hand. I know Iceland prefers cards, but would having cash on hand be helpful?”

Because Iceland is becoming an almost cashless society, using cash is not necessary. Even really small vendors take debit and credit cards. You are more than welcome to take out Icelandic Kronar if you want to but you don’t need cash.
4.	Caroline said:
“What is the tipping culture for tour guides? For example, is it customary to tip the guide and/ or driver if you do a whale watching or glacier lagoon tour?”

There is no expectation or encouragement to tip your tour guide. Of course you can if you want to but it is not a custom in Iceland to do that.
5.	Stephanie said:
“I traveled to Iceland in March 2017 and flew Icelandair. The programming on the flight included tv episodes of an Icelander who had moved to a small town and talked about the life and activities in that town. It was great and I haven’t been able to find it again! Do you happen to know what the show is, or can you recommend other shows about life in Iceland? Thank you!”

Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to find the show you watched on Icelandair. You can find some shows on RÚV that have English substitles. There is also a channel on RÚV that has educational content. However, it is only in Icelandic.
6.	Kelly N. said:
“What’s a good way or place to get a daily summary of current events in Iceland (in English! 😉 )…as I’m sure you know, the daily morning and/or evening New York times is what I use in the US…love your show! :)”

Here are the Icelandic news outlets online that are in English:

RUV English
Iceland Review
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Iceland Monitor

7.	Mariana said:
“Have you ever been to the Inside the Vulcano Tour? Is is worth it? Thanks!”

Yes, I have been to Inside the Volcano some years ago. I think the experience was unique and interesting. I know it looks quite pricey, but I felt like it was worth it. The inside of the lava chamber was mind-blowing to me.
8.	Chrissy P said:
“Hi, Jewells! I’m a new listener and fan of the pod. My partner and I are visiting Iceland for the first time at the start of June and will be spending 2 weeks camper vanning it up! We’re birders and overall lovers of nature and are thinking of renting cameras instead of packing and bringing our own. Do you have thoughts or recommendations for renting cameras while we’re in Iceland? I know camera rentals can get pretty pricey quickly. Also, we too are East coast vegans! Thanks so much for all the plant based recs you’ve given on the pod! A bonus question, if it’s okay, would be for your favorite vegan-friendly hot dog spot in Iceland :’) Thanks so much!!”

Here is one place that I found where they rent cameras.
These are my favorite vegan hot dog places:

The hot dog stand in Akureyri
The pysluvagninn truck in Selfoss
Vikingapyslur
Vikivaki on Laugavegur

9.	Rob From Chattanooga said:
“What do Icelanders think about the movie Eurovision Song Contest?”

Many Icelanders found the movie to be funny and loved that Iceland was being featured in such a big movie with big movie stars like Will Ferrell and Rachel McAdams.
10.	Anne C. said:
“What is something local people of Iceland miss or like to bring back from other places that might be difficult to get or very expensive there? For example my friends who live in the Virgin Islands miss Peanut Butter, fresh berries and odd things that are difficult to get over there or are expensive. What do you miss food or daily use wise…??? Does that make sense?”

Many Icelanders miss having summers or just weather in general that has temperatures above 60-degrees Fahrenheit. It is common for many of them to vacation in Tenerife or other warm locations. Because many things in Iceland are expensive, so many Icelanders will take an extra, empty suitcase for shopping. They can shop for clothes, toys, shoes, and etc. I miss some foods and restaurants, access to certain hair products, my family and less expensive prices for pretty much anything.
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Ask Jewells Anything About Iceland – Response Episode 4

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series where I am sharing a folklore story every Friday in 2024.
A Tale from Grímsey Island
I’m sharing about a man and a polar bear in Grímsey, which is the northernmost inhabited island in Iceland. It is the only part of Iceland that is the Arctic circle. I’ve not been there yet, but I have heard it is beautiful. This story takes place many years during a harsh winter.
On this day, no one on the island could keep a fire lit. It seems that they were in short supply of resources for it, which was major problem since it was so cold. The intense cold froze the water in the sound between mainland Iceland and the island, which made it impossible for a ship to get to the island to provide more fire.
Heading Out into the Harsh Winter in Search of Fire
One solution was to walk on foot to mainland Iceland to get fire but doing that is a long journey that required resilience and endurance. They decided to pick three of their strongest men to make the journey. Early one morning the men set off on their way. Most of the journey was uneventful until they are halfway across the sound. There, they encounter a big gap in the sound. They are not sure how long and wide it is but it looks like it would be difficult to jump across.
 
Two of the men jump and barely make it. The last guy does not feel confident he can make the jump so he just stands there. The other two who made the jump suggest that he go back to the island because they need to keep going. Not wanting to give up so easily, the guy walks along the big crack looking for a place that might be easier for him to jump across.
Encountering a Polar Bear
As the time passes, it gets darker and colder. Also, a storm rolls in as well. That storm brings southerly winds that blow warmer air, which starts to melt the ice. He gets caught on a big piece of ice that broke off in the sound between the mainland island and Grímsey. That piece of ice just drifts off in the water. Eventually, the storm stops and the piece of ice he is floating on crashes into a large ice sheet.
At this point, he is really hungry, tired and he has no idea how he will get back home. To make matters worse, he encounters a polar bear. For those that do not know, Polar Bear are normally vicious hunters and will not hesitate to kill a person or another animal if they are hungry.
Rightfully so, he is scared. The polar bear has cubs and she looks up at him as he stands there stopped in his tracks. She gives him the once over and starts to circle around him. 
How the Polar Bear Saved the Man’s Life
When it seems that he is getting stronger after a couple of days, the bear is walking along with him the bear puts her head down and gestures for him to get on her back. When he does, she shakes violently, which makes him fall off immediately.
 
He has no idea why she did that but just left it alone. For the next few days, she continues to gesture for him to get on her back and shakes so hard that he falls off. At night, she keeps him warm and provides nutrition At one point, he is on her back and she shakes but he is able to hold on. That is when the bear jumps into the water with him on her back and starts swimming to Grímsey.
 
When they arrive to the island, the man wants to show his gratitude so he gives her milk from his best cows and slaughters some of his best sheep for her to take back to share with her cubs.
 
She is grateful for that and she heads back to her cubs with food. Everyone in the town is shocked that he had befriended a polar bear. Right after the bear left, they see a ship in the distance and the two guys from earlier in the story were on that ship. They were bringing supplies for fire back to the island.
Random Fact of the Episode
According to a webpage about Grímsey, about 100 people live there but it is home to about 1 million sea birds.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Ísbjörn – Ice bear is the literal translation but it is the word for polar bear in Icelandic.
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The Man & The Polar Bear – Folklore Friday

At the beginning of 2025, a new travel authorization system called ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization System) will come into effect. This new requirement aims to bolster security across Europe, addressing concerns related to terrorism and the influx of migrants and refugees.
Non-EU visitors who previously didn’t need a visa will now have to apply online for ETIAS, which will screen applicants against a database for criminal activities, prior overstays in the EU, and other security issues.
Iceland and the Schengen Zone
  
While Iceland is not part of the EU, it is a member of the Schengen zone, along with countries like Norway and Switzerland. The Schengen zone has uniform rules regarding entry and stay duration.
Therefore, Iceland will implement the same ETIAS requirements as other Schengen countries. This means that if you plan to visit Iceland and then travel to other European destinations, you will need an ETIAS authorization before landing in Reykjavik.
Upon arrival, your passport will be stamped for a maximum stay of 90 days, allowing you to travel freely within the Schengen zone during this period.
Do You Need an Iceland ETIAS Visa Waiver?
  
As long as Iceland remains in the Schengen zone, the ETIAS rules will apply. Whether you need to apply for ETIAS depends on your nationality. Citizens of EU countries will continue to enjoy unrestricted travel across Europe, including Iceland. Non-EU citizens are divided into two categories:

Visa-Exempt Travelers: This includes citizens from North America, Australia, and other countries who previously only needed a valid passport for short visits to Europe. Starting in 2025, these travelers must apply for ETIAS approval. The application fee is €7, and the authorization is valid for three years or until the passport expires, whichever comes first.
Visa-Required Travelers: Citizens from countries not covered by the visa waiver will continue to need a full visa to enter Iceland, as is currently the case.

When Do You Need to Have ETIAS?
The ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization System) is set to launch in early 2025. Following its implementation, there will be a 180-day grace period.
During this six-month grace period, non-EU travelers who previously did not need a visa will need to fill out an ETIAS application form. This period will allow travelers to become familiar with the new requirement and give European travel authorities time to train on the new protocols and address any technical issues that arise.
After the grace period ends, all third-country nationals will be required to have ETIAS approval to enter the Schengen zone.
  
What will be asked on the ETIAS Application form?
The ETIAS online application will ask for basic information as part of the pre-screening check. Below is the information that is said to be required:

Valid passport / Travel document information
Full name
Current address
Citizenship status
Sex
Preferred gender
Dual citizenship status
Email address
Telephone number
Date of birth
Final destination member state
Educational background
Occupational background

During the ETIAS application or appeal process, you may be asked about your:

Criminal history
Past incarceration
Felon status
Past European travel
Drug use
Health history

  
How Long does Approval of ETIAS applications Take?
According to the website about ETIAS applications, it will only take a few minutes for an application to be approved once the payment is completed. While that sounds great, I would not leave applying for ETIAS to the last minute to avoid any possible issues.
Discovering Iceland’s Natural Wonders
Iceland is a treasure trove of unique geological features, offering an abundance of geysers, bubbling mud pots, volcanoes, and lava fields. The country’s geothermal activity makes it a fascinating destination, even in winter, where you can relax in hot pools amidst snow and ice.
However, summer remains the ideal time to visit, especially if you plan to rent a car and explore beyond Reykjavik and Akureyri, Iceland’s two largest cities. If you plan to rent a car, I recommend using Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers.
I use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.
They’ve also given me a link so you can save 7% on your rental, plus get a couple of really useful extras.
With Go Car Rental, you’ll save 7% and get free 4G WiFi with your rental.
With Go Campers, you’ll save 7% and get a free sleeping bag included.
You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsicelandfor the discounts.
Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.
For Go Car:When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added.
For Go Campers:Choose a sleeping bag under the “Sleeping” section, and same thing, the total price won’t increase.
And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.
  
Don’t miss out on Iceland’s breathtaking national parks. Þingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is known for its historical and geological significance. Vatnajökull National Park boasts Iceland’s highest mountain, largest glacier, and extensive ice fields. You can use My Iceland Map to plan out your epic adventure.
As travel regulations evolve, staying informed is crucial for a smooth and enjoyable journey. With ETIAS in place, you’ll have peace of mind knowing that your visit to Iceland and beyond is secure and well-regulated. Enjoy your adventure in this land of fire and ice!
Random Fact of the Episode
Visa and Travel Authorization Requirements for Visiting the United States
All foreigners visiting the United States must hold a valid visa or travel authorization (ESTA) unless they are green card holders. While visas are issued by U.S. embassies, travel authorizations are applied for and issued online.
The Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) is an online platform designed to streamline the application process for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program. For those planning to travel to the USA by air or sea, obtaining travel authorization through ESTA is a mandatory step before beginning their journey.
Requirements to Apply for an ESTA
To apply for an ESTA (Electronic System for Travel Authorization), travelers must meet specific requirements and eligibility criteria. Here’s what you need to know:
Eligibility Criteria

Citizenship: Only citizens from 41 qualifying countries are eligible for the Visa Waiver Program (VWP). Ensure that your country is on the list of eligible nations.
Purpose of Visit: The Visa Waiver Program allows for stays of up to 90 days for purposes including tourism, business, transit, healthcare, or participation in non-credited study programs.

Application Requirements

Biometric Passport: You must possess a biometric passport that includes a microchip and the relevant symbol on its cover. This passport must be valid for the entire duration of your stay in the United States.
ESTA Application: Complete the ESTA application online. It is recommended to apply for ESTA before making any hotel or flight reservations, as there might be a need to apply for a full visa if ESTA is not approved.

Post-Approval
Once your ESTA application is approved, you can update it with your final itinerary details before your departure. This flexibility allows you to finalize your travel plans with confidence.
By meeting these requirements, you can ensure a smooth application process and secure your travel authorization to visit the United States under the Visa Waiver Program.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Vegabréfsáritun  – Visa
Vegabréf – passport
Áritun – Signed document
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Iceland Will Require a Visa Waiver Fee Starting in 2025

This is part of my Folklore Friday Series, where I am sharing an Icelandic folklore story every Friday in 2024. 
A King’s Decree Leads To Iceland’s Land Spirits Being Discovered
In the Heimskringla saga of King Olaf Tryggvason, there is a captivating tale of King Harald Bluetooth’s failed attempt to invade Iceland. According to the saga, Harald tasked a sorcerer who transformed into a fearsome whale, with finding the island’s vulnerabilities. However, each time the whale-sorcerer tried to land, he was repelled by supernatural beings known as Land Spirits, Iceland’s guardians.
A Sorcerer Encounters Iceland’s Land Spirits
The whale-sorcerer’s first attempt to land was in the Eastern Fjords, where he encountered a ferocious dragon. This dragon was so powerful that it is said that its fiery breath could make the ocean burn. To add to that, the flaps of its wings sounded like thunder. Alongside the dragon were terrifying snakes, lizards, and slithering spirits. Fearing for its life, the whale retreated farther back into the ocean.
A little shaken but still determined, the sorcerer/whale found himself in the north of Iceland, aiming to land in Eyjafjörður. Here, a massive griffin with an immense wingspan descended from the skies. Countless birds with razor-sharp talons and beaks like battle axes came with it. Together, they drove the whale-sorcerer away.
For his third attempt, the whale tried to land in the Westfjords of the country, specifically Breiðafjörður, where an enormous bull awaited him. Unlike other bulls, this one was said to have a body as solid as the earth, bronze horns, and a hide as tough as stone. To add to its insane exterior, one bellow from the bull made the mountains shake. and a body as solid as the earth, the bull’s bellowing made the mountains tremble. Not surprisingly, the whale-wizard had no intention of going head-to-head with the bull, so it fled.
In a final desperate attempt to find a vulnerable spot on the island to report back to the King, the sorcerer aimed for the Reykjanes peninsula. Here, he faced an enormous giant whose head towered above the hilltops. Armed with an iron staff and with a formidable army of other giants, the giant sent the whale-sorcerer fleeing back to the sea, thwarting King Harald Bluetooth’s invasion plans.
Random Fact of the Episode
These guardians protect Iceland, each overseeing a quarter of the island. To this day, these Land Spirits are deeply respected and are featured on the Icelandic coat of arms, as well as the Icelandic króna coins. They symbolize the protection and prosperity of Iceland’s land and its spiritual and physical inhabitants.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Landvættir is the Icelandic word for land spirits.
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The Four Protectors of Iceland – Folklore Friday

Iceland straddles the Mid-Atlantic Ridge where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates meet. This unique geographical setting has led to some fascinating geological features and dynamic landscapes.
In this episode, I go over the geology a little bit, the main reason why Iceland does not split in two even though the tectonic plates are slowing moving apart, and where in the country you can enjoy seeing the Mid-Atlantic Ridge in the country.
The Mid-Atlantic Ridge and Iceland’s Unique Position
The Mid-Atlantic Ridge is a submarine mountain range that runs down the center of the Atlantic Ocean, marking the boundary between the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates. In most places, this ridge lies deep underwater, but in Iceland, it rises above the sea, creating a rare opportunity to observe tectonic activity on land.
Iceland owes its existence to this tectonic setting. The ridge is characterized by divergent boundaries, where the plates are moving away from each other. As these plates diverge, magma rises from the mantle to fill the gap, creating new crust. This process is responsible for the volcanic activity that has shaped Iceland’s rugged terrain.
The Nature of Tectonic Plates
The movement of tectonic plates is a slow and gradual process. The Eurasian and North American plates are drifting apart at an average rate of about 2.5 centimeters (.9 inches) per year. While this may seem significant, it’s important to put it in perspective. Over millions of years, this movement will indeed widen the Atlantic Ocean, but the effect on Iceland is much more subtle.
The divergence of these plates does cause fissures and rift valleys, such as the Þingvellir National Park, where the rift between the plates is visible. However, this does not mean Iceland will split in half. Instead, the country is constantly being reshaped and reformed by volcanic activity and the upwelling of magma, which fills in any gaps created by the diverging plates.
Volcanic Activity and Land Formation
One of the key factors that prevent Iceland from splitting is its volcanic activity. Iceland is one of the most volcanically active regions in the world, with eruptions occurring roughly every four to five years. In most recent years, we have seen an increase in volcanic eruptions with them happening multiple times in a year just in 2024. These eruptions are part of the same process that forms the mid-ocean ridges.
When magma from beneath the Earth’s crust reaches the surface, it cools and solidifies, forming new land. This continuous creation of new crust compensates for the divergent movement of the tectonic plates. Instead of splitting apart, Iceland is actually growing larger over time as new volcanic material is added to its landmass.
The Role of the Icelandic Mantle Plume
Adding to the volcanic activity is the presence of the Icelandic mantle plume, a column of hot, molten rock that rises from deep within the Earth. This plume provides a steady supply of magma, which fuels Iceland’s numerous volcanoes. The mantle plume is thought to be responsible for the high levels of volcanic activity and the formation of Iceland itself.
The mantle plume’s upwelling helps to reinforce the island’s structure. As magma rises and cools, it forms new rock that acts to fill in and stabilize any fractures or rifts caused by the diverging plates. This process ensures that while fissures and rifts are part of Iceland’s landscape, they do not lead to the island splitting apart.
Geophysical Studies and Predictions
Extensive geophysical studies have been conducted to monitor Iceland’s tectonic activity. Seismologists and geologists use a range of tools, including GPS measurements, seismographs, and satellite imagery, to track the movement of the plates and the activity of the mantle plume. These studies provide valuable insights into the dynamics at play.
The data shows that while there are indeed rifting events and volcanic eruptions, the overall structure of the island remains stable. The creation of new crust through volcanic activity outpaces the divergent movement of the tectonic plates, maintaining the integrity of the landmass.
Where to Experience the Mid Atlantic Ridge in Iceland
There are two well marked areas where you can experience the rift valley in Iceland. The most well known place is Thingvellir National Park, which is part of the famous Golden Circle route. Here, you can walk in the rift valley, which is the valley between the Eurasian and North American Tectonic Plates.
I shared in a recent episode about snorkeling between these plates and how incredibly fun it is. If you plan to do that, you can use my code Iceland10 to save 10% when you book with Arctic Adventures.
If you are curious about all of the stops on the Golden Circle, including some fun extras, check out my Ultimate Golden Circle episode that I shared on the podcast.
The other place is on the Reykjanes Peninsula. In fact, there is a Bridge between Continents attraction there. It is a symbolic bridge named after Leifur Eriksson that shows that you cross between continents. Technically, it is that you can cross between plates but because most of North America is on the North American tectonic plate and most of Europe is on the Eurasian tectonic plate, it is advertised as between continents.
Random Fact of the Episode
A unique feature of Iceland is that it is only inhabited island in the world where the Mid-Atlantic ridge is visible on land.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Atlantshafshryggurinn – Atlantic Ridge
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Is Iceland Splitting in Half? – How Moving Tectonic Plates Impacts the Country

Where Iceland’s Loch Ness Monster Lives 
Lagarfljot, nestled in eastern Iceland, is not just a lake but a river channel flowing from the majestic Vatnajokull glacier to the sea. This secluded area carries a mysterious aura, providing fertile ground for local folklore.
Visitors from the east of Iceland or those who have journeyed to Reykjavik might share tales of a monstrous inhabitant lurking in the murky depths of the lake, reminiscent of Scotland’s famous Loch Ness monster.
This creature, known as Lagarfljotsormur, a name that challenges even the bravest linguist, translates to “the Lagarfljot worm.” Reported sightings by locals have captured this enigmatic being on film, where it appears as an elusive, moving shape beneath the water’s surface.
How Lagarfljótsormur Came to Be
According to legend, the origins of this creature stem from a young girl’s encounter with greed. Gifted a gold ring by her mother, she sought advice on how to maximize its value. Her mother relayed a local myth: placing a worm on gold would make the gold multiply.
The girl, hoping to increase her wealth, locked a worm in a chest with the ring. Contrary to her hopes, the worm grew exponentially. Overcome with fear upon discovering the worm’s transformation, she hurled the chest into the lake.
Since that day, the creature, resembling a giant sea snake, has surfaced sporadically, captured in fleeting video glimpses that stoke the fires of legend and debate. To some, these images are proof of its existence; to others, they are mere fragments of myth. The true nature of Lagarfljotsormur remains shrouded in mystery, its legend undiminished by time.
Random Fact of the Episode
There have been numerous people that claim to have seen this giant worm and there was even a video that came out once that was said to be footage of it.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Lagarfljótsormur – the Lagarfljot worm
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Iceland’s Loch Ness Monster – Folklore Friday

Have you ever imagined swimming between two continents, touching the jagged edges of the earth’s crust beneath crystal-clear water? I had the unforgettable experience of snorkeling in Silfra Fissure, located in the heart of Thingvellir National Park, Iceland.
This unique adventure is available all year round, and whether you visit during the chilly embrace of December or the milder days of April, like I did, it’s an exhilarating experience not to be missed.
Arctic Adventures is a premier travel company in Iceland, offering a wide array of day and multi-day tours that showcase the breathtaking natural beauty of this volcanic island.
From snorkeling and glacier hiking to exploring the eruptive landscapes, they ensure a memorable and safe adventure for all. I’ve partnered with them for this post, and by using my code Iceland10, you can save 10% on any of their tours. Check out their offerings at adventures.is and plan your next epic journey!
What is Silfra Fissure in Thingvellir National Park in Iceland?
  
Silfra Fissure is a remarkable rift formed between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. This gap widens slightly each year, filled with glacial meltwater that is filtered through underground lava for nearly a century before it emerges as some of the clearest and freshest water on earth. Snorkeling here, you are literally floating between continents, in water visibility that extends up to 100 meters (about 328 feet), making it one of the top dive sites in the world.
My Arctic Adventure Begins
  
My journey began in the historic Thingvellir National Park, just about an hour’s drive from Reykjavik. I chose to drive myself to the meeting point, parking in Lot 5 and walking a short distance to where Arctic Adventures had set up. It was a brisk 10 degrees Celsius in April—a perfect day for snorkeling.
After a quick registration and waiver signing, the team helped us suit up. We were advised to wear thin thermal layers and thick wool socks under provided thick onesie thermal suits. Over these, they layered us into snug dry suits complete with gloves, a dry suit material face mask, snorkel mask, and fins.
Given the water temperature hovers around 2-3 degrees Celsius, these dry suits were crucial for keeping our core body temperatures stable. And yes, take advantage of the restrooms before you suit up—it’s a lot easier!
The Snorkeling Experience in Silfra Fissure
  
The walk to the water’s edge was brief, and entering the water was seamless. Visibility was phenomenal; we could see the divers below us looking as if they were hovering just feet away due to the clarity of the water. A soft current gently pulled us through the fissure, meaning we could enjoy the surreal surroundings without much effort.
The guide even snapped photos during our adventure, which were later available for download—truly epic shots that captured the ethereal blue of the waters, which are so pure you can drink from them.
Warmth After the Chill
Post-snorkel, we were treated to hot chocolate or tea and cookies, a welcome treat that helped warm us from the inside out. While the dry suits did an excellent job overall, my hands did feel the chill, especially my left one, which got uncomfortably cold. Fortunately, the sunny weather helped in warming up quickly once we were out of the water
Overall Impressions
Despite the minor chill, the experience was nothing short of magical. Snorkeling at Silfra with Arctic Adventures was a highlight of my adventures in Iceland—a truly unique experience where you can float between two worlds. It’s something I’d recommend to anyone visiting Iceland, no matter the season.
For more information on booking your own adventure and to utilize discounts, check out the “Trip Planning Help” tab at the top of my website allthingsiceland.com. Don’t forget to use Iceland10 to save on your booking with Arctic Adventures.
Here’s to your next adventure—may it be as breathtaking as snorkeling in Silfra!
Random Fact of the Episode
Silfra and other fissures in the park were created after an earthquake in 1789. The water in the fissure is meltwater from the nearby Langjökull glacier. After melting from the glacier, it takes a long journey through underground lava fields before reaching the fissure.
It’s approximated that it takes about 30-100 years for the glacier melt water to flow about 31 miles or 51 kilometers to the fissure. The water is not only crystal clear, but also absolute delicious to drink.
Icelandic Word of the Episode 
Silfra – silvery
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What It‘s Like to Snorkel Between Continents in Iceland‘s Silfra Fissure

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series, where I am sharing fascinating stories from Icelandic folklore on Fridays throughout 2024.
How Rusty “The Brown One” Became a Ghost
Rusty is a boy that is the main character of this story. According to the legend, he was 16 years old in the late 1700s in Iceland, and one day is he was out walking during a bad storm. Unfortunately, Rusty only had rags on and it was hard for him to find shelter.
At one point he finally found a farm, knocked on the door and asked the farmer if he can stay there until the storm had passed. To Rusty’s surprise, the farmer turned him away. Rusty decided to continue on walking in the storm and sadly he ended up drowning in a large body of water.
After he died, I guess his ghost made the choose to come back and haunt the farmer tha denied him shelter on that fatal night. However, he didn‘t just haunt the farmer. He haunted the family of the farmer for generations. So, if anything went wrong it was blamed on Rusty, the Brown One.
Some examples include marriages not working out, farm equipment breaking, things going missing and so on. Apparently, Rusty‘s ghost was not satisfied with just haunting the family because it‘s said that he started to haunt travelers as well on the south coast.
Rusty Formed a “Ghost Gang”
A young woman that died in a similar way to Rusty ended up joining Rusty as a ghost to haunt travelers. In an even weirder twist to the story, the ghosts of Rusty and the young somehow caused the death of another person. This individual also became a ghost and joined their ghost gang to haunt people. If you plan to travel along Iceland‘s South Coast, know that there is a chance that you might be haunted by this trio of ghosts.
Random Fact of the Episode
Ghost stories are very popular in Icelandic folklore. Every region has a plethora of stories about ghosts, mostly people who we might consider to be wronged in some way, who come back to haunt people. I have some fascinating ones to share in the near future, so keep your eye out for that.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Ghost – draugur
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The Icelandic Ghost that Haunts South Iceland – Folklore Friday

This is the third response episode for my new segment “Ask Jewells Anything About Iceland”. Thank you to everyone who sent in questions and if you would like to submit a question, you can do it here.
1. Should I exchange a small amount of currency before I leave? I have heard that Iceland is a cashless society, but I am thinking about tour guide tips or random purchases.- Christina
Iceland is not yet a cashless society, but we are certainly heading quickly in that direction. It isn’t necessary to take out cash in the local currency because debit and credit cards are the preferred method of payment. Also, tipping is not expected or encouraged because companies pay their employees livable wages for their work. You can, of course, take out cash to tip your guide or make random purchases if you prefer to pay that way but that’s up to you because it is not required.
2. Hi, I have another question! You wear such beautiful Icelandic sweaters on your Instagram. Where should I shop when I come in the spring? Somewhere that has really nice ones and doesn’t jack up the prices for tourists? – Alison
Kolaportið is flea market by the old harbor that is only open during weekends. There are some vendors there that are selling handmade Icelandic sweaters for a decent price.
Another place is the Handknitting association of Iceland. They have two locations in Reykjavík and all of their sweaters are handknit in the country. One helpful tip is to make sure you get the appropriate form at the store to get the 24% VAT (Value added tax) back at the airport when you leave the country. Iceland has that tax included in the price but they refund it for tourists on certain items.
3. “Hi Jewells,
I have recently discovered your podcast, and have been binge listening to episodes to prepare for my upcoming trip in May! ( I am so excited!) I am learning so much, and I appreciate hearing about your experiences! Thank you!
You mentioned that eating in restaurants is quite pricey in Iceland for a variety of reasons, including allowing restaurant owners to be able to pay their employees a living wage. Is it still customary to leave a tip for waitstaff? If so , is the recommnded amount the same as the US? (20-25%)
Thank you for taking the time to read my question.”  – Vickie

The great news is that tipping is not part of the culture in Iceland, so you don’t have to factor in any % to your bill. This applies in every place, including cafes.
4. Hi Jewells! My family will be there in June. Is there a traditional event for summer solstice?  – Ruth
Unlike other Nordic nations, Iceland does not have nationwide celebrations for the summer solstice. One place that has an annual event is in the far north. It is an island called Grímsey. They have a multiple day festival to celebrate the long and seemingly endless summer day. Here is where you can find the program for last year. I assume they will have the 2024 program soon. Please note that you need to take either a boat or plane to reach Grímsey. I have heard that many people get sea sick on the boat, so keep  that in mind if you choose that option.
5. “Thank you so much for your informative podcasts! My wife and I are planning to visit Iceland for the first time in October 2025. We believe that the best way to experience a new place is to immerse ourselves in it and to attempt to learn the language. What was your experience in learning the Icelandic language, and what do you recommend is a good way/resource to learn the language?” – Gerald
My recommendation for learning Icelandic is to get as much input of the language as you can in a way that you can relate to. Meaning, it helps to see shows or read text at your level or slightly above that you can understand enough to start internalizing it. Input that is repetitive can help you to become more familiar wth certain sounds and phrases. As a visitor, my episode on Useful Icelandic Phrases for Visitors is a good place to start. The other resources I listed below can help too.

LingQ is free for those learning Icelandic
Viltu læra íslensku
Íslenska fyrir alla
Drops – the only one on the list you have to pay for

6. Hi Jewels! Have you been to the “Sorcery Festival” in Hólmavík? It takes place in late April and looks really interesting. – Ruth
I have yet to attend that festival but it sounds like a lot of fun. If you get a chance to attend, Ruth, I would love to hear about your experience.
7. Hi Jewells! I was hoping you could talk about the tipping culture in Iceland. Thanks! – Julia
Thankfully, Iceland does not have a culture of tipping. Due to unions negotiating on behalf of workers for fair and livable wages from employees, tipping is not necessary or encouraged in Iceland.
8. Hi Jewells! Do you have a suggestion for whale watching in the south of Iceland? I won’t have enough time to make it to Húsavík, but I still want to go. I’m visiting in June and torn between whale watching in Reykjavik or Olafsvik.- Casey
Yes, whale watching from Reykjavík can be a lot of fun. You might see Minke whales, humpback whales, porpoises and dolphins. If you are looking for a company that does it from the harbor in the city, then I recommend Arctic Adventures. You can use my code Iceland10 to save 10% on any of their tours, including the whale watching one.
9. What itinerary would you suggest for a person with only 8 full days in Iceland who wants to see as much as possible. – Marilyn
There are many factors that come into play when planning a trip in Iceland, including when you plan to come, what kind of budget you have, the accommodations you prefer and so on. My suggestion, without knowing any of that information up front, is to split the eight days up as the following:
1 Day in Reykjavik when you arrive
1 Day on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula
2 Days in North Iceland
1 Day around the Golden Circle
2 Days in the South/Southeast
1 Day either back in Reykjavik or the Reykjanes Peninsula
If you would like to discuss your trip in more detail, feel free to book a video consultation with me and I can help you plan a more personalized itinerary.
10. Which ice caves and glaciers have you visited and which ones are you favorites?  – Ana
I like the Katla Ice Cave, Into the Glacier, and naturally forming ice caves that guides often find on the glacier during winter that do not have names because they are not expected to last into the summer. Arctic Adventures has tours like that and you can use my code Iceland10 to save 10% on any of their tours and activities.
11. My question is: What’s the meaning of the Icelandic phrases that you say at the end of each episode? I might have missed the explanation in one of your earlier episodes since I became only a regular listener a couple of months ago. I’ve always loved the sound of the Icelandic language and would love to know more about it, even though I’m not ready to commit to learning it yet 😀 – Jonas
The phrase I say at the end is „Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega“. It means thank you kindly for listening and see you soon.
12. We will be driving all around Iceland for about 12 days. How much ISK would you recommend we bring? – Stephanie
In the podcast episode I go more in-depth into the numbers but for two people during summer I have an estimate of about $8,000. That is kind of on the conservative end. 
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Ask Jewells Anything About Iceland – Response Episode 3

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series, where I am sharing fascinating stories from Icelandic folklore on Fridays throughout 2024.
A Troll Lurking in Iceland’s East Fjords
Mjóifjörður (or narrow fjord) used to have up to 100 inhabitants centuries ago but it is now only about 14 people live there. During the winter it is common for the roads to be completely blocked off and the inhabitants can only be reached by boat.
The troll of this story was said to be around centuries ago when there were more people living in the fjord. She lived in a beautiful gorge called Prestagil. It‘s said tha the troll would use her magical powers to make the priests of the church in small farm called Fjörður go mad.
Priests Enchanted by  a Hungry Troll
 Her routine was to wait fo the pastor to be at the pulpit of the church on Sunday and then she would wave her hand outside the pulpit window. The pastor would see this and it would somehow enchant him to say:
Tear out my guts and my heart
Off to the gorge I’ll depart
Tear out my lust and my seed
To Mjóifjörður gorge I shall speed
After saying this, the priest would run out of the church as fast as he could into the gorge where the troll lived and was never seen again. Due to the Troll telling a traveler once that she was nibbling on the head of a former priest of the Fjörður, news spread that the troll was eating the men.
Several priests took the position over the years and each one disappeared after being enchanted by the troll. Naturally, priests became too afraid to serve there because they didn’t want to become Troll food.
A Brave Priest Comes Along
Finally, a priest volunteered even though he knew of the danger. What this priest did differently than the others was that he came up with a plan. Before his first mass, he assembled a group of men that normally attended the church.
He instructed them to do the following: When the troll tried to enchant him, six men will hold him back from running out of the church, another six will ring the church bells, and ten men will hold the church doors shut.
The fateful Sunday arrived and just as expected, the Troll waved her hand at the pulpit window. The priest immediately became enchanted and said the rhyme.
All of the men jumped into action. While the men held the priest back from fleeing the church, the other men rang the church bells like crazy. When the troll heard the bells she fled into the gorge and was never seen again.
Random Fact of the Episode
Klifbrekkufossar is a seven tiered waterfall in Mjóifjörður that is worth seeing if you are in the area and have time to drive into this fjord.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Prestagil – Pastor’s Gorge
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A Wicked Troll that Enchanted Icelandic Priests – Folklore Friday

Interviews are one of my favorite things to do for the podcast, so I was delighted when Laura was available to come on and share about her experience moving from the San Francisco Bay area to one of the most remote parts of the Westfjords in Iceland.
Background About Laura Alice Watt
Laura Alice Watt is a professor emerita of environmental history and policy at Sonoma State University in Northern California. She arrived in the Westfjords in July 2020 with a Fulbright-NSF Arctic Scholar grant to conduct historical research in Iceland, and decided to stay long-term.  She teaches occasional courses at the University Centre of the Westfjords, where she also provides writing support for graduate students with their thesis projects.
Before taking early retirement from Sonoma State, she spent fifteen years as professor in the Department of Geography, Environment, and Planning, and also Graduate Coordinator for SSU’s Cultural Resource Management masters program. She now lives on the northern shore of Dýrafjörður with her two cats, and is an avid photographer and knitter.
Questions I Asked Laura During the Interview

Where did you grow up in the US?
What was your profession while living in the US?
What inspired you to come to Iceland?
When did you know you wanted to stay here?
Why did you choose the Westfjords to live in Iceland?
What do you like about living in Iceland?
What do you dislike about living in Iceland?
What do you miss from the US (if anything at all)?
Do you ever see yourself moving back to the US?
How has your Icelandic learning journey been since moving here?
What advice do you have for people who want to move to Iceland?
What is your favorite Icelandic word or phrase?

Icelandic Phrase of the Episode
Glöggt er gests augað – Keen is the eye of the guest
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Laura Alice Watt: An American Relocates to Iceland’s Remote Westfjords

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series, where I am sharing fascinating stories from Icelandic folklore on Fridays throughout 2024.
What is a Skuggabaldur?
The Skuggabaldur is a fascinating animal in Icelandic folklore. Whether or not this type of animal really exists is hard to say but there are some interesting stories about it. A Skuggabaldur is created when a female arctic fox and a male cat or Tom cat get together and procreate.
If a male arctic fox and a female cat procreate, it is called a Skoffín. However, we are just going to focus on the Skuggabaldur for this episode. These animals are known to have very intense bites that inflict a lot of pain and death. Guns are not much use against them unless you are using silver bullets.
The Most Popular Skuggabaldur Story
One day in the north, particularly near Blönduós, a Skuggabaldur had been inflicting a lot of damage on the livestock in the area. The farmers there decided to hunt it down. They did eventually find the animal in Blöndugil, which is a small canyon in the area. One of the hunters ended up stabbing it.
Before the Skuggabaldur was killed, it said to tell the Tom Cat at Bollastaðir that the Skuggabaldur had been stabbed in the canyon. The people that were witnesses to this thought it was quite strange that this creature had a message for a cat but whatever.
The person who ended up stabbing and killing the Skuggabaldur was staying in Bollastaðir that evening. As he was recounting his story about killing the Skuggabaldur, he repeated what the message the creature has said to tell the Tom Cat.
Well, there was a Tom Cat listening in the rafters to the story and when he heard what the Skuggabaldur had said, it lept down to attack the man. It sunk its claws and teeth deep into the man’s neck and would not let go. The only way to stop the cat was to chop off its head. By that time, the man was already dead. I don‘t know if the Tom Cat was a relative of the Skuggabaldur but it certainly got revenge for its death.
Random Fact of the Episode
There is a book called “Skuggabaldur” by a well-known Icelandic poet and author named Sjón. In English, the book is called „The Blue Fox“. I have yet to read it but I want to. Apparently, knowing about the Skuggabaldur creature gives some deep insight into understanding all that is going on in this book.
According to one reviewer of the book:
“The Blue Fox,” by Sjon, is a dark, yet playful and humorous fable about a kind man, an evil man, a simpleton, and a blue fox. It is about fate, life, and human nature. The novella deals with evil cloaked in religion and justice being delivered in mysterious ways. It is full of hidden meaning, subtlety, and delightful intellectually amusing diversions.”
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Skuggabaldur – roughly translates to a shadow cat
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Skuggabaldur: Iceland’s Ferocious Shadow Cat – Folklore Friday

Iceland’s coffee culture is – deeply ingrained in the social fabric of Icelandic society. Along with being a drink that perks people up, grabbing a cup of coffee in Iceland is often a social interaction, where the drink is enjoyed in the company of others, many times in cozy settings. This communal aspect is so integral that offering coffee to guests is considered a basic hospitality gesture.
The Icelandic Coffee Scene in Downtown Reykjavík
Reykjavík, the heart of Iceland’s coffee scene, is home to a plethora of unique cafés, each with its own character and offerings, but bound by the common thread of quality and creativity.
Local cafes that offer high-quality coffee experiences thrive here. While there is no Starbucks or Dunkin Donuts in Iceland, even though Dunkin was here for a brief time, there is one international coffee chain called Joe & the Juice.
However, local cafes dominate the coffee scene and I’m going to share some of them that might interest you if you also happen to be a coffee lover. This is not an exhaustive list by any means but it’s a great starting point for enjoying the Icelandic coffee scene.
  
Mokka Kaffi
Mokka Kaffi is a testament to Reykjavík’s rich coffee history, being one of the city’s oldest cafés. Established in 1958, it was the pioneer in introducing the Italian espresso culture to Iceland. Beyond its historic significance, Mokka Kaffi has been a cultural hub for artists and writers and continues to be celebrated for its classic ambiance, monthly art exhibitions, and iconic Icelandic hot chocolate and waffles.
  
Reykjavík Roasters
Reykjavík Roasters, originally known as Kaffismiðja Íslands, emerged in 2008 and has since become a cornerstone of Reykjavík’s coffee culture. Their philosophy revolves around importing high-quality beans and roasting them meticulously to bring out the best flavors for coffee aficionados.
The café takes pride in sourcing its beans directly from farmers, particularly in Colombia, ensuring ethical practices and respect for both the environment and the people involved in coffee production. This direct relationship with coffee farmers reflects the café’s commitment to sustainability and ethical business practices.
Reykjavík Roasters has established itself as a hub for serious coffee lovers, offering a range of coffee without decaf options, emphasizing the pure coffee experience. The cozy atmosphere, combined with the café’s reputation for quality, makes it a place where people often share tables with fellow coffee enthusiasts, fostering a sense of community among its patrons.
  
Kaffitár Coffee House
Kaffitár represents the modern evolution of Icelandic coffee, with a focus on sustainability and quality. As a leading coffee provider, Kaffitár sources its beans from renowned coffee-growing regions and is known for its espresso bars, seasonal drinks, and as a wholesaler of coffee. Their presence in supermarkets across Iceland allows both locals and visitors to take a piece of Icelandic coffee culture home.
  
Café Babalú
Café Babalú, with its eclectic charm and vibrant orange exterior, stands out as a cozy retreat offering a range of coffee, cakes, and desserts. Known for its friendly atmosphere, it’s a place where one can enjoy unlimited refills of black coffee, making it a favorite among both locals and tourists seeking a warm, welcoming space.
  
Te og Kaffi (Tea & Coffee)
Te og Kaffi is a family-owned chain, which started in 1984, that has significantly contributed to what many call the Icelandic coffee revolution, marrying tradition with innovation to serve some of the finest coffee in the region.
With eight cafés spread across the capital, Te og Kaffi is renowned for its commitment to quality, from sourcing beans to the art of brewing, ensuring each cup reflects their dedication to the craft. Their baristas are not just skilled but also passionate about coffee, providing a warm and welcoming experience to all who visit.
Beyond just serving coffee, Te og Kaffi is deeply involved in the coffee-making process, operating their own roastery and offering a wide range of coffee-related products and training courses aimed at enhancing brewing skills and knowledge.
  
Reykjavík Röst
Reykjavík Röst is a lovely café located by the Old Harbour in Reykjavík in a beautiful turquoise colored house. It was established in the summer of 2017, and prides itself on serving quality coffee, including traditional options and innovative creations.
Some of the innovative ones include Keto coffee and beverages infused with Chaga and Reishi mushrooms, whimsically named “Magic Mushroom.” Their focus on quality extends to their food offerings as well, with a special emphasis on sourdough bread sandwiches and homemade soups, using locally sourced ingredients like Icelandic smoked salmon and lamb.
What sets Reykjavík Röst apart is not just its culinary offerings but also its cozy and welcoming atmosphere, enhanced by stunning views of the harbor. The café also takes pride in its selection of Icelandic cakes, traditional pastries. For those who enjoy a good brew, Reykjavík Röst has a selection of local beers on tap, cocktails, and a full bar available in the evenings, making it a perfect spot for both coffee aficionados and those looking to enjoy a relaxing evening by the harbor.
  
Kattakaffihúsið – The Cat Coffee House
Kattakaffihúsið, Reykjavík’s first cat café, adds a unique twist to the Icelandic coffee culture. While the concept of a cat café, originally popularized in Japan, might seem unusual in the context of Iceland, Kattakaffihúsið has found its place by offering not just a cozy café experience but also an opportunity for cat adoption.
This concept addresses the human desire for animal companionship, which in densely populated cities like Tokyo led to the creation of spaces where people could enjoy the company of pets they couldn’t have at home due to space or legal restrictions. Kattakaffihúsið brings this idea to Reykjavík with a charitable angle, aiming to provide a safe haven for cats until they find a permanent home.
  
The Reykjavík Cat Walk Tour
If you are a cat lover or are even just intrigued to see where some of these feline cuties hang out, then I think you’ll enjoy the Reykjavik Cat Walk Tour hosted by Your Friend in Reykjavik, a tour company that prides itself on offering authentic local experiences.
You can use my code ALLTHINGSICELAND (in all caps) to save 10% on your Cat Walk Tour and over 45 other tours you book with Your Friend in Reykjavik.
I have personally done this walking tour and loved it. It’s surprising how many stops there and all of the adorable cats that can be found in their usual spots, if you know where to look.
There are even cat murals and, of course, a visit to the Cat Café. This café takes in cats that need a home and they roam freely around the cafe as people enjoy their drinks and food. The whole café is decorated in a cat theme, and it is incredibly cute. It is up to the cats if they want to interact with guests and a decent number of them do. During the visit to the cafe, some delicious treats like hot cocoa or coffee and cookies are included for tour participants. This walking tour is a delightful way to learn about Reykjavik from a different perspective.
If you are curious about why dogs were banned in Reykjavík, check out this podcast episode.
Why it is worth having coffee in Reykjavík, Iceland
Each of these cafés contribute to the tapestry of Icelandic coffee culture, which is characterized by its preference for quality over quantity, the social experience of coffee drinking, and the innovative use of local and imported beans roasted to perfection within the country.
This dedication to quality and community has fostered a coffee scene that is both diverse and intimate, offering an array of experiences that reflect the spirit and warmth of Iceland itself.
Random Fact of the Episode
It is said that Árni Magnússon was the first man to drink coffee in Iceland. I guess he was quite the trend setter because the drink surged in popularity. There is an estimate that from 1819 to 1855 that imported coffee went from 5 tons per year to 213 tons per year!
Icelandic word of the episode
kaffi – coffee
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Icelandic Coffee Culture & Unique Cafés to Visit in Reykjavík

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series, where I am sharing fascinating stories from Icelandic folklore on Fridays throughout 2024.
Why Finnur is a Feared Sorcerer
A sorcerer named Finnur that lived a long time ago. So many people feared him and when he died no one wanted anything to do with the death, such as preparing the body or sewing up the shroud, which covers the dead body. Finally, one woman said she will sew the shroud. When she was doing it, some weird stuff was happening. It seems that even in death, Finnur had found ways to terrorize people. The antics that happened while she was trying to sew the shroud made her go mad.
Another Brave Woman Steps Up to Prep Finnur’s Body
After that, people were, of course, even more resistant to getting involved in prepping his body. However, another woman stepped forward and said she was up to the task. While she was sewing up the shroud it came to a point where she need to disconnect the needle from the thread, she witnessed something strange.
The corpse of Finnur said to her “You have yet to bite the needle free from the thread”. Instead of being scared, the woman boldly said, “I don’t plan on biting it. I plan on yanking it free.” That is exactly what she did and after that she took the needle she had used, broke it into two pieces and stuck it into the corpses’ feet. After doing that, the corpse of Finnur stopped playing antics nor did it bother anyone else.
I don’t know if putting needles into a corpses’ feet has some sort of significance, but I do think it is interesting that this specific action would shut him up.
Random Fact of the Episode
I am pretty sure that in a previous episode, I have spoken about the Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft Museum in Hólmavík in the Westfjords of Iceland. What might surprise people is that most of the people persecuted for doing magic in Iceland were men. At the museum, they showcases the documented executions of people who did magic and most of them happened in the Westfjords.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Galdramaður – sorcerer
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The Devious Corpse of Finnur the Sorcerer

This is the last episode in my series about the months in Iceland and what to expect.
Visiting Iceland in December is a magical experience, often described as stepping into a winter wonderland. Here’s a comprehensive guide on what you can expect, from weather conditions to the must-do activities, road conditions and more.
Weather and Average Temperature During December in Iceland
December in Iceland is quite cold, with average temperatures ranging from -1°C to 4°C (30°F to 39°F). It’s not uncommon for the temperature to drop below freezing, especially at night and in the more northern parts of the country. The weather can be unpredictable, with possible snowfall, rain, and windstorms, so it’s essential to check the forecast regularly.
  
Daylight Hours in December
One of the most distinctive features of Icelandic winters is the limited daylight. In December, the sun rises around 11:00 AM and sets by 4:00 PM, giving you about 5 hours of daylight. This unique phenomenon is due to Iceland’s high latitude.
What to Wear in December in Iceland
Layering is key to staying warm and comfortable in Iceland’s winter weather. Start with thermal underwear, add fleece or wool layers, and top with a waterproof and windproof jacket.
Don’t forget a hat, gloves, and a scarf to protect against the chill. Waterproof boots with good traction are essential for navigating icy paths.
Also, the ground is normally covered in snow and ice, so I highly recommend having your microspikes with you because those will come in handy. If the forecast is especially chilly, I often bring hand warmers with me because my hands get cold easily. Also, wool socks or some really good thermal socks come in clutch during this month too.
The link to my microspikes and where you can rent microspikes in Reykjavík.
Know exactly what to pack for Iceland by getting my free Ultimate Packing Checklist.
Road Conditions & Driving
Winter driving in Iceland can be challenging due to snow, ice, and reduced visibility. Roads can be slippery, and some might be closed due to harsh weather. It’s crucial to have a 4WD vehicle, check the road conditions at the Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration (Vegagerðin) website and Safetravel.si regularly, and be prepared for winter driving. Always have an emergency kit in your car.
The Best Local Company to Rent a Car in Iceland
Go Car Rental Iceland & Go Campers
  
Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers are the companies I recommend if you plan to rent a car or camper van in Iceland.
I use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.
They’ve also given me a link so you can save 7% on your rental, plus get a couple of really useful extras.
With Go Car Rental, you’ll save 7% and get free 4G WiFi with your rental.
With Go Campers, you’ll save 7% and get a free sleeping bag included.
You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsicelandfor the discounts.
Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.
For Go Car:When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added.
For Go Campers:Choose a sleeping bag under the “Sleeping” section, and same thing, the total price won’t increase.
And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.
Expert Trip Planning Tips for December
  
One of the best tips I have for December in Iceland is to be prepared for potential delays or cancellations because of storms. To be fair, we normally have a lot more wind and snowstorms during January and February, but they certainly can happen in December too.
Having a flexible approach to your plans is key so that you can manage your expectations. As I have mentioned in previous winter episodes, you might have to slow down if the roads are very icy and that’s ok Lastly, please heed the warnings about severe winter storms and if it is advised to stay off the road. Visitors underestimate the weather here all the time and they end up having to be rescued by Iceland’s Search and Rescue team.
Why You Should Visit Iceland in December
Despite the cold and darkness, December is a fantastic time to visit Iceland because of its unique winter beauty, and the chance to experience Icelandic Christmas traditions. If you visit during the very beginning of December there are usually less tourists but that changes are the middle of the month rolls around.
Top Activities to Do in December
  

Northern Lights: The long nights provide a perfect backdrop for viewing the aurora borealis, one of Iceland’s most sought-after experiences.
Ice Caving and Glacier Hiking: Explore stunning blue ice caves in Vatnajökull National Park or go glacier hiking on Solheimajokull.
Geothermal Pools: Relax in geothermal hot springs like the Blue Lagoon or the Sky Lagoon. The contrast of the cold air and the warm water is invigorating.
Snowmobiling and Dog Sledding: Thrill-seekers can enjoy snowmobiling on a glacier or dog sledding through winter landscapes.
Christmas Markets and Festivities: Experience Icelandic Christmas traditions and markets, especially in Reykjavik.

December Events and Holidays
  

Christmas (Jól): Icelanders celebrate Christmas with great enthusiasm, with celebrations starting on December 23rd and lasting until the 26th. Expect beautiful decorations, festive lights, and traditional events throughout the country.

Christmas Beers and spirits
Christmas Buffets
Christmas Markets


New Year’s Eve: Icelanders welcome the new year with spectacular fireworks displays, especially in Reykjavik. The sky at midnight is a sight to behold, with fireworks visible in every direction.

Shooting off fireworks
Partying downtown



I have another episode that goes more in-depth into 7 wonderful ways to experience Christmas in Iceland and that is linked in the description of this episode.
Iceland Trip Planning Resources
Before hopping into the random fact of the episode, I want to share some Iceland trip planning resources. I’ve received many amazing emails from listeners of the podcast and followers on social media asking me for my advice on what to do in Iceland. Due to the high demand for this information, I created some resources. 
Video Consultation with Me for Your Trip
  
One of the resources is that if you’re interested in getting personalized trip planning advice from me, you can book me for a consultation via this link. After you fill out a survey and pick a time that is available for both of us, we do a one-hour video chat via Google Meet.
During this time, we chat about your interest, parts of the country you want to visit, how to get the most out of your time, helpful information to know about Iceland before coming, and any questions that you have. I always feel delighted when I hear at the end of the call that people feel even more excited about their upcoming trip because of the consultation.
Make Your Own Itinerary with My Iceland Map
Another great resource is to grab full access to my Iceland map. This map was created for those who want to pick out places and hidden gems around Iceland to make up their own itinerary or add to one that they already created.
With full access, you get over 250 places that I recommend in Iceland, along with four itineraries to use for planning your trip. Those itineraries include a 10-day Ring Road trip, a 3-day South Iceland trip, The Famous Golden Circle and a Reykjanes Peninsula Day Trip.
A one-time purchase gives you lifetime access, which includes any updates I make to the map.
Here is a link to my Iceland map: rexby.com/jewells/Iceland.
Random Fact of the Episode
If you are in Iceland on December 23rd, it is when Icelanders eat Skata or fermented skate. It is a very smelly dish that can be smelled down the block. If you decide to try it, make sure to wear some clothes that are old that you can get rid of or that you don’t mind having a stench.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
December in Icelandic is spelled Desember and pronounced slightly different.
Gleðileg jól – Merry Christmas
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December in Iceland – Weather, Fun Activities, Christmas & More

This is part of my Folklore Friday series, where I am sharing an Icelandic Folklore story every Friday in 2024. 
Katla The Witch
The story today is about how Katla volcano got its name. I’ve seen the name for this folklore as “Katla the Hag”, but I’m not much a fan of that name.
Basically, there was a woman who was known as a witch, and she worked at a monastery here in Iceland. She was housekeeper for an Abbott. An Abbott is basically a person who oversees other monks. Katla was known to be a very angry person. She probably just really needed therapy I think but the fact is that she would often take out her anger on anybody.
Why Katla’s Pants Were Magical
People knew though that she had these magical pants. These magical pants which if someone were to put on, they could run so fast they would be as fast as the wind without losing breath or without getting tired. They were really cool pants but people knew she was never going to share them with anyone due to her anger, so most people steered clear of her.
Even the Abbott, who was her boss, did not like her much but I guess she was really good at her job so they kept her around.  There was a guy named Barði who was a shepherd for the Abbott and it seems that Katla had authority over him or at least she was exerting some authority over him.
Since Barði’s job was to collect the sheep, and make sure that they’re in the shed for her to be able to milk, if one of them was missing she would go berserk.  One day the Abbott and Katla were going away on a short trip and planned to be back the next day. Before leaving, Katla told Barði to have all the sheep in the shed for her when they get back or he will feel her wrath.
A Fatal Mistake
At one point Barði went to find the sheep but he was having a hard time finding all of them. This made him freak out a little because he knew Katla would be very angry if he didn’t get this done.
So, he had the brilliant idea of putting on Katla’s magical pants and ran around to get the sheep. It worked like a charm and he put the pants away before Katla and the Abbott returned.
When Katla returned, she knew immediately that he had worn her pants and her blood was boiling. In a fit of rage, she drowned him in a vat of whey and submerge the body in the bottom, which is disgusting because obviously people are using this whey.
As time went on, the level of the whey in the vat was getting lower which would mean that at some point people were going to see his body. Some people said they often heard Katla say that Barði will soon appear while standing next to the whey.
Why the Volcano is Named Katla
It must’ve been that it got to point where she thought the body is going to surface any time now, so hightailed it out of there to avoid getting in trouble for this. So she put on her pants, and she headed towards Mýrdalsjökull glacier going as fast as possible.
She threw herself into the canyon and everyone assumed that she died in there because it was a volcano that she supposedly fell into. A short time after she threw herself in there was a huge volcanic eruption that caused a massive flood because there is a glacier above the volcano.
Due to this volcanic eruption, the volcano was named after Katla.
Random Fact of the Episode
According to the Icelandic Meteorological Office, “The Katla volcanic system is the fourth most active system in Iceland and has erupted at least 21 times during the last 1100 years”
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Katla – kettle 
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Katla The Witch & Her Magical Pants – Folklore Friday

This is part of my Folklore Friday series, where I am sharing an Icelandic Folklore story every Friday in 2024. 
The upcoming story is based on a description of the Ox-Whale in the book “Meeting with Monsters – An Illustrated Guide to the Beasts of Iceland” by Jón Baldur Hlíðberg and Sigurður Ægisson. It is an awesome book and I highly recommend getting if you like to read about creatures that many claim to be real around Iceland. Jón is one of the owners of The Icelandic Sea Monster Museum in the Westfjords. If you are planning to travel in that part of Iceland, be sure to visit that museum.
Why The Icelandic Ox Whale is so Terrifying
In the far reaches of Iceland, where the cold Atlantic whispers ancient secrets, there exists a creature as old as the sagas themselves, known among the folk as the Ox Whale, or ‘nauthveli’. Shrouded in the mists of time, its tales are woven into the very fabric of Icelandic lore, emerging from the depths in hushed tones only by the light of the hearth.
The first whispers of this maritime specter stirred not from ink upon parchment but from the lips of weathered seafarers, whose ancestors cast wary glances upon the churning waves. It was in the twilight of the 13th century that the earliest murmurs danced upon the winds, speaking of a leviathan, a ghostly echo of the cow-whale, its kin cloaked in mystery and shadow.
As the hands of time turned to the year of 1590, a chilling portrait emerged from the veiled past. The Ox Whale, a creature of unfathomable hunger and wrath, was no mere beast of the deep but a herald of doom. Its call, a terrifying bellow, resonated like the fury of a tempest, shaking the very bones of the earth, sending ripples of dread through the hearts of those who heard it.
This monstrous denizen of the abyss, driven by insatiable greed, prowled the oceans, its eyes alight with the hunger for prey, casting a shadow of fear over any who dared to venture into its domain.
What an Ox Whale Does to Cows
In time, tales of its dread visage grew darker still. By 1638, it was said to bear a likeness to the horse-whale, yet marked by its haunting cry, a sound so petrifying that it could curdle the blood of the bravest souls. By 1666, its enormity was unveiled, a behemoth among the toothed whales, its flesh anathema, its presence a bane to the vessels of man.
The dawn of the 18th century bore witness to a new horror; its bellow, an eldritch call, ensnared the minds of cattle, drawing them, spellbound, into the maw of the abyss. This sinister enchantment was proven at Hjortsey farm, a grim testament to the Ox Whale’s malevolent lure.
As the mid-century approached, the enigma deepened. Though its form eluded the gaze of man, it was believed to bear the head of a bull, a monstrous aberration that bellowed with such might that the earth itself seemed to tremble in fear. It was a phantom of fog and shadow, forbidding all who heard its call from braving the treacherous embrace of the sea.
The tale took a grim turn in 1786 on the shores of Grimsey, where the beast’s insatiable appetite was laid bare in a macabre dance of death with a doomed cow, a spectacle of cruelty that echoed the darkest fables.
The Physical Description of an Ox Whale
As the 19th century dawned, a mariner’s account cast a new light upon this enigma of the deep, describing it as a chimera of bull and serpent, a creature of haunting beauty and terror, a paradox of nature’s design.
The lore of the Ox Whale, a mosaic of fear, wonder, and the unfathomable, permeates the essence of Iceland’s maritime heritage, a lingering shadow in the realm of legend and truth. And so it remains, a whispered enigma, a ghostly presence forever etched into the annals of Icelandic folklore, its legacy enduring in the silent depths, where the sea meets the sky.
Random Fact of the Episode
According to the book, a male born in 1879 reported that between 1890 and 1896, people who had been on a trading trip to Eyrarbakki in the south coast of Iceland said that the bay there had been full of Ox whales. They knew because they could hear the bellowing of the creatures.
Due to the Ox Whale being there, the people living in the village were not allowed to let their cows go outside. If they did, the cows would get agitated and show signs of dashing toward the sea.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Nauthveli – Ox Whale
If you are enjoying the All Things Iceland podcast, please leave a written review if possible. It helps others to know what they will hear about and why you like the show. If you are only able to leave a star rating on the plaform you are listening to this on, that is greatly appreciated too.
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Iceland’s Ox-Whale Terrified People For Centuries – Folklore Friday

This is the second response episode for my new segment “Ask Jewells Anything About Iceland”. Thank you to everyone who sent in questions and if you would like to submit a question, you can do it here.
1. “What do Icelanders generally like and dislike about Americans?” – Garrett
In general, I’d say that Icelanders don’t have a lot of dislikes when it comes specifically to Americans. It is more like dislikes of tourist in general. So, if you are respectful of the the people and language, Icelanders are very open to those who want to visit.
That being said, there are some things that come up that can be a little bothersome for Icelanders that wouldn’t be considered as strange in the US.
The first that comes to mind is that many Americans are not comfortable showering naked before entering the swimming pool. The changing rooms are separated by gender. In order to not use as much chlorine in the local swimming pools, showering without your bathing suit on is a requirement.
Americans are the largest group of tourists to Iceland and kind of shy when it comes to this rule, so it is normally assumed that a person is from the US if they try to skip showering naked before entering the pool.
Also, many Icelanders don’t agree with how the political system in the US is set up. I mentioned this in my last ask me anything answers, that only having two political parties to choose from for higher political offices is a strange and foreign thing to Icelanders.
Things Icelanders like a lot about the US during World War 2 and it was shut down in 1994. During those decades, the US’s influence on Icelandic culture exponentially grew. Icelander’s like American TV shows, food like pizza, burgers and fries, as well as celebrities, other media, and trends.
2. “On my recent trip to Iceland, I didn’t see any Dolly Parton imagery. Does the amazing Ms. Parton have any major influence on the country and does Iceland have a favorite Dolly song?” – Rob
Dolly Parton is certainly beloved by many in Iceland, as she is around the world. It is not often that you will see posters of American or even foreign celebrities in Iceland unless it is promoting a concert or a product.
It might surprise some people to know that a decent number of Icelanders like country music. It makes sense when you think about how most of Iceland is like a rural place with lots of farmland in the US than a bustling city. 
My guess for favorite Dolly song is Jolene but a close second might be 9 to 5. Since Dolly Parton has been iconic as a performer and song writer, and Iceland has a ton of musical artists, there is no doubt in my mind that she has influenced many people here. 
3. “Ha ha the motherland! Just stumbled upon your podcast. Most of my family lives there still! My grandpa was Air Force back when Kelkajvik had an Air Foce base. Don’t they have the best hotdogs? Have you done well watching tour yet? My cousin Owns a company that does it, haven’t been back in 8 years, need to leave America before it Darkens my soul. Watch out for them elves the old father is watching” – Nat
Hi Nat. This is such a fun share. I do believe that Iceland has some of the best hot dogs, if not the best. Granted, I have not eaten a hot dog made from an animal in almost 9 years but I remember it being tasty and many visitors attest to this as well. One awesome thing is that the vegan version is delicious too.
Yes, I have been whale watching in Húsavík in North Iceland with a company called North Sailing.
I hope you do come back to visit in the near future.
Yes, the elves are all around us. While I try to be mindful of them, the trolls are the ones I am most concerned about.
4. “Hi Jewells, I would like to know more about how you learned Icelandic. Your pronunciation sounds like native to me! 🙂 I started learning Icelandic as well half a year ago (after I visited Iceland for the first time) but I really struggle with the pronunciation. Do you have some tips? Thank you and keep up with the great podcast! Greetings from Prague!” – Alexandra
My journey to learn Icelandic has been fun, frustrating, and all types of emotions in between. I still tell people that I am working on being fluent because I don’t want to be held responsible for any terrible mistakes that I am bound to make.
Pronunciation of Icelandic like a native speaker is by far one of the tougher parts of the language. Of course, declining of words is harder but I think pronunciation is a close second. The one thing that helped me the most with pronouncing Icelandic words as close to native speaking as possible was to ask a native speaker to constantly correct me when I spoke.
When I was married to Gunnar, he was the person correcting me the most but I also asked my co-workers and friends because I was determined to get it right. Doing this can cause a lot of frustration because there are sounds in Icelandic that might be foreign to your mouth or mother tongue. I also think listening to a lot of Icelandic helps too but the key is to have a teacher or friend who speaks Icelandic well to help you.
It is also helpful to know that some people speak Icelandic with an accent. Meaning, they don’t sound like a native speaker when they talk the language but what they are saying is correct. That is totally fine and there is no reason to beat yourself up because you don’t sound Icelandic.
However, your question was mainly about pronunciation so I am addressing that. I am still a stickler with how I say things even to the point where I am over pronouncing words and I am learning to say things more colloquially. The more you learn Icelandic, the more you will hear that Icelanders don’t always pronounce every part of the word. That can cause some confusion at times but with practice and a trained ear, you will pick up on it.
If you don’t already, I would look into private lessons with an Icelandic teacher to work on your pronunciation, if you don’t already have one. iTalki is one place that has teachers. Also, there is Icelandic Made Eas(ier) by Siggi. Lastly, there is a great app called LingQ, where you can hear and read in Icelandic from different sources online, like videos, songs, and so on. It is awesome and the premium version is totally free for those learning Icelandic.
Viltu læra íslensku? and Íslenska fyrir alla are other resources for learning Icelandic and hearing it spoken.
5. “What are the best dishes to try when eating out in Iceland? When I want to splurge on meals out, I want them to be good.” – Leah
Please keep in mind that I am 100% plant-based and have been for many years but I am still aware of the meals that people typically try when they come here. If you are a meat and fish eater, then lamb, arctic char, salmon, and cod are very popular here.
Michelin star restaurants

Dill
Öx
Moss Restaurant

Other Restaurants

Kol
Kopar
The Fish Company – Fiskifélagið
The Grill Market – Grillmarkaðurinn
The Fish Market – fiskmarkaðurinn
Duck and Rose
Sumac
Mat Bar
Tides in the 5-star Hotel called the Reykjavík Edition

I normally like to order the 3 course or 5 course menu at places because when I normally do the math, it comes out to be less expensive than a la carte.
6. “Heading to Iceland at the end of May! Best places to get good coffee?” – Alison

Reykjavík Röst
Mokka Kaffi
Kaffitár
Reykjavík Roasters
Te og kaffi

7. “What quintessential Iceland souvenirs do you recommend bringing back home? An authentic sweater is out of my price range, but I would like to buy some gifts for others and myself.” – Christina C.

Icelandic Candies
Icelandic chocolates – Some of the most popular ones are from Nóí Sírius, Góa, and Freyja
Sea salt from Iceland that has different herbs and flavors
Alcohol – vodka, beer, gin, and other spirits made in Iceland. You can get small bottles at the airport duty free shop, which is less expense.
Hats
Mittens
Jewelry
Skin care products from the Blue Lagoon and Sóley
Books
Hot dogs and their toppings

Some places to get inexpensive souvenirs or gifts are grocery stores like Krónan, Bónus, Hagkaup, as well as the flea market called Kolaportið. Also, the National Museum of Iceland has a shop and you can possibly find some inexpensive items there too.
8. “Where should we drive around Reykjavik (or Vik) to hunt for the northern lights? Looking for somewhere to park within maybe a half hour with a good dark view” – Christina S.

Heiðmörk
Grotta lighthouse
Perlan
Lighthouse on Saebraut across from Hofdi house
Sun Voyager
Hafravatn

9. “Hi Jewells! We will be in southern, west and northern parts of iceland in early April. Is there any chance of seeing puffins this early? If so, where would be the best place? Thank you :)” – Sasha C.
Typically, puffins come to Iceland in May and stay until mid August. Unfortunately, when you come Puffins will not be here yet.
Tjörnes Peninsula and grímsey island are places in north Iceland where you can see puffins. You can also see Puffins in Dyrhólaey, and the Westman Islands.
10. “Hi, what would be one or two extra special food related experiences for a passionate foodie coming to Iceland in the spring?” – Alison G.
A food walking tour in Reykjavik. Here is a popular one where you can save 10% on the tour. The Food Lovers Tour by Your Friend in Reykjavík
Use the code ALLTHINGSICELAND in all caps to save 10%
The restaurants that I mentioned in an earlier question will definitely be great experiences.
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Ask Jewells Anything About Iceland – Response Episode 2

This modern-day folklore mixes the supernatural with Iceland’s gorgeous landscape. It all starts with a man named Dillon, a Brit that had traveled to Iceland many times. One day he claims to have been contacted by aliens who told him to gather people in Iceland on November 5th, 1993 because they were going to be on Snæfellsjökull glacier that day. According to Dillon, his information was backed up by a woman who had been abducted and saw visions of the event happening on that day.
The plot thickens as a conference was held before the event that attracted over 500 people who were interested in UFOs and possibly seeing aliens. This group wasn’t your average gathering. According to those who attended, there were people from the US Military, CIA, FBI, and British police.
Thousands Showed Up to Possibly See Aliens
When November 5th arrived in 1993, thousands of people showed up. Even a camera crew from CNN came out. As people waited, they sang songs and kept in good spirits. As time passed, it was becoming evident that no aliens had been seen.
Or at least, they decided not to make themselves seen. Well, that is what some people think happens. There have been accountants of individuals saying that maybe the large crowd scared off the aliens or that they did come but decided to remain hidden. Either way, no one saw them that day.
Random Fact of the Episode
According to a Reykjavík Grapevine article published in 2022,


				“There have been at least 170 documented incidents of UFO sightings or contacts in Iceland and of those stories, The UFO Association in Iceland (Sálarrannsóknarfélag Íslands) figure that 30 of those can be said to be “credible”. Not only that, the US Army has also listed 19 cases of UFOs in Iceland.”			

Here is a link to the article, if you would like to check it out.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Geimvera – alien
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Aliens on Snæfellsjökull Glacier? – Folklore Friday

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series, where I am sharing fascinating stories from Icelandic folklore on Fridays throughout 2024.
This week’s tale is about a talented human midwife who ends up with a special ability after helping some elves. Please note that there is a violent act shared in this story and you may not deem it appropriate for young kids.
A Talented Icelandic Midwife Is Beckoned By Elves
One day, an Icelandic human midwife was approached by elves for help with a high-ranking elf that was in labor but was having complications. For those who are not aware about Icelandic elves, we can’t see them unless they allow it. It’s said that Icelandic elves live in a parallel world to us, and they can jump in between worlds. Basically, it’s a privilege if any human gets to see and/or encounter one.
The midwife was rushed to help the elf in labor, and she did such a great job that they elves bestowed a gift upon her. They rubbed some ointment into one of her eyes and that gave her the ability to see the elf world. This meant she could see any elf wherever she went. Along with the gift was a warning to never reveal to anyone that she has this gift. Not surprisingly, she was giddy and excited about this new ability she was given. As time passed by, she did get used to having this special sight and did not tell anyone.
An Unlucky Twist of Fate Changes the Midwife’s Life
However, one fateful day she made a mistake. She saw an elf in a shop and let the elf know she could see them. The elf she spoke to was a woman and was quite shocked that a human could see her. After getting over the shock, the elf woman asked the midwife “With which eye can you see me?”
After the midwife answered the question, the elf woman proceeded to poke the midwife in the eye with the special ointment until she was blind. Yea, quite intense. Another version of this story that I’ve heard is that the elf woman spits in the midwife’s eye instead of poking it, which resulted in her losing her special ability.
Books About Icelandic Folklore

The Guardians of Iceland and other Icelandic Folk Tales
Icelandic Folk Legends: Tales of Apparitions, Outlaws, and Things Unseen
The Little Book of the Hidden People: Twenty Stories of Elves from Icelandic Folklore
Icelandic Folk Tales

Random Fact of the Episode
According to the Icelandic Elf School in Reykjavík, there are 50 different types of elves. Yes, you heard that right, there is an elf school.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Álfheimar – elf world
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The Icelandic Midwife & the Elves – Folklore Friday

A quick but fascinating Icelandic folklore tale about Naustahvilft. According to the legend, a troll was hurrying home to avoid being turned into stone by the sun that was going to rise soon. She was traveling quickly enough that she was ahead of schedule and was able to stop to rest.
The area that she stopped is Ísafjörður, the fjord where the largest town in the Westfjords is located. The troll’s feet were aching so she sat down on the mountain to rest. The shear weight of her made an indent in the mountain with her rear as soon as she sat down.
Please note that trolls are gigantic figures in Icelandic folklore, so it is possible for them to have this impact on a mountain. When the troll got up to continue her journey, the imprint of her rear was left. That indent was then nicknamed “Troll’s Seat”.

The view from Naustahvilft
Random Fact of the Episode
There is a short but steep trail here that I loved hiking. I think it took me around 30 minutes to reach the top but I was huffing and puffing at the end because the steepness does get intense. However, the views on a nice day are incredible. For a little bit of effort, you are rewarded with views of the fjord. If you spend some time up there, you might even see some planes taking off or landing.
Like other hikes in Iceland, there is normally a guest book you can sign at the top that is being kept safe from the harsh weather in a metal box.  There is a space for cars to park for this trail but it can be hard to miss so drive a little slower when you getting close to the location, so you easily make the turn into the small lot.
Books About Icelandic Folklore


The Guardians of Iceland and other Icelandic Folk Tales
Icelandic Folk Legends: Tales of Apparitions, Outlaws, and Things Unseen
The Little Book of the Hidden People: Twenty Stories of Elves from Icelandic Folklore
Icelandic Folk Tales


Icelandic Word of the Episode
Ísafjörður – ice fjord
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Naustahvilft: The Troll Seat in the West Fjords – Folklore Friday

This is the first response episode for my new segment “Ask Jewells Anything About Iceland”. Thank you to everyone who sent in questions and if you would like to submit a question, you can do it here.
Questions sent in from the listeners of the All Things Iceland Podcast
1. Can you please discuss some of the history of Ravens in Iceland. I was delighted to hear about some mischievous Ravens by Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, who were working in tandem to collect and confiscate tourist’s goods. Do we know when they arrived in Iceland and how has their presence impacted Icelandic culture?
There are several stories relating to Iceland that involve ravens. The first that pops into my mind has to do with Óðinn, the Norse God, that had two Ravens. They were named Huginn (thought) and Muninn (memory or mind). They flew around the world (Midgard) and brough back information to Óðinn. Because Norse people settled in Iceland, the belief and worship of Óðinn came with them.
Another story that comes to mind is of Hrafna-Flóki. He was a Norse Viking that is said to have given Iceland its name. He didn’t stay in Iceland because he encountered a very harsh winter where he almost didn’t survive. However, before he left he went on top of a mountain in the fjord and saw that the fjord was packed with ice. Due to that, he called this place the land of ice or “Iceland”.
2. Hello. We are taking a cruise out of Reykjavik with NCL and looking to arrive a few days early to explore. We will be renting a car with Go Car Rental and wanted to know the best way to get from their Reykjavik office to the cruise port in September upon our rental return? The cruise port is Skarfabakki. Thank you for your input!
The easiest way to get from Go Car Rental Iceland‘s Skógarhlíð location in Reykjavík to Skarfabakki is to take a taxi. It is about 9 minutes by car, so it will not be very expensive. The name of a taxi company to use is Hreyfill.
3. If there was only one beautiful place in Iceland you could visit which one would it be?
This is such a tough question. I know that only one place was requested but I will provide two. One is more remote and that is Eldgjá in the Icelandic highlands. The other is the Westman Islands, which is much easier to access. To learn about all of the places I enjoy around the country, including hidden gems, check out My Iceland Map.
4. Thank you for your informative entertaining podcast. Do you need to drive in order to fully enjoy Iceland? I’m a passenger princess and don’t know how I would get around if I don’t come with someone who drives.
You can definitely be a passenger princess and still see Iceland. I suggest taking tours that are for small groups. It is more intimate than the big buses and you see as much of the country as you want. On this website you can find many day tour and multi-day tour options.
5. How do people in Iceland view the political climate in the US???
The answer to this can be long because it involves so many layers. In short, the Icelanders I have spoken to have often been confused about what is happening politically in the US. Not that they don’t understand how the system operates but wondering why it is allowed to be the way it is. An example is that politics in the US is dominated by two parties. There is also a lot of extremism and it seems that politicians often want to pass laws or vote for laws that undermine the safety and rights of their constituents.
6. Can you please slow down and maybe even spell out that names of places you mention in your podcast? It’s a wonderful podcast but it is so difficult to understand Icelandic names without seeing them in print (and even then it’s difficult)!
I totally understand that it can be hard to listen to the podcast and not understand how to spell the words I am saying in Icelandic. One of the reasons I write a lot of notes here on my website is so that you can reference it to see what the words look like that I talk about in the episode.
7. What wildlife can I expect to see on a trip to Iceland, and where can I find them?
This list of where to find animals in Iceland is specifically for during the summer months (May – September in most cases).

Icelandic sheep – roaming around in the countryside everywhere
Icelandic horses – grazing in fields or on a horseback riding trip
Icelandic cows – grazing in fields
Goats – grazing in fields (not many of them)
Whales – on a tour out at sea
Reindeer in the east (roaming free)
Puffins – Látrabjarg, Grímsey, Dyrhólaey, Westman Islands, Borgarfjörður Eystri in East Iceland, off the shore in a boat in Reykjavík.
Seals (They live all around Iceland, but the best places to spot them are the Westfjords, the Vatnsnes Peninsular, the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, and the Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon, Hvammstangi
Mink – probably will not see them
Rodent – in the countryside
Orcas – out at sea
Porpoise – out at sea
Icelandic sheep dog – at a farm working hard
Arctic fox – at the Arctic Fox center in the Westfjords, Hornstrandir in the Westfjords, and sometimes roaming around
Puffins – Borgarfjörður Eystri in East Iceland, Látrabjarg in the Westfjords, off the shore in a boat in Reykjavík, Dyrhólaey,

8. What are some “hidden gem” spots on the South Coast of Iceland?
It is getting tougher to have hidden gems on the south coast but here are three:

Nauthúsagil
Gluggafoss
The path beyond the steps at Skógafoss waterfall. When you go that path in the summer you can see multiple waterfalls and hardly any people. This is a highland path but you don’t need to take it all the way into the highlands to enjoy.

9. How difficult is finding food in Iceland for people with dietary restrictions? (ex. Gluten or Dairy-Free)
Thankfully, it is not difficult. All the food markets have food like this, such as Krónan, Bónus, Hagkaup, and Nettó. Most restaurants have at least one option, if not multiple options on their menus.
10. I will be in Akureyri with my family in June on Independence Day. What can we expect to see for festivities?
The National Day of Iceland which is on June 17th is very important celebration for the people of Akureyri and everyone around the country. The town is decorated with flags and a full celebratory program. Here is a link to the 2023 program to give you an idea of what to expect.
There will be a parade, concerts, games, performances, and lots of food. I hope you and your family have a lovely time.
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Ask Jewells Anything About Iceland – Response Episode 1

For this episode of Folklore Friday we’re diving into the chilling tales and explosive history of Iceland’s very own Mount Hekla, often dubbed as the “Gateway to Hell”!
Hekla Volcano’s Eruption Patterns & Destructive Past
Our story begins in the year 1104, when Hekla made its grand entrance into the annals of volcanic history with a bang!
Since the 1970s, this fiery beauty has been quite punctual, gracing us with a spectacle roughly every decade. However, she’s been holding back since her last performance in February 2000, leaving us all on the edge of our seats, waiting for her next big show.
But why the ominous nickname, you ask? Well, Hekla’s notoriety isn’t just smoke and mirrors. Picture this: the year 1300, a massive eruption tears through the mountain, the colossal roar echoing to the far reaches of the north. The skies darken with ash, casting a shadow so dense, the brave souls who once sailed for their daily catch dare not venture into the blackened seas.
The aftermath? A trail of destruction, earthquakes that shook the land, farms crumbling to dust, and a devastating famine claiming around 500 lives. This wasn’t a one-off event; Hekla’s wrath has been felt through the ages, leaving behind tales of despair and devastation.
Why Hekla Was Dubbed “The Gateway to Hell”
During the dark and mystic times of the Middle Ages, the European clergy painted Hekla as the very doorstep to the netherworld. Perhaps their imagination wasn’t too far off, even if it was a tad dramatic! Rumors swirled of Satan’s abode lying within its fiery depths, witches convening in its shadow to pay homage to their infernal master, and the damned being whisked away by avian carriers to the volcano’s gaping maws.
Such were the tales that shrouded Hekla in an impenetrable veil of superstition and dread. For centuries, its slopes remained untouched by human footsteps, its peak a forbidden realm, believed to house the entrance to hell itself. The whispers of the clergy echoed across Europe, casting Icelandic volcanoes, Hekla in particular, as undeniable proof of the devil’s dwelling beneath our very feet.
Is Hekla a Safe Place Now?
It wasn’t until the bold year of 1750 that curiosity (or perhaps foolhardiness) led the first climbers to defy the myths and scale Hekla’s heights. Contrary to the fearsome legends, they found no gateway to the underworld but instead unveiled the rugged beauty of this majestic volcano.
Today, Hekla stands not as a feared specter but as a beacon for hikers, its slopes a testament to the courage that overcomes fear. Please note that it is still an active volcano and an eruption can still happen. If you plan to visit please check to see if there is any increased activity in the area, like earthquakes.
The tale of Hekla, a volcano shrouded in myth yet bursting with natural wonder. Whether you’re drawn by its dark folklore or the call of adventure, Hekla remains a captivating chapter in Iceland’s rich tapestry of legends and landscapes. Who knows, maybe your next trek will be along the legendary slopes of the so-called “Gateway to Hell” – just don’t expect to bump into any witches or find a stairway to the underworld!
Books About Icelandic Folklore

The Guardians of Iceland and other Icelandic Folk Tales
Icelandic Folk Legends: Tales of Apparitions, Outlaws, and Things Unseen
The Little Book of the Hidden People: Twenty Stories of Elves from Icelandic Folklore
Icelandic Folk Tales

Random Fact of the Episode
Eggert Ólafsson and Bjarni Pálsson are the names of the two people that summited the mountain in 1750. After dispelling the taboo that climbing Hekla meant going to hell, meeting the devil or some witches, the mountain has become a popular place for hikers and climbers.
The Icelandic Word of the Episode
The name Hekla can mean a comb for linen or a cloak, such as a cloak of mist. It’s believed that Hekla mountain might have looked like a comb for linen back in the day but after many eruptions, its shape has changed. The latter meaning of a cloak of mist is fitting because there is often mist hovering around the volcano’s summit.
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Is Hekla Volcano the Gateway to Hell in Iceland? – Folklore Friday

As of January 15th, 2024, Keflavík International Airport (KEF) has stated that they are gearing up to host a whopping 8.5 million passengers this year, making it one of their busiest years ever. Yep, you heard it right, this little volcanic island is becoming more of a hotspot than ever before!
I know 8.5 million sounds like a lot, because it is, but I will put that into context during this episode because there much more to the story.
Why 2024 Can Be a Record-Breaking Year in Iceland?
So, what’s the scoop? Well, compared to last year, we’re looking at a 9.6% jump in visitors. This is both during the bustling summer months and the magical, aurora-filled winters, which usually have less people.
This year, a record-breaking 2.38 million international visitors are expected to actually visit Iceland, edging past the previous record set back in 2018. The growth isn’t just in the summer; winter tourism is getting a big boost too, with a 13.4% increase in visitors braving the cold for some icy adventures.
But it’s not just about sightseeing. With more people passing through, about 30% are just here for a quick layover. Still, every visit counts, and it’s a great chance for folks to get a taste of Iceland, even if it’s just a glimpse from the airport.
When the airport reports numbers like 8.5 million passengers, they are counting departures, arrivals, and transfers. For 2024, the number of departures is estimated to be about 2.98 mil, arrivals are about 2.99 mil, and transfers are about 2.5 mil. After rounding up, you have 8.5 million passengers.
  
Keflavík International Airport is Expanding to Meet the Demand
Guðmundur Daði Rúnarsson, the guy steering the ship at KEF, is all in on this uptick, especially the winter warriors coming to enjoy Iceland in its frosty glory. It’s great for business and even better for showing off our year-round appeal.
And to make sure everyone’s visit is smooth and enjoyable, KEF’s been on a bit of a building spree. Last year saw new spaces for check-ins and luggage, plus a shiny new taxiway to keep things moving smoothly. And there’s more on the horizon, with a new wing set to open later this year, packing in more gates and even more spots for shopping and dining. 
Now, you might wonder how KEF figures all this out. It’s all about keeping a keen eye on travel trends, checking out airline schedules, and crunching numbers to predict how many folks will be coming through.
Rules Changing For Visitors to Iceland that ae From Outside the Schengen area 
And with all these visitors, there’s going to be a buzz around the new ETIAS system kicking off in May 2025. The ETIAS is The European Travel Information and Authorisation System.
It’s a new travel requirement for a lot of international visitors, so with Iceland’s popularity soaring, the ETIAS applications are expected to go through the roof, especially with those extra winter visitors.
From the ETIAS website:


				“It was announced by the European Commission in November 2016 and was implemented into legislation in September 2018. The intention of forming the system was to improve the security of EU member states within the Schengen region by capturing data on travellers that currently visit the area without a visa.
The ETIAS will pre-screen travellers from “third-countries”, who are citizens from countries not needing a Schengen Visa. The screening would pertain to terrorism or migration related risks. The objective is to identify individuals who pose security threats before they are able to travel to the Schengen area.
ETIAS is not a visa, it is a visa waiver, similar to the U.S. ESTA and Canadian eTA. Travelers currently visiting European Member countries visa-free, will require an ETIAS in 2025 onwards. Passport holders of the EU single market are exempt from ETIAS.”
			

What Visitors to Iceland Need to Know
The increase in visitors, especially during the summer, means that booking your accommodations, and vehicle rental as soon as possible will ensure that you have the places you want to stay and car you want to drive handled. The demand for those are very high. I highly recommend booking at least 5 months before you arrive in summer but 6-8 is better.
  
Best Local Car Rental Company in Iceland
I want to give a shout-out to Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers.
I personally use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.
They’ve also given me a link so you can save 7% on your rental, plus get a couple of really useful extras.
With Go Car Rental, you’ll save 7% and get free 4G WiFi with your rental.
With Go Campers, you’ll save 7% and get a free sleeping bag included.
You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsicelandfor the discounts.
Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.
For Go Car:When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added.
For Go Campers:Choose a sleeping bag under the “Sleeping” section, and same thing, the total price won’t increase.
And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.
How an Increase in Visitors is Potentially Impacting Iceland’s Population
This surge in tourism isn’t just great for postcard sales; it’s making Iceland an even more appealing spot for folks thinking about a longer stay. With its stunning scenery and top-notch quality of life, who wouldn’t want to stick around? Plus, with new policies making it easier for students and remote workers to set up shop here, Iceland’s not just a vacation spot – it’s becoming a place to call home.
As KEF gears up for this tourist boom, it’s clear that Iceland’s allure is only getting stronger. With the airport expanding and improving, it’s ready to welcome people from around the world – and maybe convince a few to stay a little longer. Here’s to a bustling, vibrant Iceland, ready to enchant even more visitors in 2024!
Random Fact of the Episode
December 2024 is the month with the largest % increase that is forecasted for tourists at 21.4% and October has the least amount of % increase forecasted, which is -.9%.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Spá – forecast
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Will 2024 Be One of Iceland’s Busiest Tourism Years Ever?

At the famous, beautiful, and dangerous Reynisfjara black sand beach there are three sea stacks clearly visible out in the ocean. They look as though they have popped up out of nowhere but there is a story behind their existence.
Legend has it that two trolls were trying to pull a ship to shore during the middle of the night. However, they lost track of time and since this was during the warmer seasons when we have shorter nights, the sun came up sooner than they thought.
Any troll caught in the sunlight turns to stone and that is exactly what happened to them. It’s said that the three rock pillars are the two trolls and the ship they were dragging. Not sure why the ship would also turn to stone but that is the story.
Random Fact of the Day
The beach’s signature black sand is a result of lava flow reaching the sea and cooling quickly. The molten hot lava being rapidly cooled by the cold sea makes the solid lava crack into little pieces. Those pieces are then eroded over time and become a rough sand.
Icelandic Word of the Day
Reynisfjara – Beach of Reynir. One story I have read says that  Reynir was a Viking from Norway that was one of the first to settle in this area. Another says that it was named by Björn from Valdresi in Norway. Either way, the beach is named after a Reynir.
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Check out more Icelandic folklore stories here.
Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

The Famous Trolls of Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach – Folklore Friday

Visiting Iceland in October offers a unique and captivating experience, characterized by its transitional weather, diminished crowds, and the chance to witness the Northern Lights. 
Previous Episodes About Months in Iceland

January in Iceland
February in Iceland
March in Iceland
April in Iceland
May in Iceland
June in Iceland
July in Iceland
August in Iceland
September in Iceland

Weather and Average Temperature

Temperature Range: October in Iceland sees average temperatures ranging from 2°C to 7°C (36°F to 45°F). The weather is cool and often wet, with frequent rain showers.
Weather Variability: Expect variable weather conditions. Days can be crisp and clear or windy and rainy.

  
Daylight Hours in October in Iceland

Decreasing Daylight: October marks a significant shift in daylight hours in Iceland. The month starts with about 11.5 hours of daylight and ends with around 8 hours, signaling the approach of the darker winter months.

What to Wear in Iceland During October

Layered Clothing: Essential for adapting to Iceland’s unpredictable weather. Include waterproof and windproof jackets, warm sweaters, thermal underlayers, and sturdy, waterproof footwear.
Accessories: Don’t forget hats, gloves, and scarves for extra warmth, especially when exploring outdoors.

My Ultimate Packing Checklist is linked in the show notes and will provide you with everything you need to bring. I recommend following the winter list, especially toward the end of the month because it is noticeably colder and darker.
 
 
Road Conditions & Driving in October

Road Conditions: Generally stable, but be prepared for occasional icy patches or snow, especially in northern regions.
Driving Tips: Stay updated with the weather forecast and road conditions. Daylight hours are decreasing, so plan your travels accordingly. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are recommended for more rugged terrains.

Expert Trip Planning Tip for Iceland in October
Due to decent day light hours, good road conditions, and relatively warm weather, October can be a nice shoulder season month for people to visit who want to avoid the crowds. Driving to different parts of the country is still quite easy, meaning hardly any snow or ice, especially during the beginning and middle of the month. So, I recommend renting a car or a camper van.
  
The Best Company to Rent a Car or Camper Van in Iceland
I want to give a shout-out to Go Car Rental Iceland and Go Campers.
I personally use their cars and campers when I travel around Iceland, and I’ve partnered with them for over 4 years now. The main reasons? Their customer service is amazing, and they have a wide range of vehicles to choose from.
They’ve also given me a link so you can save 7% on your rental, plus get a couple of really useful extras.
With Go Car Rental, you’ll save 7% and get free 4G WiFi with your rental.
With Go Campers, you’ll save 7% and get a free sleeping bag included.
You can head to gorentals.is/allthingsicelandfor the discounts.
Once you enter your travel dates, the 7% discount is automatically applied.
For Go Car:When you get to the extras section, select 4G WiFi. You’ll see the price stays the same, even though it has been added.
For Go Campers:Choose a sleeping bag under the “Sleeping” section, and same thing, the total price won’t increase.
And just so you know, using my link gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. It’s one of the ways you’re supporting All Things Iceland and the content I create. Thank you in advance for that.
  
Why You Should Visit Iceland in October

Less Crowded: With the high season tapering off, you’ll find fewer tourists, making it easier to enjoy Iceland’s natural beauty more peacefully.
Aurora Borealis: The darkening skies increase the chances of witnessing the Northern Lights, a truly magical experience.
Autumn Colors: The landscape turns into a beautiful palette of autumn colors, enhancing the scenic beauty.

Top Activities to Do in October

Northern Lights Hunting: With longer nights, October is a great time to chase the Aurora Borealis.
Hot Springs and Geothermal Pools: The cooler weather makes soaking in Iceland’s famous hot springs even more enjoyable.
Hiking and Outdoor Adventures: Enjoy the stunning autumn scenery with activities like hiking, horseback riding, and glacier tours.

  
October Events and Holidays in Iceland

Reykjavík International Film Festival: A popular event showcasing a wide range of domestic and international films. September to October – https://riff.is/en/
Imagine Peace Tower Lighting: Commemorates John Lennon’s birthday on October 9th and is lit until December 9th, his death anniversary. https://www.imaginepeacetower.com/
Halloween: Although not traditionally celebrated, it has gained popularity, with various events and parties, especially in Reykjavík.

  
Iceland Trip Planning Resources
Before hopping into the random fact of the episode, I want to share some Iceland trip planning resources. I’ve received many amazing emails from listeners of the podcast and followers on social media asking me for my advice on what to do in Iceland.
Due to the high demand for this information, I created some resources. All of the ones I will talk about are available through a link in the description of this episode on my website allthingsiceland.com. Also, they can be found on the homepage of my website. There is a tab at the top called “Trip Planning Help”. Click on that and you will find links to everything I am about to share.
Video Consultation with Me for Your Trip 
One of the resources is that if you’re interested in getting personalized trip planning advice from me, you can book me for a consultation via this link. After you fill out a survey and pick a time that is available for both of us, we do a one-hour video chat via Google Meet.
During this time, we chat about your interest, parts of the country you want to visit, how to get the most out of your time, helpful information to know about Iceland before coming, and any questions that you have. I always feel delighted when I hear at the end of the call that people feel even more excited about their upcoming trip because of the consultation.
  
Make Your Own Itinerary with My Iceland Map
Another great resource is to grab full access to my Iceland map. This map was created for those who want to pick out places and hidden gems around Iceland to make up their own itinerary or add to one that they already created.
With full access, you get over 250 places that I recommend in Iceland, along with four itineraries to use for planning your trip. Those itineraries include a 10-day Ring Road trip, a 3-day South Iceland trip, The Famous Golden Circle and a Reykjanes Peninsula Day Trip.
A one-time purchase gives you lifetime access, which includes any updates I make to the map.
Here is a link to my Iceland map: rexby.com/jewells/Iceland.
Random Fact of the Episode
October is when the season for the northern lights really kicks off.
Icelandic Word of Episode
Óktober – October
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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega

October in Iceland – Weather, Fun Activities, What to Pack & More

This particular episode is about Hallgerður Hallgrímsdóttir, who did an interesting interview with VICE back in 2016 about her intimate encounters.  An important warning though is that she goes into some graphic details about her and an elf being intimate, as well as an anonymous account that she shares from someone else. It’s definitely out there.
What Might Happen if You Meet An Icelandic Elf
I am summarizing what she said in the most PG way that I can. Hallgerður claims that she was out walking in the Icelandic wilderness by herself when an elf approached her. For those not familiar with Icelandic elves, they are hidden people that look like humans but are said to be taller and way better looking. After meeting the elf, they go off and have an intimate time and yes, I am using intimate as a euphemism. She recalls it as being amazing and way better than anything she has ever done with a regular person.
To make this even more interesting, she illustrated a book using stick figure drawings to show some of the intimate positions that are uniquely elvish. Hearing people’s encounters with elves regardless of them being intimate or not, are fascinating to me.  I say that because there are people in Iceland who are self-proclaimed elf mediums and there is even a elf school here. Icelandic elves
Random Fact of the Episode
Due to a poll taken in 1998, the thought for decades was that that the majority of Icelanders believed in elves. However, another poll was done in 2022 by Prósent that says only 31% of Icelanders believe in elves, 11% were not sure, 1% didn´t want to answer and 57% said no. To be fair, this was based on around 1,000 responders who are 18 years or older.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Huldufólk – hidden people
Check out other episodes of Folklore Friday here.
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An Icelander’s Intimate Encounter with an Elf – Folklore Friday

In the early hours of February 8th, a volcanic eruption north of Grindavik, not far from the famed Blue Lagoon, marked the third eruption since December, igniting concerns among locals and authorities.
With the eruption’s intensity waning by the evening, experts from the Icelandic Met Office suggest this latest upheaval might be fizzling out. Yet, the pattern of increasing volcanic activity has them predicting possible monthly eruptions in the near future.

The Reykjanes Peninsula compared to the rest of Iceland
Loss of Hot Water & The Precaution Needed with Gas Heaters
In the wake of the eruption, the Civil Defense has issued urgent safety guidelines for residents using gas heating due to the lose of hot water because lava has flowed over a major hot water pipe coming from the Svartstengi power plant.
They are emphasizing the importance of proper ventilation, the installation of gas detectors, and adherence to manufacturer instructions to prevent hazardous incidents. These precautions come amid a spike in gas cylinder sales in Reykjanesbær, driven by disruptions to the local hot water supply.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLd7CzXBScA&list=RDCMUCacXXvaNHJQhMYU7f77OrBA&start_radio=1
The lava flow’s impact extended to critical infrastructure, with the Svartsengi power line’s electricity being swiftly restored thanks to effective defense measures, despite the damage to protective measures on pylons. However, the hot water crisis prompted the National Police Commissioner to declare an emergency, urging the community to conserve electricity and water as repairs to the damaged hot water pipeline are underway.
Despite the volcanic disturbance, international flights remain unaffected, though the Blue Lagoon has temporarily closed its doors to visitors. As the community grapples with the immediate aftermath and the potential for future eruptions, the emphasis on preparedness and safety has never been more paramount.
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The towns on the Reyjanes Peninsula.
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An Early Morning Volcanic Eruption Cuts Off Hot Water

One of Iceland’s most iconic and breathtaking landmarks is Hallgrímskirkja church. This isn’t just any church; it’s a symbol of Icelandic identity, a fusion of history, and a beautiful architectural design that speaks volumes about the island’s unique character. Later on, in my random fact of the episode, I share who this church is named after.
Ask Jewells Anything
Before I jump in, I am excited to share that I have created a form where my listeners and followers can submit questions for the “Ask Jewells About Iceland” podcast episodes I plan to do. Here is he link to submit your question.
  
The Towering Presence in Reykjavík’s Skyline
Perched on the scenic hilltop of Skólavörðuholt, Hallgrímskirkja stands tall at 74.5 meters (244 ft), making it not only the largest church in Iceland but also one of the tallest structures in the country. Its visibility throughout Reykjavík turns it into a landmark for those meandering through the city’s streets.
A Church was Commissioned by the Icelandic Government
Althingi, or the Icelandic Parliament, put forth a design competition for a church in 1929. The only specifications were that it had to seat 1,200 people and have a high tower that can possibly be used for radio signal transmissions.
A Design Inspired by Nature
The church’s design, a masterpiece by State Architect Guðjón Samúelsson, was commissioned in 1937. Samúelsson drew inspiration from the stunning Icelandic landscape. The church’s exterior mimics the fascinating basalt columns found in places around the country, like on Reynisfjara black sand beach or Svartifoss waterfall. Overall, the design is meant to depict the mountains and glaciers of Iceland soaring up through imitations of hexagonal basalt columns.
The building of the church started in 1945 and the first stage of it was complete in 1948. However, only the ground floor of the back of the church was consecrated for service. The whole church was consecrated in on October 26th, 1986. This happen to be the day before death of Hallgrímur Petursson’s death and the same year Reykjavik was celebrating 200 years of being a town and city.
  
Hallgrímskirka  is an Example of Expressionist Architecture
If you’re a fan of expressionist architecture, you’ll spot similarities in the interior of Hallgrímskirkja church with Grundtvig’s Church in Copenhagen and the Kirche am Hohenzollernplatz in Berlin.
Along with designing this iconic church, Samúelsson is also responsible for designing the National Theater, the Roman Catholic Church in Reykjavik, and the main building of the University of Iceland.
Inside Hallgrímskirkja: A Harmony of Art and Spirituality
Step inside, and you’re greeted by a serene yet powerful atmosphere. The interior, spanning 1,676 square meters, is a blend of traditional and modern design elements, evoking a sense of grandeur and reverence.
  
The Sound of Music: An Organist’s Dream
Music enthusiasts, rejoice! Hallgrímskirkja houses not one, but two large pipe organs. The crown jewel is the Johannes Klais of Bonn organ, featuring electronic action, 102 ranks, 72 stops, and a staggering 5275 pipes.
Standing 15 meters tall and weighing 25 metric tons, it’s an instrument that not only plays music but also tells a story of artistic brilliance. The organ was financed through private gifts. I think there are some pipes that people can “purchase” and once it is bought, you receive a certificate that you are a patron of a particular pipe.
An Observation Tower with a View
For the best views of Reykjavík and the surrounding mountains, take the lift to the church’s observation tower. It’s not just a church; it’s a viewpoint that offers breathtaking panoramas of the city and beyond. Entrance into the church is free of charge but if you want to access the tower, you have to pay 1400 ISK for adults and 200 ISK for children. There are discounts for seniors and groups of 10 or more.
  
A Tribute to a Legendary Explorer
Outside of the church, the statue of Leif Erikson, a gift from the United States, stands proudly. This sculpture not only honors the legendary Icelandic explorer but also commemorates a millennium of parliamentary history in Iceland.
Why Visit Hallgrímskirkja?
Hallgrímskirkja is more than just a church; it’s a testament to Iceland’s rich history, unique geography, and artistic innovation. Whether you’re captivated by its architectural splendor, moved by its spiritual significance, or simply in awe of its commanding presence, this Reykjavík landmark is a must-visit.
It’s a piece of living history that connects the past with the present, a place where art, culture, and nature converge in a truly Icelandic fashion.
If you would like to experience a mass at the church, you are more than welcome to do that as well but you are asked to please be respectful because this is a religious ceremony. There are often concerts at the church and during certain hours or occasions the church or the tower are not available for use. I have those times in the description of this episode on my website allthingsiceland.com.
The acoustics in the church are amazing, and you can find tickets to concerts on tix.is.
  
Random Fact of the Episode
The church is named after Hallgrímur Pétursson, one of the best-known poets in Iceland. He lived from 1614-1674. According to the website about the church, this is the following is known information about Hallhgrímur.
“When still a child, his father moved to the Bishop’s residence at Hólar in Hjaltadalur in the north of Iceland and Hallgrímur there received education. He was apprenticed as a blacksmith in Copenhagen, but abandoned the trade and studied in the Vor Frue Skole from 1632 to 1637. While there he met Guðríður Símonardóttir, who had been in slavery in Algeria.
Hallgrímur and Guðríður returned to Iceland where Hallgrímur became a priest at Hvalsnes in the Reykjanes peninsula and later at Saurbær in Hvalfjörður. He died in 1674. Hallgrimur is most famous for his Hymns of the Passion, a series of 50 meditations on the martyrdom of Christ, written in 1656-59.
The poems are generally considered to be classic in Icelandic literature. Verses of the poems have accompanied Icelanders for more than three centuries. They are read on national radio during Lent and in many churches on Good Friday. Hymns of the Passion have been translated into nine languages, including Danish, Norwegian, German, Dutch, Hungarian. A new translation into English by Gracia Grindal was published in 2019.”  
See Hallgrímskirkja Church and More
 
 
Hallgrímskirkja church is only one of the many amazing places in Reykjavík you can check out during your visit. If you want more places, like hidden gems and other fun activities to take part in, you can grab my Iceland map.
Whether you just grab the map or full access, which comes with pre-made itineraries, you will have loads of recommendations for things to do in Reykjavík and around the country. You can find the link to my map in the “Trip Planning Help” tab at the top of the page.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Skólavörðustígur, the street leading up to the church, is “school cairn street”. A cairn is a mound of stones built as a memorial or landmark. In this case it was a landmark for locals.
In 1793, one was placed where the church currently stands to serve as a marker for locals who want to see he sights and get a nice panoramic view of the surrounding area. Cairns were commonly used in Iceland out in the countryside to help people traveling to stay on course.
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